The Beats and The Vanities, Larry Fink Exhibition at Armani/SIlos
A collection of exquisite black and white photographs from Larry Fink’s The Beats and The Vanities books will comprise the latest exhibition at Armani/Silos. The exhibition presents a unique opportunity for the legendary photographer’s work and idiosyncratic vision to be experienced as one as they have never before been shown together before.
Giorgio Armani himself is a great fan of Larry Fink’s work, finding his ability to capture form and line in such a fluid way something he can relate to as well as a designer. “Fink is a jazz fan, and you can almost view these images in terms of musical composition – people in flow, surprising us, possessing an unconscious sensuality”, he adds.
Born in Brooklyn and raised in a progressive and politically active family, Fink cut his teeth as a photographer as part of the late beat generation, when he hooked up with a group of beats at the age of 17. Political activism, protests and marches formed the photographers worldview who documented the times through his medium-format camera.
His pictures serve as a time capsule and a candid look into his world, perfectly capturing the sense of romance and rebellion that characterised the underground jazz-fuelled youth movement of the time. A regular editorial contributor for prestigious titles such as The New Yorker and Vanity Fair, it was the latter that recognised his ability to bring them something different if let loose to create.
His visual record of the famous and their surrounding courtiers is not concerned with who’s who – rather it focuses on what’s happening. As Fink himself describes it, he tries to embrace the souls of all people, regardless of their conditions.
The Beats and The Vanities, Photographs by Larry Fink will be on show at the Armani/Silos until the end of July 2017.
Dior Fall/Winter 2017
Taking the reins of a legendary fashion house is always a challenge. Maria Grazia Chiuri is not new to the job. She, together with Pier Paolo Piccioli, took the helm of Valentino one year after Sir Garavani’s retirement, keeping high the stakes of the house, bringing it back to international acclaim.
At her second collection for Dior, Chiuri’s wish to bring a revolution and play with the house’s codes is even more clear. She is a woman, and as every Italian woman, she is naturally engaged in elevating women’s power and society’s perception of the female stance. If you were expecting a Valentino’s modus operandi you were mistaken.
Maria Grazia Chiuri is not easily affected by predictions. She has a vision and she is certainly not playing the safe card. Dior Fall Winter 2017 was entirely declined in shades of blue, a blue that Chiuri found in the archives of Dior – particularly on a taffeta silk dress designed in ’54 - and quickly got fascinated by. It’s the blue of uniforms, of elegant evening dresses and certainly of denim. It’s a young contemporary collection. Chiuri wishes to picture the contemporary woman emerging the tense political climate of our time.
Last season’s motto “We should be all feminists” left the place to a more consistent and strong statement where the clothes speak by themselves. The basques created by Stephen Jones give a further accent in this sense. It almost as we see a troupe of suffragettes, marching one after the other advocating women’s freedom to dress however they find fit.
Mugler Fall/Winter 2017
Natasha Poli storming the catwalk in a blue patent leather blazer with arched shoulders and slim pantsuit. The atmosphere was fierce and as the models powerfully marched in one after the other, the message that creative director David Koma surely had in mind was clear: effortless and daring, Mugler’s woman will not be unnoticed.
Don’t be mistaken: this is a powerful and confident woman who will embrace her body, in all the declinations, with no fear.
David Koma created a collection constellated mainly with evening looks. Vertiginous minidresses with cut-out star details at the bottom hemline or embroidered on the bodice, hourglass silhouettes with pleated lamé in acid green and electric blue, a long white gown with pleated contrast silver lamé. But also power suits with sharp sculptural shoulders in contrasting colours, pants-blazer combo in white, silver, black.
The last look, a dress deconstructing the idea of a smoking suit into an evening gown, said it all: Koma is in search of reinventing the house codes, keeping the identity of this iconic brand strong.
UNDERCOVER Fall/Winter 2017
The Faun, the nomads, the young rebels. But also the aristocracy and new gracious creatures. Jun Takahashi’s imaginary world for Undercover Fall Winter 2017 had the feeling of a long distant fairy tale fostering castles and princesses with gargantuan costumes and an ethereal atmosphere.
Like voices from afar, whispering a secret message, the sound of wind chimes as hung to push the spirits away, turning at the very end in a mesmerizing voice, singing on an incredible piano melody. Radiohead Thom Yorke’s fantasy, created ad oc for the show, was the perfect stage for Takahashi’s Utopia.
It was not just a spectacle. It was a beautiful collection where the clothes stood strong, masterly styled, layered and carefully balanced. Knitwear in long dresses, tunics and sculptural coats as out from Coppola’s brash “Marie Antoinette”. Fur trimmed puffa jackets and long velvet skirts. Sweatshirts with metal studs, embroidered with unicorns and insects. A beautiful crimson red, moss green, shades of cerulean blue and a bold yellow, painted this beautiful story. A story of humanity itself. The platform shoes and boots, reminiscent of the faun’s goat legs pushed this narrative image even further, in an enchanting atmosphere.
The Undercover show was a breeze of fresh air during a fashion week heavily politicised.
Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2017: Forging Frontiers
Nicolas Ghesquière had one goal in mind for his Fall/Winter 2017 collection as head of Louis Vuitton – pushing boundaries like the legendary French fashion house has been doing since its 1854 beginnings. Frontiers are meant to be broken down and Louis Vuitton has been at the forefront of innovation, know-how, design and travel, all elements that set it apart from its counterparts are continue to characterise its offerings every season.
Ghesquière wanted to re-create that very sense of boundarylessness that doubled as more of a directional seasonal messages rather that an array of options for city living. This was an evocation of the nomadic, where the city blends with distant landscapes, the masculine blurs with the feminine and Louis Vuitton heritage meets a thirst for the future. A new play of stylistic lines emerges: great American sportswear classics and Slavic accents, inspirations from fashions of the past translated into the world of today, urban classics fused with the magnetic pull of folklore.
This may come as no surprise but beautifully-treated leather was central to this collection: super polished or crackled giving the impression of age and wear. What was perhaps more noteworthy is the attention that designer paid to fur this season. Short-sleeved, patch-worked jackets were paired with relaxed, cropped flares but could up the ante when thrown over an evening dress.
Ghesquière's evening wear offering moved away from last season's dramatic naked dresses. He opted instead for knee-length slip dresses with elaborate pleats, lace insets, sheer details and fabrics with clashing prints in an attempt to infuse the collection with an easy-going, laid-back attitude.
Raf Simons presents his Fall 2017 collection for Calvin Klein
Raf Simons' debut collection for Calvin Klein was a hotly-anticipated event in this year's New York Fashion Week calendar.
Remaining true to his allegiances, Simons enlisted the help of friend and artist Sterling Ruby, giving him free reign to imagine artwork appropriate for the iconic brand's headquarters. Ruby imagine America.
Raf Simons and Calvin Klein Creative Director, Pieter Mulier created a collection that featured both women's and menswear for Fall 2017 and is in itself an homage to America. “It reflects the environment” said Mr. Simons. “All of these different people with different styles and dress codes. It's the future, the past, Art Deco, the city, the American West... all of these things and none of these things. Not one era, not one thing, not one look. It is the coming together of different characters and different individuals, just like America itself. It is the unique beauty of emotion in America.”
This was a collection in which each piece communicated with the rest; one material impacted another and one style impacted the upcoming ones even in the same silhouettes making for a collection that echoes the essence of diversity.
Marching band uniforms, plastic coated protection, power broker tailoring and antique handcrafted quilting, workwear and westernwear made for this unique parade. The collection finds equal merit in folk and function, food court and courtroom in a romantic and filmic outsider's view of the uniqueness of America.
Philipp Plein Autumn/Winter 2017
Brooklyn-born rap and hip hop artist Nas, opened Phillip Plein's Autumn/Winter 2017 fashion show in the iconic New York Public Library. The show was a personal love letter to the city's neighbourhoods and the diversity that characterises them, highlighting their ability to shape and define an identity. From the Bronx and Chelsea to Queens and the Upper East side, every area has something to offer.
“Neighbourhood Kings” was emblazoned across the collections' garments – it does not matter where you come from, for Philipp Plein, you are the king of your own hood. A diverse cast of personalities and models – including rappers Desiigner and Fetty Wap - strutted down the runway as The Kills performed an electrifying live set.
Music, style, gender and race all had their say in this collection that did not distinguish between men's and womenswear: the girls wear boy's T-shirts and oversized hoodies while the boy's were styles in women's jackets and dresses. Streetwear and couture are also fused together: an embroidered evening dress was paired with a bomber jacket, there was an intarsia mink coat worn with a hoodie and thigh-high sneakers marched alongside heeled boots. Catering to self-expression and their own personal sense of style, the collection's strength lies in its bid to highlight individuality.
But Plein's ode to the Big Apple did end there: the prints also tell a tale of New York. Symbols from dollar pill comprise the print of a hooded fur coat, the Statue of Liberty and FBI (“Fashion Beyond Imagination” patches decorate sweaters and bombers. Floor-length puffer coats and snakeskin jackets are transformed into urban armour thanks to metallic details and the addition of studs.
Lala Berlin's Persian Punk revolution
Lala Berlin's Fall/Winter 2017 collection epitomises the metropolis of Berlin in an anarchic big-city chic way with a fresh attitude. Thus is born an ode to the unconventional yet elegant women that reinvented themselves as Persian punks.
Beautiful arts and crafts in architecture and textiles are the inspirations for a wardrobe that mixes punk and ethnic elements in such an authentic and modern way. A boheme and avant-garde style is conveyed in a variety of silhouettes from H-lines to flowy A-silhouettes and oversized asymmetric overlays. Feminine cuts, kimonos and tunic dresses give birth to the Lala’s punk-chic evening wear.
The color palette fades within dark chic colors like khaki, dark red, ink blue and black mixed with warm saffron yellow and cream interjected with vibrant and lush elements from middle eastern traditional art. Vibrant print ideas are reimagined in Berlin 80’s punk fused with Persian décor and floral elements are transformed into something new and fresh that reminds us of a mosaic print.
Frayed edges and star lace trimmings give a certain sense of poetic punk bohemia to dresses, skirts and shirting. Knits, iconic elements of Lala’s wardrobe that incorporate jacquards with frayed details are a sumptuous tapestry of textures.
The Persian punk girl gets out her Dr. Martens and leather accessories to inspire an anarchic revolution, to think about the future while redefining her style and inspiring change for the better.
JUUN.J Fall/Winter 2017
As the models stormed inside Universite Rene Decartes’s suggestive neoclassic space, and the fluid body of Juun J’s work floated around, we caught the power of history. The history of this brand evolved within the last ten years into an acclaimed fashion forward entity. for this celebratory collection Juun J - in name of a decade spent imagining the future of his eponymous label - choose the emblematic subtitle: “Archive”.
Oversized long sweaters, heavy, massive, almost suffocating in all their fierce presence. The architectural outwear, the brand's signature trench coat and the MA1 bomber jacket. All the iconic pieces of Juun J’s past collections, in a splendid parade, as an ode to this Korean designer who has influenced the wardrobe of boys and girls in recent years. The girl who has been wearing Juun J forever and who got a special place in the future course: the new Juun J will have from now on feature a Womenswear collection.
And so the oversized cargo pants transformed into high waist long skirts with maxi pockets on the hips and slits on both sides which will be a hot piece for next season. Khaki, military green, black, white and pin-striped blue: the palette focused on the brand’s favoured colours. The large parachute hooded outwear with a myriad of swinging straps were certainly the protagonists, underlined in the closing act when all the possible declinations marched in, as if to suggest the impetuous movement and space of Juun J in the upcoming decade.
NEW TENDENCY x Meiré und Meiré
New Tendency showed its 2017 product innovations at the Meiré und Meiré Factory.
The Bauhaus tradition has influenced the development process of everyday contemporary objects for New Tendency. Their furnishings serve to compose an ideal setting for modern working environments. With the emergence of co-working spaces, New Tendency have picked up on the need of flexible and functional configurations and strive to inspire those who are surrounded by their creations in their daily lives and their professional environments.
Showcasing their work in one of the leading creative agencies in Germany was therefore a natural progression.
Among other objects, New Tendency presented its December Edition at the Meiré und Meiré factory, a line that was the result of a fruitful collaboration with the agency, furthering their devotion to creative partnerships. The Artist's Edition of the lamp served as the inspirational springboard for the creation of New Tendency's premium line, Black Label that will soon be expanded to include more exclusive pieces with clear geometrical components.
Raw structures, industrial materials and natural elements formed the perfect hybrid framework for New Tendency's minimalist yet progressive designs. The presentation at the Meiré und Meiré factory didn't treat New Tendency's furnishings as conventional exhibits; they were instead integrated in the agency's daily goings-on serving as both a working space and a meeting point.
For New Tendency's exhibition at the Meiré und Meiré Factory, Mike Meire grouped the December edition pieces with side tables from the META line to create an island in the middle of the space. The installation was staged on raw concrete and stone slabs between dry plants, paint buckets and cardboard boxes. Fluorescent lights floated above it, different colours and textures of plastic foil sheets hanging over the top. The industrial ensemble was characterised by deliberately rudimentary fragmented elements that served as a beautiful contrast to the high-end claim of the products on display.
In the age of digitalisation, where products are becoming increasingly perfect Mike Meiré felt the need to infuse the products with textural and tactile elements proposing 'Brutalism x Redefining Nature' and paying tribute to Le Corbusier's New Brutalism.
Esther Perbandt's androgynous Fall/Winter 2017 collection
Perbandt's anti-cyclical collection for the colder seasons featured visionary garments that play with the slightest of contrast between black and white and gender. The designer is famous for touching upon human limitations delicately, forgetting about diversity and giving birth to a brand that strikes the perfect balance between androgyny and independence.
Esther Perbandt has been internationally recognised for her trademark stage productions. The Fall/Winter 2017 show only reinforced her status with a veritably unconventional yet sophisticated event that attracted celebrities from around the globe as well as personalities from the world of design, art and fashion; collectively they paid homage to a powerful production.
Take a walk on the wild side with Christian Dada’s “Blue” collection
In the name of “Blue”, Christian Dada's latest collection is a hymn to Japanese color traditions. Blue evokes feelings of rebellion, frustration, incomprehension that surround troubled youth.
Reaching out to our inner adolescent, the collection revolves around the concept of deconstruction that is obtained with sophisticated methods of shaping and layering. Mixing Eastern and Dadaist aesthetics, designer Masanori Morikawa plays with classic tailored jackets worn like kimonos wrapped around T-shirts and striped pajamas. Trench coats morph into tunics and army bombers and denim jackets are ripped into and skinned to expose their bone structure.
Tartan motifs and schoolboy sheepskin jackets collectively pay homage to College fashion. With slogans like “I Don't Like Drugs but Drugs Like Me” or “Too Fast to Live Too Young to Die” making appearances throughout the line, Morikawa's collection echoes messages from modern society.
Playing with double entendres is a trademark of the Dadaist mood board that definitely urges one to take a walk on the wild side.
Out Of The Blue comes Peuterey
Peuterey wraps its timeless designs into the most diverse shades of blue for its Spring/Summer 2017 collection.
In Out of the Blue, a name that perfectly encapsulates the collection's essence, Italian elegance meets functionality, conceiving a wide range of models that suit our everyday life perfectly, just like their key-color does.
Whether it's trench coats, leatherjackets or blazers – creative director Federico Curradi, has definitely set a new trend for this Spring/ Summer season.
A sporty-chic Z ZEGNA at PITTI 2017
The latest Z Zegna collection takes you on a vintage ski trip for Pitti Uomo 2017, a sporty-chic mood that nobody expected but many welcomed.
It is no secret that the Florence fashion fair was created to bring innovation and prêt à porter all around the world and Zegna knows that well. For the first time the Italian brand presented a line that combines tailoring and performance evolution. For the slopes and the streets, the proposal is a Techmerino total look that takes a quintessential role in this season where layering is key. A foundation of matte black, optical woolen, asphalt grey mélange, light camel and pine leaf green in combination with sportswear graphics take us back to the late 70’s ski seasons in Sankt Moritz where sport never strays too far from fashion and elegance.
The brand decided to converge comfort and excellence in a savvy colour palette that pays tribute to the textile innovation Z Zegna is known for.
Colette x UNDEFETEAD: the hypes’ sneaker exchange
The hype around sneakers has never been so present. Parisian it store Colette, one of Europe's biggest go-to destinations for street-wear designer apparel has partnered with LA-based label UNDEFEATED for the much-anticipate “Sneaker Exchange”. Included in the exchange are no less than 84 brands like Bodega, END, Kith and Slam Jam just to name a few.
Two limited edition and revamped Adidas sneakers to be launched during Paris Fashion Week will be part of this January's exchange. The redesigned editions of iconic models, the Campus 80 and EQT Support. The Campus 80 is bright, in white leather with a royal blue heel while the EQT Support's darker influences are manifested through its deep navy blue shades.
Both models are playing with the concept of opposites, pairing and simultaneously contrasting influences, ideas and cultural currencies, personifying perfectly the concept of the exchange.
The Givenchy Tribe
Givenchy's latest campaign has just been released and the abundance of the brand's signature codes do not go unnoticed. Shot by photographers Mert and Marcus and designed as a double page spread, the campaign plays on the concept of duality and features powerful men and women whose intrepid natures manage to withstand space and time.
A well-balanced blend of feminine and masculine elements that remain classic and chic are the focal points of the campaign. Two girls become twins by dressing identically and a boy plays fashion chameleon by rocking a formal and a streetwear look in a Mars-like landscape. Pair the adventurous nature of the above with the tightly cropped portraits of Givenchy's personality gang and you are given the impression that, although they appear different they do in fact to belong to the same style-savvy tribe.
Of course, Givenchy's now iconic Horizon and Cross Body bags could not be left out of the equation. Serving as a mark of recognition for the brand, their presence encapsulates the luxury label's long-standing fame while looking towards a future of duality.
Acne Studios Resort 2017 collection’s film is now out, and it’s all about Hype Fever
Highlighted shades, slow motion pictures and pop vibes merge together to give birth to the new Resort 2017 collections film by Acne Studios.
Inspired by musical counter culture, free and fluid silhouettes mixed and matched with generous draping, patterned knitwear and elongated evening wear. Sneak peeks from the runway are given together with backstage scenes to present a collection that is nothing but common.
Resort 2017 is all about shapes and prints that are achieved through a variety of dyeing techniques from tie-dyeing to oil-dyeing, in order to create a look that is both soft and romantic without ever forgetting a taste of sane hippie-rock attitude.
Coach and The Webster: between ready-to-wear and Baseman’s designs
Many were the brands that presented their upcoming collections at Miami Art Basel, but it was Coach’s collaboration with The Webster and artist Gary Baseman that transformed it in a special universe of fashion pieces and design sketches.
To celebrate the arrival of the Women’s pre-spring collection and an exclusive preview of the Men’s Spring 2017, the three joined forces to create customized objects based on Baseman characters and his signature “Wildbeast” print.
American iconography is reflected all over the collections through juxtaposing unexpected images and familiar, nostalgic themes. Moreover, at the heart of the project a tougher take on masculinity takes over, celebrating those who are brave and bold enough to subvert conventions and status quo.
During the event, Baseman, gave attendees a sneak peek of the collection’s mood, hand-painting three one-of-a-kind motorcycle jackets.
Exclusive design for an exclusive experience.
Blind for Love book: the latest Gucci’s treat
Nick Waplington and his unfiltered camera have been enlisted by Gucci to bring the brand's latest project, Blind For Love by Gucci, to life.
Alessandro Michele’s Cruise 2017 collection, presented last June in London's Westminster Abbey, will be the star of the coffee table book for all the designer’s affectionate disciples. Candid and behind-the-scene pictures, from one of the Michele's most memorable fashion shows, will capture the fresh touch of the young designer, who is expanding the Italian brand’s horizons.
The British photographer Nick Waplington, who in past years signed the “Working Process” book with Alexander McQueen, is ready to surprise again with this fashion reportage dedicated to the English punk-rock culture.
Blind for Love tells the story of Waplington’s visionary taste and Gucci’s know-how, all in one book. It's the story of what’s behind the glittering world of fashion, a story that will turn everyone…Blind for Gucci.
Prince Claus Fund Gallery welcomes El Anatsui: Meyina
As of the 24th of November and as part of its continuing mission to collaborate with artists from backgrounds where opportunities for cultural expression and creative production are limited, Amsterdam's Prince Claus Fund Gallery will be hosting El Anatsui's Meyina exhibition.
Curated by independent curator and founder of the Centre for Contemporary Art – Lagos, Bisi Silva, Meyina paints a portrait of the artist that brings together disparate fragments that form a whole. The exhibition includes an array of materials from the artist's workspaces and past collaborations.. Sketchbooks, drawings and letters offer a unique glimpse into Anatsui's creative process.
The Ghanaian artist transforms found materials into large shimmering forms by assembling elements into vibrant patterns with a unique visual impact. Large-scale assemblages of thousands of pieces of aluminium sourced from alcohol recycling stations, are sewn together with copper resulting in an interesting texture that resembles woven cloth. El Anatsui's visually impactful cloth-like wall sculpture serve as contemporary commentary on African history, colonialism, post-colonial reality and the daily reality the continent faces.
In the exhibition the concept of a limitless horizon, an immersive space where possibilities become real resonates. The artist's dedication to exploring political and environmental issues through his work's raw materials has established him as a staunch defender of artistic freedom and an inspiration in the development of the visual arts in Africa.
Paraphrasing Ghanaian author Kofi Anyidoho, Anatsui states that, 'when I am in the studio it is as if the sky bends down to have a word with the earth.'
The exhibition, launched as part of Amsterdam Art Weekend, will run until April 28th 2017 at the Prince Claus Fund Gallery.
The Pareo - Miu Miu's revolutionary skirt
Miu Miu's Resort 2016 collection features the “Pareo skirt”. This journey-inspired design makes heads turn and conversations start making it one of the collection's stand-out pieces.
With patterns that evoke 90s rave culture, this skirt strives to be infinitely adaptable, audacious and representative of the Miu Miu girl's independent spirit. She travels the world, she rejects formality and she makes her own rules.
This light-hearted take on such a long-established garment is what gives it its democratic feel. Already well-loved in continents as diverse as Asia and Africa, it is seen worn by both men and women, further accentuating the beauty of gender fluidity.
“Pareo” is packaged in a special soft fabric envelope stamped with the iconic Miu Miu logo, as to leave the indelible mark of brand’s revolutionary spirit in our wardrobe.
Uniqueness is this skirt's keyword: no two people need ever wear it in quite the same way.
Ermenegildo Zegna Mayfair store – A modern tribute to tradition
London's Bond Street has been the home of the Ermenegildo Zegna's flagship store since 1987 and yesterday, after a lengthy renovation project, it re-opened its doors to the public. An ode to the brand's use of quality materials, integrity and modern style, the new store is the product of a fruitful collaboration between Zegna and architect Peter Marino.
Among classic modernist art pieces that convey the timelessness of Italian style and design, a specially-commissioned wall tapestry by William Kentridge, provides a snapshot of the company's centennial progress. The South-African artist used portraits of the founder and elements inspired by key moments in the brand's journey, successfully bridging the gap between tradition and modernity.
Additionally, a nine piece bespoke men's shoes collection will be exclusively available at the London flagship store. Designed by artistic director Alessandro Sartori, models range from casual to biker boots – all of them inspired by nine personalities close to Sartori's heart. The Bespoke Shoe Collection represents the best in modern luxury while allowing the modern man to adopt an elevated approach to his individual style.
Toni & Niklas Garrn announce EQL
#samesamenotdifferent, the hashtag for sibling design duo Toni and Niklas Garnn’s EQL unisex collection in collaboration with Closed. Twelve exclusive pieces ranging from size x-small to x-large, offering sporty, chic and classic designs. Back in 2008 Toni Garnn started out modelling for Closed and sat behind the design table six years later. She has now joined forces with her brother Niklas to create the genderless collection, proposing contemporary, minimalistic and comfortable fashion. Following the current zeitgeist, with gender slowly fading, as well as always having swapped clothes, equality is an important topic for the Garnn siblings. “EQL stands for a particular attitude as well as for the lifestyle that we both live: sophisticated, uncomplicated, open and free,” Niklas says.
Ingrid Baars – Bloom! exhibition
Dutch visual artist Ingrid Baars has opened her third solo exhibition “Bloom!” at the Rademakers Gallery in Amsterdam. The exhibition represents her on going project “L’Afrique!”, influenced by the diversity in African culture. Through Baars’ primary photoshoot and photo manipulation techniques, objects of African culture heritage, African woman and dress are visualized in a surreal yet beautifully executed manner across the gallery.
“Bloom!” will be on display until November 20th 2016.
Louis Vuitton Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear
Women. Or like Nicolas Ghesquière likes to call them: Heroines. Powerful characters who conquer the scenes. Indisputable free and unique. Like Louis Vuitton’s ambassadresses – from Léa Seydoux to Alicia Vikander and Catherine Deneuve, Doona Bae, Michelle Williams – all present, attending the Spring Summer 2017 show. Nicolas Ghesquière delivered a collection of poignant femininity. An interest that he already expressed in the last Louis Vuitton book, the forth of the serie: “I like to see women walking, moving. To see how fabric falling in a certain way can enhance the body; the femininity that interests me is about energy and vitality”. Ghesquière woman is strong yet sinuous. Fluent dresses with midriff cutouts in jersey channelling that sensuous look, power boots as out of a manga heroine, or sheer gowns with padded shoulders hinting military epaulettes – fitting the Place Vendome scenic heritage, where the show took place. Generaless of conquest, witty, travelling – as rooted in Louis Vuitton’s spirit. “6 GIRLS 6 MINUTES”, the short film directed by M/M PARIS for Louis Vuitton just released to present the new collection gives a glimpse of that modern “Parisienne” attitude. A portrait of six different girls around the world in love with the French capital.
Emporio Armani Spring 2016 Ready-to-Wear
In the occasion of the store re-opening in Boulevard St-Germain, Giorgio Armani surprised everyone staging Emporio Armani Spring Summer 2017 show in Paris. Entering the venue in Bercy arena we all felt that disarming disorientation. Where are we? Is this really the French capital or we have been teleported in Armani HQ in Milan? Giorgio Armani built a set evoking his very own Tadao Ando’s theatre and its striking minimalism. The squared mirrored catwalk, the descending seating. The pitch black and luminous white. As almost as whispering that Armani empire, style and philosophy can raise anywhere. The collection was eclectic. If the first squad - including some male models - arrived in composed functional looks in the tones of desaturated blue and grey, an extreme variation of styles and colours took the lead. Soft silk satin pyjamas, unstructured blazers with matching trousers forming that perfect contemporary power suit. Liquid fabrics ruling tailored pieces. As the troop continued marching in we saw coral red hues, faded green, white, cobalt blue, purple. And the unexpected South Asian elephant prints, becoming the running theme through part of the collection: at the hems of pants or adorning the neckline of the summery long dresses. There was a multitude of accessories, from flats-shoes to heels of all shapes, small bags worn at the waist or crossbody, statement earrings. All meticulously styled. Emporio Armani for Spring 2017 displayed that urban language, typical of the label, but also the essence of its young broad audience in all the facets.
Acne Studios Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear
Layered scarves to form long dresses so light you could fly and the bond to that cool atmosphere that Acne built its history on.
Acne Studios Spring 2017 is experimenting once again away from the brand roots reflecting the aim of the house to grow on the luxury level. We saw oversized beautiful knitwear inspired by African blankets with unfinished look. Pulled threads and raw hems, with earth colours conferring that cool look to more tailored and minimalist pieces.
The Denim is one of the key items. Stone washed and then deep dyed offering a soft touch and beautiful colours as of pale gems. Denim dungarees and coats inspired by kimonos with paisley or flower embroidery ton sur ton combined with scarves hanging from the waist. But also the evergreen Acne look of beautiful and contemporary suits.
Fresh, relaxed and youthful. A summer spent in Amalfi coast, a sunset on a boat wearing just a long dress and a sun-kissed skin. Acne’s creative director Jonny Johansson impressed us with his ability to bring new air keeping Acne’s deep identity.
WUNDERKIND Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear
The Wunderkind woman has an elusive way about her, throwing her beat out of rhythm in such a way that she will never be caught. Credit to the off-center eye of Wolfgang Joop, who throws together the jagged references we see before us for SS17: prairie purged of all its hollow nostalgia, headed firmly for the future with foiled leather Western boots, op art silks and gauzy tulles so slight they trace the surface of the skin. Granted, the citations at play are erratic, but their ordering is anything but… Racer cuts quell their sporty sensibility by sheathing the body in ice white mesh, asserting its elegance with ruffled peplums and knife pleats, or romantic Victoriana smocks. Cold shoulder collared shirts gleamed in sparkly lurex, their billowing sleeves offset by the cinched waist of a peach swing skirt. Belts bolstered bodies with oversized buckles and austere cotton corsetry – a hard edge to the ruffled tiers that trapezed the torso, halterneck dresses neatly buttoned to the top while wraped layers unfurled from the hips. If the wild florals felt a little too predictable, Joop’s alternative vie for femininity felt entirely futuristic, inflating shoulders and sharpening hips to file his army of extra-terrestrial bodies.
Y/Project Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear
Presented in the suggestive location of the Lycée Charlemagne, Y/Project Spring Summer 17 was full of youthful energy. Glenn Martens presented a collection played around the boundaries of oversized and tight, low and high, light and dark. From his signature denim to the opulent crashed velvet. There were oversized sleeves, cut out pants with a detachable gather, and a multitude of transformable garments: adjustable corsets worn as a ruffled decoration over knits, pants you can just button up at the leg side, peek-a-boo shirts and long dresses to be laced up. It is a collection built to the last detail and Martens proved to be a master constructing layers played around volumes, a fun cool-kid attitude and a feminine subtle sensual vibe.
Swarovski for Peter Lindbergh
The exhibition Peter Lindbergh – A different Vision on Fashion Photography has announced Swarovski as their Golden Partner as they tour internationally. Curated in the Kunsthal in Rotterdam, the exhibition highlights the photographer’s influence on the fashion industry and him challenging the preconceived notion of beauty, spread across nine sections in the gallery including Dance, Supermodels and Icons. Four of Lindbergh’s fine art prints put on display are embellished with Swarovski Crystals, as well as a Swarovski Crystal Rocks platform including the photographer’s famous alien costume. “Lindbergh’s democratic vision is expressed in partnership with Swarovski, who have generously supported this project and share the same humanist values as Lindbergh,” says curator Thierry-Maxime Loriot.
NEU NOW Festival 2016
60 emerging talented artists from 18 different countries and a programme filled with design, architecture, performance, film, music and artist talks. The 8th edition of NEU NOW festival will open from 14th to the 18th September, located at the Westergasfabriek. The international art festival celebrates upcoming creatives and spawns career opportunities, providing support for imminent artists throughout the year. On the night of the 17th, in collaboration with Warteiner, the European League of Institutes of the Arts' initiative NEU NOW invites visitors to a late-night programme with drink and music, provided by deadHYPE and Jo Goes Hunting.
BALLY AW16 Campaign
Emerging London based photographer Jack Davison captures youthful eccentricities in the BALLY AW16 campaign, featuring a dynamic cast of eight models, including the Guinevere Van Seenus, Finnlay Davis and Dutch model Ina Maribo Jensen. The images portray the nature of an artists’ studio in the 70s. As Davison seizes the individual and different personalities, he is also able to unite them in their spirit, prominent in current and future BALLY collections. “What fascinates me about Jack’s work is his ability to capture intimacy in his portraits; because it is about real emotions," Design Director Pablo Coppola says of the collaboration with the young photographer, while Davison reveals; “I trust in the moment, go into the situation and let myself be guided by my instincts.”
MARC O'POLO DENIM Campaign Fall/Winter 2016
The latest MARC O’POLO DENIM campaign presents a new and young generation, boosting with confidence, creativity and translates the brands’ DENIM collection in their own way. Bruce Weber’s pupil Sean Thomas knew how to accurately illustrate this generation, while stylist Ursina Gysi created the modern looks. Following on from the last campaign, shown at the heart of the images is the metropolitan climate of Paris – unconventional, natural and multicultural.
Diesel Black Gold Resort 2017
Creative Director Andreas Melbostad has mixed an early nineties mood with Diesel Black Gold’s known utilitarian style, creating Resort 2017. Styled with gladiator boots and black pointy biker shoes to keep a clean cut and metropolitan spirit, the collection adapts new proportions that allow masculine shapes to appeal more feminine. Layering of skirts over long shirts, off-the-shoulder biker jackets and poplin dresses are this seasons’ statement look. For its men’s collection, Melbostad experiments with parachute trousers made from trench fabric, but keeps a utilitarian feel with bomber and denim jackets and sweatshirts, a sportswear essential.
Tim Coppens Spring/Summer 2017
Spring/Summer 2017 is for Belgian designer Tim Coppens influenced by traditional Japanese dress, with references as the incorporated judo-style belts and kimono-inspired prints on bomber jackets. The collection also references Coppens’ 90s upbringing and the skate scene with colour blocked sports gear, yet sticks to Coppens’ signature tailoring and use of technical fabrics. Introduced in this collection is Tim Coppens original footwear, a line of structurally cut, leather sneakers. This will be available from next spring.
Diesel Black Gold FW16 Campaign
Mica Arganaraz and Louie Johnson feature in the Diesel Black Gold Fall/Winter 2016 campaign, shot by Karim Sadli. Creative director Andreas Melbostad embraces Diesel Black Gold’s urban approach in the images and reveals, “Mica and Louie, through the lens of Karim, convey a strong yet understated message of individuality and confidence.” The duo is dressed in iconic outerwear pieces of the new collection, including the women’s biker cape and the men’s utility parka. Furthermore we see a mix of leather and quilted nylon.
Dior Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2016/17
Lucie Meier and Serge Ruffieux’ Dior Haute Couture collection is predominantly in black and white, which is a reflection of their relationship; it represents history and modernity and while opposites, when together it creates something greater than apart. Dior’s iconic Bar suit, tailored jacket and full skirt see the Autumn/Winter 2016/16 collection go back to its origins. The skirt was the starting point, after which Meier and Ruffieux started experimenting with the lining, draping and pleating of evening dresses and skirts.The only colour visible is gold as embroidery, which is inspired by raw art and the works of César and Claude Lalanne.
Schiaparelli Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2016/17
Circus, the famous collection for summer 1938 inspired this season’s new show, which almost felt magical. Sharp silhouettes and sparkling details defined the wardrobe for a strong, confident woman with Parisian charisma yet worldly imagination. The Schiaparelli’s jacket is architecturally structured with striking shoulder lining, while keeping its femininity through the fluidity and sheerness of the dresses. This collection stays through to Schiaparelli’s signature style of infusing art into fashion and plays with sensuality through added slits and shorts.
Fondation Louis Vuitton To Exhibit ICONS OF MODERN ART
ICONS OF MODERN ART – The Shchukin Collection will be exposed at the Fondation Louis Vuitton later this year, paying tribute to Russian art collection Sergei Shchukin. Moscow-born Shchukin was an industrialist before getting involved with Parisian art evolutions, like the impressionist, post-impressionist and modern movements, which resulted in becoming one of the most radical art collection of the 20th century. Thanks to contribution of the Hermitage Museum and Pushkin Museum, this exhibition will be able to showcase 130 art pieces from Shchukin’s archive, including works of Monet, Picasso and Van Gogh, along many more. The exhibition, generally curated by Anne Baldassari with help from Shckukin’s grandson André-Marc Delocque Fourcaud, has a culture programme encircling, focussing on dance and music and the artistic relationship between France and Russia commencing early last century, which is still relevant today.
The exhibition will run from October 22nd until February 20th 2017.
Giorgio Armani New Normal A/W 2016/17 Campaign
Giorgio Armani announces its New Normal Autumn/Winter 2016/17 advertising campaign, shot in black and white by Peter Lindbergh on the Plage du Touquet in France. Giorgio Armani New Normal focuses on today’s women, proposing classic, timeless garments. The series of natural images promotes the idea of a global, multi-faceted beauty and features models Liu Wen, Liya Kebede, Elisa Sednaoui and Amanda Murphy. “I wanted to show different types of beauty, without barriers – four young women who experience the present in their own ways”, thus revealing Giorgio Armani.
MBFW: Laurél S/S 2017
The mix between the chic and the casual is key to the Laurél S/S 2017 collection, which was first shown at the Berlin Fashion Week these days, bringing summer to the city. Above anything the collection is stunningly summery. It is all about monochrome colours. A lush blue, yellow and red allow for primal colours to contrast different black-and-white combinations. Cleanly cut garments of flowing fabrics include light blazers, flared trousers, dresses with V-necklines and jumpsuits. There is the touch of a slightly ethnic feel to the collection, pronounced in off-shoulder tops and dresses as well as tassel earrings and pom pom necklaces. Highlights are a striped black-and-white beach ensemble with flared pants and a crop top or the filigree knitted floor-length dress with slits at each side revealing the model’s long legs. While the collection makes use of stripes and symmetric patterns, it finishes with a girlish white dress, incorporating a pattern of white flowers on a sheer fabric. This is how city girls celebrate the summer.
MBFW: Hien Le Spring/Summer 2017
Showcased outdoors in a beautiful courtyard this Tuesday was the Hien Le Spring/Summer 2017 collection, at Berlin Fashion Week. The collection draws inspiration from the sculptural process, converted unto the garments through layering, cut-outs and various transparencies. Proposed is an elegant yet sporty alternative garments made from light cotton, different kinds of silk and Japanese tech textiles. The collection is elegant in its meticulous tailoring and includes sportswear elements. Hien Le has for this collection collaborated with Mini Cooper and created a limited sweater line with heart-shaped prints.
Peter Lindbergh - A Different Vision On Fashion Photography
Uma Thurman, Los Angeles, USA, 2011 Vogue Italia © Peter Lindbergh (Courtesy of Peter Lindbergh, Paris / Gagosian Gallery)
An exhibition celebrating German photographer Peter Lindbergh’s inspiring work will open September 10th 2016 in the Kunsthal, Rotterdam. One of fashions most influential photographers with the infamous image of the 90s Supermodels, or The Big Six, on his repertoire, will make this exhibition one for the books. The gallery will have his material divided in nine different sections, including Couturiers, Dance and Icons. Lindbergh initiated bringing a narrative to fashion photography and includes a sense of realism, which in an age of excessive photo retouching changed the norms of beauty. The photographer is often referred to as the ‘Photographer of Truth’, as he rejects the concept of social status in his work. Lindbergh: ”This should be the responsibility of photographers today to free women, and finally everyone, from the terror of youth and perfection.”
The exhibition will run until February 12th 2017.
PFW: Dior Homme Spring 2017
The 80s Punk together with the New Wave scene in a modern key. Kris Van Assche fun fair for Dior Homme proposed tailored pieces, sportswear and strong punk elements interconnected in a balance of contrast. Van Assche worked his inspiration from its childhood in Antwerp and the rebellious world of those years. We see tailored jackets combined with relaxed oversized pants together with sleek slim trousers matched with bomber jackets. It's certainly a collection that plays around contradictions and opposites. Classic rigor is subverted by flashbacks of 80s subcultures with a multitude of details entirely made by the artisanal in-house team : pinstripe fray, printed flower embroidery patches and the red thread hand-sew stitching through denim, suits, knitwear, almost as recalling of a statement scar stitching - beautiful and yet painful.
Roberto Cavalli Fall/Winter 2016 Campaign
A focus on the new Cavalli tribe and the art of the garments is shown in the Roberto Cavalli Fall/Winter 2016 advertising campaign, show by Tim Walker. Dressed in the men’s and womenswear pieces by the brands creative director Peter Dundas, a collection filled with embellished, embroidered and dazzlingly textured pieces. The images portray a sense of youthfulness and sensuality, as the models lay clothed in and nude covered by roses against a minimal background, giving the portraits a bohemian, yet glam rock feel.
PFW: COMME DES GARÇONS HOMME PLUS
Rei Kawakubo wanted to tease with the idea of today’s world receiving too much information. Themed after Hans Christian Andersen’s Naked King’ we see the Spring/Summer 2017 collection for Comme des Garçons Homme Plus, a show filled with transparent items, printed with designs made by Italian company Fornasetti and with messages such as ‘beauty is in the eye’. Comme des Garçons Homme Plus collaborated with Nike Dunk style on it’s footwear for the show, a line-up of trainers in different variations of colours.
BALLY Men's Spring/Summer & Women's Resort 2017 Collection
Bally presents a sense of nostalgia in the spring/summer and women’s Resort 2017 collection. A retro sense and memories of disco platforms at the gym is what Karlheinz Weinberger’s photographs have captured. The juxtaposed reality of the 80s “Teen Wolf” (1985), Francis Ford Coppola’s “The Outsiders” looking to belong in this campaign. An edelweiss flower on a Western shirt and playful archive prints come to life. This is enriched with David Hicks bold colours on Japanese kimonos and leisure suits for everyday. Bally expresses the happy grunge and the MTV generation.
PFW: BALENCIAGA SPRING 2017
Heeled boots and boxy jackets, Demna Gvasalia knows how to keep things interesting. The Balenciaga Spring 2017 collection, the brands first ever men’s runway show, exhibited on the beautiful rooftop of the Lycée Saint-Louis-de-Gonzague in Paris, saw structured silhouettes and wide shoulders in coats, trousers accessorised with lengthy silver chains and cropped shirts with elastic bottom. Gvasalia said that he “wanted a feel of formality, of perfection, to everything.”
Blumarine Fall/Winter 2016/17
Nonchalant and seductive is the woman in the new Blumarine advertising campaign. She plays with the irony of her nature, effortlessly alternating strength and fragility, romanticism and carnality. Her personality is emphasized by the elegant and modern looks that simultaneously nod to the history of Blumarine.
The new Blumarine Fall/Winter 2016-17 advertising campaign describes a cinematic homecoming with Julia Hafstrom being a confident and eclectic woman shot by Inez & Vinoodh.The soft atmosphere of an atemporal and essential setting is the backdrop for the campaign that interprets the historic codes of the house with a new emphasis while contextualizing them into the present. The depth of the scene and the subtle color palette of the background bestow a vibrant and unexpected liveliness to the clothes.
MFW: MISSONI SPRING 2017
The Missoni Spring 2017 collection is heavily inspired by Guatemala, a trip Angela Missoni remembers going on with her mother when she was just 15 years old. The collection commences with contrasting tribal prints in knits and a vibrant colour palette in suits and shorts. Infused are embroidered shirts, white hats and brown pointy shoes, giving off a western feel. Missoni refers to the collection and her models as the “Gautemalan cowboys”.
MFW: SALVATORE FERRAGAMO SPRING 2017
Salvatore Ferragamo’s Spring 2017 collection is the first one since the departure of Creative Director Massimiliano Giornetti. The design team chose camping as its theme and was influenced by artist Jean Arp, as his colourful drawings were seen throughout the show as printed on ties and blouses. The collection is innovative but sensible, with suits that are contemporary yet classic. The camping theme came through with the use of stylized backpacks, but also hinted at through the use of some earthy colours.
MFW: FENDI SPRING 2017
“Sun and fun”, Silvia Venturini said of the collection post-show. Rebuild is a Mediterranean villa, which results in an airy and fresh feel to the Fendi Spring 2017 collection. The garments’ details are whimsical and dynamic, the colours pleasant and lively. Pequin stripes are incorporated in a new way and the models are styled with travel bags and backpacks which indicated to the fun summer theme. Fendi has introduced its first men’s eyewear collection for this show in collaboration with Safilo.
MFW: PHILIPP PLEIN SPRING 2017
The PHILIPP PLEIN Spring 2017 collection takes it inspiration from American Basketball, complete with stylized basketball shorts and shoes, transitioning into embroidered denim, leather jackets and bombers. The German designer teamed up with Swarovski to embellish the collections sportswear pieces, creating a glam active wear collection. Starting off with hints of orange, the collection develops into solely black and white, and later back to red hues. Rapper Busta Rhymes performed, making it a real authentic PHILIPP PLEIN experience.
Prada Menswear Fall/Winter 2016 Advertising Campaign
Eddie Redmayne takes centre stage in the new Prada Menswear Fall/Winter 2016 Advertising Campaign. Redmayne, who is one of the of contemporary cinema’s most celebrated actors, is no stranger to immersing himself in historically significant characters. In the new menswear Prada campaign is presented the idea of the present moment itself being as a theatre of history. This idea is performed in a suite of striking portrait allusions. Redmayne, assumes a number of roles - hero, villain, revolutionary - either against a neutral grey background, or a rich red split by a romanticist view of idealized nature. Craig McDean’s pictures invoke 19th century neo-classical paintings, which famously played with surface and depth, illusion and reality. These photographs continue the spirit of the Prada Fall/Winter 2016 Menswear show, which presented an excursus through times past as a reflection on time present. Overall, the result is a contemporary masculinity that aligns worldly travel with intrepid self-knowledge and oblique, original thinking.
Acne Studios Pre-Fall 2016 Collection Available Now
Acne Studios’ Pre-Fall 2016 is available now. Satin slip dresses, plaids in contrasting colours and textures as well as the reaction of fire created in a print of torn paper makes for a vibrant and electric collection. The collection varies from camel pinstripe trousers to orange denim jackets, which gives the opportunity to explore trends and infuse new key pieces to your existing wardrobe. “I’m interested in how groups of kids mirror each other's look and wear certain items for a sense of belonging. When we put these looks together, I wanted to explore that short period where there's that tension between individuality and the group dynamic”, says Creative Director Jonny Johansson, the brands Creative Director.
LC:M Bobby Abley
A Disney-inspired runway. Theme of Bobby Abley’s collection is fictional character Aladdin, making for a fun and exciting show to watch, whilst also reminiscing to your childhood. The collection sticks to Abley’s signature sport style, with the magic carpet as pattern, jumpers and tees printed with enchanted lamps and slogans like ‘put me the right way’. The designer launched his label in 2012 and had his first show two years later scheduled through fashion initiative MAN at London Collections Men. It’s now grown into a well-established and acknowledged brand, which leaves us to say that Bobby Abley is here to stay.
LC:M Phoebe English
Presenting her men’s collection for the first time at LCM goes in true English’ fashion; models sat in a waiting room, sewing patterns on needle-point canvas to keep them busy, until it’s their time to get up and get pictures taken. The collection of all-natural fabrics, shown in the 180 The Strand Presentation Space, is created using a minimal colour palette, mainly including blue, black and white. Phoebe English revealed she is influenced by her boyfriend and male friends, who generally wear stripes, something which is visible in what she describes this romantic-utilitarian collection.
Future, Present, Past, The Strokes Travel Back In Time
It has been pretty quiet from the American indie-rock band front in recent years, however the wait for new music has come to an end. The Strokes last studio album Comedown Machine was released back in 2013, but they decided to cut off from social media and not promote the album, with only a few performances here and there. The new EP Future, Present, Past is available now for you to enjoy. Lead singer Julian Casablancas debuted OBLIVIUS on his own radio show, Culture Void on Sirius XMU. The extended play consists of four tracks, three original new songs and a remix of OBLIVIUS, by Moretti. The band completely distinguish themselves from what’s currently on the hit lists and sticks to what works for them, which results in a moody but balanced album soothing for the upcoming summer. It’s a satisfying new addition to your vacation playlist.
Anthony Vaccarello Fall/Winter 2016 Women's Ready-to-Wear Campaign
Anthony Vaccarello showed his natural seductive vibes in his ready-to-wear collection into black and white advertising featuring the Czech model Eva Herzigova. The designer has been inspired by architectural lines and lingerie hardware and the mood is reflective of the collection's natural femininity. The images, shot in black & white, feature iconic model Eva Herzigova walking in a stud farm, outside Paris. For the Fall/Winter 2016 ready-to-wear campaign, Anthony Vaccarello collaborates once again with the Dutch fashion photographer duo Inez Van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin. The styling is by Alastair McKimm and it is the third season the designer and the two men are collaborating.
Palladium Champions Pack
Inspired by the Paris Fashion Week and at the same time from the eclectic style of football stars, Palladium Boots have prepared a very special edition of their beloved classic Pampa Hi: the Champions Pack. For the Palladium Boots Champions Pack the materials that were used can be seen for the first time on Palladium boats. The iconic logo patch on the side of the shaft was plated with 24 carat gold, just like the eyelets of the boat. Noble, waxed laces add an additional high fashion appeal.
Palladium Boots Champions Pack consists of the Pampa Hi in black and a matching, specially designed backpack. This special collection was produced as a tribute to our Champions in very limited quantities.
Palladium Boots is a brand made in France and inspired by this beautiful country.
Gucci Menswear Pre Spring/Summer Cruise 2017
Gucci has a fresh and youthful approach on this Pre Spring/Summer Cruise 2017 collection.
Alessandro Michele reinvented the house by taking snippets of its past, mostly from its heydays in the 70s, and reworking them into something that feels both reverential of their origins but also distinctly neoteric.
The collection was unique, distinctive, and unforgettable. The clothes had the compulsorily trinity needed to satisfy the social media saturated consumers of today. The retro style remains on the Menswear collection and the colours are bright with red, burgundy, green and blue to conquer on this collection while the patterns have stripes, animal print, chequer and floral.
Chanel Cruise Collection 2017 Presented in Cuba
Hundreds of fashionistas in vintage convertible cars filled Paseo de Prado to watch Karl Lagerfeld making history with presenting his summer creations on the first ever fashion show on the island. Beach colours and souvenir T-shirts as well as optic white Broderie anglaise and summer tweed suits in lighter weight fabrics were some of the collection’s pieces. Lagerfeld was inspired by the ‘cultural richness and opening up of Cuba’ showing on the collection cabanas patterns and Chanel’s characteristic jackets in many colours while the Panama hats were the main accessorize of the show. Drummers, dancers and Karl Lagerfeld himself emerged to get the party started on the boulevard, as models jumped back into the convertible cars for the Insta-opportunity of a lifetime. Chanel gave every visitor a guide book and allowed them to get out and explore the country’s rich culture.
Ulay at MOT International
One year after the idea found footing in the pages of ZOO Issue 47, the life-size collages of Ulay will now take the form of a physical exhibition. Staged at the MOT International in Brussels, Anagrammatic Bodies presents a series of life-size collages: fragmented full-body compositions which merge the figures of models who make up a mix of gestures, genders and generations. In many ways, this new series can be regarded an extension of the founding values that rendered Ulay a luminary of 1970s photography, his idiosyncratic stare an inadvertent appraisal of identity, but an inevitable one, at that. Ulay’s artistic awareness was ignited in early childhood, exposed in them most immediate sense to the atrocities of World War II. His ‘anti-aesthetic’ is one salvaged from the ruins of his environment; the loss of his father in early childhood, together with his mother’s subsequent social withdrawal, imposed on Ulay the charge to tether his own upbringing, establishing an identity through his smoothing of the splinters. In a quite sinister instance of child’s play, the dismemberment and consequent reassembly of a sparrow – innocently slain at the hands of he and his friends – would unwittingly divine a direction for Ulay’s formative future output. His Anagrammatic Aphorisms of the mid-70s segmented and then pieced together the performative traits of his character, a visceral dissection of the social, sexual roles of individuals outlined as ‘the other’, finding subjects in the transvestite and transsexual subcultures of Amsterdam, and more often than not, himself. Ulay’s evocative application of the human body as an articulation of identity holds as much meaning then as it does today – his reshuffled female figures immortalized in the pages of ZOO last year pointing to the collective tacit strength of character. Now installed at Brussels’ MOT International gallery as part of Ulay’s Come On exhibition, their life-size proportions prevail with an indomitable power.
Come On will be on show at the MOT International, Brussels, from 12th May – 16th July 2016.
Kour Pour's Onnagata in Berlin
At Berlin's Gnyp Gallery, artist Kour Pour intersects Europe's fascination with Japanese culture with the art themes of fragility, instability and deconstruction. What at first sounds like a mismatched mixture inevitably makes sense in the artist's latest display “Onnagata”, presented at the Berlin gallery from April 24th onwards. The title is taken from the Japanese word used to describe male kabuki actors playing female roles in Japanese theatre. It stands as a metaphor for the shifting of meaning inhabited by tectonic plates, which also play a significant role in the exhibition's DNA. Pour applied the laborious, physical and ritualistic process of making tectonic paintings, inspired by volcano maps used by the Japanese Geological survey. The result is a range of artworks that allude to Japanese Ukiyo-e prints, an art form that already fascinated the likes of Van Gogh, Degas and Toulouse-Lautrec. The works share a visual resemblance with contemporary abstraction embedded in an European and American tradition. With Onnagata, Kour Pour brilliantly links a Japenese manufacturing process with an aesthetic rooted in Western culture. It's a connection that sets a spark, like a volcano erupting. If we were Kour Pour, we would have been inspired, too.
Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2016
Louis Vuitton' collection for Fall 2016 was all about reflection. Quite literally, if one references the voluptuous mirror installation the designs were shown in. On a more theoretic note, Creative Director Nicolas Ghesquière also reflected on different facets of his employer as a brand and his own work as a designer. Starting off with silk print dresses that recall notorious scarf prints, the designer threw in a chunk of brand heritage. All the while, though, Ghesquière stayed focused on modern street fashion, slicing and assembling modern aspect in each garment. Shape wise, Fall/Winter Vuitton is all about the waist. Super-cropped, boxy jackets accentuate a remarkably slim waist, while printed sweaters and dresses imitate the shape through contrasting prints that resemble an optical illusion. Skirts, dresses and trousers end just above the ankle, giving way to laced combat boots that mark a harsh counterpart to the sometimes soft and light dresses. This more firm note is supported by dark lipstick used on all models, sometimes in combination with a rather strict hairstyle. Nevertheless, Ghesquière also leaves room for less harsh elements, such as batwing sleeves and a triple-print forming the penultimate look. With this collection, Louis Vuitton has perfectly applied he art of reflection: it has to cover multiple facets, for to be honest, the look in the mirror is never the same.
Kenzo Fall/Winter 2016
Ladies and gentlemen, please note: the Kenzo Fall 2016 collection includes the following: V-neck dresses (very formal), appealing outerwear in blue, flower pint on grey suit-fabric, tiger prints in red and gold and ruffled shoulders by the dozen. On Tuesday night in Paris, it might have been as hard for the fashion crowd as it was for you to remember these elements. Kenzo presented a rather various collection, that, despite its broad range of inspirations, still had continuous elements. One of them are the aforementioned ruffled shoulders, recalling the designs of both shirt blouses and garments from past decades. They circle the collection together with puffy shoulders, round or V-neck collars and at many times slim waists. With this collection, Kenzo showed how to unify a collection without convulsing into an assembly of more or less the same item. It's shape, silhouette and signature elements that keep the 54 looks under one roof. Make sure to note that, too.
Gucci's Second #GucciGram
Since Alessandro Michele has taken over the reigns at Gucci, nothing the brand puts on the market is monochrome, monotonous or dull. Take their eclectic, era-spawning collections, themes and innovations, or, for example, the collaborative digital #GucciGram project. Launched in its second installment, the project now dotes upon the new Gucci Tian pattern and invited artists and online illustrators to interpret and rework their own style of the pattern. What arose from that is imagery featuring everything from blurry cats to butterflies in a jar to a floral skyline building and cartoon figures crossing the street. The eclectic, multifaceted spirit to this campaign was created by only Asian-origined artists, referencing the cultural background of the pattern itself. At the same time, the artworks refer to Western orientalist fantasies and 18th-century Chinoiserie. The final results will not only be shown across the artists' social media accounts, but naturally also on Gucci's instagram account and on an extra micro website. Gram it or talk it, if there's one thing that Gucci gets going, it's participation.
Hermès Fall/Winter 2016
Keeping it clean and simple, reducing and seizing the detail sometimes pays off best for a fashion brand. At least, it does for Hermès. For the Fall/Winter 2016 collection, their garments were strained through the sieve of overdoing, leaving an assembly of designs that convinces in its simplicity. This season, the Hermès woman is the goddess of clear lines, of understatement and coolness. She is oozing confidence, she doesn't need much and has everything at hand to walk you over in the blink of an eye. Wonder what her wardrobe actually looks like? If not designed with an atypical pattern, there are hardly ever more than two or three colors to one look. Hermès went for monochrome combinations in shimmering gold, classic black or seductive oxblood. For lighter days, one can opt for smooth greys, cream whites and beiges, sometimes set together like paint color samples in a catalogue. Art-like assembly is another motif at Hermès in general; the items seem to be pieced, either in cut or color, with unique precision and strategy. It is out of question that the French brand applied fine, high-quality tailoring – their customers would never dare brushing off quality. Sometimes it pays off to take the quiet road, indeed. Remember Hermès.
Dior Fall/Winter 2016
Dior's Fall/Winter 2016 presentation might be the last time it's appropriate to mention Raf Simon's departure. Yes, he is gone, and yes, everyone was both thrilled and excited to see what would come next for the traditional Parisian house. No need for discussion, cut to the chase: what was there? All-black-everything looks marked a dark and gloomy start to the presentation but were quickly followed by allover floral designs that were once again reminiscent of Simons' work. Other than that, Dior presented femininity, meaning tight waistlines and short skirts, flowing to the sides or sometimes stiffly sitting on the hips. Sharpness is the base to the collection's tailoring, which – and why wouldn't it - was as precise and detailed as ever. Asymmetry and V-Necks are Dior's thing this season and often incorporated together in the making of lascivious dresses or the final piece, an egg-shaped white coat, falling loosely over one shoulder in a relaxed attitude. In fact, this final look may stand for everything the future beholds for Dior: relaxation. Drop the shoulder, drop the fear. The future can be bright for Dior, and after Fall/Winter 16, we see no reason why it wouldn't turn out to be so. Good luck.
Prada Women F/W 2016
On February 25th in Milan, Prada's F/W 2016 womenswear collection had you reminisce immediately. Contrary to other collections, though, one does not think back to past decades or centuries, but just to one month ago, when Prada presented its menswear collection. It seems the leading theme this season that the menswear collections were somewhat a preparation to the womenswear designs. Or, for want of a better word, the womenswear designs are their continuation. However you'd like to put it, Prada's latest designs pick up elements from menswear, such as the unmistakable sailor hats and eclectic pattern mix. Especially the latter is striking, for the list to enumerate all patterns used by Prada would be far too long. Another key element to this collection is the waist-slimming belt that completes almost every look. Recalling medieval designs and lacing, the accessory enforces a hourglass silhouette, a contrast to the mainly loose silhouettes displayed by Miuccia Prada's colleagues this season. It is as if the laced design unites all 52 looks, whether they in themselves recall nautical elements, tribal art or graphic prints (yes, all in one collection). We wouldn't know how to describe it except for “very Prada”. Take a look at the collection, and you'll surely understand. Grazie, Miuccia.
Photos: Monica Feudi.
Emporio Armani F/W 16
Emporio Armani’s latest Fall/Winter collection consists of one thing: consistency. In days where coherent collections are long gone, Giorgio Armani presented a range that sees each item blend with the next like the graphic blocks in a tetris game. In fact, graphics such as the popular video game seem to have been an inspiration for maestro Armani. Triangles, circles, squares, featured in neon and pastel colors printed or sewed on black, remind of 90s tapestries and sticker embellishment. Armani transfers these into high-end ready-to-wear pieces that fit both the office and the dinner gala easily. For the Italian brand, it pays off working piece by piece, square by square, stripe by stripe. The result is next level. Whether at Tetris or at fashion, you decide.
Pictures: Yannis Vlamos.
FENDI Fall/Winter 2016
When Fendi announced that at their F/W 2016 show, two life-size furry FENDIRUMI monsters would greet viewers, little did one know that their fluffy fur would actually transfer itself onto the clothing. The FENDIRUMI are the brand’s iconic bag charms that were introduced in two new versions alongside the collection at Milan Fashion Week. As mentioned, that particular collection also didn’t hold back on fur. The fluffy material is the main player in this season’s designs and used in the making of coats, vests and even handbags. For those who don’t ride on the fuzzy train, Fendi presented exquisitely tailored garments, often tight at the waist in an overall loose silhouette and adorned with ruffles at top or bottom. Next to striped patterns and dark-on-dark looks, baby blue is sprinkled through the collection like colour splatters on a painting. Ruffled boots, bags, yes, even the furry coats were designed in the iridescent colour, making the perfect match to the pink fur coat that was presented at Gucci’s show just one day earlier. The Italian’s know how to do it, and even two life-size monsters can’t distract us from it.
Photos: Yannis Vlamos
Louis Vuitton Pre-Fall 2016
They say all good things come in threes, and with Louis Vuitton, three seems to be the lucky number. Their latest Pre-Fall collection stands on three major pillars that are core to the Maison’s designs: neo-classic, elevated sportswear and the dream adventure. Beneath these summarizing definitions lays a collection that forms a complete wardrobe playing on androgyny and the fluidity of style. With Louis Vuitton, all things are fluid, such as the video shot by campaign photographer Karim Sadli, defined by energetic motion and movements. Such fluidity is supported by the actual designs that come across as confident monochrome looks. Color is not a theme in this collection, with only few sprinkled inserts highlighting shoulders or hips. Nevertheless, Vuitton plays with contrasts in tartan dresses, sporty legwear and a block-striped coat. According to the fashion house, this collection’s interpretation depends upon the point of view and personal prism of its wearer. And that’s the best thing about fashion: your wardrobe is your adventure. Welcome to Pre-Fall.
DKNY RTW Fall 2016
What clearly stayed in mind from DKNY’s latest Fall/Winter collection were the oversized coats, made from shiny, synthetic materials and featuring a voluminous shape that seems to be very much on the rise this season. Their floor-length design, paired with evenly oversized lacing, expressed a ruling confidence that left the viewer in admiration for Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow, the designer duo revolutionizing the DKNY brand from the core. However, even if the oversize shape is an undeniably strong force in this collection, not everything was out of proportion. Osborne and Chow made free assembly their friend and presented cut-out shirts with varying lengths, dresses not only with fabric but shape combinations and a contrasting material mix. Contrast could also be detected in the color palette, which saw heavy dark tones confronted with sparkling red and white. While this all may trick you into a very serious state of mind, the designers proved to have not forgotten about the splash of humor every fashion collection needs: whereas in the 90ies, DKNY was known for sprawling their logo across their items, the new designs simply read “Insert Logo Here”. Confidence, charisma and humor – if this collection was a person, we’d sure like to be introduced.
BOSS Fall/Winter 2016
She’s a lady, her style is feminine. She’s a lady, her style is high-end. She’s a lady, she wears BOSS. For the latest Fall/Winter designs, BOSS’ art director Jason Wu put the spot on supreme femininity. Don’t think girlish, playful themes – Wu picks up his path with curvy lines that enhance the female silhouette and effortlessly create an immaculate look. Manufactured by dedicated craftsman hands, the collection lines up an impressive assortment of high-quality materials such as felt, satin, mesh and bouclé. It is Wu’s strength to combine these clashing fabrics into elaborate designs. He takes on that by finding surprising inspiration in modern architecture, which equips the softer designs with still precise hems and edges. The colors float upon another wave, ranging from hot pink to cinnamon tones, natural green, beiges while simultaneously covering a large scale of female tastes. It is precision with fragility that BOSS presented at New York Fashion Week, for the woman that is fierce with just a little bit of floral. She’s a lady, and she doesn’t only wear BOSS. She is boss.
Tommy Hilfiger RTW Fall 2016
In Fall 2016, Tommy Hilfiger has the sails set. His latest collection, presented in an extravagant set at New York Fashion week, sets off to the sea with maritime inspirations in all their nautical beauty. Now, it would be too easy to just restyle sailor archives to appropriate their look for 2016. Hilfiger on the contrary made his nautical references visible, but still wearable on dry land. Stripes pop up on various garments and materials, from shiny tops to floating dresses, sometimes presented in the traditional sailor manner, sometimes only hinted with a few stripes at the bottom. Classic navy embellishments also made the cut and can be found on coats, blazers and even sheer dresses. For those who want to experience the ride on the sea in a more graphic way, the designer created repetitive patterns for all kinds of garments, showing small drawings of boats, anchors, dancing sailor, wales and more. On the runway, new brand ambassador Gigi Hadid, who opened the show in a shifty beige dress and closed it as the gold-glittering sea travel princess, fronted the show. Full speed ahead!
Capital Ride: Berlinale 2016
Ladies and gentlemen, jump on the wagon; it’s time to set off for Berlinale! From February 11, in a spread of 10 days, the German capital will once again be home to the finest in moving images. From international blockbusters to independent movies, the international film festival offers everything you’d want to watch. In fact, the programme is that various that even native Berliner’s will find their head in a spin. Thus, jump on ZOO’s film ride now and catch up with what is not to miss at this year’s Berlinale:
Chi-Raq © Parrish Lewis
Stop 1: Chi-Raq “Chi-Raq” is a modern take on Aristophanes’ play “Lysistrata” and stars a variety of high-profile celebrities such as Mariah Carey’s ex-husband Nick Cannon, Angela Bassett, Jennifer Hudson and Samuel L. Jackson. The plot: in violence-driven Chicago, a female movement aims to shut down outbursts through a sex-strike. On display i.e. at the Berlinale Palast, Tue. 16.02., 10 PM
Hail, Caesar! © Universal Pictures
Stop 2: Hail, Caesar! Next stop: Rome! Well, in mind. More like Hollywood. With “Hail, Caesar!”, cult-directors Jonathan & Ethan Coen peek behind the coulisses of 1950s Hollywood. George Clooney mimes the kidnapped Caesar-actor while Josh Brolin is the studio-boss that strives to keep everything under control. Need we say more? On display i.e. at the Friedrichstadt-Palast, Thur. 11.02., 8.30 PM
Midnight Special © Ben Rollstein/Warner Bros. Entertainment/Ratpac-Dune LLC.
Stop 3: Midnight Special Next up on the film ride is a movie that accumulates everything: father-and-son road trip, the exploration of sect-culture, religion and politics in one – not to forget the subcultures that come with the American province. “Midnight Special” stars former ZOO-coverstar Michael Shannon, Kirsten Dunst and Joel Edgerton. On display i.e. at Haus der Berliner Festspiele, Sat. 13.02., 11 AM.
Maggie's Plan © John Pack / Hall Monitor, Inc.
Stop 4: Maggie’s Plan As part of their Panorama programme, the Berlinale presents a movie about 30-year old Maggie, who after invitro fertilization meets the love of her life. Naturally, the patchwork family life doesn’t work as it’s supposed to do. Starring Greta Gerwig, Ethan Hawke and Julianne Moore. On display i.e. at Zoo Palast 1, Sun., 21.02., 9.30 PM.
Stop 5: Goat How is extreme masculinity built these days? Andrew Neels’ “Goat” explores the violent side. 19-year old Brad does not only experience violence after a robbery, but also when entering a student fraternity at university. Starring James Franco, Nick Jonas and Ben Schnetzer. On display i.e. at CinemaxX7, Fri. 12.02., 10 AM.
Final Stop: Culinary Cinema & Berlinale Goes Kiez Next to all artistic endeavors, the final stop on this film ride focuses on the Berlinale special projects. One of them is the culinary cinema, showcasing 11 film features about the relation between food, culture and politics. Additionally, since 2010, the Berlinale hosts the “Berlinale Goes Kiez” programme, which moves the flying red carpet to small cinemas around Berlin on seven evenings, each one having a renowned personality as its patron.
434 films, 10 days and numerous red carpets filled with celebrities – it is impossible to swish through the Berlinale in just one ride. Consider this festival a hop-on, hop-off travel. You can’t fathom everything. Even if you just get a slight idea of it – we’re sure it will strike you just as much. Everyone get off, please!
Versace Shares Emoji App and T-Shirts
Valentine’s Day is just around the corner and so is the big fear: what am I going to do? If you’re one half of a happy couple but haven’t found the right gift just yet, Versace will stand beside you. Released on the day of love, the brand shares its #VersaceSharesLove project that centers around the 21st century expression of emotions: emojis. Versace has launched its own emoji app with which users can embellish their photos with a range of backgrounds, filters, text colors and – of course- emojis. Now, these are not just your regular go-to emojis, but ones that Versace had customized: they come stylized as the iconic Versace Medusa head. Along with the free app download comes the perfect gift. Versace launches a new line of T-Shirts, embellished once again with the special smiley head. So if on the 14th, you’re short for words in order to express your feelings, just send the hearty-eyed medusa. He or she will understand you, for sure.
SIKI IM F/W 2016
For their latest F/W collection, label SIKI IM dug deep. Very deep. Deep in thoughts, deep in spirits, deep into philosohpy. Numerous questions lie beneath their latest designs, such as the evaluation of monsters and vampires. Is death the end? According to SIKI IM, it is certainly not. Our fear of being alone, fear of rejection, yes, in the end, the fear of our very selves is also a part of the thought-out inspiration to the IM 2016/17 collection. Naturally, these objections transfer themselves onto the clothing. A color palette of black, oxblood and aubergine draws a very clear allusion to mythic, spiked-teeth creatures. Fabrics from Italy are textured and rich, meaning luxurious cashmere (this season's material No. 1) and pants, woolen car-coats and blazers are combined with architectural leather in a variety of shapes. Furry tops and bottoms are not only monstrous in a good way but also functional for a cold winter. Along with the new designs, SIKI IM also showcases its extension line DEN IM. The prints featured in this collection were inspired by the German art and architecture school Bauhaus and the eponymous post-punk band. Linking both collections, images from Im's favorite Vampire movies were also printed on various garments. In the end, who isn't fascinated by it? The mysterious, the mythical, the dangerous, the tragic? We all have it in us. Just a matter of time until the night will let it out.
Lala Berlin: Persian Queen Goes Berlin Vol. 2
If you want to do it right, do it twice. Leyla Piedayesh, designer of Lala Berlin, made her latest F/W 16 collection stand out even more in presenting it twice – in two completely different places. Even though the collection's theme is “Persian Queen Goes Berlin”, the designer chose to host her runway show at Copenhagen Fashion Week. As a matter of course, Piadayesh did not neglect her hometown. At Berlin Fashion Week, she had already presented the collection with a special mirror installation and an exclusive film. In the now following classic runway show, the “Persian Queen” went for a strut down the catwalk clad in designs that were inspired by ancient cultures – two in particular. The antique Persian town Persepolis performed a major inspiration to Piedayesh. Animal and fairytale statues are reflected in print motifs while oriental elements are a nod to the designer's background. On another note, they also contrast with the collection's modern and street style vibe, formed by 3-D High-Low knitwear, a variety of outerwear and one-shoulder silhouettes. Asymetrical cuts and diagonal cutlines are playfully used to create a glamourous look that could also survive in fast-paced Berlin. To be fair, if Leyla Piedayesh's Persian Queen would enter Berlin, we're certain everyone would slow down for her. Anything else would be too much of a miss.
Givenchy Men's F/W 16 & Couture S/S 16
At the latest Givenchy presentation, viewers found themselves caught somewhere between a game of Tetris and the inside of a gum bubble. In Paris, the French fashion house chose to reveal both their menswear designs for F/W 16 and the couture designs for SS 16 in one captivating show. Ricardo Tisci's theme for this collection apparently was freedom, which he chose to express in a variety of designs that weren't at all as monochrome as the seating. For the menswear, Tisci alternated between sharp silhouettes with classic outerwear and more layered, colorful designs. Cobra-flagged knitwear was seen next to tribal inspirations and fringed coats; embellished collars on jackets and coats went along with college sweaters and pinstripe combinations. The couture marked a welcome contrast to all that. Sheer dresses had their parts as much as expressive dotted designs. Lace and other thin materials gave the collection a soft touch, whereas tight bandeaus in a wrapped style suggested a confident couture look. For his latest presentation, Ricardo Tisci's bubble might have been pink as gum, but we sure do enjoy it in there.
Diesel Black Gold SS16 Ad Campaign
Diesel Black Gold has revealed their new SS16 advertising campaign, a call to he brand’s irreverent and contemporary spirit. French photographer Karim Sadli shot models Lexi Boling and Timur Muharemovic in Downtown Los Angeles, a urban and metropolitan location that fits the collection like a glove. Conceived by Creative Director Andreas Melbostad, the campaign presents key pieces such as the Type 2614 extra-long jeans, a design that through its exaggerated length creates a crushed effect, worn by Muharemovic. Boling meanwhile sports the season’s signature overalls and a leather jacket detailed with metal grommets and whipstitches. With this campaign, Diesel shows once again that it doesn’t take much to impress. If only it would be so easy for everyone.
Sandro F/W 16
For a fashion designer, a collection can be like a play. Different actors, different looks, different parts of the play – in other words, acts. French fashion label Sandro took this as a chance to divide their latest collection, their play, if you will, into such different acts. The first one throws it way back to 1980s Berlin, where anarchical urban structures drained romance through the industrializing reality. This message translated into fabric calls for a denim jacket pattern realized with suede, combined with yellow rollneck jumpers. Act two introduces a series of silk shirts, emblazoned with a chain print, to be worn with tapered trousers that are cut off at the ankle and feature a generous hem. A theatrical play would maybe suggest a break by now, but Sandro dives right into the final act: suits with wider collars break on boots and are complemented with black-and-wide check motifs on mohair knits. As the curtain falls, the label presents the last look formed by leather trousers and long cashmere coats in a variety of colors. Applause!
Giorgio Armani Privé Couture SS16
Giorgio Armani is defying gravity. With his latest couture collection for Armani Privé, the designer mounted on a cloud of silk and organza and casually flew away. Ruffles define the new designs along with flowing silhouettes, corresponding to the illusion of constant movement. They suggest waves, like the sea stirred by the wind, an expression that is even found in the fashion show’s hairstyles. While the first part of the collection transfers these ideas into business-like ensembles, the finale is formed by a collection of ball gowns that illustrate the idea of a contemporary, high-class princess. Key colors in this collection are a variety of lilacs, supporting a young and soft attitude. Seems like Armani’s cloud is a pretty nice place. And whatever it takes, we will get on there, too.
ODEUR F/W 16/17
ODEUR’s designers Petter Hollström and Gorjan Lauseger once again showcased a dramatic yet relaxed collection. Exactly just how they pull it off is their trade secret, but for FW 16/17 they have once again struck proverbial gold in black and white. Hints of Yves Klein blue and boxy black an white patterns livened up the epic battle of night and day, good vs. evil. ODEUR’s pieces are inherently Nordic cool; each one ready for an impromptu street style photograph without trying to hard. Crisp, layered shirts paired with cropped bottoms and oversized sweaters sound overwhelming. Here they just work. Men in tunics and dresses? Sounds costume-y, but oh boy does it work. The sporty unisex designs live off of their restraint, and work on both the male and female form, never overpowering the model or being vulgar. For FW16/17 ODEUR once again managed to add to the timeless cool kid uniform.
Philomena Zanetti F/W 16/17
There are a lot of places to escape our busy everyday life. Sunny beaches or abandoned southern islands, for example. Julia Seifert, lead designer of Philomena Zanetti, opted for an alternative. Her latest designs, presented at Berlin Fashion Week, are inspired by the coastal landscapes of Ireland. Naturally, the collection thus fuses shades of grey, green and brown. Soft silhouettes and cocoon-like cuts shield the wearer from the increasing pace of everyday life and suggest comfort by reflecting on the serenity of nature. Now, whenever booking the next weekend escape, you might consider the Green Island instead of a southern one. It could be just as comforting.
Paul Smith F/W 16/17
As a designer, Paul Smith is fond of the past. The days and decades that are long gone are an everlasting inspiration to him, and with each collection, Smith manages to transform the spirit of “back then” into a fashion statement applicable to today. For the Fall/Winter menswear collection, Smith once again embraced his past and wove it into new designs. Stripes recur in cashmere knitwear of tailored coats and find their sartorial climax in more-than-elegant lurex pinstripes. Paul Smith, though, never designs without a bit of cheekiness: Dinosaur prints reference his use of digital printing, while lip-shaped fastenings on belts and peace sign charms are a link to the free spirit of the late-60s and early-70s. Fun aside, this collection's centerpiece introduces itself in multiple ways: the Epscom coat comes with sheepskin and cashmere and both single and double-breasted. Combined with often flared trousers and heeled leather boots, the “throwback” is complete. Now that we think about it, saying that Paul Smith is just fond of the past might be quite the understatement. He adores it. And we do, too.
Dorothee Schumacher FW 16/17
Schumacher’s FW 16/17 collection is clearly inspired by Stacy Perlata and his Z-Boys and Bones Brigade, the laid-back and most of all free attitude of late subculture. The label has been around for years, rooted in commercial chic and has so far been renowned for business attire. In the latest offering juxtapositions of smart and casual, freedom and roots are painstakingly obvious. For Dorothee Schumacher skater gear element mixed in with romantic florals and classic cuts appear audacious at first. However, dissonance creates interest in the most positive of ways: Bermuda shorts with suspenders paired with delicate blouses, sporty stripes on mixed mille fleur, baggy pants and glitter shirts, stern woolen coats covering romantic dresses carry the Schumacher DNA over to 2016. Folklore-esque garter belts, cutouts and transparency add a youthful layer to the designs. The cherry atop this show was certainly the music by the late David Bowie that set the mood for the show.
Larusmiani F/W 16/17
“The secret of a real man’s style lies in knowing the rules as well as breaking them”. Larusmiani thinks back to founder Gugliemo Miani’s wise words as inspiration for their F/W 16/17 collection. In fact, it is not only inspiration, but key essence to the new Italian designs. Handmade suits are made from fine fabrics such as wool, cashmere and silk – with the twist of occasional blends. Impeccable shirts with embroidered initials are available in cotton flannel and cashmere or printed silk as recognition of the modern and the traditional. Ties with geometric patterns only take a few seconds to be chosen by their wearer. Shoes emphasize the mantra of knowing the rules as well as breaking them: the beaver fur-lined sneaker stands next to the Larusmiani Oxford shoe. Altogether, the collection composes a relaxed Dandy attitude for the Larusmiani man. And to him, we’d sure like to be introduced.
Costume National Homme Fall Collection
The world is under pressure. The fashion world is under pressure. At least according to Ennio Capasa. The lead designer of Costume National took the occurring dangers and threats of our world as an inspiration for his new Fall collection. The result is an assemblage of combat elements, couture bits and both uniform and freedom. With these designs, Capasa also wants to rekindle his connection to music. Quite literally referring to pressure, Capasa found muses in David Bowie and Freddie Mercury and their collaborative hit “Under Pressure”. Now, what does one do to resist? Costume National delivers the perfect gear. Combat multi pocket trousers make for a well-equipped look, squared shoulder jackets and oversize coat create an invincible silhouette and fabrics from faux fur to glitter print show that “fear” is not in store for Costume National. Colors balance between tones from black and navy to shiny greens and neon turquoise. It’s only the brand name that seems unfitting in this collection. This definitely isn’t a costume. It’s an armour.
FENDI F/W Collection 2016
With their latest menswear collection, Fendi went luxurious-but-soft. Or casual-but-elegant. Playful-but-stylish. However you define it, the new collection oozes a feeling of private luxury. The silhouette is soft and comfortable, which helps the wearer glide through the urban frenzy without bumping shoulders. In general, outerwear has found a new, welcoming roominess at Fendi. Knitwear makes us feel like home, with long and loose jumpers keeping warm and droopy scarves draped around the neck. With Fendi, it’s not loneliness but “homeliness” that awaits us: the garments have a relaxed ease; comic strip elements add humor and character. Stolen plaid pieces add a visual rhythm when fused on knitted pieces and felted wool tailoring. Another key element is sheepskin, used in the making of bucket hats and shoppers. It might be “luxurious-but-soft” or “playful-but-stylish”, but actually, with this collection, there are no “buts” needed.
Persian Queen goes Berlin: Lala Berlin at Fashion Week
Berlin Fashion Week whizzed by in a second, but Leyla Piedayesh was there to capture the moment. With her new “Persian Queen goes Berlin” collection, the designer established the connection of live experiences with online content. At Berlin’s meCollectors room, surrounded by celebrities from the music, fashion and acting scene, Piedayesh presented a special video installation with strong visuals. Director Jonas Lindstroem filmed three characters, embodied by model Lina Berg, 12-year-old Louise Constein and Anna von Rueden. In support of the video, Piedayesh also went to search for inspiration in the realms of upcoming German music. Singer Jasper Munk supported the videos with his sounds and was present for a set of 3 acoustic songs at the event. To make the evening even more interactive, the label invented the InstaShoot, a creation to let fans from allover the world take part in the experience with the help of an exclusive mirror installation titled “Mirror Me”. According to Piedayesh, instagram has revolutionized the fashion world and is an important source of inspiration and creativity to her. 3, 2, 1, smile!
Peuterey Studio Collection F/W 16
How to stand out from the crowd is an infinite question. It applies to almost every field of work, of entertainment, of culture. Nevertheless, with their latest collection, Peuterey took on exactly that question. In fact, they question a lot in the fashion business. Along with Federico Curradi's debut designs, the brand has released a movement of “realitytelling”, as opposed to the ongoing frenzy that fashion can sometimes cause. The new Peuterey man is a thinker, a maker, a creator, who is not afraid to get his hands dirty to achieve his goals. Behind this lies a concept of truly deep thoughts – with the goal to highlight two main things: authenticity and purposefulness. Fashion, according to Peuterey, should not be fast, selfish and attention seeking, but should satisfy and be useful to the person wearing it, to let them be theirselves in the best possible way. Therefore, the new collection underlines a promising message of utility to its wearer: parkas and blousons are being rethought with new fabrics, overcoats and duffels have straps to be repurposed into rucksacks and blazers can be used in multiple ways. Patch pockets not only suggest real utility but work as accessories in more ways than one. Classic fabrics are intersected with double-faced, technical and diagonal wools, nylon and gabardine. The color palette comes across as somber, with 50ies inspired accents: charcoal, rust and military greens. If after all, this sounds way too utilitarian to you, don't despair. Purposefulness never meant going out of style. Authenticity never meant being unfashionable. For reference, have a look at Peuterey again.
JIL SANDER Men’s Fall/Winter 2016
London Men’s Fashion Week saw a lot of collections being devoted to the motives of protection, uniformity and military. In Milan, a few designers also presented their take on this theme, JIL SANDER being one of them. By itself, their F/W 16 collection is not a pure military reminiscence, but a metropolitan version of it. There are harnesses crossing the bust but also tailored jackets and capes. The protective effect is certainly shown with voluminous parkas edged in velvet, but bare arms under sleeveless vests also suggest vulnerability. There are ribbed jumpers with patched shoulders, but also city maps on silk shirts, blown into abstract proportion. For a both innovative and strict line like JIL SANDER, it would be too easy to go down the simple line of military inspiration. Even mixing it with urbanity would be insufficient. That’s the twist of JIL SANDER: making simple clothing backed by complex inspiration. Nevertheless: if you wear it, you’ll feel protected, but not shielded. You’re still a metropolitan.
Prada F/W 16 Show
In Milan, the sails were set as Prada models left the backstage harbour and took to the catwalk clad in a broad variety of looks, which were almost all adorned with the nautical accessory of a sailor hat. For the rest of the collection though, Miuccia Prada and her team stayed onshore: a special dedication was made to the fabric prints, which were defined by a collaboration with Berlin-based artist Christophe Chemin. Chemin is a versatile artist and has devoted his work to multiple forms of art, ranging from installations, to novels, to pencil drawings. For Prada, he now exclusively created a selection of prints. Furthermore, the designs form a blend of remarkable outerwear and calmer garments created in earthy colors. Oval-shapes and enormous collars add complexity to this collection, with female models on the other hand also presenting bodyline designs that are teamed up with velvet heels for very feminine looks among the men’s designs. Still, as the nautical reference fades within the looks, we can’t help but notice that little head stealing the show. Sail, Prada!
Prada Women’s Spring Summer 16 Campaign
Just one week after the release of their latest menswear campaign, defined by vulnerability and relaxed attitudes, Prada has revealed the visuals for the matching womenswear campaign. Steven Meisel shot models Natalia Vodianova, Sasha Pivovarova and Yasmin Wijnaldum indoors in New York. With an equally relaxed attitude as their male counterparts, the three women define undone elegance and a toned-down femininity while still oozing sensuality. As far as that, the attitude is the only thing that comes across as relaxed in this campaign. For the garments, Prada experiments with layering decades of the past to refigure them into modernity. If all, one could define it as conservative eccentricity. The traditional mixed with the contemporary – a blend that has worked well for the Italian fashion house in the past. Nevertheless, they take on new steps with disoriented materials and subversive tailoring. One is uncertain if with Prada, we’re in the past, the present or the future. Another look at the campaign will give you the answer: if anyone can transcend the measure of time, it’s Prada.
Joseph F/W 2016 Collection
You might think urbanity and aristocracy wouldn’t go together all too well. Joseph is here to prove you wrong. The British fashion label presented its bedazzling F/W collection at last weekend’s London Collections: Men with the pursuit of establishing everyday classics modernized by individuality and personality. That’s why the creative minds behind Joseph mixed seventies silhouettes with elements of 90s indie style and heritage colors with shocking tangerine. Naturally, this was not enough. The sky is the limit for the Joseph vision: inside out knitted tracksuits are worn with loafers whereas a camel chesterfield coat finds its partner in a slouchy flare. The Joseph man loops heritage with urban vibes and takes the stage in a nonchalant and precise, instinctive and considered attitude. To achieve that, English fabrics are key. You are what you wear, and if you’re the Joseph man, you’re wearing tweed and cashmere, poplin shirting and velvet. Welcome to the aristocracy, Sir. The urban one, of course.
Casely-Hayford: Irregimental Youth F/W 16
London Collections: Men last weekend was all about protection. Uniformity and regalia seem to have been an ongoing inspiration in multiple collections, whether referenced subtly or interpreted with full-on dedication. Design duo Casely-Hayford has taken on this omnipresent inspiration to focus on British subcultures old and new. The concept sounds complex: appropriating establishment uniformity to create anti-establishment individualism. The result are references from the early 60s, like the Beatles’ psychedelic “Sergeant Pepper” album cover, to the use of military clothing by today’s Hip Hop favorites. To throw in some more edge, the father and son duo also incorporated elements from the Skinhead and 90’s rave culture. For the accessories, Casely-Hayford collaborated with American shoe brand Sperry to combine the roots of craftsmanship and modern sportswear. A key item is the hybrid of boat shoe and creeper, performing a split between past Teddy boys and today’s sportswear modernists. Nevertheless, military stays the driving force in this particular collection. Hand embroidered regimental elements are being reimagined in MA1-jackets. Oversized nylon coats come in the essential military green and not only make for a big appearance – but also protect. Because that is what it’s all about. It’s on!
Tiger Of Sweden Men's FW 16
It’s back to the roots for Tiger of Sweden. The brand has mentally retreated to their Swedish base for the FW 16 collection, presented last weekend at London Collections: Men. Supported by the sounds of Swedish band Wheeping Willows, Tiger of Sweden presented 35 multifaceted looks that were equally inspired by Swedish traditions and cold northern winters. The designers focused on the Dalarna region, which is equally as known for its botanic artwork which subsequently also became an inspiration for the collection. Continuing the process of adapting old traditions to modern looks, Swedish artist Jacob Krajcik exclusively reworked the colors of pressed flowers to create a modern folk design. Still, the collections color palette stays rather opaque. Black and grey dominate, with splashes of color coming in soft and seldom. However, the collection’s heart piece is a pair of tuxedos: slim cut, single – and double-breasted and shimmering in a soft peach and apricot. Whether it’s the unqiue culture, the special craftwork or just the warmth given in a cold winter – Tiger of Sweden has shown us that indeed, home is where the heart is.
COACH Men’s Fall 2016
That’s a wrap! The weekend has whizzed by and the presentations at London Collections: Men Fashion Week are already over. Once again, designers were ready to present their latest, exciting designs packed in a tight show schedule. Among these was New York brand COACH, who filled their catwalk with the impressive spirit of the American Dream – but also of everyday life. Finding the heroic in that - everyday life - was the collection’s central intention. Thus the brand presented a curation of cult wardrobe pieces with details driven by the thought of utility. Nevertheless, Creative Director Stuart Vevers added a more fashionable twist by blowing up proportions to an almost cartoonish size. Furry coats, parkas and jackets come in an oversized shape to be paired with essential pleated trousers. The cherry on top comes in form of some ironic accessories: small dinosaurs front the bags, waving their claws at the admirer. COACH FW 16 is all about embracing the authenticity and character that comes from imperfection. Just like we experience everyday life. Well, maybe minus dinosaurs.
Bottega Veneta: The Art of Collaboration SS16
Bottega Veneta has taken us to quite the special exhibition space in their latest SS16 visuals. Consisting of a short film and photos, the campaign was shot by Dutch photographer Viviane Sassen in the sculpture gardens of the Kröller-Müller Museum in The Netherlands. Models Mica Arganaraz and Sven DeVries playfully wander about Jean Dubuffet’s sculpture “Jardin d’émail”, taking in the world around them. The showcased collection features colorful designs in both womens- and menswear. Shiny red tones and detailed prints define the designs for Her, while He stays casual with outdoor- and streetwear inspirations. These inspirations can also be traced in Sassen’s photography. As a photographer, the artist prefers to shoot outside. For this campaign, she focused on contrast, color and texture. As a result, the models turn into performing sculptures, creating instant art in the sculpture garden. Sassen is not the first to shoot a campaign for Bottega’s Art of Collaborations. It was instituted as a creative partnership between the brand’s Creative Director Tomas Maier and renowned artists such as Nan Goldin, Peter Lindbergh and Juergen Teller. We’ll be excited for the next one.
David Bowie Shares Video for “Lazarus”
Bedridden, haunted, possessed: music icon David Bowie has released the video for his new single “Lazarus” prior to the release of his new album “Blackstar”, out January 8th. In the video, the singer is shown in bed in what appears to be a psychic ward. While wearing a tight blindfold, Bowie moves around the bed frantically while mouthing the lyrics. “Look up here man, I’m in danger”, he sings, “I’ve got nothing left to lose”. Later on, Bowie hints at his past days when shown in a striped full-on bodysuit while convulsively writing in a notebook. At the end of the video, Bowie retreats to a closet, seeming to have lost his mind. Resigning, his last lines are: “Oh, I’ll be free, ain’t that just like me”. January 8th will not only mark the release date of the artist’s 25th studio album, but also his 69th birthday. Watch the video for "Lazarus" below.
Woolrich News & FW 16 Collection
The new year sparks big changes at traditional label Woolrich. Not only is the brand launching and revolutionizing its own products, but has some ambitious plans and changes in store. Regarding fashion, the two main themes for the FW 16 season are Technology and NoFur. For the latter, Woolrich underwent a nearly monumental change: the iconic Arctic Parka is released without the use of fur. The garment stays functional, but is revamped with a new hood design and color. Functionality is also highlighted in Woolrich’s cooperation with GORE-TEX, an icon in weatherproof clothing. The cooperation culminated in the relaunch of the “Mountain” parka and jacket. All of this happens in the realm of Woolrich label “Teton”, which features the brands Outdoor Technical Capsule Collection. And as if that wouldn’t suffice, Woolrich as a brand is headed for a worldwide market: the brand’s mother company “WP Lavori in Corso” presented an ambitious five-year plan that includes Woolrich Europe as an influencer for European and Asian markets as well as an expansion to 68 European stores until 2020. Now, that’s a motivated start to a new year!
Jaguar / Land Rover Opens New Boutique in Munich
Have you ever shopped a car like you shopped a pair of shoes? We didn't think so. The new Jaguar & Land Rover boutique in Munich, Germany, allows you to do so. Opening its doors just this week, the 250 square metre shop lets customers experience both boutiques and rides on a whole new level. Located on the Odeonsplatz in the pulsating Munich city centre, the location hosts varying vehicle exhibitions and provides the Jaguar and Land Rover merchandise. Customers are invited to dive further and further into the brand world of Jaguar & Land Rover. This world can also be experienced in a multimedia programme: like in a recipe, you can customize your car by picking the various equipment to your liking. All of this is completed by a vast program of events: Land Rover experience tours, the Jaguar Driving Academy as well as humanitary projects make the "car shopping“ a lifestyle-plan on its own. And, if after all, you're not completely lost on the road, the Tea - & Coffe-Bar is there to invigorate an extensive shopping trip. Enjoy the ride!
Givenchy Launches SS 16 Campaign
New York, I love you! This declaration has become the inspiration for Ricardo Tisci’s latest Givenchy creation. The Spring/Summer 2016 campaign is his personal “Love card” to the city. Shot by Mert & Marcus in, of course, Manhattan, the campaign indeed focuses on love and our personal relationships. Following the three main messages Love, Gang and Family, the imagery features group photos of both new faces and Givenchy veterans. Clustered under the Manhattan sky, they present signature black & white looks with timeless elements such as lace and pinstripes. And, to reference love again, each picture is decorated with a handwritten quote by singer Anohni: “I am a child on the river and love waits downstream, a waterfall to steal my breath and change my mind”. Ricardo, we love you, too.
Beth Ditto & Jean Paul Gaultier Introduce Fashion Line
Courtesy of Beth Ditto/Jean Paul Gaultier
“I trust you”, Gossip singer Beth Ditto yelled at us in the song “Heavy Cross” a few years back. Now, she has put her trust into the fashion scene. The American chanteuse and French fashion designer Jean Paul Gaultier have teamed up for the debut of Ditto’s own plus size fashion line. The singer announced the collection on her instagram account, commenting that she was “psyched” to introduce the line with the designer collaboration. Alluding very much to an 80ies-Madonna-style, the first shirt to be released features a print of Gaultier’s iconic corset on the front and back, adorned with actual laces to tie on the backside. With this step into the fashion world, the singer follows her path as a model in runway shows for Gaultier in 2011 and Marc Jacobs this year. It’s safe to say that Beth, we trust you with this, too.
LOEWE FOUNDATION x Miami Beach Art Basel
What do a black cup, an oil painting and a chair made of legs have in common? They’re historical and contemporary art pieces, displayed in the exhibition “Chance Encounter”, hosted by the LOEWE FOUNDATION within the context of this year’s Miami Beach Art Basel. Curated by LOEWE’s very own creative director Jonathan Anderson, the exhibition evaluates the disruptive beauty of the chance encounter by creating unexpected conversations between the works of four British artists: Lucie Rie, Rose Wylie, Anthea Hamilton and Paul Nash. This set up will create new images, connect ideas and act as a convergence of past, present and future. A main point among these movements also is to give this art exchange time, as the exhibition is set to “slow things down”. “Chance Encounter” can be visited until January 17th at the LOEWE store in Miami’s Design District.
Review: Fashion Film Festival in Paris
Last week marked the 8th edition of fashion icon Diane Pernet’s festival “A Shaded View on Fashion Film”. The diversified event, abridged “ASVOFF”, was held for four days at Centre Pompidou in Paris and included a selection of 80 competitive short films. Guest of honor was fashion design legend Jean Paul Gaultier who was awarded a Carte Blanche and led the jury alongside Iris van Herpen, Colin McDowell and Nicolas Godin. Musical ensemble Chicks On Speed took the stage clad in colorful, sequined gowns for a powerful performance that sparked pleasure throughout the Centre. The festival featured again a variety of master class discussions, one focusing on film music with jury member Nicolas Godin and Nicolas Saada, who discussed their collaboration on the film “Taj Mahal.” Another special session was dedicated to the history of the Woolmark label. With new talents, big names and a collection of exciting visuals, the festival once again deserves an everlasting round of applause. Can’t wait for next year.
CHANEL 2016 Métiers d’Art Collection
Karl Lagerfeld united his favourite cities when he took took Paris to Rome to present the latest CHANEL Métiers d’Art Collection on Tuesday at the Cinecittà film studio No. 5. The Parisian setting oozed romance with thematic décor including nymphs, statues and café terraces, all referencing the work of the legendary Alexandre Trauner…altogether it seemed quite poignant in light of recent events though Lagerfeld’s vision for this show preceded the November attacks. Sooty eyes and unfussy Bardot bouffants added a sultry undertone to the slouchy layered looks of knits, leather and black lace – all topped off with classic CHANEL pointed courts. Magical.
UNAIDS’ ProTESTHIV Turns One Tomorrow with an Exclusive Collection of Tees
Since its launch last year, the UNAIDS campaigners behind ProTESTHIV, have pledged to raise awareness of HIV testing on a global scale, in the hope of ultimately eradicating the deadly virus by 2030.
In marking World AIDS Day tomorrow (December 1) and as part of this campaign, a collection of five unique T-shirts will be released on sale. The contemporary artists FUTURA, André, Dustin Yellin, Scott Campbell and Aersoyn-Lex have exclusively designed the tops, visually tackling an internationally unavoidable subject.
ZOO has the exclusivity to give away a selection of tees. What to do? Be creative with one of our current covers and send your creation to email@example.com, or easily purchase the extremely limited edition collection in the concept stores Goodhood (London), STORM (Copenhagen), Colette (Paris), 290 Square Meters (Amsterdam) and Soto (Berlin), with all proceeds going to UNAIDS…At 50€ per tee that must be the definition of money well spent.
All for a Good Cause
In support of the rainforest charity, Cool Earth, this winter sees Dame Vivienne Westwood and Andreas Kronthaler team up with British restaurant Aqua Shard to design and create a magnificent 18-foot Christmas Tree. Decorated with beautiful festive beading that has been crafted by a women’s cooperative in the Awajún community, it will be adorned also with vibrant garlands of “tuju” and “huayruro” seeds to symbolise good fortune and abundance. Emphasizing the significance of protecting the rainforest, the sustainably sourced tree will then be covered in an ethereal cocoon of lace and stand in front of a beautiful London skyline backdrop.
Accompanying this extravagant creation, Aqua Shard will be selling limited edition, uniquely wrapped chocolate made from the cacao gathered by Peru’s Asháninka communities, an extra-special chocolate desert and an exclusive Johnnie Walker Blue Label cocktail. This is all to raise money for Cool Earth, the charity whose award-winning model is so efficient, that in working with local indigenous communities they now have more rainforest under their protection than any other NGO or government.
To purchase a Vivienne Westwood x Cool Earth chocolate bar, please visit www.aquashardblog.co.uk/viviennewestwood
Beginning today is the 19th edition of the exceptional photography fair, Paris Photo. Held in the Grand Palais it brings together 147 prestigious, international galleries in a celebration of the photographic medium. Curated by the official partners of Paris Photo, several intriguing exhibitions will highlight the world’s most impressive photography projects, from already established artists and exciting emerging talent. Alongside these will be the conversational “Platform”, the “Private Collection” exhibition welcoming Italian collector Enea Righi, whilst the 4th edition of the Photobook Awards will acknowledge 3 projects out of 1000 submissions!
New to this year’s fair is “PRISMES”, an exhibition supported by Giorgio Armani, which promotes out of the ordinary series from photographers such as Daido Moryama, Paul Graham and Stephan Schenk. Not only this, but the novel “BOOK MACHINE” will run – an initiative bringing together the newest photographic talent with public participants through the creation of books…whether you are an expert, an enthusiast, a collector or just a passer by, Paris Photo is worth exploring.
The Paris Photo fair is held at the Grand Palais, Paris, from November 12-15, 2015.
Today at Gucci sees creative director Alessandro Michele lead the way in celebrating the “short circuit” of cultural references, in particular the one regarding traditional heritage versus contemporary developments. Perfectly representative of this is the fashion house’s new prints, Gucci Blooms and Gucci Caleido, as they feature a novel floral/geometric motif that is placed over the signature GG design.
In further exploring the evolution of the iconic Gucci pattern, the label has launched #GucciGram, an online project inviting international image-makers and illustrators to contribute original artworks incoporating the Gucci Blooms and Gucci Caleido motifs. The result of this is a Pop-cultural explosion of different ideas, opinions, messages and mediums offered up by both established names, such as Kalen Hollomon and Noah Kalina, as well as freshly emerging talent such as Chris Rellas. These intriguing, and often amusing, artworks will feature on Gucci’s social media channels and the site listed below.
Grimes Releases New Video from forthcoming “Art Angels”
Blood drenched, purple wigged, Renaissance dressed Grimes has just let loose her self-directed video for “Flesh Without Blood”/ “Life in the Vivid Dream”. This is taken from her forthcoming album, “Art Angels”, which will be available digitally from November 4 on 4AD. A fully solo venture, as all of Grimes’ previous albums, she plays piano, guitar and even violin throughout the album. Impressed? It gets better, as this record also contains the largest amount of live instrumentation than any of her earlier ones, as well as including collaborations with Janelle Monáe and fresh-faced newcomer, Taiwanese rapper Aristophanes.
With her European headline tour kicking off next Spring in Brixton, London, you even have enough time to learn all the lyrics. Get excited!
Since Absolut Vodka became active within the art world over thirty years ago, the liquor giant has collaborated with more than 600 artists and worked on around 900 commissioned works worldwide. 2014 saw the brand extend to create the currently Stockholm-based Absolut Art – an online platform dedicated to establishing the value of art in everyday life to be as important as music. In banishing the intimidating confines of museum walls, the site opens up the world of art collecting to the public and bridges the gap between artist and appreciator.
In perfect timing for Christmas, Absolut Art are launching Germany’s own version of the site with expertly and locally curated artworks from over 40 selected German artists, such as Gregor Hildebrandt, Paul McDevitt and Stef Heidhues. With the site constantly updating, there are artworks of all types to be discovered on the coming website and added to your office or home.
November, 2015, sees the launch of the Absolut Art German website along with the “Absolute Art Apartment popup Experience”, a series of accompanying events held in Berlin, which are yet to be announced.
Official Paris Photo Partner, Giorgio Armani presents ACQUA#6
As part of this year’s Paris Photo, to which Giorgio Armani became an official partner back in 2011, the designer will be presenting the sixth installment of his “ACQUA” exhibitions. It seems that the earthly element has provided him with a constant source of inspiration and not only for his fashion expedites but for his civic duty as well. Armani began the “Acqua for Life” project with the Green Cross International several years ago, which has since provided millions of liters of drinking water to communities in need, primarily in Ghana and Bolivia.
Now, amidst 140 exhibiting galleries hosted at the Grand Palais, all offering historical and contemporary photographic artworks, is ACQUA#6 “Reflecting on Water”. The annual exhibition sees various photographic conceptualizations of “water” from young and emerging artists, as chosen by Armani. This year, Lucien Clergue and Lee Friedlander are among those participating, whilst Noémie Goudal’s “Observatoire X” provides its official photo.
Twice Light – New York
In marking the occasion of the 2015 NY Design Week, Italian artist Gianluca Vassallo conducted his photographic social project: Twice Light. Travelling around the city, the “one to watch” in his field of current emerging contemporary designers, Vassallo studied the relational impact of placing two strangers under a light for a full minute. This was with the aim of temporarily uniting them and thus forming small communities, whilst visually creating an extraordinary profile of New York.
These communities may have only lasted for a brief period, but the “Twice as Twiggy” lamp used throughout the project and erected in various public spaces in the city, is proving to be around for a lot longer. This is after achieving global success as a novel icon of interior design. Influenced by the plasticity of a fishing rod, the floor lamp was created in 2006 by Marc Sadler for the lighting company Foscarini, who now offer an enlarged version lighting up large spaces.
The “Twice Light – New York” exhibition, containing 120 images presented under the Twice as Twiggy lamp, is currently on show at the Spazio Soho, New York.
Casadei Spring/Summer 2016: A New Odyssey
Hitting the stores in late October and only 20 days after the press review, Casadei are breaking the rules with their upcoming New Odyssey capsule collection. Taking inspirations from the shapes and styles of the sixties, the clean lines of 2001 Space Odyssey and the desires of a modern-day Casadei woman, this season at the Italian-footwear label is a fusion of past and present. A monochrome contrast engulfing boots, Mary Janes, ankle boots and sandals, the elegant line carries just the right amount of drama with subtle hints of silvered leather incorporated in its sleek designs. This timeless collection marks the beginning of a whole new chapter for Casadei, who will release the lines Graphic Cuts, Young Jewels and Bright Colors in later months to provide a shoe for every mood of the urban woman, be it contemporary or eclectic.www.casadei.com
Akris Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
This season in Paris saw Albert Kriemler enlist Sou Fujimoto, a Japanese architect, in creating innovative fabrics for his latest collection. You’ll get no prizes for guessing which theme the collection was made in respect to: architecture.
The usually, ultra minimal effect of Kriemler’s vision was spruced up somewhat with these textured fabrics and insistent peeping window holes featured on tunic tops and dresses. Geometric lines cut across asymmetric shapes amidst a wealth of fine tailoring and chic silhouettes. Altogether, this made for a modernistic collection unusual to Kriemler’s typical approach.
Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
It seems as if Sarah Burton has relaxed somewhat in the current season at Alexander McQueen. The intimate collection showed Burton to get familiar with McQueen’s ancestral roots, in drawing her inspiration from the 17th-century Spitalfields silk weavers, who settled in the East End of London after fleeing religious persecution in France.
An elegant assortment of lace and ruffles formed a long, slim silhouette on models, who wore chandelier earrings with their hair loosely pinned back. Dramatic chained body jewelry added a stab of McQueen grit to the gracefully feminine collection.
Valentino Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
There is a powerful message behind the latest Valentino Collection from Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli. Their inarguably beautiful collection of bold prints and delicate patterns presents a fusion of cultures between Italy and Africa.
Braided hair, ethnic inspired jewelry and a palette of strong, vibrant colors appear in conjunction with ruched dresses, studded detailing and leather patchwork reminiscent of the Roman Empire.
No doubt people will question the ethical appropriation of the show… However, with the ongoing refugee crisis we hope that people will take something positive away from it and see the beauty of cross-culture, as Chiuri and Piccioli intended.
Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
The film “Picnic at Hanging Rock” has provided Raf Simons with a great source of inspiration with this collection for Christian Dior. The ultra feminine line, pleasing to dedicated Dior fans everywhere, was packed with white Victorian-style ruffles, shapes and necklines.
With neckscarves and brooches reading with “1947”, Simons has once again got nostalgic for the monumental New Look collection of that year and incorporated relaxed interpretations of classic, rigid lines into this collection. Adding a splash of contemporary androgyny Simons throws in some chunky knitwear and tailored suits.
Vetements Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
Now in their fourth season, Vetements are no longer the new kids on the block. This collective of young designers who are proving the power of friendship are now also winners of the LVMH Designer Prize. Their latest collection pushes the irrelevance of gender and depicts the ultimate expression of cool.
Making a return to the catwalk are their signature gigantically proportioned suits, this time with dramatic splits up trouser legs and appearing in striking blues and oranges. Jacquard sweaters, Star Wars wide-leg trousers and thigh high boots emblazoned with the Vetements name are taken together to reinforce alternative, youth culture within the context of Parisian fashion.
Studio Chérie, Berlin
One of the city’s favorite shooting locations, the Chérie Studios are two professional rental studios for photography and events located in Berlin Neuköln, or the city’s prime art district.
Formerly a confectionary factory, the two industrial lofts offer a unique charm and atmosphere to their 350msq of creative space, with studio 1 including a 6x6m double infinity curve (cyclorama). Chérie Studios also provide their clients with a full production service that involves photography, set styling and catering.
Gagosian Gallery presents Urs Fischer: Fountains
Artist Urs Fischer (b.1973) is in constant search of sculptural solution, envisaging and producing objects undergoing psychic transformation in an extraordinary number of materials, whilst injecting his own, sardonic sense of humor into his works.
The current collection is based around functional fountains, or “active sculptures”, transforms galleries into humid and animated places. After being built from hand-made clay models, lumpen fountains are cast in bronze, with one taking the formation of a flowing garden hose pipe draped over a human skeleton, which is arched across a chair… Needless to say, this is an example of Fischer’s lexicon of darkly humorous “vanitas”.
Obscure paintings surround the fountains inside the galleries, with a dramatically abstracted photographic image of Fischer’s own face as each one’s background. These images contrast representational systems with different cosmic orders.
Urs Fischer: Fountains will exhibit at the Gagosian Gallery, Los Angeles, until October 17, 2015.
Sergio Rossi Spring/Summer 2016 Collection
Consolidating the label’s partnership with Bianca Brandolini d’Adda, Angelo Ruggeri has named her as a main source of inspiration for his current, Bohemian chic Sergio Rossi collection.
In having a vintage moment with the Italian footwear brand, classic 1970s clogs are reworked into wedges that display intricate patterns contrasting the rich appearances of wood and cork. Ruggeri contrasts these chunky shapes with delicate stilettos and flats, whilst also creating a stylistic juxtaposition between day and night; eccentricity and minimalism. The line, exuding Summer and optimism, is realized in a mainly neutral palette with a multicolor camouflage effect adding excitement. With the adoption of strings, embroidered thread and crochet patterns in the unique designs, we are left with a beautiful collection embodying creativity and femininity.
Versace Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
Refuting the retro looks we are seeing all over Milan at the moment, Donatella Versace is making a stand for her name and bringing back sexy into the world of fashion.
Her beautifully tailored army jackets and waistcoats that cinch into the waist with a Versace crested belt are teamed with chunky platform sandals and pulled up khaki socks to ooze sex appeal and her feeling of the moment; female empowerment.
Then come the snakeskin effect fabrics, the camo-meets-animal print, the sheer shirts and slit skirts. Donatella is defiant in her vision of Versace… And it proves to be iconic.
Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
In his third season at the label, Rodolfo Paglialunga has reworked the classic Jil Sander principles. Blazers are slashed, a coat deconstructed to embody an overlaying dress with the signature shirt cut and twisted into a new contemporary idea.
There is the odd flash of color, an asymmetric neckline and a vacant shoulder strap, with a buckle motif cropping up above the footwear and unexpectedly on silk dresses at the end of the show. The collection is undoubtedly minimalistic, as all Jil Sander should be.
Moschino Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
With a construction site as the backdrop, an actual car wash that sprayed bubbles and a road-runway, no prizes for guessing the whacky theme of the current season with Jeremy Scott, “carwash couture”.
Models were walking puns in safety-cone colors and equally outlandish roadwork themed accessories. In referencing a Chanel skirt suit in neon safety tape, the collection proved to be undeniably smart thinking… And as the show went on the looks got bigger. One was literally a ball of feathers with a model somewhere beneath (this being the “carwash” part).
The only cautionary part to this tale however is the rampage of Scott-fans that will ensue when this collection hits the shops… It seems the hard-hats are necessary after all.
N°21 Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
With this collection, Alessandro Dell’Acqua claims inspiration from 1920s Italian photographer/actress Tina Modotti and Corinne Day, a.k.a. the photographer responsible for some of the most iconic photos of the nineties.
An eighty-year gap means that the current N°21 line sees an avid mix of glamour and grunge. Models wearing jeweled headbands and ruffled chiffon are also wearing plain vests or t-shirts. Feathered slippers are worn over pulled-up socks. Florals, lace and python leather appear amongst deconstructed garments, shirts and dungarees… Dell’Acqua has created a clever mix of old and new and masculine and feminine with the current line of N°21.
Thomas Tait Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at LFW
At a first glance, the label’s latest collection seems somewhat odd. Look again and you cannot miss the relentless repetition of a spherical cutout motif, giving the collection many facets.
At times it is tribal, at other times, with the incorporation of A-Line dresses and flares, it is reminiscent of the retro sixties and seventies. In manipulating it into a geometrical pattern on jackets, it seems inspired by industrial design.
His choice of positioning the “peephole” motif in almost every location on the clothes creates a sense of what Tait deems “awkward intimacy”. Put all of these different perspectives of influence together and you are left with one unstoppable force of contemporary design.
MCQ Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at LFW
Rather than have a catwalk show this year at LFW, the label who pride themselves on supporting new creative talent have chosen to show a presentation of their current collection, through the eyes of three young emerging artists. Lea Colombo, Jack Davison and Sharna Osborne reimagined the line using character studies, detail shots and a sequence of short films.
The collection itself takes inspiration from a Post-Punk “No Wave” New York scene during the late seventies and early eighties. Refuting the mainstream sound at that time, this movement reflected strength and rebellion – perfect for MCQ Alexander McQueen.
The presentation was shown digitally on social channels and mcq.com and was set in Spitalfield’s Christ Church, the building that also provided the location for the legendary Alexander McQueen Fall/Winter 1996 Dante show.
Vivienne Westwood Red Label Spring/Summer Collection 2016 at LFW
Florals, midi skirts and the ruched dresses we know so well, Dame Vivienne Westwood has once again taken the conservative and stamped her bold print all over it. With dramatically smudged make up and face paint, one model carries a book with her down her walk in translucent sliders. Others are in perfectly prim dresses whilst wearing a harness over the top.
With a splash of tartan and the odd carbon-footprint-awareness top, Dame Vivienne Westwood sticks to her guns and creates another classic collection for the Red Label.
Loewe's Sneak Preview of Latest Campaign
To the delight of East Londeners, last Thursday saw LOEWE reveal a preview to their upcoming campaign on a digital billboard in Shoreditch, London. Coinciding with London Fashion Week, the preview confirms an ongoing collaboration between photographer Rudi Meisel and the fashion label.
One image presents Raquel Zimmerman in a Mount-Fuji style shot. With Benjamin Bruno as stylist, the image shows her in a contemporary, transparent look. Other images involve Meisel’s original self-portrait series and the brand’s popular Puzzle bag.
Lacoste Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at NYFW
With not one croc logo in sight, Portugese designer Felipe Oliveira Baptista continues to shake things up at Lacoste.
Beginning the show with a proud French palette of red, navy and white, Baptista goes on to include Olympian colored flags and refer to flags of other nations’. The message could not be clearer – Baptista is all about spreading the love; uniting the nations.
With founder René Lacoste as a tennis champ himself, Baptiste does not forget the origins of the label… Sliders, tracksuits and polo necks, Lacoste remains today as the ultimate sports-meet-leisure wear.
Nicopanda Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at NYFW
With so many different things going on, Nicola Formichetti has created his own world with the theatrical SS16 presentation of Nicopanda.
There are glitter-faced ballerinas from a childlike fantasy, underwear clad guys holding bouquets of flowers, not to mention the sheer amount of black PVC adding more than a splash of dominatrix…
This wonderfully bizarre, sports-inspired collection sees the continued diffusion and interpretation of a harajuku influence we saw two seasons ago at Nicopanda, with contemporary, tubed sneakers and baroque style embellishments.
Thought your carbon footprint was small? FEIT’s is smaller.
FEIT was initially created as a response to the harmful global pollution caused by the careless mass production of unworthy, poorly constructed shoes. The first of its type, this “Neoluxury” brand promoting high quality, sustainability and individuality, was founded by the Australian born Price brothers, Tull and Josh. Solely hand-crafting their shoes with the highest level of skill, this pioneering duo adopts a contemporary, environmentally friendly production process when creating their footwear.
In collaboration with the artist / designer Jordana Maisie, FEIT now welcomes “Installation Two: Volume and Void”, the second branch of their innovative company in New York’s West Village. The store design has a geometrically shaped clean aesthetic, with timber opening sightlines between the store and outdoor street. Volumetric molds were used to carve out display spaces, in a similar manner to the process of molding leather to a last. The end result, quite like their shoes, is something truly special.
Unseen Photo Fair and Festival 2015
Founded by FOAM Fotographiemuseum, Platform A and Creative Agency Vandejong in 2012, Amsterdam’s Unseen International Photo Fair and Festival returns this year for the fourth time.
Celebrating emerging talent in the field of contemporary photography, the fair exhibits new artists alongside current work from already established photographers. Todd Hido, Jean-François Lepage and Inka & Niclas will be amongst the artists featuring around the old gasworks location, Westergasfabriek, whilst Peter Puklus provides the official artwork for this year’s campaign as part of his current project “The Epic Love Story of a Warrior”.
With the opportunity to engage and contribute your own artistic thoughts and expression through a number of debates and lectures throughout the 3-day fair, the international event brings together a wealth of photography enthusiasts and professionals. This year’s edition includes 54 galleries, the Unseen Book market along with the presentation of two awards; the Unseen Dummy Award and the ING | Unseen Talent Award.
The Unseen Photo Fair runs in Amsterdam’s Westergasfabriek between September 18 and 20, 2015. The Festival, which is accessible with an Unseen ticket, continues until September 27, 2015.
Dez Mona’s “Origin” gets in Touch with their Emotional Side
August 28, 2015, saw the bearded Belgian band Dez Mona release their long-awaited new album “Origin” with Caroline Benelux records. Steering away from the Rock tones of previous album, “A Gentleman’s Agreement”, Nicolas Rombouts’ bass guides listeners back to the band’s more traditional, musical roots of Jazz and gospel with Gregory Frateur’s flawless voice and accompanying double bass, accordion drums and guitars all swiftly in tow. The raw emotion of lyrics is unescapable, whilst the pulsating bassline of first single and album opener “Does it make you, happy?” captivates and thrills. The band also go on tour with the album, starting in October.
Dez Mona “Origins” album is available to purchase from record stores in Belgium and the Netherlands and is also available online from their website.
PARIS XVIE: A Short Film for Dior Homme
Yesterday saw Dior Homme unveil its latest collaboration between artistic director Kris Van Assche and photographer Willy Vanderperre. “PARIS XVIE” is a short film exploring what it means to be this season’s Dior man, with actor Boyd Holbrook guiding us through a day in Paris.
Wearing a tuxedo whilst exploring the depth of Paris’ urban landscape, Holbrook is charmingly confident. Playing a harmonica as he wanders through the streets and picking up flowers as small souvenirs, his pensive expression draws a certain curiosity about him. Toward the end of the film, as a nod to the stylized, cinematic screens of Hollywood, we see him dance around the room and walk under the lights of Paris at nightfall… A clever mix of old and new, this season’s Dior man must be witty, romantic and self-deprecating. PARIS XVIE is online now and accompanied by a still image campaign.
Theory Unveil Latest Campaign with David Sims
Theory reunites with photographer David Sims in launching their AW 2015 campaign. Natalia Vodianova and Clement Chabernaud also return in promoting the brands’ new collection in a variety of chunky knits and woolen suits.
The New York based label have once again avoided cluttering their minimalistic, modern image and opted out of following the current trends. Since being appointed as co-creative directors of the fashion brand last season, Lisa Kulson and Ben Stubbington have stripped back Theorys’ image. Simplistic looks in luxurious, soft fabrics, the fashion brand has evolved to produce unique pieces that are simultaneously easy to wear, wardrobe staples. With their new image, Theory is all about transforming the ordinary into the unordinary. They have created a contemporary, urban uniform, with their reinvention of everyday, work attire.
MACE Announces Summer Collab with LOEWE for John Allen Collection
In collaboration with British artist John Allen, LOEWEs’ creative director J.W. Anderson recently released a quirky line of bags for the brand, featuring the striking landscape prints that Allen is famous for.
This original collection of canvas bags, featuring the pieces “Falling Leaves”, “Cornish Harbour” and Pink House in Cumbria”, have proven to be hugely successful for LOEWE and showcase Allens’ unique style of creating beautiful, abstract scenes using dramatic colours.
Continuing this celebration of fashion, art and culture, LOEWE have agreed to join with the Association of Friends of the Museum of Contemporary Arts in Ibiza (MACE) in opening a Summer Shop in the museum. This will be open from 28 July – 6 September at MACE, located in the Dalt Vila, or IBIZAs’ historic region, and feature LOEWEs’ extraordinary John Allen collection.
Emporio Armani Presents The Fall/Winter 2015/16 Campaign starring Calvin Harris
DJ and producer Calvin Harris stars in the Brooklyn located campaign, a monochrome of cinematographic features shot by photographer Lachlan Bailey. The highly prolific musician Calvin Harris is portrayed in various workplace environments clad in the FW collections’ garments, ranging from leather jackets to the iconic Emporio Armani underwear, eyewear and watches. The continuing collaboration strengthens the ties between the fashion house to the world of the energetic dynamism of contemporary music – with innovation, and futurism intertwined with an assured sense of style. www.armani.com
Lily-Rose Depp for CHANEL
Following in the footsteps of her mother Vanessa Paradis, Lily-Rose Depp has been made the new CHANEL ambassador and the face of its Pearl eyewear collection. The embodiment of youth, modernity and femininity, the young actress plays a baby doll surrounded by a lofty world of sweetness and style. Her appearance at the Haute Couture show signalled the start of Ms. Depp’s journey as CHANEL’s fashion darling. Discover the Pear eyewear collection campaign shot by Karl Lagerfeld in September 2015.
Rihanna x Stance: Murder Rih Wrote
Stance has announced that Rihanna is joining the unique sock brand as its contributing Creative Director and named a Punk & Poet brand ambassador. In celebration of this new venture, Stance has released two limited edition styles called Murder Rih Wrote, one in an over-the-knee style and one as a crew sock. Each set is a true collector’s piece, with only 1500 sets produced. Rihanna’s complete Stance sock collection will be unveiled this coming fall, a collaboration that epitomizes the rule-breaking, carefree and self-defined essence of both Rihanna and Stance.
Spring/Summer 2016 at Berlin Fashion Week
From season to season the German capital proves there’s life in the old dog yet. Roughly 50 shows, an abundance of trade fairs, Microsoft’s IT COTOURE, MasterCard’s Priceless Berlin Launch, Zalando saving the Bread and Butter and opening its Fashion House, as well as the German Fashion Council’s first installment of the Berliner Mode Salon: while this is neither Paris nor Milan, Berlin has sustained international appeal as a fashion metropolis. Coincidentally the premier collection on day one was titled ‚The long march to victory’. Menswear label SOPOPULAR showcased a tone on tone, almost monochrome collection with mystically painted, muddy faces. Usually dark and gloomy with a hopeful flash of light colors towards the end, dangling starps and unusual cutouts, Daniel Blechmann’s vision assembles into a continuous look throughout – all the way down to the boots, which are the result of a fruitful collaboration with Palladium Boots. The Pampa Hi SOPOPULAR will be available from January 2016.
Maverick Marcel Ostertag sought inspiration in the ‚Desert’. His models were adorned in bright colored daily wears. Desert prints on flowing kaftans are standout pieces of the collection. Aside from many light and airy fabrics in shades of brown and yellow, Ostertag showcased delicate gowns crafted from tulle and embroidery in midnight blue and white.
Perfectly timed for Wimbledon, bright white and grass green opened Hien Le’s Spring/Summer 2016 show. Tennis attire of the 1960s and 70s was most obviously the inspiration for his collection and worked splendidly: sporty elegance and his ever so present carefree lightness shaped the season’s designs. Pants, shorts, slightly flared mini skirts; pleats, button-down dresses made from summer wool, Swiss Cotton and coated linen in unadorned, masterly cuts are all part of Le’s signature style. This time around prints were minimal and played right tot the collection’s theme – in the form of tiny crossed tennis rackets.
PERRET SCHAAD once again offered light silk pieces, flowing in the wind at every turn. A perfectly composed color scheme from light shades of green to grey and pinks made for a diversified yet harmonious coloring. Their Spring/Summer 2016 collection embodies the freshness and intensity of a crisp seaside vacation, set off by urban asphalt hues. The mix of natural and artificial colors in this collection juxtaposes the existential severity and lightness PERRET SCHAAD’s classical designs are renowned for. Linens, breezy silks and sheer voile cotton counter heavier fabrics and create volume and interesting lines, much as we have come to expect from the design duo. Long, flowing pants, silk dresses and coats from crinkled linen in midnight blue, black and earth tones make another appearance at Michael Sontag’s show. The designer is another one of those veterans who sticks to his unmistakable signature with his Spring/Summer 2016 offerings – and the collection is better for it.
Malaikaraiss on the other hand strayed a little from her usual styles and envisaged surfer girls with a sleek look, soft dresses, transparent blouses and round straw hats, the very coherent, grown-up look is reminiscent of summer’s fun in the sun.
Lala Berlin’s iconic prints are delicately dispersed on chiffon dresses as well as pant suits suitable for everyday life. Wide pants with pleats folded toward the middle, cut from a jacquard fabric with hobnail patterns will also work well commercially.
White dots are embroidered onto black chiffons; pecking birds on a camisole and a dress is adorned with embroidered pineapple upon the hips in Augustin Teboul’s Spring/Summer 2016 collection. Both designers almost appropriate black denim jackets and pants to street wear – almost. They threaded rows of shimmery black pearls into frayed knees and shoulders - a beautiful finale for day three of Berlin Fashion Week.
Marina Hoermanseder once again showcased her impeccable craftsmanship in molded leather - this time in globe-skirts with leather blossoms tight skirts made from leather straps and cast plastic corsages, added by a number of wearable dresses, blouses and wide-legged pants made from washable silk, suede, and white cotton with eyelet embroidery. During her quest for traditional craft producers, the designer found her Spring/Summer 2016 collection inspiration in elaborately embellished traditional costumes and garments from the Austro-Hungarian Empire and monarchy.
Dorothee Schumacher found inspiration for her Spring/Summer 2016 collection in a paradisiac jungle with florals, beige safari looks, furiously mixed prints. Like many other designers this past week, Dorothee Schumacher rediscovered the shoulder and thereby put a new twist on her ever present play with femininity.
Overall this installment of Fashion Week showcased many of the style tropes associated with the renowned New Objectivity – muted colors, flowing, understated cuts – all perfectly executed by Berlin’s MVPs. However, there are interesting newbies making their mark, promising a future for Berlin’s fashion circuit.
Viktor & Rolf Couture Fall/Winter 2015 at Paris Fashion Week
Rolf Snoeren and Viktor Horsting are no strangers to originality. This collection is no different. With construction so unique and alternative, the Viktor & Rolf catwalk was a highlight of Haute Couture’s Paris Fashion Week. The conceptual magic of the collection was clear to see – artists wrapped in their own constructions, a literal canvas draped chaotically yet beautifully around its maker. The construction of these ‘canvases’ was absolute creative genius. From canvas coats to ‘crushed painting’ dresses and the abstraction of classical Dutch still life imagery in the paintings themselves – Viktor & Rolf provided us with true marvel. Art and fashion is not incommensurable, it is symbiotic. Bravo.
CHANEL Couture Fall/Winter 2015 at Paris Fashion Week
The revived flapper girl took centre stage at CHANEL’s Haute Couture showcase. The drastically shortened bob and asymmetrical hemline were decidedly 1920’s, yet all the while contemporary. Though it wasn’t far removed from a Baz Luhrmann set, the trademark Grand Palais was decidedly CHANEL — abundant in theatrics and perhaps even more ostentatious than any Great Gatsby film set. CHANEL is after all the real deal. The Art Deco casino showcased stars gathered around casino tables, Oscar winner Julianne Moore and muse Kristen Stewart at ease in ‘Le Cercle Privé’.
However, it was Karl Lagerfeld’s bride Kendall Jenner that symbolised this seasons CHANEL Haute Couture collection – an unabashed celebration of the young it-crowd. A proper Daisy Buchanan to Karl’s Gatsby. Indeed, the showcase of the ‘high rollers’ sat in the centre of the runway was perhaps less of a subtle hint, with guests such as Lily-Rose Depp and Lily Collins bidding for a chance at a win. Alas, this is Haute Couture. And conceptualism is as much a part of the picture as the garments themselves.
However, as with his recent collections, Karl triumphs again with his garment construction. This time with the introduction of his fully 3D printed suits, pushing the classic CHANEL look into the age of fashion technology. Though the silhouettes were classic in nature, their conception were as avant-garde as his presentation.
KENZO’s short film “Here and Now"
Bastion of the New Queer Cinema movement Gregg Araki has written and directed an original short film for KENZO, featuring their Fall/Winter 2015 collections. In an idea stemming from the creative directors of the fashion house Carol Lim and Humberto Leon, the movie is a quirky venture, somewhat startling and even a little obscene. Centering around a group that could have been taken straight out of his 1997 cult film ‘Nowhere’, the film is as curious as the KENZO collections: colorful, in-your-face aesthetics, abstract and a little disjointed, yet kind of cool.
Watch the clip here: www.kenzo.com/herenow
Bottega Veneta Fall/Winter 2015-2016 Campaign: “The Art of Collaboration”
The latest sequel to the ongoing collaborative of Creative Director Tomas Maier and distinct artists, the FW 15/16 campaign is shot by photographer Juergen Teller. Taken in the Museum Casa Mollino in Turin, the campaign has the mark of an unfinished canvas – rough and raw around the edges. The former home of Carlo Mollino, one of the most influential Italian designers of the mid-20th century reflects the spirit of the Bottega Veneta season.
Dior Homme Spring/Summer 2016 at Paris Fashion Week
“In All Disorder A Secret Order”. Kris Van Assche, Creative Director of Dior Homme presented his contemporary take on the haute bourgeois man, a playful interaction between tradition and alternative masculinity. Influenced by the popular sportswear trend, traditional aesthetics are infused by an overwhelming sense of French chic – in true Dior style. Camouflage is paired with the tightly tailored suit, intense colors spread throughout the collection in the form of statement jackets, belts and sleeves enhance the sleekness and simplicity of the SS 16 vision.
Valentino Menswear SS 16 at Paris Fashion Week
The sports infused wardrobe is here to stay. Earthy tones of browns, greens and ochre abound in this very wearable menswear collection. Denims and camouflage round off this fully-fledged men’s wardrobe. Valentino’s Pierpaolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri constructed with a true sense of quality a collection as multifaceted as it is flexible – the looks would certainly not seem out of place on most urban streets. Perhaps the only danger here is just how much the collections can be applied – wallets beware!
Dries Van Noten Menswear Spring 2016 at Paris Fashion Week
Red scorpions, red palm trees, a red Marylin – the Dries Van Noten Menswear collection was a thoroughly enjoyable, somewhat ominous seduction by way of iconic imagery. Images of Marylin Monroe were emblazoned elegantly through monochrome patterns peppered throughout the collection. Checkered billowing pants, striped shirts and paisley shorts were paired with summery, silky pieces in dark, somber colors. The Van Noten theme evoked imaginings of a sumptuous Hollywood pool party, only darker and more eerie.
Gucci Menswear Spring 2016 at Milan Fashion Week
Alessandro Michele does not veer from the pristine vision of a John Lennonesque man brought to life in a reformulated sense. With tinted eyewear, flowered lace and shabby-chic hair, the Gucci man emerges as a well-stocked, well-researched vintage savant. Even with such direct references to the 70s silhouette, Alessandro seems to aim more at playing with the aspect of youth culture and the fashion choice of eccentricity, who often draw from old closets.
Hôtel Eugène en Ville Paris
Lying just a short distance from the Opera and the exquisite Galeries Lafayette, the Hôtel Eugène en Ville is a haven for those seeking a home base near the heart of Parisian culture. The surrounding area also boasts several shopping opportunities, restaurants and architecture.
The hotel offers rooms with a distinctively contemporary feel, making the Eugène en Ville a sophisticated yet comfortable space dressed in the guise of an edgy and stylized interior. For a memorable and perhaps quirky yet classy stay, the Hôtel Eugène en Ville is a splendid option for an easy and comfortable exploration of Paris.
Gucci Fall Winter 2016 Campaign
“Those who are truly contemporary are those who neither perfectly coincide with their time nor adapt to its demands.”
Embracing the liminal quality of those who inhabit both past and present mentalities, the Gucci FW 2015-2016 campaign explores the disconnection of those not entirely at home in the present moment. The elegant mix of vintage elements and futuristic fabric combinations positions the collection within the elusive space between “no longer” and “not yet”.
Creative director Alessandro Michele explains that the collection is the summation of his envisioning of today’s urbanite attitude – blurring divisions of gender and time permeate every garment. In a campaign photographed by Glen Luchford, models Tessa Charlotte Bruinsma, Tobias Lundh, Lia Pavlova and Sven de Vries inhabit the bodies of the ‘Gucci contemporaries’. There is no doubt that Michele has delivered a stunning collection - be it past, present, or other.
Alexander McQueen Spring 2016 Menswear
Like the nautical reincarnation of the Victorian gentleman, Sarah Burton’s creative lead steered the McQueen collection towards graphic prints of mythical sea creatures on classic, vintage cuts. Tailored jacquard patterns were intertwined with up-scale pajama-inspired looks. To enhance the look of the nautical was the fresh-out-the-water locks.
Versace FW 2015 Campaign
Versace’s color-blocked playground stars models Karlie Kloss, Caroline Trentini and Lexi Boling as the fashion house’s campaign protagonists. Championing the strong sophistication of the Versace essence, primary colors dominate and provoke. Introducing the #GREEK motif, Donatella Versace’s artistic direction steers the iconic brand towards a remixed, modernized play on the mod-dress.
The striking campaign is the result of the photographers Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott, who enhanced Donatella’s vision of the woman unfazed and empowered by boldness through color and cut.
For more go to
SLOE presents their new collection ‘Avidness’
Founded by Antonia Siegmund and Matthias Last in the summer of 2012, the German label combines their belief in casual sensuality, urban grace and high-end materials in a sustainable form. With clean cuts and fine craftsmanship, SLOE launches their third collection ‘Avidness’.
SLOE’s collection typifies the fashion-labels’ understated elegance and stoic perseverance of the simplistic and durable aspects of contemporary style. As the capstone of ‘Avidness’, the fringed leather shoulder bag is created through careful selection of materials, designed to stand the test of time and style. Classic colors, tailored coats and sweaters underpin their timeless quality.
SLOE pieces can be purchased online and in selected stores.
Hotel Daniel Paris
Located in the middle of the Parisian heart, the Hotel Daniel is a decidedly quirky amalgamation of east and west. Furnished by the talented designer Tarfa Salam, the hotel inspires dreams of fantastical getaways. With elegance and charm in troves, the hotel's signature exotic style remains an alternative respite in the face of contemporary minimalism, where sumptuous décor ignite thoughts of far away lands in inner-city surroundings.
With a slight wander out the door, you will find yourself in a vibrant part of the city, the cultural veins of the city's heart sprouting in all directions in the form of art galleries, fashion houses, restaurants and nightclubs. Its own restauranteur, Chef Jérôme Bonnet, raised in Languedoc Roussillon, promises a sophisticated menu composed of traditional and self-made recipes. Barely aged past the year of seven, the Daniel is a connoisseur's choice.
Villa Kubu Boutique Hotel & Spa
Located in the fantastical Seminyak region of Bali, Indonesia, the Villa Kubu offers an oasis of luxury leisure. Merely 1km away you will stumble onto the famous Seminyak beach, however with a range of romantic and private sanctuaries stocked with cozy furnishings and private-pool Villa’s, it just might be a little too hard to leave the premises.
To make things even more irresistible, full entertainment packages are set up in each Villa along with fully equipped kitchens. If you find yourself longing for a soul-nourishing escape, the chic Villa Kubu will cater to your holiday needs.
For offers, rates and more information, go to
Christian Dior Opens New Boutique in Seoul
Part marbled orchid, part contemporary architectural statement, Dior’s new Seoul-located boutique is built for an allround shopping experience. Created by the French architect Christian de Portzamparc, the boutique includes a lounge, gallery, and Pierre Herme-operated café, as well as the first stand-alone Homme Boutique. Located in the heart of the Cheongdam-dong, Gangnam-du district of Seoul, the imposing six-story building houses the fashion house’s extensive range of accessories and ready-to-wear.
To celebrate the opening of the boutique, Dior has launched a limited edition collection to be sold exclusively in Korea. The collection includes handbags and accessories and will be engraved with the “Limited Edition” seal. These unique-to-Korea items include a Tiger keychain and the lambskin Lady Dior handbags, created in the image of the façade of the Portzamparc building.
The boutique is set to open on June 20th, 2015.
Replay Spring/Summer 2016 in Mykonos
Ringing in the summer season on the Greek island of Mykonos, Replay hosted about 700 guests for the launch of their 2016 SS collection. Treated to a sun-filled show with models such as Alessandra Ambrosio, Bar Rafaeli and Sara Sampaio, the Nammos Beach Club set the stage for Replay’s theme ‘Destroyed Denim’.
Inspired by the idyllic surroundings of the Mediterranean, the collection is wholly emblematic of the laid-back, relaxed lifestyle of island trendsetters. The theme effortlessly pairs the rugged styles of Replay’s classic denim wear with billowing, bright fabrics.
Inspired by the idyllic surroundings of the Mediterranean, the collection is wholly emblematic of the laid-back, relaxed lifestyle of island trendsetters. The theme effortlessly pairs the rugged styles of Replay’s classic denim wear with billowing, bright fabrics.
Hotel Chateau de Varenne
Built as a private residence, the Chateau de Varenne castle hotel is newly renovated in keeping with local heritage. With a rich history steeped in romanticism, the XVIIIth century building looks onto the Rhone Valley and the village Sauveterre in the heart of Provence.
With a decidedly personal touch, the village farmer makes the fruit juices, the jams are hand-made, croissants freshly delivered by the local baker, and the honey is produced by a local Roquemaure beekeeper.
Member of the prestigious Cercle Prestige du Comité du Tourisme Languedoc Rousillon, the hotel is of true quality. With three hectares of garden, the Chateu is an oasis in itself, yet a mere minutes drive away from Avignon.
Louis Vuitton 2016 Cruise Collection
On May 6th, the Cruise 2016 show made the landmark residence of Bob and Dolores Hope its grand stage. Created by revered Modernist architect John Lautner, the steel, concrete and glass windowed architecture seemed built for the show. Armor-like, metallic pieces were intertwined with ethereal, flowing prints, creating an aesthetic that could be described as futuristic boho-chic. Structured, practical boots were favoured over the heel, adding to the utilitarian feel.
The LV Cruise show caused quite the ruckus, not merely for its runway mastery, but its presence on social media. For the public and those not in attendance, the fashion house shared runway, backstage and after party moments with their Live Louis Vuitton Snapchat feature.
Nicholas Ghesquiere’s showcase was, however, so much more than a display of a stunning collection, it was a momentary glimpse of an alternate, Ghesquiere-curated life. The desolate yet beautiful surroundings of the Palm Springs location afforded to the showcase an outlandish, near alien atmosphere, and the clothing were equally as elevated.
To see the full show, go to
Miu Miu Fall 2015 Campaign
Unveiling another elevated lookbook, Miu Miu’s recent campaigns have reigned supreme in shaping high street trends. From the angular yet plush handbags to the heeled brogues – their 2015 fall campaign just might set off another rush towards vintage revival.
Jamie Hawkesworth’s images tell the story of Miu Miu’s ongoing affair with the power of opposites. Starring model Estella Boersma, the images reflect the items’ sophisticated and the innocent play with the sensual and confident, through a femininity that treads a multiplex path. This juxtaposition is reiterated in the incorporation of vintage upholstery-inspired fabrics in combination with contemporary masculinity in the form of tailored shorts suits.
Exploring the subtle and direct oppositions of form and silhouette, Miu Miu brings to the table a closet packed with desirables.
Slam Jam x Carhartt WIP
To celebrate the anniversary of Slam Jam, the Italian based clothing company rallied the creative force of Carhartt WIP and the British designer Andrew Bunney to develop their Boom Town Slickers jubilee project. Consisting of five looks under the themes “Putty Canvas”, “Denim”, “Reflective”, “Bandana” and “Chase Thermal”, the looks are all made of Carhartt WIP classics, and are an amalgamation of the reinterpretation of the old and the new.
Rooted in “street culture”, Slam Jam's aesthetic hails from the influences of music, sports and the visual arts. Over the past twenty-five years, the company has been bridging the world of streetwear and fashion.
The 3rd drop of its capsule collection “Boom Town Slickers” consists of special material and workwear items. The items from the 3rd drop entitled Reflective will be available from April 25th, followed by the 4th and 5th drop on May 25th and June 25th respectively. They will be available at Slam Jam and Carhartt WIP, both online and in store, as well as selected stores worldwide.
Prouvé RAW Office Edition launches during International Design Week
The collaborators G-Star RAW, Vitra and the Prouvé family are launching the second series of the Prouvé RAW furniture collaboration: the office edition.
Meeting the demands of the modern-day office, the ten-piece series refashions the designs through the use of heavy-duty fabric materials in industrial shades of green, reflecting the re-use of factory floors and workshops for creative agencies. The Office Furniture project was initiated through a variety of custom workstations, conference tables, office chairs and other pieces of furniture made to furnish G-Star’s Amsterdam offices.
Catherine Prouvé explains the collection’s contemporary renewal: “I like the fact that this edition honors my father’s original design, while complementing it with contemporary details. This follows his understanding of design, which he regarded as a dynamic process. To him design was a never-ending evolution, constantly striving to respond to changing needs.”
Valentino opens new flagship store in Rome
As of now, you can find the largest flagship store by Valentino in the heart of Rome. The creative masterminds behind the brand, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Picciolo, have collaborated with architect David Chipperfield to create an environment that captures Valentino exactly as it is. They combine traditional values with modern design, allowing the atmosphere of the store to be welcoming and artistic at the same time. Since the store is situated in Piazza di Spagna, the only thing you can do is to get lost in Italian tradition and craftsmanship while visiting.
The Stage by Replay
To complete the Replay lifestyle, the brand has opened a restaurant at the multi-experience store in Porta Nuova, Milan. In the heart of this district, you’ll find a dining experience that combines fashion with cinema and sound. Award winning design firm Roman and Williams Buildings and Interiors has managed to create an environment that feels like a Hollywood film set. It is luxurious, yet familiar.
Diesel reintroduces Jogg Jeans
Back in 2011, Diesel launched Jogg Jeans for the first time. By using a special fabric, they made it possible to create jeans that were just as soft as a pair of sweatpants, but durable as denim at the same time. This year, Diesel is reintroducing Jogg Jeans with a campaign shot by artist Doug Abraham. It captures exactly what Jogg Jeans are about, along with the identity of Diesel.
#ATribute to Armani
The past forty years, Giorgio Armani has built one of the greatest fashion houses we know today. With many different brand extensions and a distinctive style, they have proven the importance of Italian fashion.
To celebrate the anniversary of Armani’s empire, the brand has created a website that brings a tribute to the brand. Using #ATribute, the website will unveil forty different themes, for every year the Armani house has existed.
Bottega Veneta opens their first Home Collection Boutique in Milan
It is just like every thing else Bottega Veneta is about: extremely sophisticated and elegant, made with the highest quality materials and crafted by hand. Bottega Veneta’s home collection includes furniture, lighting and home decoration. For the first time, the brand has opened a boutique that is completely dedicated to this collection, right in the heart of Milan.
You can visit the store at Via Borgospesso n.5 in Milan.
Stella McCartney at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
We can always count on Stella McCartney to bring us effortless elegance. She understands the city woman like no other, and knows exactly how to design comfort. Her latest collection for Fall/Winter 2015 was filled with chunky, knitted sweaters and pajama-like ensembles.
On the other hand, Stella proves that she is anything but lazy. All garments are well tailored, especially her dresses and high waisted pants.
Valentino at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Valentino’s collection for Fall/Winter 2015 was just as perfect as any of the previous ones. The cuts are brilliant, the details magnificent and fabrics are by far the best they can get their hands on.
Since their takeover, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli have lifted Valentino to new heights. Every show has been a spectacle in its own way, but none of them could compare to the closing looks we saw this time. Ben Stiller and Owen Wilson walked on stage in the roles of Derek Zoolander and Hansel, characters from the film Zoolander that came out in 2001. They were wearing Chiuri and Piccoili’s signature suits for Valentino, and had all eyes on them.
Commercially, Chiuri and Piccoili have been brilliant from the beginning on, but this stunt just proved their never ending creativity and their feel for what people want. Or maybe even need.
Christian Dior at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Golden boy Raf Simons tags along with the others and jumps back to the sixties. Subtle but groovy prints, latex boots and garments made out of an innovative, mesh fabric gave the entire collection more sexiness then we have seen at Dior before. The looks are much more wearable then at previous collections, especially considering that these clothes will be worn in big cities.
Simons showed us that Dior can be something for everyone. For next fall, he created perfectly finished suits with cropped, wide pants. There were a few painted furs, and what we saw most were long, warm coats. If the classics weren’t good enough, you could enjoy thigh high latex boots and fluid mesh garments.
Balenciaga at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Alexander Wang has understood the essence of Balenciaga from the beginning on. Seeing his development with the brand is not only satisfying, but makes us want to get out of our chairs and give him a standing ovation.
The way the clothing is constructed refers to the work of Christóbal Balenciaga; showing a new way of looking at tailoring. Wang manages to embrace the shapes of the female body and work with that, rather than simply creating clothes and putting them on.
Tweed and wool dominated the show for next season, making sure that the collection is more of a classic one. Just like Christóbal himself, Wang is making garments that will last a lifetime. Or maybe even longer.
John Galliano at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
While John Galliano himself was focusing on a different house, his right hand, Bill Gaytten, took care of the latest collection. The result definitely did not scream Galliano’s drama as before, but it definitely showed the core of the brand. Extremely elegant femininity could be found in every look, together with craftsmanship and detail. The collection told a beautiful story of subtlety and beauty, something that Gaytten has done well.
Balmain at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Fringes, extremely wide flared pants, stripes and large belts around the waist all referred to this specific luxury from the seventies. Oliver Rousteing showed his vision for Balmain in a way that was clear and spot on. It is that confident girl, which likes to be looked at. An intimidating woman, that doesn’t dress down.
The overall feel of the collection was very Parisian; something that Balmain has always had in its essence. Every look seems to be perfect for a night out in Paris, but only if you fit the previous description.
Akris at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Albert Kriemler knows his clientele well. During his latest show for Akris, he presented a collection that consisted out of highly wearable garments, which were simple, elegant and well made. The overall collection was modest, where warm tones of white dominated most looks.
For next season, Kriemler experimented with textures on fabrics that managed to lift up the sober collection. For some of the looks, this meant that the fabrics seemed to be made out of reptile-like skin. The large use of grey and soft materials like jersey, gave the collection a feel of comfort, without being too lazy.
Trussardi at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
During the latest Trussardi show, Gaia Trussardi portrayed a classic Femme Fatale. She chose an ultra feminine silhouette and combined this with highly luxurious materials. By using natural colors, she made sure that every look in the collection is very wearable, pointing at what is probably going to be a commercial success.
Giorgio Armani at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Metallics and brushstrokes dominated the latest show by Giorgio Armani. The collection consisted mostly out of jackets and pants, which made overall strong impression. Straight silhouettes and subtle layering made gave the collection a somewhat minimalist feel. Just like in the Emporio Armani show we saw last week, icy blues were everywhere to be found.
Emporio Armani at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Ice cold blues and deep, warm reds dominated the Emporio Armani Fall/Winter 2015 collection.
The overall mood was dark, vampy and there was a certain suspense. For some reason, it felt as if the models would smoothly fit into the set of David Lynch's Twin Peaks, which gave it something... idiosyncratic.
Armani managed to keep the Emporio woman utterly mysterious by adding goth-like elements to ensembles that were otherwise highly feminine and slightly more plain. The short, black hair, specific tailoring and use of black velvet turned the show into a Lynchian story, leaving us with goosebumps.
J.W. Anderson at London Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
J.W. Anderson is showing us something we have never seen him do before. He is introducing a new way of layering, with green, black and white corduroy pants under skirts and dresses. Anderson’s inspiration is visible in every part of the collection. Exaggerated shoulders, bright colors, draped velvet, shiny metallic and large plastic rings that accentuate the waist all reflect the early eighties.
Ankle length leather coats in light pink and dark brown and knee-high boots with draping on the top stood out the most during his show.
Gareth Pugh at London Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Not only is Gareth Pugh back in London for the first time in years, he has also chosen to take his homeland as an inspiration for the Fall/Winter 2015 collection. During this show, Pugh’s hooligans were ready to take over the city that once belonged to him. Painted faces linked to British football supporters, while headpieces with chains and tailored jackets clearly referred to the guards in front of Buckingham Palace.
The girl that Pugh introduced was somewhat of a royal dominator. She was extremely confident and powerful, which showed in the grand, static silhouette and use of strong materials such as stiff leather and metal. Pugh managed to take everything we expect from Britain, and turn it into something completely surprising.
Tokyo in Berlin
Nine years have passed since the opening of Zenkichi in Brooklyn. This year, owners Motoko Watanabe and Shaul Margulies have chosen to open a second branch in Berlin. They recently moved to Germany to open their café ‘House of Small Wonder’ in Mitte, and decided it was time to introduce authentic Japanese dining.
To mimic a true Japanese dining experience, Watanabe has chosen for a private and closed interior. The restaurant is divided into 35 private booths, where you can even pull down bamboo blinds if needed. Watanabe and Margulies stay away from Japanese clichés and get to the essence of the culture with their menu, interior and overall atmosphere.
Sjaron Minailo is a child of the nineties, and of postmodernism. Throughout the years, he has always found inspiration in the works of musician and artist Björk. He has now directed a new piece based on her album Medúlla, where several generations meet to celebrate the art of the opera.
The spectacular costumes and intriguing set have been designed by Henrik Vibskov, who has managed to create a visual style that fits Medúlla perfectly.
Diesel Black Gold at New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Andreas Melbostad is not the only designer who chose black as the main subject for his fall 2015 collection, but he sure is the one who managed to make black seem so colorful. High contrasts in masculinity and extreme femininity make each and every single garment in this collection effortlessly sexy, while being slightly intimidating at the same time. Short, flappy skirts are combined with oversized men’s jackets made out of wool. Lace details make the items seem softer and daintier, while belts and metal buckles hint at bondage.
THE STORE x Soho House Berlin
True to its rather succinct name, THE STORE offers a refined range from the very best cultural offerings, from fashion to furniture, art, beauty, books and food. Nestled in the lower ground and ground floors of Soho House in Berlin Mitte, the artfully architected space stretches over 2800 square-meters – a setting to inspire thought and creativity under an immersive installation.
Divided into two distinct zones, THE STORE centers around its Cultural Hub, boasting art installations, photographic and broadcasting studios, collaboration stations, Pizza East, Barber&Parlour and THE STORE Kitchen.
The retail element of THE STORE curates the most considered in fashion, art and design, a new home to brands such as Balenciaga, Jil Sander, J.W. Anderson, Proenza Schouler, Issey Miyake, Junya Watanabe, Christophe Lemaire and The Row.
THE STORE x Soho House opens February 2015.
Dior Homme at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
Dior Homme may well have fetishized the standard suit this season, but little about the collection was average. For a start, van Assche’s blending of black tie and baseball cap, each emblazoned by a flagrant floral badge corsage. Arid leather parkas were thrown on top of spotless suits, taking the starch out of pristine tailoring, while long coats were drawn-out to the ankles, teetering above vaulted virgin trainers.
Chambray denim jackets – so clean and efficient – slipped under the waistbands of rubbery leather sweatpants, slender in cut, yet long enough to buckle at the ankles. Navy chalk stripe suits bagged around slight bodies, single breasted and boxy – the apple of the eighties’ businessman’s eye – topped off by the tallying of a stubby round-edged briefcase. Palette maintained a monochrome uniform, save the electric blue flash of a thermo-finished zip cardigan, or the inverted watercolour prints playing out across felted wools in a woozy hit of lead grey and banana yellow. Tailored as it so seemed, van Assche’s excellence was all in the undoing – destructing all meaning, yet not a thread out of place.
Maison Margiela at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
It was a trippy hit of tinsely lurex, pimp coats and puddled psych prints this season at Maison Margiela – an exercise in ritzy decadence for lanky outsiders.
Waxy leathers took on redolent hues, cloaking shearling and trench coats in murky plums and teals, trimmed with delightfully dated salmon-pink teddy bear wool collars. When they weren’t garish and glossy, painted leathers were put to use as patchwork, their tattered patinas stitched to hessian toiles and engineered into blazers and flared pants.
Mauve marbled with olive green to craft slender cashmere crew-necks, tucked into swaying oxford bags and finished with a gentler interpretation of the Chelsea boot. Drainpipes took on the sheen of supple skins, paired with chunky Nordic knits for a mawkish insouciance. Meanwhile, cardigans and skin-tight sweaters were striped in frizzy lurex, unashamedly ostentatious with their sweet-wrapper sensibility.
Kaviar Gauche at Berlin Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Swollen swathes of snow white tulle and all-over applique lilies drive heads to the clouds under the distinctly dreamy vision of Kaviar Gauche this season.
A fine art to master, Kaviar Gauche here managed to strike the perfect balance between verbose elaboration and artful absence in negative space; porcelain-pure gowns were encrusted with a plush, pure white bed of blossom, flowering from the bodice and giving way to soft and unsullied sheaths of a silk chiffon skirt. Against long-sleeved tee-dresses, the bouquet sprawled to the hem, petering out in its climb to the neckline. The effect was that of a balancing act – give and take at its most resplendent.
When ornamentation ceased to bud from the cloth, it inverted, almost dissolving into a frosted layer of lace. Whispering over the body, nude tulles bore just a suggestion of Belgian lace, its intricacies only discernible if they happened to catch the light – a tailored mirage. An ivory illusion, dreamed up by Kaviar Gauche.
Raf Simons at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
The sentiment behind Simons’ collection was “youth on a pedestal”, which accounts much for its soul-baring, Dadaist print, raw-hemmed DIY aesthetic.
Graffiti-scrawled lab coats drew-out the length of the body, punctuated by a preppy poloneck peeping from a scholarly sweater. Knitted tank tops were mawkish in model but not in practice, as fluro freeform checks bedazzled in peachy pink and green.
Plum slim-fit pants were poised with pockets at the hips, slender to the knee before eeking out to a gentle flare, traipsing over shoes and under soles. Footwear flipped between sneakers and brogues, just the glimpse of toe cap to testify which was in post.
Cartoonish-collared coats were thatched in a russet gridded weave, paired with mustard scallop sweaters ripe from a seventies’ sofa – that is, of course, unless they were being lacquered in urgent licks of crimson and jet, rotund, waxy and warped to the knee. Simons may well have set out to put youth on a pedestal, yet they soon knocked themselves back down, self-deprecating as his teens did seem – but then again, angst is in the nature of the beast.
'Elastic Heart' by Sia Starring Shia Labeouf
Few music videos bear the hallmarks of exceptional iconography these days – rarely do they execute it twice – but the rulebook goes out the window with Sia’s latest release, rendered all the more surreal for its casting of Shia LaBeouf.
An extension of the narrative behind her unforgettable Grammy-nominated promo for ‘Chandelier’ released in May last year, the video for ‘Elastic Heart’ proves an equally unforgettable sequel, again featuring platinum-haired protagonist Maddie Ziegler, this time dancing alongside LaBeouf. Under the confines of a giant iron cage set in a steely vacant warehouse, Ziegler and LaBeouf present a poignant performance, the same iconic nude leotards ravaged by dirt, carving the contour of second round of awe-inspiring choreography, crafted under the artful eye of film-maker Daniel Askill. To brand the film a mere music video would be an injustice; here we have the second of two extraordinary works of art.
Alles Maskerade at Museum Villa Rot
'Alles Maskerade', a collective exhibit presented by the Museum Villa Rot (Burgrieden, Germany), explores the concepts of masquerade and carnival within the framework of contemporary art. The act of dressing up can be interpreted in many different ways, and can have just as many meanings. But how do masquerades hold up to their cultural value in the postmodern media age? And what impact do they have on contemporary art?
The showcase is part of a larger exhibition project, created in collaboration with the MEWO Kunsthalle and curated by Stefanie Dathe (Museum Villa Rot) and Axel Lapp (MEWO Kunsthalle).
The exhibit will feature the works of the following artists: Axel Hoedt, Phyllis Galembo, Kristof Georgen, Fergus Greer, Imme van der Haak, Thomas Hörl, Klaus Pichler, Yinka Shonibare MBE, Jacqui Stockdale, Jean Tinguely, Urban Camouflage and Miguel Walch.
Alles Maskerade: 16 November, 2014 – 22 February, 2015. Burgrieden, Germany.
All images via Axel Hoedt's www.exhibitionviews.co.uk
House of Small Wonder Berlin
Four years ago, Motoko Watanabe and Shaul Margulies opened the House of Small Wonder in Williamsburg, New York. It didn't take long for the greenhouse-like café, specialising in delicious comfort foods with a Japanese twist, to become a cherished place for breakfast and brunch.
The newly-opened Johannisstrasse branch, designed by Prop House's Jonathan Margulies, shares the same energising atmosphere and mouth-watering cuisine. Here, specialist dishes like the Okinawan Taco Rice and the Tsukune Don (a Japanese chicken meatball with sweet soy sauce) are served alongside New York favourites (poached eggs with wasabi hollandaise sauce, fluffy ginger and sesame pancakes and bacon shiso infused waffles, to name a few) and freshly-baked homemade bread, croissants and gluten-free cookies, bound to be appreciated by Berliners.
Ermenegildo Zegna launches Bespoke Atelier
March 15th 2017, marks a pivotal stage for Ermenegildo Zegna, as it announces the opening of the first Bespoke Atelier. The space is dedicated to the label’s bespoke service and is locate at the top floor of the Zegna building in Milan’s renowned via Montenapoleone.
The stand-alone project revolves around the idea of intimate elegance with a distinctly Milanese feel and treats its bespoke services with a precise ritual. The experience begins right at the entrance where clients are welcomed by a valet and ushered in the Atelier which is conceived to comply with aesthetics and functionality of traditional tailoring ateliers: an apartment cum workshop with the public and working areas connected yet separable.
The large space is furnished with both vintage and new pieces as well as pieces that hark back to Zegna’s very own history. Warmth and charm intermingle with a domestic feel making this a truly unique tailoring experience that strengthens the dialogue between the Milanese brand and its customer base of men of discerning taste who aim to have their wardrobe made according tot heir own desires, demands and lifestyles.
Céline Fall/Winter 2017
“The spectator is caught under a cloudy or a starry sky, surrounded by ocean waves or masses of people running towards him, while he is entranced by the dramatic actions of the central round arena. The division between acting and the audience no longer exists. Words, light and music no longer have a set place […] The director alters position and spatial forms and mercilessly subjects the audience to the dynamics of his imaginations”.
Walter Gropius’s words during 1934 Volta congress in Rome resonate strong in Phoebe Philo’s setting choice for her Celine Fall/Winter 2017 show. It’s not the first time that a fashion designer is fascinated by the visionary ideas of the Bauhaus pioneer for his Total Theater, where the audience was supposed to revolve during the performance, shifting the spectators and the stage area to alter the viewer's scale of values and forcing them to participate in the act.
We have known Phoebe Philo for her no-nonsense vision and relaxed, elegant silhouettes as the embodying of the powerful, confident working woman who has no time for superfluous fuss. The catwalk was populated by a tribe of women, with their different life, different tempo, like we would find in any busy street.
At first glance Celine Fall Winter 2017 is just all that. Exceptional tailoring and gimmick-free looks: the long trench coat, oversized tuxedo blazers, long tunics with matching fluent pants for the day and a modern version of emperor dresses for a more dress-up feel, a crisp white shirt.
But Philo’s masterly created a collection again beautifully lying in the details, revealing its stance dramatically at a closer look.
The collection featured beautiful origami-like seam lines as mimicking the movement of the body and its presence. Like when you bend your harm and a crisp fabric would inevitably crease. It’s real life that Philo delicately suggests. Real women who don’t need to scream.
Yohji Yamamoto Fall/Winter 2017
Declinations of deconstructed silhouettes in shades of black. Pleated, wrapped, twisted. Yohji Yamamoto Fall/Winter 2017 celebrates the roots of the acclaimed Japanese master himself in all the aspects that have been constantly accompanying his vision.
Forty-four looks of pure architectural shapes, and virtuosic silhouettes in a crescendo of emotions. As Yamamoto once again recorded his own guitar playing for the show music, it’s almost as if we could see him, in his home, sitting down and casually strumming his acoustic guitar, in search for fragments of time, emotions, images. Singing about a woman, the archetype of the woman itself.
And it’s the search for the perfect balance of draping around the female body the protagonist of the collection. The gracious volumes protruding along the figure with bias cut, deconstructed, rigorously in black with hand-painted splash of purple and blue. Painting has always been a beautiful obsession for the Japanese designer and we know he would never refrain from expressing the refuse to use print patterns.
The collection synthesizes magnetically these feelings of attachments to identity and the exciting search for the new. Yohji Yamamoto showed once again the unconditional pure beauty of staying true to oneself.
Rick Owens Fall/Winter 2017
Sweatshirts and tees wrapped around the head, mimicking early ritual ceremonies. Coats, skirts, sleeveless jackets layered and twisted over the body recalling sacred costumes.
Rick Owens for Fall Winter 2017 designed a collection channelling the need for a positive new beginning rooted in the idea of collectivity, of gathering together, of human kind in its social form. It had a sense of austerity, of deep hope for a better future. As the model walked in the dry space of Palais de Tokyo, one following the other and randomly walking around the space it felt as a vortex of shapes, volumes and lengths was wrapping up the audience.
Deconstructed silhouettes of puffa jackets, blasers together with leather dresses pulled down and worn as captured in the second of taking them off. There was a strong sense of moving on, of change and positive transformation for a designer who has been building his reign on shades of darkness. Rick Owens chose a colour palette recalling his early work: olive green, khaki, black, shades of brown. It was as if the designer was looking for the initiation moment. The rebirth, the celebration of a future soon to come.
Marina Abramovic - The Cleaners
Marina Abramovic, one of the most recognised artists of our time, has often utilised her body and the concept of presence as her primary artistic media. Her self-exposure as a means of artistic expression has garnered her criticism and praise in equal measure. Controversial as she may be, her work has earned her a place in the spotlight, a place that she continues to uphold to this day.
Abramovic's first major retrospective in Europe, entitled The Cleaner is being housed in Stockholm's Moderna Museet. It presents several of her best-known performances, including the Relation Works with German artist as well as former collaborator and partner, Ulay. The works take the form of live performances, films, installations and photographs dating back to the 70s and taking us all the way to the present day. Early paintings, and works on paper – some of them exhibited for the very first time – are also part of the exhibition.
A tumultuous childhood and an upbringing rife with religious and revolutionary undertones, shaped the Belgrade-born artist's worldview and played a pivotal, highly influential role in her career. Her work seeks to decipher and explore complex concepts such loss, memory, being and pain. Abramovic doesn't shy away from existential questions and interprets them in ways that may both provoke and move her audiences, delving deep into both the physical and the mental pain threshold in her own unique way. In The Lovers (1988) Abramovic and Ulay undertook a 90-day walk from opposite ends of the Great Wall of China. Their halfway meeting marked the end of their love affair and more than ten-year partnership.
A selection of the artist's performance works will be re-performed in the exhibition by specially-trained performance artists who will lend their talents to works such as Cleaning the Mirror (1995) where one person carefully scrubs clean a human skeleton in a confrontation with morality, Freeing Series (1975) where voice, memory and body are set free, and Art Must Be Beatiful, Artists Must be Beautiful (1975) where the same phrase and actions are repeated obsessively, almost like an incantation.
A new work by Abramovic, in collaboration with Lynsey Peisinger will also be performed at the Moderna Museet's Eric Ericson Hall from the 27th of February to the 5th of March.
The exhibition will run from the 18th of February to the 21st of May 2017.
Iris Schomaker – Come to the Edge
Berlin based artist Iris Schomaker, will display her first Benelux exhibition “Come to the Edge” at the Reflex Gallery in Amsterdam showing off her expressive large-scale watercolor and oil-works on paper featuring figures in various states of repose.
The show will consist purely of new works representing an arresting close-up of a single figure, lying reading, resting, sitting curled up, unaware of the viewer’s gaze because “it’s more like a sudden glimpse-something unexpected. These figures do not offer contact. Their faces are blank, vanishing.” As the artist herself said.
Is exactly this blankness that took Iris to project on to the image looking at the very anonymity of those faces as an invitation to the viewers to bring something of their own being surrounded by powerfully immersive and contemplative figures. Moreover the figures in the newer works from the German artist are often accompanied by a symbolic animal that is more idea, atmosphere, and energy, more a sprit guide that brings a strange, irritating and inspiring energy rather than a flesh and bones companion.
In muted shades of black and grey, with only the thinnest veil of oil wash in faded aquamarine or yellow, the overall impression of the palette is decidedly monochrome. The figures are resolutely not portraits; the final creation is given by a work of research through images of unknown people like photos, sketches, ripped pages of magazines, combined with her drawing and creativity, in order to give birth to an incredible mix between classic paintings and current graphic novels.
The exhibition will run until April 26th 2017
Ermenegildo Zegna's Defining Moments
Every story worth being recounted begins with a defining moment. Ermenegildo Zegna's latest campaign focuses on just that: precious interactions, settings and conversations that trigger potentially life-changing reactions for its participants.
Robert De Niro, an actor known and revered the world over requires no introduction but it is safe to say he is no fashion ad regular. Alongside him, American Honey break-out star McCaul Lombardi whose performance generated Hollywood buzz at the end of last year. Actors of different generations, with wildly different experience levels but with an affinity that transcends age.
The campaign, shot by film-maker Francesco Carrozzi sees the actors interacting both with each other and the Zegna garments they have chose to wear and recalling their Defining Moments. De Niro's mentors, his philosophy of risk-taking and what draws him to a role are all put to the table. Lombardi appears genuinely awe-struck and profoundly respectful of his older, more experienced counterpart as he shares his experiences.
A free, real and passionate exchange that bridges a generational gap and lies at the heart of Ermenegildo Zegna's philosophy. A merging of the intensely artisanal and industrial elements that form the brand's DNA and expresses its values.
Paul Smith Menswear Fall/Winter 2017
Paul Smith is one of the few brands that gives you the feeling of security, of home and the certainty of effortless style.
With its timeless tailoring, the classic yet fun twistS in textiles and cuts, for his Fall/Winter 2017 Sir Paul Smith presented Menswear and Womenswear together. It was a storm of several declinations of what it could be Paul Smith now, and how any person, especially young, could sport it. Lush checked classic English fabrics, for men and women, silk dresses both in solid colours and printed with hundreds of feathers as taken from a XIX century treatise on naturalia.
Paul Smith with his masterly style showed us how we can wear a shearling short jacket over a suit. Or how a woman can sport a deep blue velvet suit and look so sexy. Coral, blue, green, khaki, grey: a colourful palette true to the brand’s signature identity. We particularly loved the relaxed blazer suits – womens’ were long, below the hips - and the coats over them, for him and her, a full dive into that Smith heritage of effortless elegance.
OFF WHITE Fall/Winter 2017
“The show is real” Virgil Abloh told us backstage after the show. Real and now, much like the urge to touch the everyday life of many in various forms. For OFF-WHITE Menswear Fall/Winter 2017 collection Abloh stood up for a new chapter of the brand. Oversized outwear gives way to tailored silhouettes. The extreme youthful approach is now moving into a more grownup vision.
The spectacular set design featuring real fading leaves and shedding trees inside the harsh concrete brutalist UNESCO building, wraps the collection in a surreal atmosphere. As we walk inside the venue we feel overwhelmed by this recreated landscape. It almost urges you to just take a stroll and roll in what looks like a wintery park’s forgotten route.
Checked coats with embroidered foliage, denim printed with flying doves and adorned with golden leaves by London based jeweller Duffy. Exquisite knitwear permeates the whole collection, both for men and women, featuring the brand’s signature bar logo. In all its wearability Seeing Things – as named by Abloh - is a romantic and ambitious collection yet staying true to OFF-WHITE’s identity rooted in the streets.
A new way of seeing, as resonating in the words of British writer John Berger’s Ways of Seeing, was chosen as the opening narration for the show: “The images has come to you, you don’t go to them. The days of pilgrimage are over. It is the image of the painting which travels now”.
SANKUANZ Fall/winter 2017: the chemistry collection
Standing for the reversal of an established system and breaking away from political correctness, that is what epitomises the Sankuanz Fall/Winter 2017 collection that explores space and chemistry.
Designer Shangguan Zhe's latest collection holds man's relationship with space and chemistry at its core, proposing garments that overlap with the idea of consuetude. Military uniforms with raw edges, primitive top-stitched suits and parkas, jumpsuits with industrial strap and bio-chemical protections, just a few examples of Zhe's research-based project. Zhe, indeed, created his own textiles mixing industrial materials and aramid fibers, usually used for spacesuits to give birth to his undoubtedly contemporary and updated vision.
Silhouettes are completed with accessories like visored bucket hats, pop military backpacks and high-top sock sneakers in a color palette that is everything but boring.
Vivienne Westwood summer trip to the Mediterranean
The Mediterranean has always served as a source of inspiration for poets and artists. A symbol of eternal beauty, of endless summers. A beauty that many have attempted to explain with words but that is better left to feelings and emotions.
Andreas Kronthaler's Spring/Summer 2017 'Europa' collection for Vivienne Westwood is a case in point. The collection is an ode to the Mediterranean's laid-back summer vibes and evokes images of sandy beaches, sunsets by the sea and days spent in nothing more than a bikini. But much like everything that bear's Vivienne Westwood's signature, there's a political statement to be read between the lines: 'Europa' is a continent in crisis, struggling to come to grips with the humanitarian crisis of mass migration, an issue that stains its reputation but somehow doesn't distract from its charm.
Legendary photographer Juergen Teller shot the campaign in Greece, with the picturesque white houses and blue waters serving as the perfect backdrop. Showcasing the garments as well as the scenery beautifully, Teller also managed to highlight the Mediterranean's grotesque facade with a mixture of sophistication and grunge very synonymous with the Vivienne Westwood brand.
Former sex-symbol Pamela Anderson features in the campaign providing a contrast that also links to the power of Mother Nature. The result is simple and delicious, just like a plate of spaghetti.
BILLIONAIRE Fall/Winter 2017: Texas under spotlights
Once upon a time, soap opera characters served as primary sources of style inspiration and this season Billionnaire by Philipp Plein travelled back in time to pick up the trend. Remember Dallas?
Set in Texas, the show reached cult phenomenon status and was Philipp Plein's moodboard for Fall/Winter 2017. The Billionnaire man is a wealthy and stylish globetrotter: skiing in Aspen and gambling in Monte Carlo. The collection reflects the attitude of a character that isn't shy about showing off his personality.
Snakeskin jackets, chinchilla bombers and full-length overcoats feature alongside astrakhan and crocodile skins as the ultimate statements of elegance whether on the slopes or in the city. Trousers are high-waisted and denim takes centre stage in trousers and double-breasted jackets.
From knitwear to eveningwear the attention to detail is meticulous, fully conveying Plein's references: classic Texan hat included!
Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2017: Between High Fashion and Mother Nature
The uneven fight between humans against a powerful and merciless nature is the chore of Jil Sander's latest collection that brings us an incredible taste of glacial novelty for the upcoming Fall/Winter season.
Inspired by 'Independent People' by Nobel Prize winning author Halldor Laxness, the collection plays with the colors of Icelandic landscapes ranging from chalk grey to yellow. Shades of ice, brown and lava are chosen to give life to coats, parkas, heavy felts and comfortable shapes designed to face the harsh temperatures of Nordic winter in style. Military cotton and heat-sealed waterproof wool make coats and blousons, put together by big Velcro stripes.The collection's prints are a new take on glitch art that plays with disintegrated images.
“Rather keep your mind free and your path your own”said Laxness, and Jil Sander looks to have learned the lesson perfectly.
Bottega Veneta and SCoP: when fashion supports art
Tomas Maier, Bottega Veneta’s creative director, has never hid his passion for art, making it a proper flagship of the Venetian brand’s attitude. Bottega Veneta showed for the first time its strong commitment to art and culture in 2001, when Maier introduced the “Art of Collaboration”: an ongoing project which invites photographers and visual artists in order to reflect brand’s aesthetic inside its campaigns.
This year the brand confirms its ever-lasting addiction to art, partnering with the Shanghai Centre of Photography in order to support four key international exhibitions hold at the most prestigious photography institute in China. SCoP is indeed considered worldwide the city’s very first place entirely dedicated to photography showcasing its best and diverse genres.
“Made in Germany: German photography from the 19th century to today” will be the first exhibition supported by Bottega Veneta. The projects will comprises an unparalleled selection of iconic masterpieces that together with contemporary examples will give an up-to-date and fresh touch to the entire exhibition.
The exhibition will run until April 2nd 2017
Louis Vuitton’s “Series 6”: between French theatricality and aesthetics
Paris with its romantic promenades sur la Seine it’s the star of “Series 6”, the new Spring/Summer 2017 advertising campaign by Louis Vuitton.
Like a flâneur, Bruce Weber, captured the allure of Nicolas Ghesquiere’s favourite heroines bringing back to life the atmosphere of artistic enthusiasm that typify the city of lights. Michelle Williams, Jennifer Connelly, Adèle Exarchpoulos and Sasha Lane become the modern inspirations for a reimagined Paris. The result portrays powerful silhouettes that comprise a collection of strongly cultural referred Parisian moments. The season’s handbags, the long jersey dresses and the tailored suit become characters in their own right, the perfect companions for these pictorial personalities.
“It is to this cultivated, intellectual, original and free-spirited Parisienne that I wanted to pay tribute” said Nicolas Ghesquière, the creative epicenter of nowadays French elegance.
VERSACE Spring/Summer 2017: enjoy the ride
Savagery and freedom have always been messages carried by Versace that since its birth thanks to its innovative ways of conceiving fashion has endlessly imposed its creative dynamism among the highest fashion brands.
From attitudes to backgrounds, the Spring/Summer 2017 campaign shot by Bruce Weber is the proper representation of what Versace has always meant in the haute couture. Conceived by artistic director Donatella Versace, the freedom and dynamism of summer and the active mood are perfectly encapsulated in these shoots. Models Edie Campbell, Anna Ewers, Mitchell Slaggert and Jake Lahrman, found themselves in the Kentucky countryside surrounded by horses, perfect symbols of this “freedom” collection.
Freedom of choice, freedom of expression and freedom of speech, These are the messages carried by this collection and Versace in general, because as Bruce Weber said: “it’s always interesting that fashion can carry messages in a subtle way and make people think about their own lives and how they can make it better.”
K•Swiss Turns Camo for its 50th anniversary
K•Swiss opted for a stylish celebration for its anniversary. The sportswear brand teamed up with Japanese street fashion label AAPE BY A BATHING APE to launch a limited edition collection.
For the occasion, the American tennis brand turns its classic '66 model into a fashionable camouflage sneaker featuring, its now famous, ape-inspired pattern. This makes for a fresh, new take on the brand's most iconic silhouette.
K•Swiss’ signature five stripes, classic D-rings and the unique three-piece toe design along with an all-covering printed pattern fuse together to creates a blend that reflects the DNA of both K•Swiss and AAPE.
Levi’s and JUGEND GEGEN AIDS: T-shirts with a good cause
On world’s AIDS day Levi’s decided not to stay in the corner, taking part together with the JUGEND GEGEN AIDS association to a special night that merged fashion, music and sexual education.
In order to make a difference and let young people feel close to the cause, the denim brand organized the “Night of Life” in association with DJs and starred chefs in order to turn a pool party at the Hamburg East Hotel into something unforgettable.
The ‘STOP AIDS’ sign was shown on black and white limited edition Levi’s T-shirts during the party, whose proceeds will go to the benefit association JGA that since years fight to create awareness around AIDS.
“Do what you want. Do it with love, respect and condoms”
Dior Homme presents the Black Carpet collection
Dior Homme launches today its Black Carpet menswear collection: a capsule of evening ready-to-wear pieces designed by the creative mind of Kris Van Assche.
Spring 2017 will see a perfect merge between the designer’s untamed-energetic style and Dior’s traditional codes. The atelier’s meticulous craftsmanship and attention to details will fuse creating rebellious, unexpected pieces from Dior’s signature slim-cut suits.
Prince of Wales or Houndstooth check will be interrupted by paint splashes woven into jacquard, velvet flocking and satin scars to give a complete new taste to fine wool tuxedos and t-shirts.
With innovative and unconventional techniques, Black Carpet, pairs the attitude of the runway with house’s know-how in order to push classical precision in to more extreme interpretations.
The TOUCH revolution by Replay
Rich and inviting fabrics, smoothness and stretch materials: the focal points of Replay's new disruptive jeans: TOUCH
The brand's revolutionary jeans promise to fulfill the needs of modern women by allowing them to feel comfortable, sexy and elegant in jeans that don't crease and are available in a selection of colors, washes and cuts.
The advertising campaign will feature supermodels Irina Shayk, Joan Smalls and Stella Maxwell personifying women going about their daily routines in order to highlight the practicality of Replay's TOUCH jeans range.
Palazzo Versace opens in Dubai
Italian luxury made a step forward with the grand opening of Palazzo Versace Hotel & Resort in the heart of Dubai Cultural Village, introducing the Milanese brand’s experience to the emirates.
After sixteen years, Versace has decided to give birth to its second resort property celebrating it with a grand opening event on November that was hosted by Donatella Versace herself. Donatella has exclusively designed the furniture and interiors for all 215 rooms, creating the ultimate luxury experience in the brand’s history.
Located on the foreshore of the Dubai Creek, this five-star property evokes the architecture of a 16th century Italian palace with traces of Arabian taste, featuring wonderful suites furnished with Versace Home Collection products, first-class spa and restaurants combining brand’s extravagant taste with the highest quality of service.
Straight from the Parisian runways, models like Alessandra Ambrosio, Helena Christensen and Natasha Poly among with Versace’s couturiers, personally presented their couture collection to the Emirates clientele. For this exclusive occasion, a portion of the orders has been donated from the brand to the Dubai Cares Organization to help improving primary education for children in developing countries.
Versace’s founder Donatella found herself amazed by the final result defining Palazzo Versace as a “truly luxury destination second to none in the world”.
Amsterdam welcomes Bottega Veneta
Bottega Veneta, the Italian fashion house renowned for its unparalleled craftsmanship and keen eye for detail, opens its much-anticipated first store in Amsterdam tonight. Located on 60, Pieter Cornelisz Hoofstraat, the two-floor store offers a wide selection of Bottega Veneta products: the brand's iconic bags and leather goods, the ready-to-wear collection as well as accessories for both men and women. An embodiment of Bottega Veneta's timeless elegance and refinement, the store's concept was designed by brand creative director, Tomas Maier and features an array of notable features guaranteed to provide visitors with a private and comfortable shopping experience.
Comme des Garçons Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear
There is a certain challenge overflowing when taking a look at Rei Kawakubo’s work. The naked message that actually she continues to profound through her clothes every season is pointing at only one direction: creativity avulse from compromising. Comme des Garçons Spring 2017 is exploring again the sense of human being itself. “Invisible clothes”, as Kawakubo stated in the show note. Clothes inside huge armoires, gargantuan silhouettes that allowed to pick what it looked like a pregnant belly, or just the eyes of the model. Like a cocoon where the hidden self resides. The sculptural garments sometimes fascinated with early renaissance had the power of overwhelming austerity. A black parade with moments of Kawakubo leitmotif: the crimson red, the ruffles, the polka dots.
Hermès Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear
In the few past seasons since her arrival at Hermès, Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski has been balancing elegant understatement and her continuous research of chromatic nuances alongside clean cuts, in search of that perfect balance true to one of the most classic French luxury maisons.
A relaxed, simple atmosphere — far from any decorative fuss. With no display of the iconic bags nor the famous carrés, Vanhee-Cybulski’s intention to put a strong focus to the clothes and her very own redefinition of the brand’s Ready-to-Wear was clear since the last collection in March.
For Spring 2017 we see again calf and floor length and splendid knitwear. The first looks in denim with faded pink tones feature a dress tapered at the waist, a silhouette also declined in fuchsia leather. This luxurious material, trademark of the house, is certainly one of the protagonist of the collection together with subtle reference to male wardrobe: relaxed high waist wide pants matched with blouses with ajour details or in silk cigaline, a calfskin coat made of assembled panels. All perfectly balanced.
The final bias cut long dresses make a fresh romantic entrance into the composed atmosphere. The new Hermès is taking shape.
Woolrich opens flagship store in Antwerp
Woolrich has opened its first Belgian store in Antwerp, the centre of design and fashion. This marks the beginning of the expansion of Woolrich across Europe, with 75 new stores opening over the next three years. The Woolrich store in Antwerp is located on the Schuttershofstraat, a new home for luxury brands. Its interior blends contemporary furnishing with classical Belgian traits, lending inspiration from creative director Masamichi Katayama, but sticking to Belgian heritage. The Creative Director Andrea Canè says: ”Woolrich has grown exponentially in Belgium in the few last years. The opening of a flagship store in this particular moment in time makes communication with our customer not only simpler but also direct and allows us to bring the world of Woolrich to Belgium.”
Christian Dior Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear
With this last fashion week ruled by new creative directors stepping in at the helm of historical French fashion houses, it goes without saying that the debut of Maria Grazia Chiuri for Dior — after almost a decade at the rein of Valentino together with Pier Paolo Piccioli — would have been waited with extreme anticipation.
The new Dior woman for Spring Summer 2017 is not afraid of showing her weaknesses, her romantic side - and why not — her unpredictable mood. Ruled by the moon. “La lune” (the moon) on a chunky grey wool sweater and the other tarots cards engraved on squared evening clutches, or intrinsically embroidered on evening gowns. They are all symbols of this new Dior, but also homage to the superstitious Christian Dior himself. The French master was obsessed with astrology and other myths of the occult, and certainly this collection wanted to be inspired by his legacy more in spirit than in form.
We saw that vocabulary that was once the signature of Chiuri and Piccioli for Valentino: transparency made of dreamlike sheer tulle in powder ivory, white, black, and a deep red, together with polka dots and precisely constructed bustiers. Underneath, the minimalist ironic men-like underwear marked with “Christian Dior, j’aDior” motto at the elastic waistband. It’s Maria Grazia’s Dior and no one else’s.
The slogan “We should all be feminists” on a t-shirt sounded more of a provocation than an admonition. This is not a woman who in the process of advocating gender equality renounce to womanhood in order to be a surrogate resemblance of her male counterpart – on the contrary she is embracing her femininity where feminism is the vehicle for empowering and liberation.
Maison Margiela Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear
When you pair a fashion house that has been the symbol of breaking the rules of conventional fashion and an irreverent genius mind, the result is just powerful. Maison Margiela Spring Summer 2017 collection designed by John Galliano is certainly the proof that the one between the English designer and the French fashion house is a match made in heaven.
Galliano produced a collection of contrasts, un-matching references, and a rebellious spirit that only few designers like Galliano can pull off these days. Just like Martin Margiela did in his glorious years.
Maison Margiela Spring Summer 2017 is a spectacular parade of superheroes out of a futuristic manga. A skirt adorned with broken CDs to create flower-like appliqués matched with a Scottish check blazer, a wet suit pulled down to form a dress, trench coats turned inside out where the lining forms a dress but that can be magically worn back as coat. Lace matched with see trough plastic lining, ruffled corsets and puffy Victorian sleeves.
The head pieces often like modern wet caps matched with hearings like a sort of Star Trek’s Spock brought a further look into Galliano’s game of double, of ambiguous, and surely of the intricate creative process that this incredible designer went through to reinterpret Maison Margiela’s identity. That’s just what we were all waiting for. Bravo John.
Bottega Veneta Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear
Muddy hues made their mark at Bottega Veneta but the overall effect was anything but beige. Rather, it primed a canvas of classics from which showpieces would pop. And there was good reason to call upon the party clothes; 2016 marks a special year for the brand, not only the 50th anniversary of the fashion house, but also its 15th year under the Creative Direction of Tomas Maier. In spirit of occasion, Maier’s forward-thinking retrospective featured more than a few familiar faces, from Eva Herzigova and Lauren Hutton to Bella and Gigi Hadid. As a performance piece it pleased crowds, but as a practice of the practicality of Bottega Veneta, it blew minds – it confirmed that which we had always supposed but never truly knew: Bottega makes clothes we can all wear – nuanced, transitional clothes which seem to shapeshift according to the spirit of the woman who wears them. SS17 sculpted supple shells of coffee-colored crocodile, swinging to calves as mackintosh coats or cropped as curt little bikers. Separates clung to the torso in flimsy wools, button-up blouses making a second skin of macramé as A-line skirts sheathed legs in shaggy sable lace. Color was rationed, but when it bled through the cracks, it blazed. Lurid contrasts courted hot pink yarns against waxy red leather skirts, cinched like paper bags at the waist, while ditsy florals found their way onto faded reams of lemon yellow cotton, bound and belted around the body as refreshingly modest wrap dresses. This tack’s been on the table for fifty years, but it’s a sensibility that hasn’t gone stale. Here’s to another half century…
Saint Laurent Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear
When in mid September Saint Laurent surprisingly released an image shot by Inez and Vinoodh as preview for the new collection by Antony Vaccarello the mood was already set. Featuring his forever favourite muse Anja Rubik in a leather embroidered body suit matched with a denim jacket and a strong sensual look the designer gave a taste of his new direction.
Vaccarello created a collection very much rooted in his DNA.: leather, sexy on its extreme, naked. As declared by the Belgian born designer himself, his point of reference, a puff shouldered dress designed by Yves in ’82, embraced the whole collection. It’s the trashy spirit of the 80s, the clubs, the black fishnet tights, the denim and the heart shaped neckline. Vaccarello declined it with bosom bared through transparent chiffon, velvet, dark gold lamé, vertiginous short skirts. Staging an homage to the French master but mainly surely drawing the line of what his new course for Saint Laurent — soon to be back with “Yves” in its logo as announced by the fashion house — will look like.
The Kurfürstendam in Berlin has welcomed the opening of the latest Ermenegildo Zegna store Inspired by architect Peter Marino’s creative vision for Zegna’s international stores, the brand’s in-house architects developed and created the new boutique. Its interior resembles a fuse of soft and structure, as its colour palette includes rosewood, mahogany as well as gun and bronze metal. Exclusively available in the Berlin store is the Su Misura service, offering the consumer the opportunity to select their preferred style, fabric and accessories.
Burberry Preview Straight-To-Consumer Collection Campaign
Shot by Mario Testino, Burberry reveals a preview of the latest advertising campaign, which will launch after the Burberry show at London Fashion Week on 19th September and will run until February 2017. The collection inspired by Virginia Woolf’s Orlando, contrasting with masculine and feminine styles, will be the brands first straight-to-consumer collection. Burberry Chief Creative and CEO Christopher Bailey says: “The changes we are making will allow us to build a closer connection between the experience that we create with our runway shows and the moment when people can physically explore the collections for themselves.” The campaign featuring British models Jean Campbell, Alex Dragulele and Swim Deep bass guitarist Cavan McCarthy is shot at the Walker Art Gallery in Liverpool, a historic scenery for the upcoming collection.
Kobe Bryant at Nike Amsterdam Headquarters
“Mamba is back”, Mr Bryant says as he walks up on stage at the Nike Headquarters in Amsterdam. The recently retired NBA-player performed his last game on April 13th at the Staples Centre and ended his basketball career with an amazing 60 points, which he said was to bring excitement to the game and make people, including himself, forget it was his last. At a young age, he decided to start playing for the NBA, as he wanted to learn from the best, and it worked out brilliantly. Only 19 years old, he played against basketball legend Michael Jordan.
Being opposite Jordan didn’t scare him, but made him realize how good he had to practice to get to his level. During the half-hour Q&A Bryant talks more about growing up in Italy, coach Phil Jackson being the person he learned the most from and of course his on-going collaboration with Nike. As Bryant is very much involved in the process and design of the shoes, he will continue to innovate, find new and better materials, which should result in the best performance for athletes. There won’t be an acting career in the near future, but Kobe Bryant has a desire to inspire millions, by telling his story.
Woolrich John Rich & Bros. Fall/Winter 2016 Campaign
Woolrich John Rich & Bros. returns to where the brand started in 1830 in its latest Fall/Winter 2016 campaign, as they collaborate with conceptual photographer Jackie Nickerson and work on a Roadtrip project, shot in the historic Woolen Mills, Pennsylvania. The America-born brand is founded on tradition and adaption, proved in the images being shot in and around Woolen Mills, showing the brands’ signature manufacturing process and standards between industrial production, nature and social responsibilities, while also being innovative with modern outerwear.
CHANEL Fall/Winter 2016/17 Campaign
Karl Lagerfeld has created collages mixing up emoticons, pearls and coloured fabrics for the CHANEL Fall/Winter 2016/17 campaign. The impulsive images reflect a modern energy with models adorned in pearls, styled with riding boots and the BOY CHANEL bag. Sophistication is added through its knitwear, embellished with eyelets and badges. The brands classic attitude collides with a new, vibrant creative direction. On this decision Lagerfeld told WWD; “I was tired of girl holding a bag. – I wanted to do something else that we have never done before.”
"Watching Water" John Elliott SS17
A mirrored pool as runway, DJ Lee Bannon playing the soundtrack in collaboration with Boiler Room. At the SKYLIGHT CLARKSON SQ, John Elliott presents Spring Summer 2017 Watching Water, styled by Eugene Tong. Elliott says he has matured as a designer and so have his curiosities, one of them being understanding the idea of luxury. “One element of curiosity that was left untouched is the idea of understanding luxury. As a child, when I would think of what the idea of luxury is, I would envision the obvious status symbols – vacationing on an island, laying on a beach, or cruising on a yacht. For this season I took the literal approach of what you might need when you are Watching Water, and I let this idea infect me”. The collection blends smart and street wear, tailored trousers and bomber jackets, with a vibrant colour palette of crisp whites, cobalt blues and a range of greens. As Elliott expands his repertoire, he introduces bright eyewear and includes vintage Nike Aqua Socks on the runway for selected looks.
Dolce & Gabbana Alta Moda Show FW16
A collection inspired by Italian actress Sophia Loren, Naples and tradition, Domenico Dolce reveals. The Dolce & Gabbana collection is shown on the streets in the middle of old Naples. A white satin cincture hung across the body, Miss Eleganza sewn in gold, a hint to how Ms. Loren first started out; in a provincial beauty contest. The collection includes shapely pencils skirts, wavy hems and fitted suits, all in true Dolce & Gabbana manner. The looks are completed with flower, heart and bow embellished headgear, and induced with some humor; one of the satin soccer shirts reads Maradona 10 on the back.
Maison Margiela Artisanal Fall 2016
John Galliano has a much more personal understanding of Maison Margiela for its Artisanal Fall 2016, in which he experiments with a different take on haute couture. “A sense of the incredible and the impossible spins throughout the Artisanal collection, where fantasy is tempered by the jarring authenticity of today’s reality.” A satin orangza dress is draped around the models body, printed with Nick Knight’s British Birds (2008) styled with a cycling top, arctic blue gloves and dark brown clogs, her headpiece resembling a string of seashells. Another model is dressed in an upside down orange coat, worn over a navy shift dressed, paired with rubber-soled thigh-high black ‘Tabi’ boots.
Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2016 Campaign
Jil Sander reveals the Fall/Winter 2016 Campaign starring Australian model Julia Nobis and up-and-coming model Jonas Gloër. Photographed by Willy Vanderperre and styled by Olivier Rizzo, the shoot took place in Paris, city of couture fashion. Vanderperre portrays Jil Sander’s minimalist aesthetic beautifully in a series of striking images.
WALTZ Autumn/Winter 2016
San Francisco based women’s wear brand WALTZ’ Autumn/Winter collection for 2016 is available now. Primarily hued in oxblood, rust and midnight blue, the choice in colour palette gives the collection its autumnal feel. The collection includes timeless pieces and wardrobe staples, garments that are versatile and essential. Founded by Danielle Colen, WALTZ is a brand embracing comfort and ease in its designs, with a prominence in quality fabrics and tailoring. WALTZ is influenced by menswear silhouettes and Colen’s affection towards the East Coast, whilst also maintaining a feminine touch and blending California’s mellow vibes.
Bottega Veneta Autumn/Winter 2016 Campaign
Models Simon Fitskie and Rianne Van Rompaey shine in the latest Bottega Veneta Autumn/Winter 2016 Campaign, shot by Dutch photographer Viviane Sassen in Sicily, Italy. The collections dark yet dynamic colour palette consisting of royal red, peacock blue and black bounces off beautifully of the paleness of the background, artistic landscape Grande Cretto Gibellina of Italian artist Alberto Burri, which is in glistening white cement. Burri created the Grande Cretto as a monument for the village Giberllina when an earthquake completely destroyed the town in 1968.
MBFW: Marina Hoermanseder S/S 2017
Dressing her models in three-dimensional garments, Marina Hoermanseder’s S/S 2017 collection at the Berlin Fashion Week reminds of playing dress-up with dolls. Glossy dresses resemble the perfection found in the bodies of plastic puppets. The finishing dress of the collection is definitely the highlight – it looks like the glossy body of a mannequin, a bare body showing breasts and a belly button. A tiny waist and wide hips lead into a stiff knee-length skirt, scalloped at the back and heavily encrusted with a mix of red and white diamonds. The bejeweled dress and corsets are not the only eccentric extra. Butterfly applications on shiny leather tops and dresses give the impression that butterflies are more drawn to settling on a beautiful dress than on a flower.
Some tops are made entirely out of frilly flower applications. There is a girly and playful feel to the collection. It is an interesting progression from last year’s summer collection. Similar straps and belts are still essential elements of coats and dresses, but this time the skirt made entirely out of straps wrapping around the model's legs is boasting of a powerful pink and neon orange. Fiery red, neon peach and hot pink are combined with baby blues and creme colours. Pleated mini skirts and wide legged 3/4 trousers are key to the collection. Neon collars spice up dress shirts. A shiny bomber jacket in a bright orange offers an option for summery outerwear. The plastic feel of the garments is what makes them stand out.
GOETZE SS17 Collection
Boyish youth, styled manhood, and reworked casualwear - GOETZE's SS17 collection conveys all of these sensibilities. The collection adapts the forms and silhouettes taken from athletic apparel, while placing emphasis on the functionality that materials like mesh and poplin bring to the clothing. The tone of the pieces reinforce the light and active nature of the apparel, with palettes of sea blue, sky blue, navy and anthracite that note the light, active touch specified for this collection. Founded by Sissi Goetze following her completion of her studies at Central St. Martins in London in 2011, and shortened to GOETZE in 2016, GOETZE was formed around an ongoing exploration of unique formal and casual sensibilities within essential menswear items. Restraining her output to variations of men's shirts, pants and jackets, each collection considers the creative potential within limitation, utilizing material in a gestural nod towards both functional aesthetics and minimalist design. GOETZE fuses historical precedents of menswear with everyday aspects of contemporary masculinity, taking inspiration from both athletic apparel and casual wear.
BERLIN FASHION: IVANMAN SPRING 2017
Designer Ivan Mandzukic started his brand in 2010 and is definitely a force to be reckoned with. Main inspiration for IVANMAN Spring/Summer 2017, shown at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin, is the 80s German film Baghdad Café. The latest IVANMAN collection provides, just as in the film, a collision of modernity, tradition and clashing world views. The garments are styled in layers, with long shirtsleeves poking out of jacket sleeves. The collection has structured jackets, classic cuts in trousers and tops and is contemporary in its choice of colours, as the blush, turquoise and white colour palette give a real sense of spring.
PFW: Kenzo Spring/Summer 2017
Cool kids squads. Humberto Leon and Carol Lim presented a collection once again inspired by their youth, growing up in LA and its West coast disco scene. The models arrived in packs. There was a lot of that grungy and rave look of the 90s. Departing from the Japanese tune of last season we see an explosion of youthful energy. In a badass attitude the model's walked the runway with high waist pants and shorts in nylon look a like textiles matching tops and shirt and often underwear pulled up above the waist with prints recalling the flyers promoting the artists of the time. Relaxed oversized coats and short jacket but also rain capes with hoodies underneath. Black and white but also lemon and cerulean blue. The collection shouted a multitude of personalities and styles, the freedom of youth.
PFW: VALENTINO SPRING 2017
Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli revealed that for the Valentino Spring 2017 collection they were inspired by the “Unfinished: Thoughts Left Visible” exhibition at the Met Breuer in New York, as it allows to see the artists’ development and creative process. This translated into the collection with some of the garments not being finished too, as thread hung from printed knits and stitches were loose. Nevertheless, this made for a selection of structured, luxurious appare. Military and camouflage colours as well as silhouettes start off the show which develops into denim and blue ensembles.
PFW: HERMES SPRING 2017
On the chart of fashion where every party tries to dictate the "extraordinary " and the "new", Hermès 's Mens director Véronique Nichanian focus on the essential and its unlimited power. Slim, simple, effortless are the key words for a collection entirely focused on a multitude of subtle details like only the house of Hermès knows how to. Sleek trousers combined with acid lemon t-shirt , hazelnut leather bomber jackets or architectural minimal coats in faint grey. Beautiful silk shirts and knits with tie - dye motifs together with relaxed sporty sandals indulge the atmosphere. Hermès's man once again plays a cool and elegant attitude.
Our Interview with Ancient Greek Sandal
Keep your eyes peeled for this sandal brand inspired by ancient Greek mythology and architecture, hence the name Ancient Greek Sandal. We met up with the Co-founder and designer of AGS, Christina Martini who started up the business with CEO and Co-Founder Nikolas Minoglou.
What is the philosophy of your brand?
Handmade sandals made from good quality leather in Greece inspired by Ancient Greece. Sandals have a raw yet feminine aesthetic, which would age well with time and wear.
What are the trends for this season that AGS suggest?
Bohemian and embellished lace up sandals with semi precious stones, glass beads, turquoise and corals. In addition to this, we have collaborated with the Mexican brand CARAVANA designing the ‘Tulum Collection’ which are iconic AGS sandals decorated with hand-painted feathers. Our collaboration with LALAoUNIS is also out, a precious collection of six bejeweled styles inspired by the powerful symbol of snake.
Why did you choose the ancient Greek civilization and what is attractive about that?
Because it’s in my blood! At school all Greek students get taught Mythology and Ancient Greek history and I was always fascinated by the visits in museums or archaeological sites. When I was young I wanted to become an archaeologist. Ancient Greek Sandals are inspired by the Ancient Greek mythology, art, architecture, jewelry and everything that is connected with that era. The inspiration is unlimited.
What are the materials you use?
Although the construction is made in Greece, all our raw materials come from Italy. For the uppers we mostly use vegetable tan leather whereas for the insoles and soles we use a thicker skin. For each collection we try to introduce new exciting materials such as the sunbeam snake or pony skin, stamped crocodile but also synthetic materials such as the glitter, fabrics such as the denim for S/S16.
Who are the celebrities that love AGS and what they love about them?
Michelle Williams was the first to wear the sandals in 2012 and since then a lot of actresses have followed, such as Naomi Watts, Anne Hathaway, Diana Kruger, models Gigi Hadid and Gisele Bundchen and singers like Rihanna and Beyoncé. I think like every other woman who wears AGS sandals; they value the simplicity of design, femininity, quality and comfort.
You designed shoes for Balenciaga and Louis Vuitton before setting up your own brand.
What did working for those big fashion houses teach you?
I don’t think that I would have set up my own brand if I didn’t work for these two huge fashion houses. First of all the technical knowledge, a big part of my job was to be at the factories in Italy and follow the making of the prototypes so I got to witness how the most luxurious shoes in the world were made, I learnt the different leather qualities and the shoe constructions. I also learnt a lot from the marketing team how to form a complete shoe collection that makes sense to the customer on the shop floor.
What is the ideal outfit matched with ancient Greek sandals?
Anything really, from a wedding dress to jeans shorts and from a long bohemian kaftan to a little black dress.
In which place in the world do you think AGS fit ideally?
Anywhere the sun shines!
G-Star RAW Research X Aitor Throup
During Paris Men’s Fashion week, G-Star RAW has revealed it’s newest, most leading capsule-collection yet; G-Star RAW Research, in collaboration with artist Aitor Throup. When speaking about the collaboration, Throup explains he began collaborating after realizing the brands success comes from taking risks and questioning traditions of denim. After a few years of working together, naturally the brand and Throup came up with the idea to open a lab and explore new possibilities for all things denim.
Thus creating G-Star RAW Research. Aitor Throup has been working with G-Star on various projects and collections, since becoming its creative consultant back in 2014. This collection explores two points of development in the process of denim, one untreated, RAW denim, one bleached white with nearly no indigo left. The first G-Star RAW Research-capsule collection will be available in limited stores mid-November this year.
WOOLRICH SPRING/SUMMER 2017
Woolrich John Rich & Bros have for the Spring/Summer 2017 collection created a line-up with casual, organic apparel, blending two worlds together – The outdoors, a fishermen look with matching hat and wellies, and a city look with hints of sport and utility wear. The collection envisions garments which can shift through seasons, instead of being tied to one period. Its jackets are light, water-resistant and breathable, something every man needs. The collection is inspiration for the Woolrich E-bike, a bicycle developed in collaboration with Australian brand Deus.
MFW: GUCCI SPRING 2017
“We shall not cease from exploration, and the end of all our exploring will be to arrive where we started and know the place for the first time.” T.S. Eliot
Alessandro Michele. Bravo. The Gucci Spring/Summer 2017 is as close someone can portray a dream as it gets. The collection portrays travelling, exploring the world, gaining knowledge and coming back to a different ‘home’. The soundtrack feels dreamlike, the runway floor is painted green with snake print, the collection a kaleidoscopic affair. The collection sees Donald Duck embroidered on fitted blazers and floral patterned suits, a merge of modernity and nostalgia.
MFW: MARNI SPRING 2017
Consuelo Castiglioni is often praised for her progressive and refined designs; Marni’s Menswear Spring 2017 is no different. The collection perfectly suits a quirky, businessman aesthetic, making for a show full of modern and dynamic designs. Rich red leathers are introduced in the form of trench coats, camel suits are included for the sophisticated Marni man, while the blue striped prints keep the collection young. Accessorized with both backpacks, briefcases and stylized sunglasses, Consuelo Castiglioni did good, Marni Spring 2017 is a winner.
MFW: ETRO SPRING 2017
Instead of the usual pout, models for the Etro Spring 2017 collection walk down the runway with a smile. And a dog, which instantly makes this show a success. Creative Director Kean Etro scouted the predominately non-professional models walking the runway himself and gave them the opportunity to decide for themselves what they’d like to wear. The collection feels fresh but casual, with loose-fitting tops and trousers along with tribal prints and dark hues.
Pal Zileri Fall/Winter 2016/17
Pal Zileri Fall/Winter 2016-17 advertising campaign channels the house’s new mood, direction and elegance with a balance of tradition and edge. Pal Zileri chose world-famous ballet dancer Sergei Polunin to front the images shot by photographer Maciek Kobielski on location in Williamsburg, NY.
The Ukraine-born Polunin fully expresses Pal Zileri’s current identity and message with his balance of dramatic flair, strict artistic rigor and unconventional spirit. The new campaign is thriving to exalt talent with an unexpected twist. Soaked by a strong lighting, a fresh-faced and intense Polunin strikes relaxed poses framed by steel grids, modern props and a tonal palette of grays and deep blue that set off a contemporary atmosphere with an industrial touch. His bold and tattooed attitude adds character to Pal Zileri’s key fall looks, a mix of tailored pieces, luxe sportswear and exclusive details.
WUNDERKIND x Les Petits Joueurs
Eye –catching and playful designs that are spotted in the hands of it-girls and celebrities worldwide consist the new WUNDERKIND x Les Petits Joueurs handbag capsule collection by the Italian accessories designer Maria Sole Cecchi. Maria Sole is one of the young talents invited by Wolfgang Joop to interpret his vision of the WUNDERKIND style for Fall/Winter 2016. The collection marks the beginning of a series of design collaborations with young emerging talents.
The exclusive handbag range with fun details, bold statements and quirky geometric patterns translate the spirit of the WUNDERKIND Fall/Winter 2016 collection at its best. Janis is a compact size clutch in printed fur, which recalls the WUNDERKIND African wax print just like the Daliah Bucket with its embellished stars and studs. Exquisitely crafted in Tuscan leather, Jackie turns a classical luxury handle bag into a humorous statement piece. Handmade by skilled Florentine artisans utilizing exceptional materials the three models elevate all day-to-night ensembles
THE ART OF BANKSY To Open In Amsterdam
THE ART OF BANKSY exhibition will open from the 18th June until the 30th September, marking as the biggest display celebrating the British graffiti artist’s work and showing more than 85 of his creations. The curator is Steve Lazarides, Banksy’s former agent and friend, who with a team of 80 has been collating his work for over a year. Although the man behind the art has still yet to be exposed, his work is globally recognized expressing funny, satirical and political messages. As his work is placed outdoors, the passer-by and spectator is left to appreciate and reflect. The infamous drawings ‘Girl and Balloon’ and ‘Laugh Now’ will also be situated at the exhibition, based at the Beurs van Berlage in Amsterdam.
LC:M Lou Dalton
White socks and sandals. The ultimate fashion faux pass made acceptable during Lou Dalton’s show at London Collections: Men. Dalton found inspiration from her personal life for this collection, as she revealed she was influenced by the walks her brother and she used to have up the Yorkshire Moors when she was young. This collection includes nylons jackets and airy cottons, suitable for said walks. A couple of models wear a back-to-front bag on their chests, which is also handy whilst on a hike. The colour story is also appealing, going from dark navy and blacks to rich reds, yellows and stripes. It’s a practical collection, but beautiful none the less. Dalton collaborated with knitwear company John Smedley with a line of jumpers, featured in the line-up, immediately available after the show.
LC:M Topman Design
London Collections Men kicked off last week with launch parties introducing the four-day event on Thursday. Friday, Topman Design was the first to present their Spring/Summer 2017 collection. The line-up was a mixture of trends and styles, lead by pastel colours. Models appeared with wet hair and sun burnt cheeks, jumpers and shorts were embellished with ice creams, dolphins and palm trees, hinting to a tropical aesthetic and the idea of unwinding by the pool.
EA7 Emporio Armani For Olympics 2016
The Rio Olympics and Paralympics are only a few months away and it’s just been revealed EA7 Emporio Armani will be the official outfitter of the competing Italian Team. The new advertising campaign has now been launched, shot by Serge Guerand, in the beautiful Canary island Fuerteventura. Models Penny Lane and Pietro Boselli show off the sportswear line in a series of striking images, posing energetic and with their passion for the sport sparking from their eyes. The collection also features accessories and eyewear, which is available for purchase at Emporio Armani stores.
Fifth Edition Unseen Photo Fair
The fifth edition of Unseen Photo Fair is coming to Amsterdam this September. Unseen Photo Fair will display never before seen artworks of new and established photographers, such as Isaac Julien, Anton Corbijn and Antoine d’Agata, in Westergasfabriek, Amsterdam. 53 galleries and more than 150 artists from across the globe will be exhibiting during the fair. As well as this, there's a on-site programme filled with debates, readings and various activities. A week before the fair, Unseen Festival will kick off for its second edition and is located in Spaarndammerbuurt. Unseen is proud to announce it's curators for their campaign this year as being art-duo Christto Sanz & Andrew Weir. While from completely different backgrounds [Puorto Rico & South Africa] their work compliments each other, they two both have a stylised and colourful approach to creating their art in which they question the identity of today's society. The Unseen Photo Festival will be running from 16th - 25th September, the Photo Fair from 23rd - 25th of September.
Peuterey Fall/Winter 16/17
Peuterey is a brand drawing on its stylish utilitarian heritage and sensing an epochal shift in the way real people react to it. It is an advocate for reality telling. Peuterey’s collection for Fall/Winter 2016-2017 focuses on personality and product. Piercing portraits and street shots are layered onto images of urban environments, suggesting an iconic melange that triggers the visual sensibility of the digital-savvy generation.
The campaign will debut in June with a maxi-billboard placed in Piazza della Repubblica, Florence. International brand ambassadors such as Blake Lively, Olivia Palermo, Jhoannes Huebl, Derek Blasberg, Sarah Jessica Parker, Amanda Seyfried, Aaron Paul , Felicity Jones, Tom Hanks, Leaf Greener, Jennifer Lopez and many more will further bring the message to a real audience. It will actually and factually hit the shop floor, both online and offline, with the collection distributed via top US department stores such as Neiman Marcus, Bloomingdale’s, Barneys, Saks Fifth Avenue and leading stores worldwide such as Tsum. The brand targets also on the creation of dedicated partnerships, such as the collaboration with Miroslava Duma/Buro247 on a special jacket.
The campaign is shot by renowned lensmen Mert Alas & Marcus Piggott, art directed by Giovanni Bianco and featuring models Marjan Jonkman and Filip Hrivnak whose unconventional beauty is fine tuned by a cast of top innovators of all ages. The campaign has a honest tone that contextualizes clothing within the frame of real life.
New Acne Studios store reflects the individuality of Munich
The contemporary Munich today is mixing innovation with tradition and this is reflected to the new Acnes Studios store in Maximilianspllatz, Munich.
The store follows the codes of the new Acne Studios store concept, using signatures such as stainless steel walls and bespoke fittings and furniture to create an individual destination.
The large, light filled location is viewed through a series of windows, the store itself acting as if a window display.
As with each new Acne Studios store, the décor feels as if it has been placed in the location. The original ceiling can be seen through the bespoke LED light fixtures, which run in straight lines to emphasize the breadth of the space. Contrasting textures are key, with both stainless steel walls and concrete reflected in a mirrored corner box that houses the fitting rooms. Bespoke furniture has been created for the store by long term collaborator Max Lamb. A large mirror leaning against a wall and stainless steel rails on wheels contribute to the purposefully improvised feel. This is the fourth Acne Studios store in Germany, following its Potsdamer Straße location in Berlin which opened in October 2015.
John Varvatos Opening of First Moscow Store
John Varvatos celebrated the opening of the John Varvatos Moscow store, making it the brand's 25th retail store globally. The party that took place in Crocus City Mall included a star-studded, black carpet arrival and rock star-worthy VIP party, featuring a special live performance by the legendary Russian rock band, Bi-2. The guests had the chance to experience an authentic rock concert that celebrated Russian and American culture, music and fashion.
Many Russian celebrities and personalities came out to celebrate the store’s opening. Among the A-list guests were the Russian singer-songwriter and businessman Emin Agalarov, and his father, billionaire entrepreneur, Aras Agalorov. Also, actor Pavel Tabakov, singer Ani Lorak, singer/television entertainer Inna Malikova, singer Anna Sedokova and other VIP personalities from Russian entertainment, show business, cinema, theater and fashion. Immediately after the live music performance, the celebration continued with an after party at the exclusive Rose Bar, where guests were treated to a special and thrilling fire performance including juggling, baton twirling, poi spinning, fire breathing and eating, and fireworks display.
The new store is meticulously curated with an emphasis on delivering the full John Varvatos offering, highlighting distinctively sophisticated yet versatile wardrobe selections that are ideal for dressier outings, and fit seamlessly into the lifestyle of stylish men everywhere.
The new store hosts the full spectrum of the brand's offerings, including John Varvatos Collection, John Varvatos Star U.S.A. and Converse by John Varvatos.
Louis Vuitton Pre-Fall 2016
Daring and self-confident is Louis Vuitton’s woman as appears in the Pre-Fall 2016 Travel campaign. Louis Vuitton launches the Capucines and the City Steamer handbags and gives the handbags’ trend for the fall. The City Steamer bags come in new colors like black and pink with Burgundy piping and Black and White with honey brown handle. Even though The Steamer was first created in 1901 and it was the first supple bag, today’s modern heroine loves it since it has become a true city bag. The second handbag model we saw in pre-fall 2016 collection of Louis Vuitton is the Capucines; red and black leather as well as pink crocodile leather are the colours and materials that the firm suggests for Capucines bags. The Capucine is a discreetly elegant new signature bag that incarnates the Maison and its know-how. Both handbag collections take pride of place in Louis Vuitton’s Travel campaign. Photographer Patrick Demarchelier, has captured the dynamic profile of today’s woman in the face of the actress and Louis Vuitton’s new muse Léa Seydoux. Louis Vuitton campaigns continue their architectural journey by setting this last campaign in the Ranch, a building designed by the Mexican architect Luis Barragan.
Lady Dior: As Seen By...Travels the World
Exhibitions all over the world are beyond captivating, but at some point, those who see one piece interpreted by a range of artists are actually the most fun to attend. There is something intriguing about the speculation what an artist might make of something, along with a refreshing twist given in each art piece. Dior jumped on this train of excitement by hosting their traveling exhibition “Lady Dior: As Seen By”, with its last stop to date made at the Langen Foundation in Düsseldorf. The display sees different artists, from Olympia Scarry to Katharina Sieverding, display their vision of the notorious Lady Dior bag. Glass creations stand next to wall art set in space; some artist focus on the bag handle, some melt the whole piece down. As Seen By initially kicked off in Shanghai in 2011 and has been traveling the world since. Until it moves to the next city, maybe consider what your take on the famous bag would be...we'd already have a list with ideas at the ready.
CHANEL Spring/Summer 2016 Eyewear Campaign
Cara Delevingne may have stopped walking the big runways, but she still has some of her modeling duties in mind – especially, if they involve her close friend Karl Lagerfeld. The British model stars in the new CHANEL eyewear campaign, which was teased by a flashing video released a few weeks ago. While the bespoke visualization presented a pair of unique CHANEL sunglasses adorned by a laser-cut quilt design, the campaign now shows a collection enhanced by more optics and sunglasses from the Plein and Bijou 2016 ranges. The Plein collection revisits models in a tie-dye optic, merging the colors from black to blue or white in the frame acetate. Bijou on the other hand focuses on a CHANEL code classic, the timeless camelia. Made from metal and enamel, it adorns the glasses in an abundance on their legs. Next to eyewear, the campaign also sees Delevingne sporting pieces from the CHANEL AIRLINES Ready-to-wear collection. A tweed cap and jacket and a grosgrain ribbon-bowed top complete her urban and contemporary CHANEL look, subtracting the need for a logo on the campaign pictures. Even if Miss Delevingne has abandoned the runways, we're still glad she makes time for her fashion friends – especially, if it's Karl Lagerfeld.
Saint Laurent Fall/Winter 2016
When Hedi Slimane let loose his Fall menswear collection about a month ago, nobody knew what he had in store. Going back, we remember glittering cowboy vibes, 70s rockstar inspirations, tight pants and booties, presented in a gloomy setting at Los Angeles' Palladium. Back then, Slimane not only showcased menswear looks, but also “Part 1” of his womenswear collection, which featured similar vibes to the men's designs. Fast forward to now, again, nobody knew what the designer had in store for the womenswear sequel. Revealed on Monday during Paris Fashion Week, the Fall/Winter designs distance themselves from the rocking hobo-vibes of L.A. and transfer the mood to the glittering scene of the 1980s. In an old-fashioned Parisian residence, Slimane presented glam-bam designs that overdo everything just as great as the 80s did. Shoulders are oversized to enormous measures, silhouettes are distorted by big bows creating asymmetry and an overall is reborn in an top-to-bottom sequin look. Additionally: an 80s woman was no catch without a belt, so Slimane adds the big-buckled waist slimmer to his range and matches it with pointy heels. Fashionistas and historians may discover references to the grand Mr. Saint Laurent himself, but it's Slimane's own demand for surprise that puts a frame on this collection. Maybe, next time, the 90s will be the centre of his inspiration. Until then, we'll dance the night away in these bedazzling designs. Are you ready?
John Galliano Fall/Winter 2016/17
The expression of “mix and match” usually recalls bright colors, eccentric patterns and wild fabric combinations. This might well be the case with many brands, but not with John Galliano.
For their latest Fall/Winter collection, the brand applied the “mix and match” theme, but with strict limitation to expression (one thing the Galliano name usually is not known for).
On the runway, viewers saw subtly stunning looks, created from a mixture of femininity and its counterpart, with dresses playing as big as a part as masculine shirts and blazers. It is the thought-out combination of pieces that gives this collection it's identity - it's the Galliano form of mix and match.
This season, Galliano is where the satin dress meets high-top sneakers, where the regalia-embellished jacket is teamed with see-through skirts, where Sporty Spice meets Jane Austen. Regarding the color palette, the search for bold and flashing tones will yield no results. The fabric selection is equally as toned-down and patterns are rather sprinkled than plattered. With John Galliano, it's a mixture - and it matches.
Lemaire Fall/Winter 2016
At Paris' École de Medecin, the presentation of Lemaire's Fall/Winter designs had a clean spirit to it. Not, as one may conclude, as in white doctor gowns and sterile objects (due to the choice of location), but clean in a sensual and stylish way, paying tribute to past decades with only so little references. This collection was basically just black-and-cream white, there is no other way of putting it. Once every now and then, a splash of color in a shoulder strap bag or a boxy, grey jacket may interrupt the monochrome, but overall, Christophe Lemaire and his work/life-partner Sarah Linh-Tran stuck to the simple aesthetic. There were button rows that remind of dotted lines in documents, subtle pleats and not-so-subtle puffy sleeves on knitted sweaters (here chimes in the Elizabethan reference). Limitedly messy hairstyles emphasized the nonchalant attitude, while the models' strut down the catwalk still emphasized the core confidence to this collection. For Lemaire, this Fall/Winter 2016 is wrapped, or, to put it medically, operation complete.
Attilo Giusti Leombruni Fall/Winter 2016/17, Maggie Gyllenhaal by Bryan Adams
For Italian shoe brand Attilio Giusti Leombruni, the recipe to a high-quality campaign is quite short. All it takes are three ingredients: a stunning actress as testimonial, a high-profile photographer and – of course – the perfect pair of shoes. For their new Fall/Winter 2016 visuals, the brand tapped actress Maggie Gyllenhaal to present the latest designs, shot by no other than ZOO's Bryan Adams. Black-and-white snaps see Gyllenhaal dressed in nothing but the footwear and a plain black sweater, adding to the minimalistic touch of this particular campaign. The two models presented, a mid-heeled bootie featuring an eclectic flower print and a pair of shiny, black over-knee boots also hint at the collection's diversity. With this campaign, AGL's Creative Director Vera Giusti is more than glad to reveal “a new image of the brand expressing elegance and refined luxury through the aesthetic sensibility of Bryan Adams and the intense femininity of Maggie Gyllenhaal“. We're glad that AGL's recipe to a good campaign is so short – as it is defnitely one to take note from. The campaign is a creation between AGL, Bryan Adams and ZOO Studio.
Moschino Fall/Winter 2016
It seems like after seasons of blazing colours, logo prints fast food and toy designs, Jeremy Scott has found another way to express himself. His latest Moschino Fall/Winter collection is no shy one, but definitely a retreat from the bold and buzzing statements made in the last seasons. This collections is more of an outlook back on Pop culture: it's a little Madonna, in the 80s, a little of the 2000s, a bit of Kate-Moss-street style from 2010. That speaks for the first half of the collection, at least. After half of the looks have vanished from the runway, eccentric Scott is back on track. Burning ball gowns alluding to the 15th century find their climax in a design that sports a larger-than-life chandelier that surprisingly is not the show finale. That, in fact, is maybe more Scott himself, as he struts down the runway trough the gold-framed show scenery. One thing's for sure: with Moschino, boredom is eradicated from the dictionary. He is the one to open doors to his own underground club, where Madonna, Kate Moss and all the other faces party until dawn. Or until their dresses burn. That is, if they haven't before.
Fay Fall/Winter 2016
When we think of cowgirls, the outdated cliché that most likely pops to mind is pink fringes, hot pants and knotted check blouses. Fay’s Fall/Winter collection has none of that. At Milan Fashion Week, the outerwear label presented a collection that was designed for the cool cowgirl, the one that rocks a hoedown with understatement instead of on a mechanic bull. With a color palette very much sticking to blacks, dark blues, greys and browns, the collection is ready to be worn not only in the desert but on the city sidewalk. However, it's not all gloomy western with Fay-designers Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi. Shifty floral dresses that end mid-thigh release the collection of its seriousness and add a light and very, say, “western chic”. Between that, the designs also feature allusions to other cultures, with vaguely aztec patterns reminding of even more southern inspirations. The finishing touch comes in form of glittering, fringed and embroidered party dresses, taking the selection from the saloon to the salon. Slip into one of Fay's new designs and we'll bet you, you'll never get that odd cowgirl cliché again.
Emilio Pucci F/W 16
With a green coat and a striped jacket, Emilio Pucci started its Milan Fashion Week show quite subtle. One look later though, the Italian brand went in for the big bang - and that speaks for the rest of the show. This season, no piece at Pucci goes without pattern, without fluorescent colours or newly assembled stripes. Starting with patterns that in their design recall mountaintops, the collection then went to full-on patterned looks, from chevron stripes meeting modern-art-inspired colour blocking to a mixture of camouflage and flower power creating a whole new look. Shiny tops blazing the brand name in its classic writing break up this potpourri of patterns, while plain coloured coats also give the eye a break. Emilio Pucci went in for the big bang, but we don’t mind, since that mountaintop pattern looked so good, we’re definitely fancying a ski trip now.
Photos: Monica Feudi
Mulberry F/W 16
She is a bright student, broody in her own melancholy, surrounded by heavenly pearl shimmer, a dark romantic at heart. Poetic words define the latest collection by British label Mulberry. This by no means is capriciousness, but lies in the inspiration of the brand's new creative director Johnny Coca. For his first Mulberry F/W creations, the designer was inspired by no other than William Shakespeare. It's his ability to capture every stream of society, from royalty to nobody that Coca admires and therefore translated into his new collection, along with inspiration from the contrast of London streets. The result is a clothing range defined by contradictions. Sharp tailoring meets pure femininity; soft pleats are fused with bold cuff details. Johnny Coca is testing his limits, but always holds onto the British soul. Majestic, big-collared capes go along soft tulle dresses and luxury knitwear. Details such as an overload of rings allude to royal influences, while on the other hand variously sized buttons suggest functionality. May the poetic inspirations to this collection be recited often, as for Mulberry, to be or not to be is out of question.
CHANEL SS16 Eyewear
It’s doesn’t even last a minute, but the new CHANEL eyewear campaign literally flashes you. The mini moving image is defined by flashing blue lights, creating an iridescent atmosphere that recalls both ambulance sirens and dance club nights. Amidst this lightshow sits no one other than CHANEL’s favorite associate Cara Delevingne, sporting a simple hat and, of course, the prominent sunglasses. While the glasses themselves allude to the look of a mirror mask, their special trait is the “quilted” border, created by laser cut fabrication. It is those lines that breathe more CHANEL into the sunglasses than into any pair ever before. Wear them to the club or on the high-street - these glasses will have the attention flashed at you just like the lights flash at Cara.
Hood by Air RTW Fall 2016
If you’re looking to find Hood by Air’s latest Fall/Winter designs, have a look at the baggage claim at your local airport. At New York Fashion Week, models found their runway turned into a baggage band when their garments were adorned with tags usually tied to suitcases at the drop-off. Another top featured the suitcase plastic wraps also formerly known from the departure area, only this time turned into a bold fashion statement. To be fair, these references were the only ones alluding to flight traffic. If not for the title, Hood by Air’s collection is more a political art statement than Ready-to-wear fashion. Designer Shayne Oliver once again crossed gender borders, made shapes and classic cuts irrelevant and boots, either oversized or shiny and red, the center of footwear. Hood by Air’s latest designs are refreshingly rebellious and creative in a surrounding where rebellion often means changing the direction of a seam. Needless to say, if we found the collection at the baggage claim, there’s no way we would return it to the lost-and-found office.
Rodarte RTW Fall 16
Even though there was no birthday song (at least not on the catwalk) in New York City, it is time to congratulate Rodarte on 10 years of success in the fashion business. The sister duo celebrated their first decade of design with their latest Fall/Winter 2016 collection at New York Fashion Week. For Kate and Laura Mulleavy, though, celebration doesn’t come in form of cakes and birthday songs. Their personal birthday cake were the garments presented on the runway. And if there is one theme to be picked, it’s ruffles, ruffles and…ruffles. Applied vertically or horizontal, diagonal, with a straight edge or in shaped waves: the ruffles embody the fantasy element in Rodarte’s designs. Those elements, to be noted, don’t drift away into dreaminess, though. The secret ingredient to this birthday cake is the casual sincerity, the mix-up of fantasy elements and street-ready pieces. For that, all the Mulleavy sister need are their usual rich palette of materials, this season completed by some fur, used in their balanced level of experimentalism and stylish design. Happy Birthday Rodarte, let’s hope your creators get some time to enjoy some actual birthday cake.
McQ F/W 16/17
While the world was buzzing with talk about fashion shows and the upcoming award ceremonies, Thursday, February 11th, 2016, saw the revelation of McQ’s new F/W 16 Digital Presentation. The date of the reveal lined up with Alexander McQueen’s sixth death anniversary, to which the brand had paid tribute before in a post on their instagram. It is also on their social media and website that McQ chose to release the campaign in an all-round digital presentation. Consisting of documentary photography by Caroline Södergren, character studies by Jack Davison and short films by Shorna Osborne, the campaign aims to highlight the collection at every angle. The designs themselves combine the brand’s rebellious attitude with ready-to-wear style that lets each item unfold in its own measure. Womenswear is influenced by Japanese culture, in particular the dance and strip clubs of Shinjuku, Tokyo, in the 1970s and 80s. Leather is a central player in motorcycle jackets and capes. Another reference to Tokyo is made in floral prints that were mainly inspired by Japanese kimonos. The go-to accessoire for the McQ Misses is the overknee boot, available in various colors and materials. Surprisingly, this is where the collection interlocks with the menswear designs: Mister McQ also sports overknee footwear, only for him laced up and thick-soled as in 90s culture. The menswear designs furthermore reference Phyllis Galembo's book MASKE which revolves around African tribe culture. In honor of fusing new and old worlds, McQ takes this to intertwine African patterns with its heritage Scottish Fairisle tartan. The McQ man is both the grown-up realist and the adolescent free spirit. The world might be buzzing about many things, but from Thursday on, McQ is up on the agenda.
RedValentino Spring/Summer Campaign feat. Birdy
She’s the girl with the angel voice, the delicate songstress that made hits at an age where others were concerned with anything but landing record deals: Birdy. Now, the 19-year old British singer has been tapped for a fashion campaign. Valentino sublabel REDValentino cast the singer as their new testimonial. The scenery takes her to London’s Edwardian theater Bush Hall. In the dimly-lit setting, Birdy moves like the grande dame, or as Valentino puts it, a modern-day Marie Antoinette. Never dropping her ethereal and dreamy attitude, she poses on a piano in shiny black gear or takes the stage dressed in a floral see-through dress. “I love the enchanted world of REDValentino and the romantic dresses that have always been associated with the brand, so I was delighted to be part of this collaboration and to have my music in the campaign” Birdy gushed over the campaign. By her music she means her song Winter playing in the background, supporting the both romantic and magical atmosphere. Least to say, we’re enchanted, too.
The campaign is launched exclusively on www.redvalentino.com.
Eastpak X Tim Coppens
Over time, high fashion has encountered many unusual and unexpected collaborators. At New York Men's Fashion Week, it was once again met with another surprising category: backpacks. For his F/W collection, designer Tim Coppens teamed up with no other brand than classic backpack manufacturer Eastpak. The American brand, which has defined the backs of many on their way to school and university and the designer have previously collaborated for Eastpaks Artist Studio line. The 2016 rucksack line is the first collection of the collaborators after the work on the studio. Presented during Coppens' show at NYMFW, the collection consists of bags that are constructed from a lot of influences. Just like Eastpak, Coppens finds his inspiration in international youth cultures. The new designs carry everything (metaphorically and literally) : traits of Japanese street wear, technical materials, unexpected color combinations met with western influences and finest craftsmanship. Available only as a limited edition, the collection presents backpacks in four colors, made from high-quality leather and adorned with contrasting lacing. Mesh inserts give the necessary sporty touch while an easy-to-handle top flap makes space for all belongings. Eastpak is no longer seen on the way to school, but on the way to rule the cat – and sidewalk.
ZUMA Restaurant to Open at Palazzo Fendi Rome
From March on, Rome’s Palazzo Fendi will be host to both high fashion and haute cuisine. The London based, award-winning restaurant ZUMA will open its tenth international and first Italian collection in rooms provided by the FENDI brand. The chefs take their inspiration from the popular Japanese izakaya’s, in which relaxed drinking and eating that embrace Japanese cookery are combined under one roof. Put simply, the ZUMA system focuses on modern Japanese dining that is authentic but not traditional. Guests will be able to experience the world of three kitchens: the main kitchen, the sushi counter and the robata grill. Here, guests can watch food become their dish: the chefs prepare the meals under an open view. Noriyoshi Muramatsu of Tokyo-based Studio Glitt has designed the Restaurant rooms, which respect the cultural heritage of the Palazzo Fendi whilst also capturing the style and elegance of ZUMA worldwide. ZUMA will be open for lunch Tuesday – Sunday from 12:00 midday to 14:30 and will be open for dinner Tuesday to Sunday from 19:30 to 23:00. Buon apetito!
Cecconi's Opens at The Store x Soho House Berlin
What to do after an exhausting shopping spree, after enjoying some music and art, after having taken in so much creativity that your stomach just craves the perfect dish? The answer just opened. “Cecconi's” has unlocked its doors at 2800 square meter location The Store in Berlin's Soho House. Being one of the go-to-places in the German capital, the Soho House inlcudes a publicly accessible ground floor which will now also be home to some of the finest Italian dishes. Cecconi's has already amazed guests in the UK, US and Istanbul and will feature a various menu with classic Northern Italian dishes. On there, guests will find cichetti (Italian tapas), appetizers, carpaccio, tartare, salads, pizza, pasta and risotto, vegetables and wood and charcoal dishes. All that is to be enjoyed surrounded by the stripped-back Soho House interior, combined with Venetian flair. Grab a bite under Art Deco-inspired chandeliers hanging against a concrete backdrop or sling back a glass of wine in one of the cherry-red leather booths. You don't even need to go shopping for that. No explanation needed. Just enjoy.
Icosae F/W 16
Take the cash and run – a thought than some of us might encounter more than once in life. For Icosae, it’s the title to their latest F/W 16 designs, shown at Paris Fashion Week. They took the cash and ran, ran through time in particular. The designers drew inspiration from a vast pool of media and youth cultures. From groups like London suede heads to the techno music generation, they extracted inspiration from music, photography, drawing, sculpting and mostly paintings. The result is a balance between realism and just enough abstraction that ends up in a deconstruction of tailoring proportions. Asymetrical shapes mark this collection just as much as the dark colors that underline the urban atmosphere. Take the cash and run – but only dressed in Icosae.
Dior Homme Show & Dinner F/W 16/17
At the Dior Homme Show, the atmosphere was one to be taken in slowly. Red lights met skate parks and let the models waltz through the venue surrounded by larger-than-life video installations. The collection itself took on the “very rouge” vibe of the scenography, working several red tones either in small or large-scale checks combined with dark colors and eccentric black-and-white prints. Monochrome flower prints went along with detailed knitwear patterns and smaller millefleur print. To finish off the special occasion, Dior continued the show with a celebrity-attended exclusive dinner at the Paris Museum of Modern Art. Fascinating clothes followed up by fancy food? What a night!
Augustin Teboul F/W 16/17
Annelie Augustin and Odély Teboul combine glamour and rock’n’roll in their collection like no other. The most astonishing design choice for FW 16/17 was hands down color. Both ladies are renowned for their femme fatale aesthetic circling 50 shades of black. This season, popping 80s hues made a guest appearance in delicate mesh structures and beading, from barely there tights to bodices, adding a glam rock touch in deconstructed knits and graphic structures to the all-black core of the collection. As a result, the Augustin Teboul woman becomes the naughty lovechild of Olivia Newton-John and Molly Ringwald. Delicate wovens mixed with luxe wool and leather pack some punch and cater to elegance and laissez-faire. Annelie Augustin and Odély Teboul always keep their eyes on their woman: an enigma wrapped in a riddle, teasing the beholder with lots of skin before pulling away, covering in long layers of darkness.
Estonian label Whitetail is renowned as one of the key players in sustainable fashion and ethical production. Designer Margit Peura stuck to her minimalist cuts, enhancing each design with a golden headpiece. A distortion of the viewer’s perspective was the result, putting the clothes rather than the individual behind them in focus. For FW 16/17 Whitetail worked with a range of materials and textures: knitted sweaters and dresses stand next to see-through chiffon blouses, heavy woolen coats and delicate woven skirts. Eclectic prints, appliques, buttons and ruffled hems add a playful twist to the collection. Bright colors transformed last season’s muted Whitetail aesthetic. This time around bold red, royal blue, light grey, khaki and salmon liven up glum winters skies.
Lemaire Fall/Winter 16/17
At Lemaire’s menswear presentation, dark colors and very classic cuts were in store. The label presented a menswear wardrobe perfectly suitable for its wearers daily business. Classic single and double -breasted coats were featured next to simple jackets with oversized pockets and slim-cut blazers. Paired with a sophisticated black cape and baggy pleated trousers, the outerwear makes for a contemporary look that the Lemaire man can take on a business meeting, a date, or just pop out for a drink in. It’s versatility that makes good clothing, and we thank Lemaire for delivering just that.
KENZO Fall 16/17
To find inspiration for their latest collection, KENZO designers Carol Lim and Humberto Leon lived the jet set life. Multiple journeys to japan and numerous concerts are base to their F/W 16/17 designs. Therefore, Japanese culture in its entirety, but especially music and concerts play a distinctively important part: the new KENZO collection is an ode in itself, an ode to music, an ode to fans, and to positivity. Leon and Lim were fascinated by the unique connection between musicians and their fanbase and wanted to emphasize the feeling of positivity that is harbored by a concert crowd. But how does one translate such a feeling into clothing? KENZO does by creating a relaxed look with a nevertheless slim silhouette. Comfortable wool pants combined with faux crocodile leather jackets melt the cool and the eccentric, the latter supported by a mix of psychedelic prints. Attention to detail is key, with peace-symbol buttons and the KENZO founder signature used as embellishment completing a vast collection. What to do now? Check for plane tickets to Japan. Or at least for a concert ticket. Or both. Jet set is on!
Xavi Reyes FW 16/17
The Spaniard followed the call of Berlin’s capital to present his FW 16/17 collection during MBFWB, while the key players of this season’s official campaign, Natasha Poly, Atsuko Kudo and Jeff Barks had flocked to the front row from their previous Fashion Talk to take in the unisex designs. Combining the masculine and the feminine, futurism and tradition in edgy cuts, asymmetry, muted hues and free silhouettes. Inspired by his home, the Extremadura, he breaks melancholy severity with romantic elements such as white embroidered lace, flounces and oriental patterns oh so typical for the southern Spanish region.
Dries Van Noten: Peacock and Psychedelic F/W 16
Dries Van Noten’s latest collection is quite well defined by its own accessories. Listen up, and create your own image of it: Army style marching boots, classic city and dress shoes, faux fur coat collars worn as shawls and, last but not least, golf shoe tassles worn separately. Such a summary of deconstructed, estranged characteristics applies to the whole collection. This season, the Dries Van Noten man is a modern day peacock that displays his feathers with pride. Besides that, there is some psychedelic jugendstil displayed. The Van Noten wearer is an iconoclast that carries his very own uniform. Still, uniforms have also soaked into this collection. Insignia of regalia are ripped off and embellished onto the wardrobe of an iconic man. Bullions are worn as badges of ornament – restraint is not on the menu for Van Noten these days. Far more, he is all about deconstruction: clothing construction is subverted and the silhouettes, materials and colors mix in an open-minded assembly. Forms of formality of the sartorial are met with the oversized, robust uniform wools go along with silk jacquards, fine cashmere and velvet. The colors also spill broadly, from classic, to military, to outright flamboyant. Today, with Dries Van Noten, we’re not just us. We’re like a peacock. Only with this collection, each of our feathers looks different.
Marina Hoermanseder Lifts Off for F/W 2016
Amelia Earheart without a doubt was one of the most impressive women in this world. Flying across the Atlantic Ocean as the first woman to do so, she has established a legend-status that has been mentioned across various media for years. What stands out in all of this coverage is her imperturbable passion and bravery. Marina Hoermanseder takes that as an inspiration for her F/W 16/17 collection. Inevitably, the garments mirror Earhart’s looks in form of flight jackets, pleat-fronted trousers and hooded coats. Female self-determination meets subtle, masculine notes. Hoermanseder’s woman is independent and displays her femininity in a charming way. Embroidered embellishments and shiny buckles add both a functional and fashionable touch. These details support the use of premium leather and make the looks a high-end “avion” style. Without a doubt, Amelia Earheart was one of the most impressive women in this world. And we’re quite sure she would have felt pretty good in this gear.
G-Star RAW Celebrates
For G-Star, the 20th anniversary of their most famous denim design must feel like the growing up of the first-born child. Elwood 5620, the brand's most revolutionary and cult piece, turns 20 this year. Thus, in celebration spirits, G-Star has decided to do what maybe separates this celebration from a normal child's birthday: they're throwing an all-year party. At the end of every month, a new Limited Edition design of the Elwood 5620 will be revealed. Among these editions will be collaborations with artists and former G-Star cooperators. And it has already kicked off: for January, the G-Star Elwood Moto was released, homage to the Enduro races that took place until the late 1960s. The original Elwood 5620 model was released back in 1996, as the first denim pants to feature 3D-denim technology and a design unique to its name. Until now, the Elwood has stayed relevant to G-Star and has become a brand DNA of sorts. As the cherry on top of the birthday celebrations, Ellen Von Unwerth shot a special SS16 campaign only dedicated to the pants. Any birthday wishes left? We don't think so.
Leaves of Stone: Guiseppe Penone at Gagosian Hong Kong
January 21st, 2016 marks the start of the first ever Hong Kong exhibition of Italian artist Guiseppe Penone. “Foglie di Pietra/Leaves of Stone” displays key works from the past decade. The exhibition's title was inspired by the eponymous art piece from 2013: a series of sculptures made of bronze tree branches and found fragments of eighteenth century ornamental stonework that on the other hand were also inspired by vegetal forms. This interdependence is no rare occurrence in Penone’s work: especially the tree and its relationship to man seem to be an inexhaustible source of inspiration. In a work phase of over 40 years, Penone has assembled a splendid collection of art works on his CV. His pieces mark the persistence of biological life while reimagining nature in the artificial way. “Leaves of Stone” is set to run until March 21, 2016. The opening reception will be held on the opening date from 6-8 pm.
GUCCI’s Poetic Reactivation: Men’s F/W 16
Every time Alessandro Michele takes a step, the fashion world vibrates. His every move is a burst of creativity, a glittering bomb exploding with past, present and future inside. Alessandro Michele is the fashion epitome of Alice in Wonderland’s hat maker, not crazy, but creative, his work always immensely layered but unique in it’s own ways. For GUCCI, he presents one multifaceted collection after the other. With the latest GUCCI menswear designs Michele followed his own path while establishing a new interpretation of time. The collection, titled “Poetic Reactivation”, refers to our system of past and memory as incorrect. Michele wants to explore memory as an interpretative and poetic field, while destroying pieces of the past at the same time. The idea of an inexorably finished past is eradicated, but the collection still is an “assemblage” of fragments from preceding decades and centuries. It’s complex, but so is GUCCI, and so is the collection. You never have enough space to go through it. GUCCI itself describes it as an “excess of sense”. How true, we couldn’t have put it better.
Ermenegildo Zegna Couture F/W 2016
Ermenigildo Zegna Couture steps up to its name at Milan Men’s Fashion Week, making a proud statement of cutting-edge couture tailoring with the leading motif of “embellishment”. Now, embellishment doesn’t primarily refer to the clothing, but to the idea behind it. For this collection, Stefano Pilati focused on the current zeitgeist of self-advertising and the need to distinguish. In other words: embellishment. He transfers this into a sophisticated, rather fearless wardrobe defined by the exhibition of patterns. Masculine motifs are fused with the lushness of the fabrics, which emphasizes once again the “couture” attitude. Nevertheless, embellishment DOES also refer to the fabrics. They are adorned with three dimensional hand embroideries, ornamental motifs and woven patchwork of jacquard patterns. The result is a collection with elegance, unregulated in its formality, embodying the classic Zegna attitude. Embellished, and established!
New DKNY Spring/Summer 2016 Campaign
The new year is only two weeks old, but most of us have probably forgotten about our New Year’s resolutions already. DKNY certainly has not, as it must have been one of their resolutions to introduce the new year with their SS16 advertising campaign. Captured by Lachlan Bailey, in it Adrienne Juliger poses as the embodiment of the new DKNY woman: powerful, nuanced and complex. This year, her actions speak louder than her clothes, which let her be herself in every way, every day. Thus, the clothes are a collection of simple, minimalist designs featuring the key colors black and white. Straight cutting goes along with high-end, clean accessories and gives the DKNY woman the space to bounce through everyday life with strength. The campaign is the first to be released under the lead of new Creative Directors Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow. Along with new designs, the brand also presents a new graphic logo, which is layered in big, bold letters over the pictures. The new year may only be two weeks old, but for DKNY, this resolution can already be crossed off the list.
Louis Vuitton & UNICEF: #MAKEAPROMISE
Louis Vuitton’s latest campaign line-up reads like the database of a Hollywood agency. For their #MAKEAPROMISE campaign, the fashion house collaborated with UNICEF to raise worldwide awareness for children in need and captured various darlings from the entertainment industry. Shot by Patrick Demarchelier at the sixth UNICEF ball in Los Angeles, the likes of Paul Bettany, Nicole Kidman, Léa Seydoux, Xavier Dolan, Adèle Exarchopoulos, Mariah Carey and many more posed with the “Pinky Promise” gesture, a symbol to assure commitment to the campaign’s goals. These include not only raising awareness to children suffering from humanitarian catastrophes but also providing actual help. The brand will collect donations through an exclusively designed product: the Silver Lockit (wristband or necklace) will have 200 Euros from its total price of 500 Euros be forwarded to UNICEF immediately. The campaign is set to be a long-lasting project and was developed by Vuitton’s employees. Having put an increasing focus on social media in their recent campaigns, LV and UNICEF once again ask users worldwide to share their #MAKEAPROMISE moment with a #pinkypromise post as a continuation of the movement started by the testimonials. Promises might be given out like free samples these days, but there’s a feeling that this one might just be the change. Agree? Show your pinky. Promise.
Paul Smith LC:M 2016 Presentation
It appears as if these days, recollection is more present than the actual reality. A good handful of designers are going back to the roots, whether it’s in time or geographically. Among these is British designer Paul Smith. After having just launched an exclusive T-Shirt collection with the late David Bowie, Smith released his F/W collection in surroundings that were reminiscent of the past. The designs were on display in a recreation of what was Smith’s first shop, opened in 1970, measuring only nine square meters and being open only two days a week. From there, even though he is essentially British, Smith created his own form of what feels like the American dream: becoming a global fashion business. Fast forward to January 2016, visitors had to cram into nine square meters again to catch a glimpse at the new designs. Colorful bags, inspired by Argentine tango and leather goods inspired by a Mayfair façade recap the designer’s roots in a tangible way. The little “shop” marked a fresh contrast to regular runway presentations and surely had not only Smith himself think of the old days. It’s a shame that it was only a recreation – as we’re sure these nine square meters would be quite successful today, too.
Louis Vuitton and Al Dente: "LV & Me"
Louis Vuitton is here to teach us the alphabet again. Only this time, it’s the Louis Vuitton alphabet. For their new jewellery collection, the fashion house teamed up with Paris creative agency Al Dente to create a campaign that explores all the letters – from A to Z, quite literally. Designed by Camille Micheli, “LV & Me” encapsulates bold silver and gold jewellery, focusing on letters to be assembled freely. An interactive digital capsule, supported by a 1970’s song by Amanda Lear, leads the campaign. As she intonates in her unique style nonchalant confessions as “G stands for getting divorced”, Lear takes the viewer through both alphabet and collection. The movie has also been duplicated in 7 videos and can be viewed below and on the Louis Vuitton website. There, jewellery fans can take on their own spelling bee as they create their personalised video featuring Lear’s explanations. Users are encouraged to share their experience across Social Media, where teasers and photos will also be spread. Getting to the final letter, Lear’s voice tells us: “Z is for the zero you will get, if you don’t learn my alphabet.” We’re on it, we are.
Moschino feat. Gilbert & George: FW Men 16
Moschino’s Jeremy Scott might just be one of the most contemporary designers of our time. After having incorporated the world of fast food chains and Barbie dolls in his past designs, with the AW 16 menswear collection, he is onto the next collaboration. This time, only, it’s art. Scott met up with artist duo Gilbert & George and, after a round of tea, was granted full access to their artworks for the new Moschino collection. The designer jumped at the possibility and therefore included everything he could: the new designs feature collaged coats, knit cardigans and jackets with patches of the artists’ images of young men’s faces. Typography, words and phrases have also been taken along. Other garments are peppered with crucifix patches that refer to G&G’s 1982 art piece “Youth Faith”. According to Scott, everything in Gilbert & George’s work speaks to him, from the saturated colors to the slogans and provocative attitude. Well, this could just be a match made in heaven.
Prada SS16 Campaign
The Prada man is vulnerable – and in that lies hies truth. What sounds poetic can actually be decoded as the message behind Prada's Spring/Summer 16 campaign. The artistic concept distances itself from the image of over-stressed masculinity and focuses on more casual and relaxed aesthetics. Mirroring that are the campaign's three testimonials: actors Matthew Beard, Billy Howle and Logan Lerman. Shot by Craig McDean in a New York nightclub, the pictures convey authentic emotions and natural realness. Beard, Howle and Lerman appear caught-in-the-moment, seemingly lost in thought, but also keep an unbroken connection to the camera. Altogether the campaign is characterized by dark colors, Howles shimmering blue trousers being the exception. This mood goes along with straight cuts, minimalist tailoring and timeless accessories. Who said it's bad being vulnerable, after all?
Givenchy Pre-Fall 16
Ricardo Tisci is at it again: he’s introducing his second decade at French fashion house Givenchy with the Pre-Fall 16 collection. For the look book, the models were shot in the studio, but also on the sidewalks of Berlin. The collection’s designs enfold a potpourri of fabrics, ranging from lace, leather and denim to florally embroidered designs. Not only the fabrics are various but so is the inspiration: Tisci created designs equally inspired by everything, from building sites to bedrooms. The latter even provide two different interpretations: fetish silhouettes are presented next to streetwear pajamas. This also transfers to the very present use of lace: dress hems, collars and applications perform a subtle but sublime kind of sexy. Since all of this is destined for a FALL season, Tisci throws in some warm pieces we all might need – brown fur and pinstripe coats included. How does one chose here? Simple: not at all. More is more, isn’t it?
CHANEL’S City Western SS16 Campaign
To be honest, the fashion world is spinning so fast that sometimes, one has trouble to keep up. Think CHANEL. One minute, we’re still reminiscing about their iconic airport show, the next we’ve already taken off! Destination: Wild West, but also the city. The latest SS16 campaign combines both: CHANEL’s City Western. The French brand premiered the new RTW and accessories campaign with two mini feature films. In it, models Lineisy Montero and Mica Arganaraz take on the empty streets of Brooklyn, New York. Their favorite travel accessory: the “Coco case” cabin case. The main collection’s visuals were shot by Karl Lagerfeld himself and feature ethereal and colorful silhouettes. Montero and Arganaraz wander about in eccentric print combinations, oozing sophistication and effortless coolness. Functional-but-chic accessories that range from the all-essential cabin case to floating silk scarves complete their look. The only thing missing? A stylish lasso, maybe. It’s the Wild West, after all.
Anselm Kiefer Retrospective at Centre Pompidou
The core of French exhibition locations, Paris’ Centre Pompidou hosts a retrospective of the œuvres of famous German artist Anselm Kiefer. Starting last December, the exhibition is set to run until April 16 and features over 150 pieces from the artist’s career. Since Kiefer has been active for several decades, the exhibition will include works from the 1960s until now. Around 60 paintings from important collections around the world are united for the first time and accompanied by other graphic works, sculptures and installations. Since the start of his career, Kiefer’s work has been defined by the usage of multiple techniques that transfer into the possibility of a broad interpretation. He was an important contributor to the revival of German paintings in the 1970s, along with much worshipped colleagues like Gerhard Richter and Georg Baselitz. For anyone who wants to get lost in the world of a thoughtful, artistic genius, a trip to the Centre Pompidou should be on the list for early 2016.
A VERY MERRY SPECIAL TUNE – MERRY CHRISTMAS FROM ZOO
Christmas is nothing without a good soundtrack. Therefore, we at ZOO created a unique YouTube playlist for you to listen to – wherever you are in the world. It includes everything from kitsch classics to unexpected renditions from HipHop and Rock artists. Enjoy!
The Art of Deception: Heart Transplants Restyled
To this day, many, many things have been manipulated for aesthetic purposes. In fact, we’re running out of the things that haven’t. Still, organ transplants come in quite unexpected on this list. For their latest project, “The Art of Deception”, designer Isaac Monté and university professor Toby Kiers have teamed up to discover how we can manipulate our bodies in the future – aesthetically and medically. As a part of the “Body of Matter” exhibit in MU Eindhoven, 21 manipulated organ transplants are on display. The transplants were made from discarded animal hearts and have been resurrected through the process of “decellularization”. After being stripped of its cellular contents, during this process the heart becomes a “blank page” to be repopulated by new human cells. The team around Monté and Kiers did not hold back: fluorescent colors, tattoos and even brand logos are now more “in our hearts” than ever. With this project, the duo seeks to explore how humans use deception to reach perfection in society, science and art. The hearts are on display until February 7.
Copzright Atelier Monté 2015
Burberry Unveils New SS16 Campaign
Since Burberry premiered its festive campaign with emerging British talents earlier this year, it seems like time has flown by. The next campaign, Spring Summer 2016, is out and again features the promising talents of tomorrow. This time, only, they originate from the fashion scene. The latest designs are being premiered by future faces such as models Hayett Belarbi McCarthy, Misha Hart, May & Ruth Bell and many more. Shot by Mario Testino in London, the “cast” of this new campaign reflects the attitude of the new collection – energetic and vibrant. Featured in their first ever Snapchat campaign in October, the ready-to-wear pieces center around one new key item: the Burberry rucksack. For this new accessory, Christopher Bailey and his team dug deep into the archives and found inspiration the military section from the early 20th century. The new product is a lightweight carryall with a soft structure and multi-zip pocket added for functionality. Functionality is also the theme behind the new womenswear designs: “Functionregalia” links regalia elements with function clothing. The menswear collection follows a similar path: sartorial clothing is mixed with unconventional elements. All of this does not neglect the key Burberry items: trench coats, scarves, ponchos – it’s all there and frankly, it wouldn’t be Burberry without them. With each collection, the British brand proves once more that tradition in no way equals boredom: whether it’s materials, shapes or colors – Burberry’s reinvention is endless. If only time wouldn’t fly by so fast.
© Copyright Burberry/Testino
GUCCI Pre-Fall 2016
A dictionary is a pretty thick book, but there is only one word in it to describe GUCCI’s latest Pre-Fall collection: eclectic. Under the lead of Creative Director Alessandro Michele, the brand presented a colorful, multifaceted collection that leaves almost no color, fabric or print untouched. Indeed, the list seems infinite: animals, flowers, landscapes, stripes, stars and even more– Michele has everything in store. Contrary to other fashion designers, who like to take their influences from just one decade or era, Michele adds everything to his boiling pot of inspiration. Just like in his last collections, vintage is claimed excessively– resulting in references from past centuries to the 1970s. This (again) eclectic mixture can only be adapted by few fashion brands - and GUCCI certainly is one of them. A dictionary might be a thick book, but with GUCCI, there’s one word missing: boredom.
Björk Premieres Music Video for Mouth Mantra
Icelandic singer Björk takes viewers inside her own mouth in her latest music video. “Mouth Mantra” is taken from her album “Vulnicura” and reportedly focuses on a vocal surgery Björk had to face. “I was not heard”, she exclaims in the lyrics, to later conclude: “I am not hurt”. The accompanying visuals to “Mouth Mantra” now give fans an insight into Björk’s throat. Starting off with a zoom-in on a pink tongue, the video then moves to distorted images inside the whole mouth. Further on, the artist herself is seen dancing in a bodysuit, decorated with white straps. Dark backgrounds and dimmed light create the mysterious atmosphere that has defined the singer’s work for years. Safe to say that with this one, Björk, you will be heard.
Milan’s Fondazione Prada Presents “Recto Verso” Exhibition
Organized by the Fondazione Prada Thought council, i.e. Shumon Basar, Elvira Dyangani Ose, Cédric Libert and Dieter Roelstraete, this exhibition involves the work from artists over two centuries. In an exploration opposing the Western art tradition of perceiving paintings as frontal (“recto”) artifacts rather than back (“verso”), meaning that the front carries more cultural value, this collection of works reverse this system. For instance, Sarah Charlesworth uses double-exposure photography to emphasize the presented object’s structural properties, whereas Pierre Toby uses glass as his canvas to reveal the back of the painting. Other works in the exhibition incorporate the “trompe-l’œil” technique, bringing focus to the frame rather than the image, whilst Pierre Buraglio and Daniel Dezeuze skip the entire picture plane and leave only support material. Other works in the gallery continue with these themes of reverse and reveal.
“Recto Verso” is on exhibition in the Fondazione Prada Nord Gallery, Milan, from December 3, 2015, to February 14, 2016.
The HUGO BOSS ASIA ART Award 2015 Winner is Announced
Maria Taniguchi has been crowned winner of the 2015 HUGO BOSS ASIA ART Award for Emerging Artists with a tidy ¥300,000 award. Narrowly missing out were the five other nominated artists, Guan Xiao, Huang Po-?Chih, Moe Satt, Vandy Rattana and Yang Xinguang, who are exhibited their works alongside Taniguchi at the Rockbund Art Museum (RAM) until January 3, 2016. Marc Le Mat, the Managing Director of HUGO BOSS CHINA RETAIL CO. LTD, and Larys Frogier, RAM Director, announced the Philippines artist as the winner in light of her extraordinary paintings, sculptures and videos investigating time and space with social and historical contexts.
BOSS, Bauhaus, Bespoke
The last director of the Bauhaus movement once said, “The Bauhaus was no an institution. It was an idea. An idea as readily applied to clothing as to buildings – architecture for the body”.
It’s no surprise that BOSS Creative Director Jason Wu has had a long-standing admiration of the Bauhaus movement. Its rigorous geometric lines form the basis of many a post-2014 BOSS collection, after Wu has combined such Bauhaus principles with the BOSS DNA of exceptional precise menswear tailoring to create a new look for the modern woman.
Now Wu looks to this artistic movement again, and draws inspiration from the Bauhaus artwork of Josef Albers and Wassily Kandinsky in his new interpretation of the classic BOSS Bespoke handbag. With a dramatic yet simplistic aesthetic, the vibrant palette of the Modernist “intarsia” bag is patterned in various luxurious materials, such as suede, box-calf and embossed lizard and crocodile prints…if Wu’s time at BOSS could be summed up in one item, it would have to be this one.
Public School Pre-Fall 2016
In their international debut, Public School’s Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow have taken a break from NYC and flocked to Dubai, courtesy of iconic motor company Cadillac XT5, to show their Pre-Fall Collection. It seems quite fitting then that the designer’s inspiration for this line, which they are presenting in a desert’s built up city, are the disparate themes of technology versus nature. Osborne and Chow’s signature long silhouette of tunics for either gender take on a definite ethnic feeling in these surroundings, heightened by their accompanying kimono inspired jackets and reinterpretations of Japanese Shibori prints. Injecting the urban undertone that these designers have made their name on are layered loose knits and a lot of mesh.
Acne Studios Open New Berlin Flagship
October 31, 2015, marked a big day for Acne Studios as they unveiled a flagship store in a city very special to the label. As chairman Mikael Schiller put it, “Berlin is a quite emotional city for us, as it was the first city outside of Scandinavia where we opened a shop more than a decade ago”.
The new 260 sqm store is located on Potsdamer Stra?e, the centre of Berlin’s art gallery district, and is consistent with the new Acne Studios Interior aesthetic. With sharp stainless steel walls and chalky pale yellow concrete walls, the clever design is reminiscent of Berlin taxis and houses the ready-to-wear collections for both men and women including the FW15 line, as well as accessories, denim and footwear. The label have also announced that New York will be the next city to welcome new Acne Studios boutiques.
Say Goodbye to Blood Diamonds
“All human beings are born free and equal in dignity”. It was December 10, 1948 when the U.N. proclaimed in Paris the “Universal Declaration of Human Rights” (UDHR). However, there are countless places in the world where basic, personal rights are not respected in any way.
Gilardy Jewels aim to tackle this head on and produce beautiful jewelry that does not come with the usual price tag of someone else’s integrity. In celebration of the UDHR, they create timeless pieces to be worn by everyone, from anywhere on any occasion, whilst supporting various organizations that fight for human rights, such as Amnesty International and Human Rights Watch. The Gilardy Human Rights collection consists of rings, charms, wristbands and bracelets, all made in a robust stainless steel. Free of nickel, this jewelry is extremely dermatologically friendly and its rings and engravings are manufactured by fairly employing disabled workers. Furthermore, for every ring or chain sold from the collection, Gilardy Jewels donate 5€ to the “Human Rights Watch" Organisation, for every bracelet they donate 3€. All in all, this unique label is giving their wearers something to be proud about, fine handcrafted jewelry that is complete with a conscious.
October 21, 2015, saw Terranova and Brixton’s finest Stereo MC’s team up to launch “Connected” – a label primarily for contemporary electronic music. In joining the venture, the Cologne-based electro music label Kompakt act as distributors. With a focus on quality, vinyl records accompany digital releases, artworks are fresh and original, whilst a platform is provided for music artists to bounce ideas of each other and cultivate something really special in their sound.
To mark this occasion and as a symbol of a long, productive working relationship between Terranova and Stereo MC’s, they’ve created “connected 001”, a limited edition product package, available axclusively at No.74 or www.connected.co.com. Included in this is a logo-printed sweatshirt complete with lettering by Berlin-based artist Carsten Fock. There is also a USB stick, with Terranova’s dubversion of “connected” by the Stereo MC’s and an hour long DJ mix…Could you ask for more?
On December 4, 2015, the label will release their first record by the two founders, before an album of the same nature and a number of songs from likeminded artists…Exciting stuff!
BMW Tate Live 2015 Talks: Staging Situations: Art and Theatre
In an exploration between the relationship of art and theatre, Tate Modern presents a varied program of events as part of this year’s BMW Tate Live 2015 Talks. An ongoing partnership for four years now, the BMW Tate Live brings focus to innovative performances with interdisciplinary art, digitalized spaces, seminars and workshops.
Inspired by the performance “BMW Tate Live: Paulina Olowska The Mother An Unsavoury Play in Two Acts and an Epilogue”, artists, curators, actors, theatre directors and writers come together to offer the public a chance to engage in the day’s events. Events in this year’s series include “Absence and Hope", led by theatre maker Rachel Mars, whilst the visual artist Kate Tiernan and theatre director Katie Mitchell lead “Rehearsal: Words and Gestures”, a workshop exploring body language as communication. Using the gallery as a stage for live performances, speeches, choreography and dramatizations, this really is a unique way to get involved.
The "BMW Tate Live 2015 Talks: Staging Situations: Art and Theatre" events occur on 31 October, 2015, from 11.00-22.00 at the Tate Modern, London.
Dior Homme Unveils New Parisian Store
Following their romanticized “Paris XVIE” campaign featuring Boyd Holbrook, Dior Homme have opened a brand new boutique for their menswear line at 24 Rue François 1er.
Across two floors, its beautiful interior design blends ideologies of modernism and elegance with tradition with pioneering innovation. Executed in a minimal palette of black leather and wood, Dior grey and white, the store provides a tranquil setting with impressive light reflective resin structures that bridge the gap between outside and in. Available in store will be all collections designed by Kris Van Assche as well as a space for custom orders.
The boutique even offers an exclusive made-to-measure, home-visit service by the label’s tailoring atelier…The Dior Homme’s shopping experience couldn’t get more enjoyable than this.
Espace Louis Vuitton München Presents “Predestined Colour Waves” - Sheila Hicks
In Germany’s first monographic exhibition of Paris-based, American artist Sheila Hicks since 1970, the Espace Louis Vuitton München is pleased to host “Predestined Colour Waves”. With colour, texture and structure providing her primary interests, Hicks’ work consists of hand-woven miniatures, mid-size bas-relief panels, soft sculptures and monumental installations. With a background of Modernism and knowledge of historical textiles, Hicks pushes to investigate new cultures by means of painting, photography and especially architecture.
The current exhibition documents Hicks’ long-standing conversation with architecture and presents the impressive large-scale installations “Alterrissage” (2014) and “La Femma Principale Bluma” (2015). Not only this, but the collection of works also involve Sydney Biennale Sketches (2015), part of her contribution to the 2016 event, and prototype models of her 1967 Ford Foundation silk bas-relief tapestries, which were recreated in 2013-14, among other artworks.
Espace Louis Vuitton München exhibits “Predestined Colour Waves” from artist Sheila Hicks from October 8, 2015, until January 23, 2016.
Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
The virtual age is taking over and Louis Vuitton is yet another label this season choosing to comment. Unlike his contemporaries however, Nicolas Ghesquière’s opinion is not one of doom or disaster but ferocity and strength.
Absorbed in a cyberspace setting, the look was digital and fierce. Military inspired leather jackets worn with metal textured mini skirts and chained platform sandals introduced a new wave of punks. Patchwork trousers with silver zippers reappeared throughout the show in various forms, whilst beaded knitwear provided a kind of protective armour.
The classic Louis Vuitton print was splashed sparingly on jacket sleeves whilst the ruched drawstring bag in look 45 proved a real stand out in the accessories and no doubt a must have this season.
Hermès Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
It’s clean lines, geometric shapes and sleek silhouettes at Hermès this season.
Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski recovered the label’s heritage in bringing back leather once again this season in various midi length skirts, coats and dresses. Trainers appearing in white, blue, ochre yellow and red will surely prove to be a hit in store, not to mention the tailored longline coats.
Oversized stone jewelry adds drama to the understated collection, whilst Vanhee-Cybulski’s beautiful palette of colors elevates this understated collection to the height of Spring/Summer elegance.
Céline Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
It was back to the Tennis Club de Paris for Céline this season. Bringing us a world of contrasts, Phoebe Philo reworks some of her favorite shapes and silhouettes in a travelling inspired collection.
Opening with the ultimate interpretation of a nineties slip, Philo walks her models through a range of looks, mixing masculine tones with feminine pleats and cinched waists amongst oversized shoulders reminiscent of the eighties.
If there is one thing Philo has taught us from this show, it is that no venture is worth doing without some sultry red lipstick and a pair of hoop earrings.
Loewe Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
Jonathan Anderson is reinventing the traditionally fine Spanish leather brand, Loewe. This is with a new, particular attention to the logo, which he cleverly brandishes across bags, dresses and coordinating suits.
Mixing the outlandish with the undoubtedly ready-to-wear, his newest collection for the label sees a diverse range of fabrics and textures, from mirror shards, to cable knits to translucent plastic. The jewelry is contemporary and eclectic, with fish shaped necklaces, tailored bags and models dripping in gold with fringed earrings and bracelets. An innovative collection, which is bursting with a fresh energy for Loewe.
Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
“Lo-fi, sci-fi” is John Galliano’s latest collection for Maison Margiela. An eclectic assortment of references, the designer’s otherworldly show saw the union of the vintage 50s, a futuristic space age and traditional Japan.
A turquoise beehive, leopard print collar 50s style coat and silver make up à la Pat McGrath; it began with a psychedelic bang. Next came fishnet limbs, appliqued glass fragments with an over layer of mesh. All oddly ready to wear for Galliano, we were later introduced to his reinterpretation of kimonos. Liquid-look skirts dripping in applique grazed the ankles and appeared among beautiful prints and obis in creating kimono-style silhouettes… This enthralling collection has the Galliano stamp all over it and it is spectacular.
Boris Bidjan Saberi Announce New Womenswear Campaign
The values of Boris Bidjan Saberi’s label explore functionality within the urban context of street wear. Primarily concerned in protecting the curvatures and geometric angles of the human body, Saberi adopts innovative techniques when experimenting with fabrics, reimagining and rearranging in a destructured style. Previously only creating menswear lines, this campaign presents the growing prominence of the women’s collection for the brand in an exclusive preview on our ZOO Magazine site.
The Spring/Summer 2016 Collections combine aspects of two fundamentally different worlds, work wear versus deep-sea diving suits. Inspired by the construction of neoprene suits, Saberi reimagines some of the label’s most signature looks using organic materials in a wholly novel light. The sheer inquisitive nature of the luxury fashion brand, along with high quality tailoring and handcrafted passion, means for an inspiring collection composed of forward-thinking creativity.
Jacquemus Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
In a surreal Parisian show, “Le Nez Rouge” came complete with ginormous balls of fabric, a barefooted child in a man’s shirt and the designer himself leading a horse down the runway.
The collection itself was outstanding. Heavily deconstructed suits resulted in asymmetric lines and contemporary shapes in the label’s signature style. Crisp shirts and tailored trousers appeared in the designer’s trusted palette of navy, white, grey and red.
Emporio Armani Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
If it was blue last season then it was orange this one at Emporio Armani. Well with a majority neutral palette throughout, he ended the show with a vibrant orange, evocative of a summer sunset.
Continuing with a casual trend to his clothes, this line sees a fluid transition from androgynous looks to decidedly feminine ones, from eighties inspired power dressing to nineties sports-inspired leisure wear. With the adoption of a number of shapes, a stand out are the ruffled suit trousers that cinch in with a belt buckle.
Blumarine Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
A jewel encrusted, court-studded, floral print explosion of sheer netting, draped fabrics and relaxed jackets is occurring at Blumarine this season. Anna Molinari has let her imagination run wild and created a collection in which two worlds collide, those of surrealism and reality.
Take billowing satins or sheer printed skirts against simplistic ribbed jumpers and oversized coats. This fusion of ornate decoration and modern minimalism creates a look of ethereal elegance finding its feet in an urban world.
Trussardi Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
Seemingly having had sourced inspiration from a documentary depicting one man’s travel through Western Australia, the undertone to Gaia Trussardi’s latest collection is of exploration and survival.
Longline jackets and shirts sail over matching linen trousers, all with distressed raw edges, appear as though they have withstood the harshest of elements of a desert. There is patchwork, layering and leather all realized in a warm, earthy palette and slouchy silhouettes.
Amidst all of this, Trussardi is having a somewhat vintage moment, with beaded dresses and waistbands and a nostalgic pendant necklace featuring in every look. The culmination of which is a collection fusing roughness with luxury, a novel interpretation of shabby-chic.
Fendi Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
Opposing retro at all costs, Karl Lagerfeld implies that there are no references in his latest Fendi collection. The puffed up sleeves, the high neck collars and the repeated latticing are puzzling... With coral, oversized leather sleeves and a pleated maroon skirt that flows to the ankles, I can’t decide if we’re in the eighties or the Renaissance, with look 16.
Lagerfeld incorporates a diverse number of silhouettes, fabrics and colors into the collection and more often than not with this one it really seems as though they shouldn’t work together… Somehow though, they definitely do.
Gucci Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
With a scrupulous eye for the details, Alessandro Michele has created a world of intricacies with his latest Gucci collection. A continuation of his vintage-inspired vision from last season, the quirky collection contains every accessory imaginable with a plethora of floral satins and sheer chiffons.
Models donning huge rocks walk up a printed carpet reminiscent of an aristocratic interior, against a backdrop of an older Italy’s industrial landscape.
With corsages, oversized, sparkly glasses and head-to-toe printed suits, the current Gucci line is Renaissance-meets-the-seventies, and eccentricity is key.
Burberry Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at LFW
Military-style coats with regimental studs, ribbon cording that reminds you of army uniforms and intricate lace made in the UK – the distinctively British fashion brand lives up to its namesake.
Throw in a classic trenchcoat and a personalized Cara Delevingne backpack and you couldn’t get “more” Burberry, though the clunky, chainlink sandals teamed with flowing slips and maxi dresses scream urban grunge.
Mix this with a range of sophisticated, heavy coats and you see Christopher Bailey’s move away from the idea of season-specific clothes with this collection. Making the show even more memorable, Bailey had Alison Moyet provide the soundtrack with the backing of a 32-piece orchesrtra.
Gareth Pugh Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at LFW
With bold prints, latex and an unflinching red, black and white palette, it was go hard or go home for Gareth Pugh’s latest collection. Diverting away from last year’s ritualistic themes this season was all about flamboyance.
Masked models with choppy wigs wore plunging V-neck cuts and asymmetric shapes. Adorning his clothes with coins, this eccentric motif reappeared throughout the show and reminded onlookers that sometimes, you just have to go all out. At his LFW debut, this show has proven to be iconic for the designer.
“Volez, Voguez, Voyagez – Louis Vuitton”
The Grand Palais was constructed in preparation for Paris’ spectacular Universal Exhibition in 1900. Around 48 millions visitors swarmed to the event, whilst George Vuitton created one of the most iconic attractions as part of his role in organizing the entire section concerning “Travel & Leather goods”. A majestic merry-go-round formed the platform for an array of pioneering and elegant Louis Vuitton luggage and bags.
As a celebration of over a century of Louis Vuitton, the Grand Palais will now host “Volez, Voguez, Voyagez – Louis Vuitton”. Retracing the label back to its 1854 origins, the collection consists of a remarkable overview of Louis Vuitton’s journey, paying homage to both it’s founders and current creators. Curator Olivier Saillard delved into the archives of the fashion brand to deliver “a fresh vision of our past, present and future”, according to Louis Vuitton’s CEO, Michael Burke.
The “Volez, Voguez, Voyagez – Louis Vuitton” exhibition will run at the Grand Palais from December 4, 2015 until February 21, 2016.
Diesel Black Gold Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at NYFW
Apparently first inspired by a girl wearing her boyfriend’s shirt, Andreas Melbostad has taken this idea and ran with it. Perhaps too far, as at times this collection can seem a little repetitive.
With hints of sportswear mixed into the cuts and footwear, Melbostad has created an urban line with that characteristically Diesel Black Gold biker effect...
Think oversized leather dungarees, embellished leather jackets and patchwork jeans. This is all realized in a mainly monochrome palette with the emergence of a beautiful deep blue towards the end of the show.
Alexander Wang Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at NYFW
This sports-inspired line consisting of a neutral palette with the odd splash of vibrancy, suggests Wang has momentarily had his fill of all-black following last season. Mesh vests, crop tops, caps and sneakers make up the newly ex-Balenciaga director’s collection, oozing contemporary casual.
Departing from last season’s look of a subcultural, gothic-rave scene, with only studded sandals as a memento, Alexander Wang has chosen to shift his focus to urban New York streetwear for his Spring/Summer 2016 Collection.
Finished off with a nostalgic highlights reel of the past ten years of his career, along with a star studded front row, the shows reflects Wang as the great New York showman that he is.
Art-Lovers Assemble: Berlin Art Week 2015 is Upon Us
2015 sees Berlin Art Week run again for the fourth time with the help of main sponsor, Deutsche Bank. Over 6 days the city will host a diverse range of exciting Contemporary Art events. The joint project STADT/BILD (Image of a City) features across several galleries, whilst there is also the art fair Positions Berlin and a number of awards including the Preis der Nationalgalerie 2015.
To mark the occasion, all over the city there will be striking exhibitions opening, including collections from the likes of Cindy Sherman, Paul McCarthy and Bernard Frize. This year, for the first time, Berlin Art Week will also offer a number of thought-provoking panel discussions of Talking Galleries/Berlin.
According to Tim Renner, Senate Chancellery – Cultural Affairs, “Berlin Art Week reflects the city’s great variety as an art centre. Top-notch excellence and underground meet at eye level”. With so much going on, Berlin Art Week will surely be the focus of the art world for the next week.
Berlin Art Week commences on September 15, 2015, and runs until September 20, 2015.
Madame Tussauds may as well give up now, as the candle replica of Karl Lagerfeld is quite brilliant. His iconic look of dark shades, signature white collar and black top button is perfectly captured in this amusing homeware delight… Perfect if you feel you need a little Karl in your life/cupboard.
Co-designed by John-Paul Welton, the scent itself is naturally inspired by all things Karl. Delicately spiced mandarin surrounds the top notes of cinnamon, whilst it’s center includes soft jasmine and orange blossom fused with cardamom, nutmeg and tobacco. Cedar and teak wood, musk and amber finish up at the base of the luxuriously elegant scent, ultimately embodying his very character.
“Candle Karl” has found itself on shelves in limited edition at the Maison and Objet Paris and is available to preorder in store at Karl Lagerfeld.
Acne Studios Embrace Change with Fall/Winter 2015 Campaign
Adopting fashion’s recent shift away from gender distinctive clothing toward current trends of gender blurring and androgyny, Acne Studios’ Creative Director Jonny Johansson has featured his 11-year-old son Frasse in the label’s Fall/Winter 2015 campaign. Shot by Viviane Sassen, the ad sees the preteen football fanatic tottering about in heels and a number of coats from the new womenswear collection – looking unnervingly cool whilst doing so.
In a recent statement, Jonny Johansson said “I’ve seen this new generation’s attitude to fashion where the cut, the shape and the character of the garment is the crucial thing, rather than seeking approval from society or to follow set norms.” The outdoor ad will appear in major cities New York, London, Paris and Hong Kong.
Amsterdam’s Tribal Art Fair (TAF) Runs for 13th Year
Keeping a family tradition alive is TAF organizer and owner of Amsterdam’s infamous Galerie Lemaire, Finette Lemaire. The gallery is one of the oldest tribal art galleries in the world and was founded around 90 years ago by M.L.J Lemaire. The popular TAF collection boasts an impressive range of textiles, sculptures, masks, jewelry and utensils from all over Africa, Oceania, America and Asia. Twenty national and international galleries will be exhibiting these items in the fair, many of which have never been previously released to the public…Whether you are a collector, an expert or simply a passer by, they are worth checking out. An expert committee will also be judging the diverse collection, examining the authenticity of each item.
The Tribal Art Fair (TAF) 2015 is running in central Amsterdam’s “De Duif” church from October 30, until November 1, 2015.
Converse Celebrate a 35 Year Old Stüssy!
The all American brands Stüssy and Converse have teamed up in celebrating the former’s 35th Anniversary. Commemorating Stüssy’s iconic “Tom Tom” print of zig zags and dots, the collaboration sees an inspired version of the pattern printed on the high tops and low Ox shapes of Converse’s 70s re-crafted Chuck shoe. The graphic featuring in achromatic shades and blue hues is embroidered on these exclusive sneakers in a unique fabric.
The Converse Chuck Taylor All Star ’70 Stüssy 35 Collection will be on sale from August 28, 2015, at Stüssy Chapter stores worldwide with a general release on September 4, 2015.
Wish us Luck! LeadAwards Announce ZOO Magazine as a Contender TWICE for Upcoming 2015 Medal
Hailed as Europe’s’ most significant photography awards, LeadAwards have announced ZOO Magazine as being nominated twice for the prestigious award. Each nomination will feature in the prestigious LeadAwards exhibition at the “Haus der Photography”, which is known to host around 40,000 visitors.
Miron Zownir presents one nomination with her Berlin Noir in ZOO Magazines’ Tenth Anniversary and Berlin Special, Issue 45. The series sees her depiction of Berlin in a post-war ruin, calling it “the Mecca of the Renegades and Penniless”. She shoots working-class citizens in their natural environment of Berlins’ then desolate, urban landscape.
Bryan Adams’ visual representation of “Helmut Berger”, taken from Issue 43’s interview, presents the other nominee for the award. Shooting a day in the life of Berger, Adams offers a striking collection bursting with Bergers’ larger than life personality.
The LeadAwards exhibition will run at the “Haus der Fotografie” in the Deichtorhallen, Hamburg, from September 19 until November 15, 2015.
The winners of the LeadAwards will be announced three weeks after the exhibitions’ opening. Winners will be awarded at the LeadAwards ceremony on October 15, 2015.
Armani Exchange: New Fall/Winter 2015 Campaign
Giorgio Armani’s latest offering presents an urban city landscape as the backdrop, with models venturing around New York in a variety of relaxed shots.
The menswear looks adopt an undeniable Autumnal feeling with the likes of models Sang Woo and George Eliot in denim suits, layered sweaters and the odd splash of paisley print.
Emma Stern Nielson and Charlotte Carey are the faces of the womenswear campaign. The combination of tailored shirts, wide leg trousers and oversized jumpers give the collection a boyish edge.
See the online boutique of Armani Exchange to view more of this minimal Fall/Winter 2015/16 campaign.
Hogan Celebrates The Opening of Their New Boutique in Munich
The second Hogan Boutique in Germany follows their boutique in Dusseldorf as a unique two-storey flagship store, combining modern elegance and sophisticated creativity. Hogan was founded in 1986, and is part of the TOD’s luxury goods group, and has been at the forefront of casual luxury ever since. The Hogan look is dominated by an urban effortlessness; simple, elegant and refined yet relaxed. Hand made from high quality materials, each Hogan garment is a timeless wardrobe staple. Hogan welcomes you to the new Munich boutique with their Fall/Winter 2015/16 collection. www.hogan.com
Moncler Campaign Fall/Winter 2015-2016
Drawn from the dramatic mysticism of the Nordic Sagas and traditional Russian and Slavik folklore, the Moncler advertising campaign takes a dark turn. The formidable photographer Annie Leibovitz evokes in Moncler’s fairytale a take on various literary inspirations: from Tolkien to Hans Christian Andersen. Breathing life into these reimagined characters are the siblings Lucky and Pyper Smith, of the band “The Atomics”. The stunning backdrop of the glacial Icelandic landscape frames the characters within a dream-like cinematography. Echoing the color palette of the Moncler collections, the earthy, raw tones are intertwined with nature, embodying the heartfelt relationship of the Moncler approach.
Maison Margiela Fall/Winter 2015 at Paris Fashion Week
Recalling the striking blues of Yves Klein, abstract patterns and what looked like Granny’s crochet patterns, designer John Galliano presented an otherworldly couture collection for Maison Martin Margiela. Disjuncture, contrast and curiosity seemed to be the unifying trend – the collection could swing from showing a majestic coat of beige simplicity to metallic abstraction in the way of a skirt and a paint-splattered ruched top. This fluctuation only served to highlight Galliano’s inventive spirit, and his return to what he does best.
Fendi Couture Fall/Winter 2015 at Paris Fashion Week
After 20 years heading the Fendi house as its creative director, Karl Lagerfeld proves is unwavering presence as a force to be reckoned with within the fashion world. He is the only couturier with a second show at Paris Fashion Week, and as imagined, did not hold back. The show proved as controversial as expected. Its title Silver Moon, the house’s first Haute Fourrure (High Fur) collection drew astonishment both from the public and the audience, a feat the very experienced couturier has managed time and time again. The collection was impressive in its showcased technicality, with Lagerfeld expertly mixing furs, feathers and spectacular embroideries that intended to showcase the creativity and craftsmanship in fur since 1925.
Miu Miu Club and the 2016 Croisière collection during Paris Fashion Week
In celebration of the 2016 Croisière collection and the fashion house’s first fragrance, Miu Miu set the AMO to create a one of a kind pop-up club in the French capital. Inspired by the cabarets of Les Folies Bergères and the jazz-filled streets of Montmartre, the space was a true feast for those longing for the seductive Paris nightlife. Alongside the collection showcase, the event was a full-bodied celebration of Parisian culture, including a cocktail gathering, exclusive dinner and musical performances by several DJs including Seth Troxler and Frederic Sanches who ensured the party was fit for its grand Paris venue. The resort collection echoed the carefree, dark side of the Miu Miu venue, with curiously shaped tops and punkish prints scattered throughout. The silhouette was a mashup of several decades it seems – from 60s minis to 20s drop-waist dresses. It was as if all of Paris’ nightlife ghosts had come alive to celebrate again.
Atelier Versace Fall/Winter 2015 at Paris Fashion Week
It was a dark and twisted fairy wonderland. Pastel colored fabrics draped beautifully and effortlessly around ethereal models were paired with shiny go go-dancer platforms, dark eye makeup and tousled ‘morning after’ locks. The spectacle of the Atelier Versace show was striking – thousands of glass-encased orchids lined the runway, headlining models included Doutzen Kroes, Karlie Kloss, Lara Stone and Sasha Pivovarova and the crowd was not disappointed. Donatella received a standing ovation at the end of the mystical fairy-gone-bad couture showcase. The gowns were mesmerizing and looked to be taken straight out of the Grimms’ original fairy tales – gritty and fascinating as they are.
Prada Fall/Winter 2015-2016 Womenswear Campaign
In a campaign shot by Steven Meisel, the FW Prada womenswear collection features an amalgam of new faces. Avery Blanchard, Estella Boersma, Inga Dezhina, Lineisy Montero, Ine Neefs, Greta Varlese and Maartje Verhoef make up the Prada pack. Embracing the beginning of the meta-modern age, Prada reframes notions of reality in an ode to what they have coined to be a meta-modern femininity. In this narrative, the virtual and the real seem almost indistinguishable – captured in Meisel’s statuesque and vignette-style photography series. Like the innate contrast of the real versus the virtual captured in the campaign, the materials and shapes of this collection play with opposition. Formal trousers are colored statement pink and metallic tops with opera-sleeves signal the emergence of a new ‘uniform - The Prada FW 2015 kind of uniform.
Kenzo Menswear Spring/Summer 2016 at Paris Fashion Week
Showcased in an underground, near alien setting, the Kenzo cave was populated by a congregation of outlandish models. The feel of futurism was undeniable. Reminiscent of a reality not too far off, fabrics were constructed geometrically in earthy shades of green, khaki, yellow and grey. Amidst quirky details, rounded glasses included, there were jackets with ruched sleeves and parachute-looking jumpsuits. The collection gave an impression of comfortable style, as functional as it is fashionable.
Paul Smith Spring/Summer 2016 at Paris Fashion Week
Sir Paul Smith’s SS 16 collection seemed tailor-made for the older rock star generation, retro yet perfectly cool. With hues ranging from subtle greys to eye-popping orange and yellows, the overall impression of the Paul Smith guy was of a man who knows which classics work best and when to inject that little something extra. And this is exactly what comprised the Paul Smith collection – classics, reworked in an exciting manner. From green metallic suits to turquoise and yellow unions – Smith certainly set the brief for the nonchalant rocker.
Raf Simons Menswear Spring 2016 at Paris Fashion Week
Bags were flung across shoulders attached to a literal chain – imitating a heaviness of memory and past. Indeed, Simons’ influences were perhaps more obvious than not, with headscarves cloaked around the models’ faces and that patterned beige coat that seemingly every single elderly woman ever depicted onscreen is in possession of. The chained bags might be symbolic of these vestiges of the past, clinging onto the next generation – here, most explicitly, through clothing. Raf Simons’ collection is perhaps steeped in somewhat heavy conceptualism, but it’s also totally cool.
Diesel Black Gold Menswear Spring/Summer 2016 at Milan Fashion Week
Creative director Andreas Melbostad presented the Diesel menswear collection in industrial surroundings during Milan Fashion week. With a reworked safari garments, the Diesel Black Gold man is irrevocably modernist and utilitarian. Textured and layered, the collection conjures and image of an urban survivalist. Safari pockets are teamed with survival jackets and cool color palettes, echoing a contemporary tailored collection.
Ermenegildo Zegna Menswear Spring 2016 at Milan Fashion week
With effortless drapery, Stefano Pilati truly showcased a mastery of tailoring in the Ermenegildo Zegna Spring 2016 menswear show. Colored darkly, constructed perfectly, the Ermenegildo Zegna man is dressed in a reconceptualization of professional attire. In place of the tight-fitting suit we are presented with a flowing yet unmistakably masculine suit. Some garments are perhaps reminiscent of a sophisticated pajama getup, yet somehow Pilati’s art direction steers the collection away from cliché.
OXYDO Capsule Collection by Felix Bauer
Berlin-based artist Felix Bauer joins the premium eyewear brand in the creation of a Collectors Capsule Collection aimed at reinterpreting the brand's all-time bestsellers while introducing new models.
Incorporating Bauers’ surreal and dream-like illustrations, the eyewear takes on a fantastical and inspiring air of unconventionality. Bold black and white graphics are intrinsic to the Felix Bauer Collectors’ edition glasses, whose monochromatic essence stylizes Bauers’ illustrations of nature.
The OXYDO Capsule Collection by Felix Bauer will be available in four styles, offered as numbered limited edition pieces. The glasses come with a Bauer-designed booklet, which explores the creative process of incorporating the art with the eyewear.
Axel Hoedt: Dusk
Taking you on a journey through the carnival culture of the southwest of Germany, Austria and Switzerland, Axel Hoedt’s project invites a critical and curious take on the representations of carnival. Dusk undermines the often clichéd traditional views of the carnival subculture, whose image is peppered with visions of somersaults and drunken debauchery.
Against the backdrops of simplicity and normality, Hoedt places the performers directly in the frame of an alternate existence – their lives outside of the revelry for which they are dressed. Photographed in earnest poses and against the backdrop of the harsh winter landscape, Hoedt evokes the true essence of the carnival: the final celebration before the dawning of hard times.
For more about Axel Hoedt’s project, go to:
Nude Animal Cigar – Paul Kooiker
Commissioned by the Fotomuseum in The Hague, Dutch artist Paul Kooiker will present his distinctive photographs at Gallery Kromus + Zink in Berlin. Kooiker’s ouvre is certainly not avoidant of the one-object focus. In fact, his ability to highlight objects, animals and the female form often evoke a lingering, curious gaze. Nude Animal Cigar is no different. Using sepia filtered hues, lit cigars, contorted torsos and animals are exhibited side by side. Unsettling perhaps - yet simultaneously captivating.
The photographs can at times seem like an invasion of privacy, a snapshot taken of those unaware. Kooiker is no stranger to this use of ambiguity, often utilizing provoking compositions in order to deconstruct and depersonalize female bodies. Perhaps part art social critique and part post-war cultural satire; Kooiker undeniably achieves a raise of the eyebrow.
The exhibition Nude Animal Cigar will run from June 13 until July 25, 2015 at Gallery Kromus + Zink in Berlin (Linienstraße 23).
Read more about Nude Animal Cigar in ZOO Nr. 47 – out now.
Acne Studios Menswear Collection SS 2016
Inspired by the unisex approach to dressing in 70s New York (mostly in the shape of his love of the hard rock band New York Dolls), Jonny Johansson - Acne’s creative director - has taken to creating a bold collection. Following his experiences surfing with surfer come artist Robin Kegel in the Swedish oceans, Kegel’s distinctive surfboard art has colored the collection with individualism. Printed on loose fit jumpsuits in poplin silk and cashmere sweaters, Acne’s take on the hard-rock 70s Swedish surfer is supremely awesome. With billowy shirts, abstract graphics and vivid red, blues and greens, the Acne collection is certainly made memorable.
Diesel Black Gold SS 2016 Pre-Spring
Creative director Andreas Melbostad found his inspiration in Venice Beach for the upcoming Diesel Black Gold SS 2016 Pre-Spring collection. Known for its authentic Californian way of life, the beach, the bustling city and all manners of street inspired art constitute the iconic location.
With its metropolitan DNA, Diesel injects a decidedly sporty take on the edgier Californian, enhanced by a simplified palette of black and white, accentuated by electric blues and grays. Beach sports galvanized this collections’ structure, with chunky zippers, structured fabric choices and ergonomic tailoring details inspired by surfing and diving gear. The collection is diverse – from leather jackets to sports backpacks and jean styles. Minimalism is paired with an effortless and sporty-chic vibe.
HFN Reworked Vol.1 - Various Artists
In this first volume of the hfn’s music catalogue rework series, Neville Attree modifies and electrifies selected tracks from Reptile Youth, Darkness Falls and Human Woman. The Faded Ranger producer Attree twists and reworks in unexpected ways, creating a distinctively club-friendly sound. Using freestyle remixing and retrospective futurism, the producers’ compact instrumental form is delivered to you by way of melodic bass, attuned to both dancing pleasures and lounging leisure.
This reworked revelation includes three instrumental versions of reinvented classics hailing from the label’s formative years. A style reminiscent of “retrospective futurism”, Attree produces works fit for the bustling underground rave to the offbeat if not avant-garde soiree.
Various Artists – hfn reworked eins is available as of 25 May 2015 on hafendisko.
Schwarzhogerzeil Opens On The Torstrasse
Owned by Nicole Hogerzeil, the Berlin located fashion retail store Schwarzhogerzeil has found a new home on the Torstrasse. Recreated in spacious surroundings, the space appropriately reflects the brands hand-picked by Hogerzeil – elegant, minimal and luxurious.
Conceived by the interior designer Sylvester Koziolek, the space has a decidedly Parisian charm ca 1940, yet refined with the features of the contemporary. Neon lighting and sturdy steel clothes racks come together in the creation of a certain ‘Schwarzhogerzeil atmosphere’ - an appreciation of quality and design. Labels to be found include Ball Pagès, Carven, Cedric Charlier, Isabel Marant, Marni, Dries van Note and Perret Schaad.
Opens the 20th of May.
VERSUS VERSACE – Fall/Winter 2015/2016
It is the first collection from Anthony Vaccarello after his permanent appointment as the creative director of Versace. Described by Vaccarello as radical and edgy yet paying homage to the traditional, the FW collection has a decidedly seamless air of timelessness to it.
Revealed during a live online happening, streamed from London, the Versus Versace collection seems the updated closet of a contemporary Scot. With structured coats, tailored suits and the ever so punkish tartan peppered amongst the dark forest greens and the jet-black, Vaccarello interweaves the feminine and masculine, converged under the cloak of the military aesthetic.
The themes are not wholly new to the more alternative-looking side to the Versace fashion house, with Versus Versace having been established in 1989 as the rebellious heart of the Versace oeuvre. Following its mission of instantaneous availability, the collection follows a show now, buy now, wear now mantra.
The collection is currently available at versusversace.com
Converse and COMME des GARÇONS announce new collaboration
The fruits of a collaborative effort between CONVERSE Inc. and COMME des GARÇONS, the brands unveil the fourth installment of their Play Special Edition Chick ’70 Sneakers.
Under the expert eye of the iconoclastic Japanese fashion house founded by designer Rei Kawakubo, the SS ’15 collection features black and milk canvas uppers, reinforced canvas heel strips and cushioned sock liners.
The red “Peeking” heart logo, created by New-York based graphic artist Filip Pagowski, embellishes the limited-edition collection. Featuring four exclusive pairs of premium All Star Chuck 70 sneakers, they come available in both high top and ox silhouettes.
The collection will be available for purchase exclusively at Dover Street Market stores in London and New York, as well as COMME des GARÇONS New York and online on May 14.
TERRANOVA 'Restless' out on KOMPAKT
Following their acclaimed 2012 album Hotel Amour, TERRANOVA presents their new magnum opus RESTLESS. Consisting of the electronic DJ/Producer duo Fetisch and &ME, the latest release is a groovy ten-track collection of cosmic melodies.
The duo’s sixth LP delivers solid sounds for house aficionados, featuring collaborators such as Brooklyn singer Mandel Turner, Denmark’s Lydmor, Bonhomme and longtime collaborator Cath Coffey. Having been produced in “liquid Terranova soundsystem” fashion the LP is inspired by interpersonal and interstellar travelling.
The ambient and sturdy bass-injected sounds take on a melancholic ruggedness with the help of solid vocals. The totality can be described as a ‘dirtier’, outlandish affair. With tracks appropriately named KEPLER 186F and UNDERVERSE, the amalgamation of funky tracks should be ready to rock your interstellar house.
The 12-inch vinyl will be available on Kompakt, along with CD and digital downloads on May 11th.
CHANEL Seoul 2015/2016 Cruise Collection
Colored by Lagerfeld’s elegant crayon-inspired toolkit, the 2015/2016 Seoul cruise collection is inspired by the whimsically refined hanbok, the Korean peninsula’s traditional dress. The May 4th setting framed the angular patterns of the pieces. The Zaha Hadid designed room in the style of neoplasticism, was reminiscent of a sort of Mondrian playground. Nestled between the avant-gardist explosion of color and geometric silhouettes, CHANEL’s trademark appreciation of silks, linens, tulles and lace provided a subtle, yet firm nod towards Mademoiselle Chanel herself.
A contemporary reinterpretation of Asian sophistication, the show was as bold as it was effectual, producing images of a world injected by haute couture playfulness. Closely following the equally as fantastical Paris-Salzburg Métiers d’Art campaign, CHANEL certainly has not fallen short in inspiring reinventions of classics worldwide. The mastery with which Lagerfeld has consummately revitalized cultural classics in the past few years is resolutely underpinned by yet another formidable collection.
To see the show in its entirety, go to
CHANEL, Pharrell & Lederhosen
The Paris-Salzburg Métiers d’Art campaign stars CHANEL veteran Cara Delevingne, tour-de-force musician Pharrell Williams and the now seasoned runway walker Hudson Kroenig. Taken by Lagerfeld himself, the campaign features the collection’s trademark knits, knee-high lace-up boots and lederhosen.
Pharrell Williams, who will be awarded the CFDA Fashion Icon Award at this year’s ceremony, looked suitably at ease in the pieces inspired by the Hamburg-raised Lagerfeld’s roots. By combining the traditions of the region with a touch of Haute Couture, the collection evokes in the viewer connotations of a contemporary von Trapp family.
The collection will be available in boutiques and on chanel.com in June.
Tim Richmond's Last Best Hiding Place
The personal and contemporary odyssey through a landscape of filmic references – Tim Richmond’s Last Best Hiding Place reveals stories true or imagined, photographed over seven years throughout the American West.
A Montanan expression for “living under the radar”, the book’s title references the often haunting and melancholic atmosphere over a breadth of western states. Including images from the states of Wyoming, Montana, Utah and South Dakota, his subjects range from tattooed waitresses to the vast expanses of iconic railway.
Internationally acclaimed and widely published, the British Richmond’s prints have made their way into many a private collection. His departure towards a near ethnographic exploration of the American social and natural landscape encapsulates the cultural complexities and fascinations of stereotype.
The book will be available in a special edition of 100 copies, and a collector’s edition of 10, both signed and with a numbered certificate.
Book launch: Grimaldi Gavin, London, 23. June 2015
Available Europe: May / UK: June / USA: November 2015
The Artist is Absent: A Short Documentary on Martin Margiela
Directed by the award winning New York based writer and director Alison Chernick, the documentary reveals the impact of the Belgian creative genius Martin Margiela – the enigmatic mind behind several of the most consummately striking creations during the past two decades. Notoriously elusive, Margiela is known for his absence in the media, having never given an interview nor willingly posed for photographs.
As a reconstruction of his path to his dichotomous prominence, his presence becomes tangible through images and frames from his creative career, substantiated by personal interviews with some of fashion’s greatest names including Jean-Paul Gaultier, Raf Simons and Suzy Menkes, who have contributed to the mosaic of his extraordinary life. The documentary exemplifies the essence of Martin Margiela’s deconstructivist revolution, and has been acknowledged by the 2015 Tribeca Film Festival in the Best Documentary Short category.
Starting April 20, a short version of the twelve-minute documentary will be shown exclusively on yoox.com, thecorner.com and shoescribe.com. The full documentary will be showcased online from April 27, after the announcement of the 2015 Tribeca Film Festival winners.
Objets Nomades by Louis Vuitton
Louis Vuitton presented the latest project at Salone del Mobile in Milan this year. It completely revolves around travel, something we can always expect with this particular fashion house. Keeping in touch with Vuitton’s core, travel and innovation, they have asked several artists and designers to create objects that embrace the brand’s philosophy.
The collection exists out of perfectly crafted items that are not only useful, but extremely beautiful too. Christian Liaigre created a portable travel desk that can be folded into a suitcase. By combining leather, wood and aluminium, the desk becomes a strong and well-designed item. Atelier Oï on the other hand, chose to design a luxurious hammock, made out of leather strips.
Thompson Hotels can always be trusted to deliver you the finest quality during your stay. Wherever you go, you can count on a unique experience where you will still easily manage to feel at home. Right in the heart of London, the Belgraves combines a homey and warm atmosphere with beautiful design. Tara Bernerd designed 85 rooms, suites, a lounge bar, restaurant and lobby. Every piece has clearly been chosen carefully, to create an environment where you can sit back and just enjoy being there. It is a home away from home, where you can get inspired every day.
Fendi Launches a Digital Boutique
Fendi has just launched their digital boutique. You can now have the experience of visiting a Fendi store whenever you want. Whether it’s a holiday or the middle of the night, you’re always welcome to look around and see the latest capsule collections. The brand is offering you a 360° experience, where service is of high importance. The boutique is open in Europe for now, but the US and Japan will follow later this year.
Calvin Klein Jeans #mycalvins Denim Series
Calvin Klein Jeans brings us a new denim collection inspired by urban streetwear. The collection exists out of logo-driven garments that are comfortable and iconic. For the advertising campaign, the brand has asked fashion photographer Alasdair McLellan to shoot Kendall Jenner and model Simon Nessman in a way that is fresh and typically Calvin Klein.
The line will be sold exclusively at Calvin Klein boutiques and on the brand’s website.
Raf Simons x Fred Perry
The one thing they have always had in common is what makes them such a perfect match. Both have been important brands when it comes to music and referencing subcultures, which has led them to collaborate for the eleventh time. This year, Raf Simons chose for graphical prints and African-inspired shapes. He turns the perfect basic into a striking piece that shows boldness and exclusivity.
click to play video
Hermès as Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski presented her vision on Hermès for the first time with the Fall/Winter 2015 collection. Even though the entire show was essentially Hermès, Vanhee-Cybulski managed to show her own signature as well.
Since Hermès is well known for their leather, she has chosen to put some extra focus on this natural material for next season. The cuts of the garments are straight and give a minimalist vibe. All of this is enhancing the idea behind Hermès luxury; modest luxury with the highest quality, which is made for the wearer to enjoy.
Miu Miu at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
In line with the latest Prada show, Miuccia Prada presented an intriguing character during the Miu Miu show for Fall/Winter 2015. This time, she seemed as if she was a housewife from the fifties, with an interesting, secret job on the side. Ruffles, over-the-knee skirts, eye-catching jewelry and strangely shaped bags all added to her character; making her more fascination then she already is.
Naturally, Miuccia is uses bright colors and unique textures, which all fit her Miu Miu girl perfectly. She is mismatching and overdressing, but staying utterly fashionable. We are sure of one thing: there is never a dull moment with Miuccia Prada.
WUNDERKIND at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
During the latest WUNDERKIND show, Wolfgang Joop gave us interesting combinations. Contrasting colors and clashing prints, bourgeoisie and bohemia. All of this was tangled up together into a collection of garments that still managed to be highly wearable and inspiring at the same time.
Westwood-esque silhouettes and luxurious tailoring emerged together into something that we can call a perfect balance. WUNDERKIND continues to embrace prints, and they do it well.
Vivienne Westwood at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Vivienne Westwood’s Fall/Winter 2015 show was a ball, literally and figuratively speaking. Punk and hippie influences engaged together into a love affair, which made every look so completely and utterly Westwood.
The entire show felt like a reference to a fairytale, but this time it was one on acid. Tall hats gave the assumption that they belonged to snow whites dwarfs, while the red flowered cape seemed to be inspired by Little Red Riding hood. A man in a princess dress (including corset), with his face covered in black lines and his body with tattoos, paraded around as if there was nothing strange going on.
Every garment was interesting and breathtaking, but what Westwood managed to do with our imagination was far greater. She took us away.
Givenchy at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Whatever Riccardo Tisci does for Givenchy, there is always a good layer of melancholy. For Fall/Winter 2015, we see full looks in velvet with cut out patterns that hint to Victorian times. Next to century old details, Latin influences were clearly part of this collection again.
Naturally, we cannot ignore the jewelry that Tisci has brought back for next season. The focus was on the face once again, with nose rings and details under the eyes and on the chin.
Tisci’s Givenchy lady has a certain mystique around her. Her appearance tells a story of brokenness, while still being confident and slightly intimidating.
Lanvin at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Alber Elbaz is good with colors. He is also great with fabrics. He is brilliant with silhouette and always knows exactly when to stop adding. For his latest Lanvin collection, he found inspiration in the desert and in tribal wear. What he presented was proof of how a woman can change constantly. From a modern nomad to a new minimalist, from a powerful ruler to a slightly more innocent companion.
The combination of black velvet and subtle harnesses in leather, gave us some kind of medieval feel. Short ruffles almost felt Siberian and straight lines were minimalistic.
Loewe at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Jonathan Anderson has nothing left to prove, but he continues to amaze us with every collection he creates. The thing with Anderson seems simple; he does not produce or even design, he creates. With every collection for Loewe, he manages to bring us a step closer to himself.
For next fall, we see surprisingly more color then for the previous season. Once again, we see oversized, flared pants with large dresses and coats. The way Anderson drapes his garments combined with the choice of fabric, gives the looks an awkward flow that defines the silhouette. One that continues to intrigue.
Missoni at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Angela Missoni has designed a collection that is a combination of eighties and late nineties vibes. Mismatched prints give us a fresh perspective on Missoni, and what it can be as a brand. Unlike all the black collections we’ve seen the past few weeks, Missoni gives us color for fall. It’s celebrating knitwear and the endless possibilities of it.
Fendi at Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week July 2015
After having collaborated for fifty years, Fendi and Karl Lagerfeld have announced their debut together at Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week. Next July, Fendi will combine its luxurious and distinctive design with their craftsmanship to create the Haute Fourrure collection. Like always, Fendi will be experimenting with fur, and taking it to a different level again.
Max Mara at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
The focus of Max Mara’s Fall/Winter 2015 collection wasn’t a highly unexpected choice. Coats were in the center of attention as models were protecting their bodies with the Max Mara classic: the one and only camel coat.
The rest of the collection contained smart business attire, made for the woman who juggles so many balls at once that we can’t even count them. She runs a company, has a loving family, keeps up with all her friends and continues to finish these side projects we don’t even remember she ever started. She’s a modern woman with a classic taste, one that Max Mara has figured out completely.
A new surprise was seeing the bomber-like jackets and jumpers in quilted satin at the end of the show. Combined with long pencil skirts and fine wool this contemporary look became another timeless ensemble.
Burberry Prorsum at London Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Every season, Christopher Bailey manages to give the Burberry classic a completely new life. For Fall/Winter 2015, he –like many other designers- decided to jump back fifty years to create a collection that was both lavish and engaging.
Mirrors, fringes and the use of suede referred to Woodstock-esque times. Other bohemian elements such as crochet and folklore-inspired prints also dominated the ensembles. Even though the colors and prints were bold, each and every piece seemed to be timeless.
The trench coat was portrayed in various ways, showing its power as an adaptable classic. Combined with over-the-knee boots in patchwork suede, this look is one that will not disappoint.
No. 21 at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
For Fall/Winter 2015, No. 21 tells us a modern fairytale. It takes us into a world of paradise, where serenity and comfort are key. Soft pastels and leafy prints make us want to jump right into the rabbit hole. Details such as black lace gloves under pink chiffon dresses show how subtlety can make the difference.
Alessandro Dell’Acqua, the creative director behind No. 21, can be seen as a master of the art of layering. Different textures and the finest materials are combined to create perfectly balanced looks. Delicate chiffon, warm wool, marvelous fur and subtle lace show his feel for quality and perfect finish.
The collection seems to bring an ode to the soft side of womanhood, something we’ve seen less of for next fall. Kindness and purity are tangled together in the fantasy that Dell’Acqua portrays.
BOSS at New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
It is clear that Jason Wu is trying to steer BOSS into a different direction. Whereas we normally expect the garments to be more utilitarian and formal, Wu is introducing a new way of looking at tailoring. He combines straight lines with curves, accentuates these with bold colors and gives more attention to details.
BOSS is still offering us business attire, but now it is focused on the reinvention of the modern woman. Wu covers her body with innovative fabrics and follows the lines of her silhouette to create a professional but highly elegant look. Naturally, he did not leave out the suit from this collection and created a sixties smoking-inspired ensemble. BOSS is empowering women, while celebrating femininity at the same time. By doing this, Wu is proving us that we should not have to choose.
Alexander Wang at New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Alexander Wang’s warriors are walking a different path. Since his last collections have been inspired by sportswear, he has chosen to go into a rougher direction for next fall.
Wang’s overload of black, the combination with plaid, studded details and heavy shoes clearly link to the music scene of the nineties. In fashion, we always go back to punk, heavy metal and everything else that tries to stay as far away from fashion as possible. It seems as if we adore the things and people that dislike fashion the most. Wang embraces this idea with both arms, and creates a cult of which we all want to be a part of. His use of hardware does not only show the influence of Balenciaga on Wang as a designer, but turns the garments into something utterly sophisticated as well.
Ellen von Unwerth shoots G-Star RAW Spring/Summer 2015 Campaign
Ellen von Unwerth and G-Star make perfect bedfellows, each exalting a strength of soul in body and spirit. Affinity certainly strikes true of this pertinent pairing, coming together to produce this arresting SS15 campaign.
The erratic beauty of von Unwerth’s inimitable photographic style speaks plainly of the endlessly altering merits of denim, wonderfully wavering under G-Star’s empathetic eye for fit. Men’s and Women’s styles span a spectrum to suit all manner of tastes, from chalk-white to cobalt denim, crisp and clean to distressed, skinny to slack. The only invariable, it seems, is a flattering fit, exceptional shape arriving in the form of perfectly-placed pockets and supple, stippling seams, or an artfully adjudged waistband to sculpt the body. Each image bearing the hashtag slogan, “Wear it #tightorwide”, interaction is impossibly inspired, G-Star’s capricious campaign tailored to the individual, just like the jeans.
Diesel launches Spring/Summer 2015 Campaign with #DieselHigh
Since he took to the helm nearly two years ago, Nicola Formichetti has commanded quite a change in the tides for Diesel, leading with the radical #DieselReboot, and arriving now at #DieselHigh.
Launching with the SS15 campaign, #DieselHigh celebrates optimism, love and a soul set on living life to the full. Dependably breaking barriers, Formichetti’s gleeful vision is surprisingly subversive, as smiling faces were shot by the lens of a typically insouciant Nick Knight.
Spontaneous and spirited, models such as Winne Harlow and Charlotte Free vault out of frame, jumping and laughing in a dizzying patchwork of Diesel denim. Photographic evidence, if ever it was needed: Diesel is most certainly destined for higher things.
Hien Le at Berlin Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Hien Le knows how to make sportswear sartorial; for FW15, chubby jerseys doted to sweatpants and sweaters, clean and correct in a piercing Yves Klein blue – a lesson in covetable casual tailoring. Silhouettes were unsullied, but not deprived of charming quirks; arms of crew neck sweaters cropped at the wrists, banded by gently wrinkling cuffs and punctuated by the peep of an ice-white shirt sleeve.
Sweatpants bore tailored crease lines – a dashing detail deepened by the addition of leather laced loafer. As the archetypal marl grey emerged, a scant sight of print played through under plump laser-cut bombers, suitably restrained in its orderly paint strokes.
Camel boiler-suits were buttoned up to the neck, smartened by shirt collars and slipped under smart wool coats. Fisherman knits were fattened-up, dense like brittle honeycomb, but in buttery buff hues, turned over at the neck for a suave sense of charm. Rarely has sportswear been so charismatic.
Amsterdam Fashion Week Highlights Fall/Winter 2015
Amsterdam Fashion Week kicked off to a sterling start with the advent of the Avelon show – a masterstroke in balancing boyish bedraggled tailoring with light, unruffled romance. Felted wools curled the body in sensible tones of charcoal and claret, sculpting wrap jackets, tailored co-ords and simple flared pants. Crombie coats were decked in intrepid Aztec prints – a heavy punch of pattern to punctuate a predilection for purity.
Said Mahrouf followed suit with simplicity for an unusually fluid execution of color-blocking. Bleach white sheaths were cut on the bias, lithely traipsing from shoulder to hips – a bite of crimson or pine green breaking through, but never once breaking the flow. Asymmetric vests curtained over slim tapered pants, but excellence certainly lied in Mahrouf’s sweeping gowns, so whispy and graceful, yet holding a determined strength in their decided geometric cuts.
Liquid cuts also found their way to the center of Barbara Langendijk’s debut collection. Influenced by the flat fabric construction of traditional Japanese textiles, Langendijk draped clean, curtly-cut silk swathes over the shoulders, cloaking sheer chiffon layers in a strict spectrum of blanch and buff gold.
The wildcard arrived in the form of Azis – a plague of digitized monochrome motifs and jarring visual texture. Diamond grid-check scarves were piled high on top of jackets on top of sweaters – a suffocating coddling of wool, snatched away by a sleek plain pencil skirt. Wraparound pinstripe funnel shirts flirted with chunky strap backpacks and varsity jackets adding a touch of scholarly rebellion, while hockey socks and virgin-white sneakers spoke of a wayward sensibility. Parachute silks bust in an exhilarating electric blue to spool salient sportswear, while buttery leathers blocked broad schoolboy shorts in a studious sooty grey, before giving way to the obligatory all-over tartan.
Read about more of the shows at www.fashionweek.nl
lala Berlin at Berlin Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
lala Berlin formed a flawless fairytale this FW15, sleek sweeping gowns in a sapphire spectrum, this season brought something of a Cinderella story. Chiffon sleeved dresses in ice blue slinked down the body and floated to the floor, cut out at the midriff like an inverted bodice, reimagined in negative space. You could say this was Piedayesh’s contemporary twist on the archetypal princess cut – and regal it was.
Gentle pleats plucked in the waist, wispy silken swathes left to fall like water from under elegant embroidered shell tops. Signature kaftans arrived in a pure azure hit, guilelessly graceful with its deep plunging neckline and fanning batwing sleeves, tracing the wrists to evoke the image of a butterfly. Longline jumpsuits ended the tale with a “happily ever after”, emerging as the ball gown’s cooler cousin in an insouciant sable silk, Swarovski epaulettes and all.
The presentation of the collection was a suitably imperial affair, with a gala banquet hosted at Berlin’s covetable restaurant, Crackers, in the company of some very special guests, including Heike Makatsch and Nina Hoss, alongside woman of the hour, Leyla Piedayesh – a fairy Godmother of sorts, seeing Cinderella safely through to midnight.
Valentino at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
It’s easy to detect when there are two minds behind a design because their references are so cryptic – all hybrids and red-herrings. Valentino proves a case in point, as Perpaolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri tread different paths in extracting their inspiration, and yet always seem to end up at the same point. This time, the mood found itself split between the Golden Age of the Ballets Russes in Paris, and the San Fransico Beat generation; disciples of two very different movements, but kindred in bohemian spirit.
For all the starched white shirts and sweaters and cigarette-slim cuts, with FW15, Valentino spawned a whole new movement of their own. Like Piccioli said, “Geometry is a new form of decoration”; he and Chiuri are master mathematicians, it would seem, commissioning Melbourne artist, Esther Stewart, to clad her compartmentalised color blocks over coats, knits and clutch bags – even the carpet wasn’t safe from her burnt, reedy hues. Moss greens and dusky blues struck a discordant note when hit with the shrill bite of tangerine, emblazoned across itemised silhouettes.
Pants assume the guise of denim, taking on a chambray sheen in indigo drills – paired with sheepskin, suede and puddled khaki camo, texture brought palette into line, regimented in Air Force tones. The butterflies of Spring/Summer gave way to their nocturnal cousins, embroidered across bomber jackets in moonlit midnight blue. Meanwhile, maps of the galaxy found their way into felting and charted across arms and chest, before fading to a flagrant op-art affair – a glittering comet shower stippling the surface of a pea-green silk suit. Valentino’s equation was surely a cryptic one, but one that warrants only one solution; two minds are most certainly better than one.
Un Mondo Nuovo by Ennio Capasa
Swapping the stoic classicism of Milan for the pulsing pace of Tokyo in the early eighties must have confronted quite a culture shock to a young Ennio Capasa. After completing his studies in Southern Italy, Capasa, just twenty years old, uprooted to Tokyo to work under the ultimate avant-gardist, Yohji Yamamoto, for three years, before returning to Italy to establish his own inimitable label, CoSTUME NATIONAL.
The leap was a lucrative one, an experience every bit as surreal as the aesthetic he was augmenting. Fulfilling a promise he had made to Fumi Yamamoto, Yohji’s mother, Capasa has released a book, Japan: A New World (Un Mondo Nuovo), immortalising his time spent in Japan – a chapter of his life which cast the die for his instinctively polyhedral work.
As an exceptional extension to the book, from 11th December 2014, Un Mondo Nuovo will illustrate the tale with the launch of its dedicated internet platform and parallel Instagram and Tumblr channels. The global interactive diary serves as a sensory mood board, exposing an fresh facet of Capasa’s intellect and experience, brought to life by videos, sound and news unearthed from the unpublished archive of a master who has ceaselessly innovated for over 25 years.
Launch of Saatchi Gallery / Deutsche Bank Art Prize for Schools 2015
'The Babysitter' by Rosie Rendles. 2014 shortlist.
This year's 'Saatchi Gallery / Deutsche Bank Art Prize for Schools' is now open for submissions. The globally-oriented competition aims to encourage and guide emerging artists by providing them with a platform to present their work. Primary, secondary and sixth form schools from all over the world are welcome to enter as many students as they wish, provided they are up to 18 years old. It should be noted that there are no restrictions on the medium used.
The winning school's art department will receive a £10,000 prize, and an additional £2,000 will be awarded to the winning student.
The deadline for entries is 13 January, 2015.
'Journeys' by Matt Rooney. 2014 shortlist.
'Feeling: A Frog in the Sewer' by Victoria Ji-Soo Han. 2014 shortlist.
Miu Miu Fall/Winter 2017
Fluffy fur - fake fur - in a deep shade of lilac, literally covering the sits, walls, columns and the grand stairways of the spectacular concrete architecture of Palais d’Ièna designed by pioneer Auguste Perret for the Exposition Universelle held in 1937.
Miuccia Prada is not new to strong statements during dark times like the current political atmosphere. And she does it in the most dramatic and fun way we have known her for. For Fall Winter 2017 Miu Miu’s girl is covered with fake fur of all the possible sorbet colours: lemon, papaya, green apple, vanilla, tangerine. Mix-matched with sultry embellished silk gowns in soft powder pink and multicolour sporty striped knitwear.
A powerful woman who is not afraid to show off her girly femininity. Miuccia Prada knows how to energize a tired crowd at the end of an intense fashion week calendar. It was all about that: being positive, energetic, alive. Wrapping oversized fuzzy coats, at times embellished with bejewelled belts, but also matching furry caps, and obviously the spectacular portfolio of accessories to give the final blow. It’s pure glamour, a bit 40s, a bit 70s. It’s Miu Miu on the nth degree and we cannot but love it.
Hermès Fall/Winter 2017
“How enduring, how we need durability / The sky before sunrise is soaked with light / Rosy colour tints buildings, bridges, and the Seine” Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski chose Nobel Prize Czes?aw Mi?osz as backdrop for her collection. More than an homage to her ancestors, it’s the sense of surprise and anticipation every non-Parisian feels when experiencing this city that Vanhee-Cybulski aimed to hint. It’s that wandering around as in a sort of situationist walk, not sure what will resurface from its powerful heritage. The expectation and the excitement.
Hermés Fall/Winter 2017 is all that. Vanhee-Cybulski’s wish to build Hermés identity as timeless but playful, a dialogue between the contemporary fresh attitude with that effortless spirit expressed since her first collection at the French house, was clear from the start. The collection felt polyhedric and at a closer look it revealed all its beautiful craftsmanship.
A beautifully timeless wool long cape in midnight blue lined in a rosy dusty brick tone and paired with a sporty ribbed sweater and tights. A sweeping floor leather coat in pale powder pink. Classic cut pants and laced-up thigh-high boots as borrowed from man’s wardrobe. Relaxed turtleneck knits matched with statement patchwork leather outwear with shearling trim. But also 70s vibes with scarf dresses in mousseline. Vanhee-Cybulski is revising the codes of haute modern dressing for this equestrian-routed French maison.
Acne Studios Fall/Winter 2017
When everyone is playing urban street-wear, Jonny Johansson used a romantic and soft approach for his Acne Studios Fall/Winter 2017.
The creative director is transforming the Scandinavian brand known for years as a denim forward label with a minimalist approach. For a while now we have seen Acne Studios feeding a new direction, a new light in terms of the brand’s identity increasingly far from the street. Acne Fall Winter 2017 is a spontaneous and playful collection with a strong sense of individuality and easiness.
Soft oversized mohair knits with polka dots, gently alluding to a sense of naiveté. Floral prints combined on a big selection of fabrics, from cotton to silk plissé. Long coats, in beautiful classic textiles, pin striped or checked, evolving into tunic-like dresses turned back-to front.
Johansson plays with the notion of tailoring almost as an ironic gesture, to vouch for the idea of an uncomplicated way of living, a different way of feeling the notion of femininity itself.
The designer’s love for accessory research once again was expressed with the beautiful statement jewellery in metal and enamel, together with the large oversized bags with wide straps and graphic knots. The asymmetric shades matching the floral deconstructed dresses and creating a further contrast to the soft organic feel of the whole collection gave the perfect youthful accent. We see a confident woman, she is intuitive and optimistic. No matter what.
Dries van Noten Fall/Winter 2017 Ready-to-Wear
Imagine a tribe of legendary models from the 90s, with their ageless beauty, power walk and barely-there makeup. Imagine them now walking for the most loved and respected fashion designer of our time for his 100th show.
Dries van Noten surprised everyone when the show started: all the models who walked for him, from the very beginning, were all present: Amber Valletta, Caroline de Maigret, Malgosia Bela, Kirsten Owen, Trish Goff, Kim Noorda, Guinevere Van Seenus and legendary Kristina de Coninck opening the show. Together with the more recent favourites. It was an overwhelming flow of emotions for whomever has followed and worked with this acclaimed Belgian designer since 1993.
The collection was a parade of all the prints, the cuts, the colours from past collections, the story of Dries van Noten in toto. It was an incredible archive research, as some of the print designs didn’t exist anymore. The strong sentiment of timeless style and ageless beauty was pervasive, look after look. The oversized coat, the relaxed long dresses, the denim, velvet, and beautiful fur stoles. The mix-matched colours with a lemon yellow splashing the entire collection. It was a celebration of joy, of positivity, of the essence of femininity itself.
The sound of a crowded street, the cars, the people, a dog barking accompanied the vastitude of a collection of music and movies extracts played: from Jun Miyake’s Lilies of The Valley - the musician who closely worked together with Pina Bausch, one of Dries Van Noten's dearest muses – to the late David Bowie singing Heroes in the a cappella finale. “…you, you can be mean. And I , I’ll drink all the time. Because we are lovers. That is a fact”
Gucci Fall/Winter 2017-18 The Alchemist's Garden
An air of magical curiosity filled the air as Alessandro Michele's Fall/Winter 2017 Gucci collection was presented at Milan Fashion Week. Complete with streetwear elements, fused with historical costumes and oversized floppy hat featured alongside vest tops with anarchic messaging, the collection was vibrant, exciting and oh-so Gucci.
There's a garden of plants and animals. Inhabited by signs, symbols and archetypes invoking and recalling remote worlds, blending the conscious with the unconscious as imagination forces the inertia of reality. This alchemist's garden is an anti-modern laboratory that refutes rigidity and determinism, aiming instead to recover the complexity of existence with the contradictions that permeate it.
This ubiquitous cycle is perfectly embodied in the Ouroboros, an ancient Egyptian symbol of a snake eating up its own tail. It destroys and conceives in a never ending cycle of self renewal and reflects Alessandro Michele's fascination with the role of fashion in modern society.
Pal Zileri Spring/Summer 2017
British actor Matthew Goode fronts the new Pal Zileri Spring/Summer 2017 ad campaign perfectly embodying the mix of elegance and contemporary tradition that defines the brand's aesthetic.
Shot by German photographer Dylan Don outdoors in the ground-breaking Muralla Roja compound is Calpe, Spain, designed by Spanish architect Ricardo Bofil, Goode displays a unique and controlled attitude against the sun-soaked hues of the buildings.
Color, light and the graphic lines of both the location and the clothes play a key role in expressing the essence of the collection and its distinctive mismatch of 3D textures, volumes and shiny/matte effects, all awash in terracotta red, turquoise, plum, sky blue and burnt orange. The striking architecture of the Muralla Roja building, characterized by interlocking strairs, platforms and bridges, exalts a lifestyle appeal that Goode elevates with his effortless and dynamic sprit, melding time-honored savoir-faire with a fashion-forward twist.
Mode Suisse Edition 11
February 8th 2017 marked the showcase of Mode Suisse Edition 11 at the Migros Museum fur Gegenwartskunst in Zurich. Once again, a wealth of design talent was represented. Among them high-flying label Julia Seeman, Garnison's post-dandy menswear, LYN Lingerie's luxury handmande collection, Julian Zigerli's second appearance of womenswear and gender-fluid menswear that have made him a household name as well as Berlin-based experimentalist womenswear label studiowinkler. Additionally WUETHRICHFUERST made their much-anticipated debut.
The evening's highlights included the showcase of Masters' students Jeremy Gaillard, Flore Girard de Langlade and Vanessa Schindler, who is the winner of the Prix d'Excellene Hans Wildorf. Additonally Zurich favourites enSoie had the audience craving for its nonchalant style while Vivienne Rohner strutted the catwalk laid with previously unseen carpets by Schonstaub. Special guest designerDorothee Vogel's desirable duvet coats and floaty dresses ended the show.
Edition 12 of Mode Suisse will take place in Zurich in September 2017.
Christian Dada Fall/Winter 2017
“It was boundless blue, almost transparent. I stood up, and as I walked toward my own apartment, I thought, I want to become like this glass. And then I want to reflect this smooth white curving myself. I want to show other people these splendid curves reflected in me” The melancholic closing words of Ryu Murakami’s Almost transparent blue - one of the most striking Japanese contemporary novelists exploring the themes of youth and drug abuse - echoed in Masanori Morikawa’s new Fall Winter 2017 collection for Christian Dada.
Puffer jackets in aluminium silver as reminiscent of drug wrappers, Coca Cola-red sweatshirts with Heroin written in the same typography as the iconic American drink, sweaters in psychedelic orange and blue tones serving as glimpse of post-drug hallucinations.
Morikawa’s collection is imbued with duality - certainly the epitome of youth itself – and that uncertainty and struggle of reaffirmation of young individuals. We see relaxed men’s cut shirts that reveal an incredible heavy textile at the touch, deconstructed jackets that show the lining on the outside, lurex raw materials, all surprisingly soft to the touch.
The T-shirt and leather sweatshirts in collaboration with former English fashion designer and illustrator Charles Anastase, all point in the same direction.
Yet Morikawa presented a collection with a composite of Japanese nostalgia. Like the summer nights spent wearing Jinbei – but here transposed in leather and denim – or those high school times – with the tartan motifs from school uniforms juxtaposed here with urban silhouettes. Christian Dada is beautifully grown up and we are looking forward to seeing the evolution of the brand.
Loewe Fall/Winter 2017
A small trumpet as an earring, a shopper completely covered in off-white cable knit wool, a thin leather belt with an ominous brass nose on its centre. The collection of objets trouvés that populated Loewe Menswear Fall/Winter 2017 is not a new element for the quirky mind of creative director Jonathan Anderson.
The mix of fun, classic, and urban elements is something we have seen season after season where individuality has been the key. Beautiful leatherwork as rooted in the brand's Spanish heritage, but also Anderson’s favourite hints to fishermen and sailors’ daily-life. Presented in the Parisian showroom the collection is the image of a further complexity and playful daring attitude from the English designer now in his fourth year at the helm of Loewe.
It was certainly the beautiful shearling one of the spotlight of the collection. In deep cobalt blue with black leather details, in denim, or in a striped rainbow coloured version, to pump up our gloomy mood in rainy, cold Paris.
Mixed and matched tartans and handbags with imaginary propaganda newspaper titles gave a further energising accent to a splendid collection full of craftsmanship and a romantic post-industrial atmosphere.
G-STAR RAW presents RAW RESEARCH II by Aitor Throup
Exploring the unlimited possibilities of denim has become Dutch brand G-STAR RAW's latest challenge. The brand presented its latest project, RAW RESEARCH II, in Paris' Palais De Tokyo.
Curiosity and experimentations brought this project to life creating a capsule collection, its pieces a prototype of the latest in denim innovation. The collection features a brand new 3D denim concept: the “ Motac” series. An ergonomic study of the human body in motion gave birth to Motac, created to make garments with perfect fit and versatility thanks to a combination of rigid denim and flexible fabric panels.
To pay homage to G-STAR RAW's homeland, its new creative director Aitor Throup used the iconic Dutch tulip as a conceptual backdrop. Tradition and innovation were brilliantly fused together.
GmbH Fall/Winter 2017: When a thought becomes you
In a Society of Limitations where people are together yet alone, GmbH addresses the situation with an inclusive Fall/Winter 2017 collection dedicated to different shapes, gestures and manners.
The collection paired fashion with sustainability featuring bi-colour cropped GmbH biker jackets reworked from recycled, reversible Helly Hansen puffer coats, cropped jersey hoodies and fine knit athletic bodies of partially recycled fibres. A shot of glamour is given by tight lycra and velvet long-sleeved jumpers in a color palette inspired by artist Alexandra Bircken. Moreover traditional carpenter’s guild trousers and gold embroideries enrich the outfits for an even more personal touch.
As GmbH declared: “These are directives for care and wear, eine wahre Geschichte, eine Warengeschichte, a true story a history of wares.”
Kenzo Fall/Winter Menswear 2017
Imagine the backstage of a show brought on stage, in the spotlight, able to witness it at 360°, as in Walter Gropius’s Total Theatre: from the make-up to the models line-up, from the food banquet to the backstage photographers roaming around, from the seamstress fixing the last detail seconds before the start to the laughs between models.
Humberto Leon and Carol Lim created this unexpected backdrop for Kenzo Menswear and Womenswear Fall/Winter 2017 collection in the name of the environment, making clothes the real stars of the runway and leaving the backdrop in its neutrality in order to give funds to environment organizations instead of making a wonderful yet costly set.
A vision that was reflected all over this Arctic inspired collection. The triggering Arctic changes and the – unknown to many – Arctic surfing were, indeed, the paths followed by Leon and Lim who presented a multitude of over-layered looks in an impressive colour palette. It was overwhelming and, as Kenzo’s signature, fun and youthful.
The dip-dyed long knits in rainbow colours with matching ski masks worn under solid coloured puffa jackets and graphic digitally printed technical ski suits.
The Womenswear collection followed up in a more gentle and feminine declination. We saw easy urban long cable knit dresses, A –line coats, teddy handbags and delicate dresses with transversal side cuts, revealing floating strings, as a sort of intellectual reference to the increasingly undergoing destruction of our Mother Earth.
A dandy poem by Alexander McQueen
A dandy spirit that explores the deepest sides of Oscar Wilde's soul during an esoteric trip that Germans call Wanderlust. A contemporary gentleman traveling from London's Tite Street to Paris Saint Germain seeking inspiration from the world that surrounds him.
Alexander McQueen documents this journey through his latest menswear collection, paying homage to the man who has become synonymous with the term 'esthete'. British tailoring plays a central role in a collection that encapsulates and celebrates the house's trademark codes. Precise and elongated cuts in suits with peaked shoulders and legged or flare trouser silhouettes – worn cropped above the ankle and sometimes with a satin or velvet band on the sides, offer their elegance to coats and jackets alongside jacquards with peacock feathers for the most daring dandies. The collection also explores and plays with proportions, combining classic and more of-the-moment oversized fits to give birth to a new hybrid of men's shirt-dresses. A worn-in feel is brought forward by mohair knits, frayed at the edges and laddered with holes. For the evening, Alexander McQueen’s Fall/Winter 2017 features tuxedos, smoking jackets and robes with satin quilted reveres, embroidered velvet and jacquard to give an incredible taste of elegance to a collection that is worth of an old-fashioned gentleman.
McQueen's latest collection is a true ode to Oscar Wilde, done in incomparable style and honing in on elements that have granted the brand the status it holds today. No doubt it will be at the receiving end of countless praises this season.
Rocking it with Dior Homme
A utopian sense of refined grunge has always characterized Kris Van Assche's creative direction at Dior. For Dior Homme Summer 2017, Van Assche's dynamic energy is reflected through a new generation of four inspired characters: A$AP ROCKY, Boy George, Rami Malek and Ernst Klimko.
A 'do it Yourself' attitude runs through the brand's creative direction this season, a path that the four diverse Dior Homme personalities will follow, eventually converging to personify the house's vision of Homme. The campaign's four faces may embody different disciplines of modern art but through Van Assche's direction, they provide an all-encompassing, cohesive undertone for the French house's men's collection.
Interestingly, hip-hop is made elegant in this line giving birth to intriguing pieces such as the dark floral garments designed by Japanese artist Toru Kamei.
Shot through the streets of Paris and in studio by photographer Willy Vanderperre, the campaign pairs heritage and an innovative rock, raw-edge mood that will undoubtedly make it a key player in Dior's already impressive campaign portfolio.
Schiaparelli’s Haute Couture moment has come
Schiaparelli Maison, Chanel's historical rival is definitely back on the scene after a long hiatus. This January marks a milestone for the celebrated maison as the French Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture decided to enlist Schiaparelli among the 15 fashion haute couture brands existing in the world.
Ravaged by the aftermath of the war, Elsa Schiaparelli closed her iconic Paris "Schiap Shop" in 1954, the very same year that saw the release of her autobiography "Shocking Life". It was only three years ago that Italian businessman Diego Della Valle decided to revive Schiaparelli, believing in the power of its indomitable style and unparalleled innovative techniques.
Alongside stores of long-established brands in the field such as Chanel, Givenchy and Dior to name a few, Elsa's shop in Paris' Place Vendome is opening its doors again to pick up where it left of, starting a new chapter in haute couture history.
LOUIS VUITTON CELEBRATES 30TH ANNIVERSARY IN BERLIN
France and Germany join in for the celebration of 30 years of Louis Vuitton, the brand synonymous in everyone's mind and many hearts with élégance française.
Louis Vuitton celebrated its birthday with the opening of its latest concept store in Berlin's Kurfürstendamm. Celebrities and influencers from the world of fashion were present to mark the joyous occasion. A combination of craftsmanship, savoir-faire, continuous innovation and heritage - all keywords for the long established brand as well as the city that played host to its celebrations.
Berlin incomparably contemporary dynamism and Parisian haute couture give birth to 'amour toujours'.
The world through Henk Schiffmacher’s “camereyes”
When Texas, Henk Schffmacher's daughter discovered her father's old 35mm negatives in a dusty drawer, she knew they had to be exposed for the world to see.
Dutch tattoo artist, Henk Schiffmacher has become known for his energetic and observational photographic work that is now being collected and exhibited for the first time ever. Highlighting the best and worst facets of modern society, this eclectic ensemble of pictures is a real representation of the world we live in through Schiffmacher's camera.
Taken between 1970 and 1985 these pictures give us a raw insight into the world of youths, bikers and tattoo fetishists from all around the globe – from Las Vegas, L.A., Amsterdam, and Tokyo to Mumbai, Manila, San Francisco and Kuala Lumpur.
This makes for an interesting juxtaposition: a wild mix of cultures, nationalities and excess against the backdrop of vintage cityscapes and timeless scenarios. Schiffmacher's photography offers a unique and brilliant view of the world as it was four decades ago.
Pure, direct and unprecedented just like photography should be.
PIRELLI CALENDAR 2017: An Unfiltered Emotion
“In a time when women are represented in the media and everywhere else, as ambassadors of perfection and youth, I thought it was important to remind everyone that there is a different beauty”
‘Emotional’, the title chosen by Peter Lindbergh for the 2017 edition of the iconic Pirelli Calendar. No other word could strike such a chord in women’s hearts that, nowadays, find themselves fighting against unrealistic beauty standards imposed by society. Fighting to fit in a world in which all things beauty are accompanied by a certain degree of fakery.
Pirelli Calendars have always been seen as conveyors of a specific message of perfection that could be hardly afforded by us, mere mortals. Following Annie Leibovitz’s thread of last year, Lindbergh decided to let beloved actresses shine through their nakedness. Not a nakedness imposed by the lack of garments but by the absence of filters.
The choice of abstaining from Photoshop editing is indeed the leading theme of the 2017 Calendar, which includes actresses like Uma Thurman, Penelope Cruz, Nicole Kidman, Kate Winslet and Julianne Moore in all their natural feminine splendor. The beauty that speaks about the courage of being yourself in your own sensibility.
Lindbergh’s message wants to reach all women who feel worthless, despicable, and inadequate in a way that only an artist of his caliber could achieve.
Miami Beach Art Basel 2016: between emerging artists and Zoo’s familiar faces
Between the 1st and the 4th of December, Miami’s miles of sandy beaches and glittering nightlife will transform into a dense and dynamic cultural event: The Miami Art Basel.
269 leading galleries from all over the world will provide visitors the opportunity to experience works from the masters of modern and contemporary art, as well as discovering the creativity and freshness of new emerging stars.
The main exhibition hall will house paintings, drawings, sculptures and photographs from world-renowned creators while the nearby beaches will serve as the backdrop for ambitious artwork, film installations and performances. Artists from an array of cultural backgrounds, different generations and art styles will offer visitors a glimpse into their creative minds in order to enhance the way that the infinite world of art is brought to the public.
Miami Art Basel is fast approaching and amongst the many to showcase their talent, we have spotted a few familiar faces. What better way to participate in this celebration of Art? Let’s revisit the work of some who have graced the pages of ZOO Magazine throughout the years in our selection below:
Courtesy of SCAI THE BATHHOUSE
The Day the World Turned Auerbach, 1991
Courtesy of the artist
The Flux and the Puddle, 2014
Courtesy of Andrea Rosen Gallery, New York
Courtesy of Alex Daniels
Dance your style off at Pitti Uomo 2017
Between 10-13th of January, dance and fashion will create a perfect parallelism in what is preannounced to be the most multimedia and vibrant edition of Pitti Uomo.
During its 91st season, the Florence fashion kermises will show the previews of F/W menswear collections following the slogan “ Tell me how you dance and I’ll tell you how you dress”.
Pitti Dance Off, the theme chosen for the whole exhibition, wants to be an invitation to express our body and attitude evoking the ultimate essence of diversity and encouraging freedom of personal style as a common thread for both dance and fashion. Over 1220 brands, among Zegna, Paul Smith, Tommy Hilfiger and new emerging talents will participate, dancing together at the rhythm of street style music. A special #PittiSign has also been launched, a sort of distinctive “finger tut” taken from the street dance tradition in order to symbolize Pitti Immagine’s initials and create awareness around the exhibition between the youngest.
With sets designed by architect and designer Oliviero Baldini, irony will be the key to literally invade the famous Fortezza da Basso welcoming new menswear, and maybe social, horizons.
Acne Studios now open in NYC
The corner of Madison Avenue and East 74th street, New York city – the Big Apple's iconic block has just been injected with a fresh and futuristic allure.
The novelty comes from Scandinavian brand Acne Studios, known for its well-designed signature pieces, that has just opened its latest flagship in the city that never sleeps.
Here, design meets fashion through the use of gold as Acne's signature tone along with interiors fully decorated with gilded metal walls and aluminum fittings. Colors and lights in fresh combinations make for a stand-out yet recognizable look. Black asphalt floors dotted with glittered stones meet crafted bronze desks under a full lighting ceiling that brighten up the entire space.
Acne Studios founder Jonny Johansson was attracted by the city's multicultural identity which he believes to be the future but was eager to retain the city's essence in the store's design. “I think you always have to consider what space you’re in, where you are, what your opinion is about that. It’s more work, and it’s probably more expensive in the end too, but it’s also more fun.”
Aitor Throup appointed Executive Creative Director for G-Star Raw
Following three successful years as creative consultant to the brand, G-Star Raw announces Aitor Throup as its Executive Creative Director. Since 2013 the Argentinian-born British designer has worked closely with the brand developing new approaches to 3D denim design and was also involved in the development and concept of the denim superstar's flagship store in London's Oxford Street. Throup directed the recent 'What is RAW?' global advertising campaign and launched RAW Research, his first collection for G-Star during Paris Men's Fashion Week. The transition from consultant to Creative Director was an organic one for both the brand and artist who shares G-Star Raw's design ethos that holds innovation as one of its core values.
Emotions of the Athletic Body
Giorgio Armani may not be antagonising the wave of riotous change this season, but unruliness has never been his game. Armani has remained a respectable pillar of Italian fashion for its faithfulness to a fundamental aesthetic – a disciplined dress code which only surpasses itself with the passing of the seasons, embracing innovation and so setting the bar higher. On cue, SS17 sculpted an artful offering of the classic chrome color palette, burnished silver silks bleeding into the Persian blues of painterly prints. Fabrics fell with the weight of a feather, film-fine cardigans cutting across bodies to drape over gathered city shorts. Technicality tended to fluid fabrics, filing them with a terse edge, as laser cutting boned a skeletal lattice of ankle boots, and light trails traced satin shell tops as digi-prints. Florals blotted and blurred across bunched ruffled tea dresses and watery kimonos whose hems frothed a foam of macramé tassles. Tailoring, meanwhile, punctured blunt shapes in thermos-sealed neoprene, cropped jackets uncompromisingly ageless despite their advanced engineering. It’s no coincidence that Armani’s dexterity under discipline spawns an esteem for the mastery of sport. Staging at Milan’s Armani/Silos gallery, the designer has curated a photographic display depicting the admirable art of athletics. With shots dating from 1985 to the present day, images exude an enduring power and permanence printed onto imposing slabs of concrete, and feature the world’s most legendary athletes wearing Armani, sourced from campaigns, magazines and a previously unseen archive.
Emotions of the Athletic Body runs at Armani/Silos until November 27th 2016.
CHANEL Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear
For Chanel Spring Summer 2017 Karl Lagerfeld delivered a youthful collection. The models sported a baseball hat with side ponytails and candy glowing make up. A bad-ass attitude versus romantic echoes. Girlish yet elaborate with its high-tech masterful fabrics.
The show at Grand Palais was set again in a grandiose installation, this time emulating a data centre – one of those places where you would imagine Mr.Robot emerging.
Along the exposed wires on server racks, floating dresses with a kaleidoscope of colours, mini skirts, white plissé silk garments with ruffles, all adorned with crystal jewellery and pixelated handbags. Although we feel continuously overwhelmed by the everyday technology and data flow, Karl Lagerfeld’s cyberspace is a bright utopia. Robot headpieces included.
Balenciaga Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear
We have seen it for quite some time now. Big shoulders, oversized garments tightened on the waist and the crazy most wanted item by stylists: the sock-boots. It’s the Demna Gvasalia fever. Bringing in some of the hot themes that punched Vetements to the top, Gvasalia explored that aesthetic for Balenciaga Spring Summer 2017 collection, staying true to his vision. As the boot elevates now till the waist becoming a pant all in one, the trench coats and jackets have a sharper silhouette and 80s shoulders line boned. The lavish bejewelled draped tops in one of the most un-couture material – Spandex, the vivid palette of flowers prints and the latex capes with hoods reinforced that fetish underground 80s vibes. For its second collection as creative director at the iconic French house, the young designer stepped away from that boxy look of last season to create a sleek architecture, conferring an even more powerful effect. It’s a vocabulary that Gvasalia knows well and used it since its work at Maison Martin Margiela. Pushing boundaries, elevating streetculture mixed now with the intelligent subtle reference to Balenciaga heritage.
Versace Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear
If you were expecting overt ostentation from Versace this season, SS17 will have you back on your heels. Sensuality was served in bounds, but it wasn’t offered up on a plate. There were nuggets nestling in the ruching of wrinkled parachute gowns, silks slashed at the neck and snatched at thighs to wrap the body with its impermeable sheen. Asymmetry set the sexiness askew, with bodycon co-ords carved of second-skin jersey silks and mapped with curling bars of sea green and grape. Satin shirts sported their collars splayed, sleeves rolled to the elbows as hems tumbled from waistbands, accordion pleat skirts slipping to the lower hip. As if in a bid to curb the unkempt, fastenings were fastidiously apparent, but even they were trying to escape; side-squeeze buckles slipped from razor-sharp suiting while bulky zips made their way erratically across color-block coats with scarce regard for symmetry, and buttons betrayed their orthodox lines in favor of boomerang bends.
Ribbed wools ran chevron stripes down sweaters, cool hues quelling their urgency, though the quiet didn’t last long. Waxy red leathers bore a more brazen brand of sensuality, a commanding contrast calling upon cropped jackets and silken kilts, sullied by the occasional slubby knit. The only ode to order made a masterwork of the skin, sculpting the strength of naked features, chiselled to par the power cuts which were ironed flat and clipped to a brusque edge.
Nike VaporMax for COMME des GARCONS
Available early 2017 and announced during the CDG Spring 2017 runway show, designer Reo Kawakubo joins forces with Nike to create the Nike VaporMax for COMME des GARCONS. The VaporMax Air, which is described as “a powerful visual appearance of walking on air” consists of a thin consistency providing cushioning. Redesigned to fit Kawakubo’s contemporary aesthetic, the new model is a slip-on alternative of the VaporMax.
Yohji Yamamoto Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear
Delicate, intimate and certainly emotional. For his Spring Summer 17 collection Yohji Yamamoto staged a tale narrating the story of a lifetime spent creating pure poetry of deconstructed fashion and undisputed tailoring mastermind. Assisting at a show of Yohji means assisting the living maestro who shaped fashion history itself. But also the genius production of a designer who is not bending to the crude connotations of fashion system. Last Friday night, while an unexpected rain was briefly pouring in the streets of Paris, Yohji Yamamoto showed a collection full of beautifully draped silhouettes softly floating around the body of the models. But also deconstructed jacket and coats, sometimes just worn over one shoulder or as bustier hold by strategic straps, almost as connotation of the urge to shift from the conventional, the urge to create in its pure terms. All in black and white with a slash of red. The brush strokes placed gracefully on the garments were recalled by the same motif on the face of the models created by master make up artist Pat McGrath. Like the violent gesture of a painter in the moment of inspiration. The beautiful knitwear bandaging the body as assertion to some sort of laceration. As the model walked in, many in the audience felt that suspension, that poetic silent shout to life.
Dries Van Noten Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear
The ecstatic, almost suffocating, atmosphere of pure beauty. Dries Van Noten once again staged a show of intricate play of contrasts. Fragments of beautiful Japanese flowers prints collages almost like randomly splashed on white and neutral coloured garments were followed by Victorian-like beaded collars and mourning veils. A bright warm yellow together with deep black. As the models started to walk in, silently, with just the click clack of their heels in the background, the magic of daring, like only the Belgian designer can undoubtedly master, gradually unveiled: there were clean and raw linen looks followed by their counterparts in beautiful printed silk. Sporty shorts and tee in white matched with a black patents leather long coat. A long denim skirt paired with a bomber jacket in the most opulent silk. Embroidered black tulle together with a caramel sweatshirt.
Dries Van Noten created a collection were a complex sense of time and place played along with a fragile beauty. The fragility of fresh flowers that artist Makoto Azuma arranged in 23 beautiful ikebana sets, merged for 2 weeks in subzero water just before the show and forming beautiful ice sculptures that adorned the catwalk. As the show arrived to an end and the glittery ice blocks started to melt forming random water patches on the floor, we couldn’t be other than overwhelmed by the mesmerising sense of such a dramatic message: all beautiful things come to an end. But not certainly the magic of Dries Van Noten.
Moncler Boutique Macau Wynn Palace
The second Moncler boutique in Macau has opened at the Wynn Palace. The interior of the 130 mq store is developed by architectural firm Gilles&Boissier. Two large shopping windows invite the consumer in the Moncler sphere. Grey marble floors and white walls create a modern shopping space, which will sell Moncler Gamme Rouge Ready-to-Wear, Moncler and Moncler Grenoble as well as the accessories collection for men and women. The opening of the Wynn Palace boutique comes a year after the first franchise opened at the Galaxy Macau.
Adidas at the Olympics in Rio
Designed for the athletes currently in Rio for the Olympics and competing in September at the Paralympic games, Adidas has developed a variety of new applied science, coloured BOOST technology and designs in athletic shoes. The adizero MD is suitable for races between 800- and 1.500 meter, allowing for higher speeds on the curves of the running course through the special Pebax-and TPU sole. The adizero Avanti design is primarily designed for long distance runs from 1500m to 10000m. This is the first shoe to only have four instead of the usual five spikes, which makes the shoe lighter but still grants enough stability. The 360-Degree Printed Knit, as there’s no insole necessary, is one of the lightest shoes Adidas has ever developed, while the adizero adios is the fastest running shoe in the world at the moment, with German running-twins Anna and Lisa Hahner sporting them on their feet.
Aitor Throup's 10th anniversary
Artist, designer and creative director Aitor Throup celebrates 10 years in the fashion and design industry by unveiling a redesigned aitorthroup.com website, which features a complete insight of Throup’s creative archive from the last decade. The compilation of his work shows unseen projects as well as work from the early days of his career and current jobs, from design, film and photography to his work as creative director. The most recent New Object Research collection will be shown, as well as archived projects like the collaboration with Norwegian fashion photographer Sølve Sundsbø, among many others. The Royal College of Art alumni and his ‘A.T. Studio’ challenge traditional systems and propose authentic ideas and new ways of storytelling.
Diesel Fall/Winter 2016 Campaign
Photography duo Santiago&Mauricio worked alongside Artistic Director Nicola Formichetti and stylist Davey Sutton for the Diesel Fall/Winter 2016 Campaign, translating fashion culture and creating a dialogue in a series of honest and humoristic images. As diesel celebrates difference and diversity, cast are a group of individuals with different cultures and personalities. “We worked with director/photographer duo Santiago & Mauricio to shoot beautiful ad impactful images where the product is celebrated with a twist on the traditional advertising images“, reveals Formnichetti.
Alexander McQueen AW16 Campaign
Creative director Sarah Burton and photographer Jamie Hawkesworth came together to create the Alexander McQueen AW16 Campaign, featuring in demand model Mica Arganaraz. The duo has a shared love for British nature and wildlife, which brought them to Shetland, a subarctic island northeast from Great Britain. Placed in the rocky Scottish landscape, Hawkesworth’s images portray a sense of young and surrealistic beauty and continue McQueen’s admiration for romantic, natural scenery.
Vivienne Westwood Autumn/Winter 2016/17 Campaign
“The inspiration for the campaign was completely guided by our Paris show collection”, says Andreas Kronthaler of the Vivienne Westwood Autumn/Winter 2016/17 Campaign which features Ms. Westwood herself. Shot by Juergen Teller and styled by Sabina Schreder, the campaign portrays a spiritual look, cast with a fun and young group of boys and girls, styled in an "East meets West" theme. Kronthaler explains when envisioning the campaign, they were focused on finding a spiritual place to shoot and stumbled upon a middle-eastern rug, which gave them inspiration.
Viktor&Rolf Autumn/Winter 2016
Recycling is the main inspiration for Viktor&Rolf Couture Autumn/Winter 2016, as they look and use their own archive as starting point for their newest collection. Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren use torn up fabrics and mix them to create a new abundant silhouette. The garments are embroidered with buttons, beats and crystals, the looks styled with top hats. Another influence for the collection is Dickens’ Vagabonds, quoting; “Those that belong nowhere, wandering from place to place, roaming the city.” The final sees the wanderers, roaming the runway.
CHANEL Haute Couture Fall 2016
“I thought that was a modern idea to make them participate. They should be shown too”, Karl Lagerfeld says about the CHANEL Haute Couture Fall/Winter spectacle, which saw the Grand Palais transformed into an atelier. Decorated with mannequins, sewing machines, threads and toiles, the show pays tribute to the seamstresses, tailors and dressmakers who make the collections happen. The garments have a polished silhouette, with angular shoulders, three quarter length sleeves and wide-cut trousers styled with leather thigh-high boots. CHANEL’s statement tweed jackets draws focus on the waist with pockets placed on the hips. Autumnal shades are balanced out and enhanced with hints of pink, black and white. Closing the show is CHANEL’s bride, who Lagerfeld has envisions in a bustier and trousers formed from lace tulle and satin, coated with pink and white wool.
Miu Miu Club members were invited to attend the-miumiu-club Paris exclusively for the celebration of Paris Couture Week, to view the Cruise collection and which also showcased the new autumn/winter 2016 campaign. Dirty Pretty Strings performed at the event, on the turntables were Paul Simonon, Kate Moss alongside others. The rooms with impeccable detailing, including the painted ceiling by Paul Baudry, were transformed into clubrooms such as a cinema, restaurant and show house. This was held in the Hotel de la Paiva on the Champs-Elysees, built mid-1800s as private residence for commissioner Esther Lachmann, also known as La Paiva. Miu Miu Clubs are also held in London, Shanghai, Los Angeles and Macau, China.
Interview Dawid Tomaszweski at Berlin Fashion Week SS17
German-Polish designer Dawid Tomaszweski started up his business in 2009 and has in just a short time drawn us all in with his refreshing new take on luxury women’s wear. We spoke to Dawid after his Spring 2017 show at Berlin Fashion Week.
Hi Dawid - You’ve been designing for quite some time now. Do you still get nervous before your show?
I still get a little bit anxiety before every show. I have never done a show based on whether it will work or not. Every collection is a result of hard work. In the collection I always show my vulnerability, so I still get the butterflies in my stomach before the show.
As a designer always staying ahead of what’s already been done, and creating innovative and modern collections, where do you get your inspiration from?
My surrounding is my inspiration. One one hand - the city that I am living in Berlin, it’s contemporary art, painters, architects etc. On the other hand - I get my inspiration from people, who are around me. My friends, family and of course from my mom - the biggest supporter, the woman who has a huge influence in my life and will always have.
Autumn/Winter 2016 was shown in January, which was a structured, coloured collection. How is Spring 2017 different?
Spring 2017 is a new chapter in my ''collection book’’. It is a new story, a fantasy, a sweet dream that comes true. Delicate, soft pallets, gentle feminine silhouettes, the fairy tale that was named ''Blushes’’.
Your garments have been featured in magazines like Vogue and Vanity Fair. Has there been a turning point in your career that stands out?
For sure. Appearance in such magazines as Vogue, Vanity Fair means a lot to me as well as to my brand. But I’ve never created for fame or success. I am just doing what I love. I am truly dedicated to my job and it is a result of my work.
Berlin has turned into a fashion hot spot in recent years. What is it about Berlin?
Berlin is a place where so many cultures, ethnicities and nationalities found their corners, it is a city that ''has something in stock’’ for everyone. It is always changing, open-minded city, free and wild.
Is there anything you’d still like to achieve? What does the future hold for Dawid Tomaszweski?
I have never limited myself with my dreams. I create, I design and I see the results. I’m not thinking what future holds for me, I am working on my future and I am achieving.
Atelier Versace Fall 2016
The Fall 2016 Couture shows are happening in Paris right now, where Versace showed its Atelier Fall 2016 collection. “I love the elegance, sophistication and drama of today’s woman. This is a collection that reveals a woman’s power, and her allure”, Donatella Versace reveals of her latest show. The collection portrays elegance and it experiments, with volume and new ways of draping. Evening gowns are paired with tailored trousers and has a certain fluidity to them, as the pleats create a strong silhouette against the body. Jackets graciously fall off the shoulder, the cashmere evening coat is freely embellished with Swarovski crystals and styled on the feet are high heels, detailed with knotted bows of leather falling over the toes.
MBFW: Wendy&Jim SS17
In seventeen years of creative matrimony Hermann Fankhauser and Helga Ruthner of Wendy&Jim have yet to show signs of slowing down. Their showcase for SS17 at Berlin’s famed Galerie Crone was a breath of fresh air as much as a throwback to fashion’s heyday in the ought’s. After meeting at the Viennese University of Applied Arts in 1999, where Helmut Lang mentored them, they moved on to be a fixture at Paris Fashion Week – a promising teaser for their stint at MBFWB. A wonderland somewhere between Japanese manga and street performer opened up on the gallery’s first floor: a cross-legged model in a long black robe with pleats hovers about a meter above an artificial patch of grass, littered with cigarette buds and all. Another, dressed in a flower-clad kimono, holds on to a potted plant while the next one floats beside a street sign.
The collection itself is urban street wear rooted smack dab in the middle of Antwerp and Tokyo: an International Klein Blue hooded track suit paired with yellow socks in sandals and reflective wrist bands or a tunic and long skirt adorned with flowers. A little more out there, yet wearable are drop-crotch cycling shorts with spandex-turned-stray jacket tops in either yellow or red paired with cowboy boots or an equally tight ensemble of cycling shorts and crop top emblazoned with a creature that’s half snake, half sassy lady sticking out her tongue. A second room held a much more somber installation: a model in a white jumpsuit hovered above a bed in an otherwise dark room, while a performer on his illuminated skateboard circled the room, reliving the last days of disco. An exciting SS17 collection and an equal parts whacky and enchanting presentation by Wendy&Jim only begs one question: Will you be back for more, please?
Amanda Seyfried for Miu Miu AW 2016
Miu Miu has fused high-society with a modern twist for their AW16 campaign, shot by the renowned Alasdair McLellan and and styled by LOVE magazine’s Katie Grand. The collaged images featuring Amanda Seyfried depict a high society replete with tea maids and pearls, with a distinct Miu Miu spin on the coquettish elite. Following in the footsteps of last week's eyewear campaign featuring 14-year old Kaia Gerber, Cindy Crawford's daughter, these striking images are sure to turn heads.
Nosomnia SS17 Preview
A brand that “develops a hybrid between classical menswear and urban style through innovative ideas and unexpected creation.” Keep your eyes on Copenhagen-based menswear brand Nosomnia, who’s just announced a preview for its Spring/Summer 2017 collection called ‘Every Piece Matters’. The preview is a series of serene, but artistic images shot in a field, capturing the dynamic use of colour in the collection, the embroidered detailing in the garments and the brands nostalgic touch of youth.
PFW: Loewe Presentation Spring 2017
Loewe unveils its Spring 17 collection in a suggestive setting where Ibiza summer nights and a bohemian lifestyle reinterpreted are protagonist. Jonathan Anderson again plays around the contrast of natural textiles like linen, cotton, cord together with the main star of the brand, leather. Fluent long tunics in organic natural shades are combined with modern siluettes in pop colours. Relaxed, fresh and youthful. A summer time where we are all dreaming to dive.
PFW: ACNE STUDIOS SPRING 2017
"A fresh take on menswear – one that is very crip and clear,” thus revealing Creative Director Jonny Johansson. Presented in the Lycée Charlemagne, Acne Studios Spring 2017 resembles the atmosphere of Swedish summers, as the collection looks at materials and silhouettes inspired by tents and uses colours and patterns giving a sense of nostalgia. Waterproof jackets are incorporated into the collection, which is where we see the tent-influence; the zip-up jackets have an A-line silhouette on the back which resembles tents, while ponchos are made to be fastened in multiple ways. Knitwear is designed in a variety of densities and styled with shirts underneath and wide-legged pants featuring long zips on the side.
PFW: GIVENCHY SPRING 2017
Spring/Summer 2017 for Givenchy presents an urban, travel collection, blending precise tailoring with hints to signature street style elements. Riccardo Tisci has yet again achieved to create a line-up of attractive attire, with styling immaculately done by Katy England. Models are donned with gelled hair and what looks like ear stretchers. The colour palette shows camouflage colours, striped ensembles and prints including pyramid symbols and the Eye of Providence. Models Kendall Jenner and Bella Hadid featured on the runway showing the brands women’s wear.
Palm Angels Spring/Summer 2017
Francesco Ragazzi reveals he looks through the Palm Angels book and choses an image to get inspired, this time one of a skater reminding him of Jimi Hendrix. Ragazzi envisions today’s youth at modern music festivals like Glastonbury and Coachella, meeting for their collective love for music and new icons. Palm Angels exhibits this new generation in its latest collection, which is filled with youthful, energetic pieces and gives off a athletic and college vibe.
Keira Knightley for CHANEL
CHANEL reveals as new face for the COCO CRUSH advertising campaign for Fall 2016 being British actress Keira Knightley, directed by Mario Testino. The actress perfectly expresses the Fine Jewelry collection through her sophistication and style. Knightley has been a good friend of the fashion house and is linked to the brand as being the face of the COCO MADEMOISELLE perfume and the ROUGE COCO collection.
MFW: PRADA SPRING 2017
“This idea of traveling, sharing, joining different cultures interests me”, Miuccia Prada reveals when the Prada Men’s Spring 2017 show has finished. This vision is clearly noticeable in the collection, as every model wears tribal hiking sandals and carries a heavy backpack down the runway. Active-wear is big this show season and Prada is not staying behind, as their collection includes bulging parkas and rain pants. It felt different for the brand, but it worked out brilliantly. Miuccia Prada added “I’m kind of finished with vintage”, therefore explaining the new direction the collection has gone into.
MFW: MONCLER SPRING 2017
Thom Browne has created a collection inspired by American Boy Scouts and camping for the MONCLER GAMME BLEU SPRING/SUMMER 2017. The presentation is divided in three groups, one in all-khaki, a group mixed with checkered forest green, brown and whites and a formal group primarily wearing brown and navy. The tailored pieces are made in technical fabrics the French brand is known for, with details created via mediums such as laser cut and thermo bonding, which gives the active sportswear/ outerwear collection a functional aesthetic.
MFW: GIORGIO ARMANI SPRING 2017
Giorgio Armani’s Spring/ Summer 2017 embraces change and crosses borders, but remains true to the brands philosophy as it evolves into a mysterious yet urban collection. Garments are designed with a mix of geometric patterns and graphic elements, which somehow give of a Caribbean finish. The fit is loose, trousers oversized but it has a clean-cut undertone, perhaps through the colour choices. Its colour palette is romantic, orange tinted reds styled with an array of warm greys and light blues.
MFW: DIESEL BLACK GOLD SPRING 2017
Creative Director Andreas Melbostad retreats to the root of denim for Spring 2017. Melbostad was influenced by late American photographer Irving Penn's images collected in his “Small Trades” book, which showed a diverse range of working class people. As Diesel Black Gold established aesthetic is utilitarian and functional, you can understand the connection. Denim pants are styled with a variety of shirts, including a new kimono style. Proposing a sophisticated sporty touch, nylon is used in the collection in jackets and trousers. The look is complete with utility sandals and canvas sneakers.
Hugo 'Your Suit, Your Way'
HUGO’s ‘Your Suit, Your Way’ campaign breaks the boundaries of convention and reveals the dynamic attitude of the Superblack suit. Set on the edge of Malta’s dramatic coastline and the impressive sea arch, it provides the ultimate setting for cliff diver David Colturi to push himself, both physically and mentally, to demonstrate the Superblack suit’s power. The video finds Colturi standing determinedly in the suit on the cliff face, before breaking into a run, then leaping into the unknown, turning in the air and plunging into the sea.
The campaign delivers an unexpected perspective and shows how the HUGO Superblack suit, with its innovative tailoring and modern slim-fit style, inspires men to wear a suit in new, individual ways that defy convention. The message is clear: the Superblack suit, made using double-dyed yarn for a deep black color and iconic HUGO style, can be worn anytime, anywhere.
Theory l Pre-Fall 2016
When Theory presents the new Pre-Fall 2016 women and men collection this means that this winter has it all. Apart from the always smart and safe black, it also introduces more colours such as red, yellow, grey, burgundy and khaki. The collection is smart chic with coats, shirts, pullovers, light trousers and pleaded skirts and tops. Theory presents white as one of the winter colour in skirts, trousers, coats and shirts that gives the collection an extra elegance. The menswear collection is more focused on black, brown and grey in trench coats, coats, trousers and blouses. Jeans are always on fashion matched with smart jumpers. Theory introduces leather as the winter’s trend with the legendary biker’s jacket.
Dior Homme Campaign Autumn/Winter 2016/17
Dior Homme has launched its Autumn/Winter 16/17 campaign, shot by Willy Vanderperre and styled by Olivier Rizzo. The campaign expresses diverse backgrounds in creative fields such as music, photography, film and fashion and has a sense of duality of youth and experienced. Headlining the cast of muses is American rapper and fashion icon A$AP Rocky, highly praised for both his music directory and personal style, personifying the urban and masculinity of the brand in the images.
Photographer and filmmaker Larry Clark very elegantly features in the campaign, in a distinct and dark series of portraits.
On the forefront of a new era in art-house cinema is 20-year old French actor Rod Paradot, pictured dressed in smart coats and formal eveningwear.
Last new face is model Dylan Roques. who is no stranger to the brand as he has opened the runway just last season, who expresses the rebellious energy of Dior Homme.
Second time BFA Menswear Designer winner J.W.Anderson latest collection has drawn inspiration from Antoine de Saint-Exupéry’s novel Le Petit Prince, a philosophical story pointing out the abnormalities of adult life. Though J.W.Anderson mentions, this collection is ‘’not about being nostalgic, it’s about being childlike.’’ Swimming goggles, headpieces resembling crowns, extremely long sleeves and sweaters tied around the waist indicate to this childlike theme, but its a refreshing way of accenting the collection. ‘Petite’ trench coats, culottes and shoulder bags granted the compilation the androgynous view J.W.Anderson swears by, but military bombers and plaid shirts were also included, giving the collection a masculine touch.
Giorgio Armani Campaign Autumn/Winter 2016/17
Giorgio Armani reveals its Autumn/Winter 2016/17 campaign, shot by fashion photography duo Mert and Marcus (Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott). Both photographers have said they are heavily influenced by photographer Guy Bourdin, which shows in their latest work. Modelling for this shoot were models Maartje Verhoef, Heather Kemesky, Julian Schneyder, André Bona, Mathilde Brandi, and Andrey Zakharov, who were photographed in black and white, which the brand describes as giving it an atmosphere that is subtly introspective and suggests a sense of realism.
New Collection The Vampire's Wife
Strongly influenced by her husband, Nick Cave’s lyrics and with a desire to create the feminine and delicate clothing she was missing, Susie Cave created her own fashion brand. Having had more than 20 years experience in the fashion industry prior to starting up the business, she knows what looks and feels good on women and what doesn’t work. The former model worked closely together with her friend Alex Ademson and founded the new brand The Vampire’s Wife when she couldn’t find anything she’d like to wear. As she told Vogue the garments are, amongst other things, inspired by Russian Ballet and raw nature. The new collection has just been launched and is available on matchesfashion.com
Versace and Bruce Weber, A Golden Match
Versace has collaborated with photographer Bruce Weber on their Fall/Winter 2016 campaign. Weber is not a stranger to the brand, as he is behind most historic images for the brand ever since they started working together in 1990. This time around the campaign features supermodels Gigi Hadid, Karlie Kloss and Dilone in different scenarios. One of them being an ultra dazzling and glossy life-style, the other a day-to-day stroll with the kids, a modern looking family. The images show the versatility of the items and thus making it relatable. Shot in Chicago, Weber has decided to include men and womenswear together. Donatella Versace speaks highly of the collaboration with Weber, as they haven't worked together since 1999, with the following; ”Bruce Weber is the true master of our time. His photography is deeply personal and rich, a reflection of the world as he sees it. It has been my pleasure to enter once again into that world for this Versace campaign. With this new campaign, Bruce gave me my history back.”
Teva-Han Kjobenhavn Sandal
The Teva-Han Kjobenhavn sandal has arrived, combining the almost contrasting philosophies of the two brands - the practical, everyday wear of Teva matching the runway aesthetics of the latter. The results are striking. Teva has already collaborated with the brand at Copenhagen Fashion Week for two seasons, and this creative partnership is flourishing. Mixing Teva’s outdoor look with a runway brand creates a unisex, distinctly Danish design. Han Kjobenhavn, wanting to maintain their trademark minimalism, has made the footwear monochrome, and are said to be inspired by the local football clubs of their youth - giving the shoes a nostalgic appeal. Available now in HK’s New York, Paris, Copenhagen and online stores, the Teva-Han Kjobenhavn sandal is a distinctive, breathable piece for summer.
Banky’s new exhibition in Rome
If you’re in Rome this summer you should definitely visit the Palazzo Cipolla Museum which launches one of the largest exhibitions of his work to date.
The non-profit exhibition War, Capitalism and Liberty kicked off on 24th May and it is running through to the 4thSeptember.
The exhibit, which sees the famous Kate Moss print take pride of place, spans the anonymous artist's entire career.
This exhibition includes around 120 original paintings, prints, unique sculptures, creations and rare pieces from private collections, many of which have never been seen publically before.
The exhibition examines war, consumerism and politics aiming to make you really think like Banksy . It promises to be a groundbreaking display of the different formats, techniques and topics tackled by him, demonstrating the sheer scale and scope of his work over the last 30 years.
The exhibition comes just a year after Banksy, opened the popular Dismaland in Weston-Super-Mare, the alternative seafront theme park that invited guests to experience attractions billed as "an escape from mindless escapism".
Dior “Rose des Vents” jewellery collection.
With his wind rose or better the ‘‘Rose de vent‘‘ jewellery collection Dior takes us a voyage to the four winds. Victoire de Castellane designs the ‘’Rose de vent’’ for Dior Joaillerie highlighting that passion for colour that unites the designer with the Dior House. Turquoise blue and lapis lazuli, pink opal and pearlized white are the colours that Dior has embellished the bracelets, the sautoires and the long and short necklaces expanding to include pendants and rings. The jewellery is presented in an onyx version and another covered in diamonds. The collection broadens the horizons of the medallion jewel. The whole collection brings in mind moments of summer and sea and this is not strange since the story began at Granville, in the villa where Christian Dior had spent his childhood, overlooking the sea, perched on a cliff-top. The collection combines the star and the rose which is Dior’s favourite flower.
AGL at König Gallery
Attilio Giusti Leombruni teamed with König Galerie and it seems that the Berlin got an Italian boost to its art and fashion events. The König Galerie and AGL hosted an exclusive Gallery Weekend opening dinner for their famous guests on Thursday night. Two hundred international well-known guests were gathered to the dinner and among them there were the publisher Angelika Taschen, Peter Bläuer, the director of "The Liste", the art collector and Media entrepreneur Christian Boros and the stage and costume designer Aino Labarenz. Jan Ole Joensson, the singer from B.O.X.E.R and the Peaches singers attended the dinner, too. Artists couldn’t be excluded from that fashion-art event and among the guests were the artists Michael Sailstorfer, Christian Jankowski, Jeremy Shaw, Claudia Comte and Kira Lillie.
AGL, which is run by the three sisters, Vera, Sara and Mariana is the only shoe company in Italy managed by women. AGL went online in Europe two years ago and is planning to launch online in the U.S. in 2017.
König Gallery showcases young and rising talents, as well as numerous well-established artists from a younger generation. The gallery focuses on cross-media, concept-oriented and spatial approach work.
Kaviar Gauche Launches Bridal Concept Store
Duesseldorf's Koenigsallee flaunts a whole lot of exquisite designer stores, but until March 17th, an exclusive bridal concept store was yet to be present. Berlin-based designer duo Kaviar Gauche, aka Alexandra Fischer-Roehler and Johanna Kühl, had their aim set on changing that. In a love-focused, bloomy ceremony, they launched their first Duesseldorf bridal concept store on the famous shopping mile in attendance of their elaborated clientele. Between champagne-colored walls and smoked-glass mirrors, guests such as modern art collector Julia Stoschek and director Oskar Roehler admired not only the bridal couture itself, but accessories and wedding essentials galore. The concept store is heaven-on-earth for a wedding planer, or at least the dream inspiration for a bride-to-be. Headpieces, shoes, bridesmaid dresses and registry outfits, even jewelry and candles – Kaviar Gauche makes sure there's nothing missing once you step up to the altar. All those pretty things are surrounded by tasteful design, centering around the steel tree-wardrobe designed by architect Amir Abadi. As a message on the wall puts it, on the Koenigsallee in Duesseldorf, you will not only find a wedding dress, but “everlasting love”. We do!
Versus Versace Fall 16
With its Fall/Winter 2016 collection, Versus Versace has unleashed a collection that is marked by toughness and an almost invincible spirit. Revisited camouflage prints, zip-up bombers, coats and cargo pants define the season for both men and women and embody the strong attitude that lies beneath this collection. For women, Versus plays with tomboy toughness by including loose fit jeans and flat ankle boots in the range. As camouflage is reimagined with the Versus lion head, the camo shirt meanwhile becomes the new city essential for the man. Both lines include pieces with a fierce attitude, such as a fur-collared blouson in menswear or a diamond slashed lingerie top for women. The urban conquest has been a sub-theme for a number of collections these past season and this collection sees Versus Versace join the trend wagon. Whether you need to fight the city jungle or just want to top off your fearlessness – Versus Versace is the gear to chose.
Breathe in some real alternative Berlin spirit. Get into 900m2 raw and industrial concept store LNFA which offers extraordinary shopping experience with a spice of exceptional style and mess. It presents carefully selected 90 young fashion designers from Germany, France, Italy, Turkey, Russia, Japan and Mexico. Combination of fashion, art, design, advertising, music and film industries brings the individual style to the aesthetics.
Among the bestsellers, daily inspiration comes from Studio Gampe, Siyah, Marcell Von Berlin, Thomas Hanisch, Preach, Esther Perbandt and Marcel Ostertag. Their creativity is implemented by Berlin streetstyle fashion and ever changing trends.
Get lost in a chaos and find yourself in the harmonious place which is the whole ever changing Berlin city collected into one location. Live through networking, fashion and arts.
LOEWE Fall/Winter 2016
Just like in their latest advertising campaign, earthy colors and monochrome looks dominated the LOEWE runway at their Fall/Winter 2016 presentation. The inexplicable, elusive mind that is Creative Director Jonathan Anderson always seems so put together a distinctive and strict aesthetic in which every garment is utterly different from the other, but in which everything blends perfectly like grains in the sand. At Paris Fashion Week, the Spanish label thus unveiled a collection of various flowing silhouettes, with dresses and skirts being the most prominent pieces. Paired with either asymmetric or body-tight tops and contrastingly oversized coats, they brought to life a modern look that speaks to women from Barcelona to Beijing equally. The cool, sophisticated combinations are interrupted by this season's go-to accessory: purses disguised as cat and mask-faces dangle around the models' neck, giving a funny twist on the tourist-style money bag usually very wisely banned from fashion. LOEWE though quite literally let the cat out of the bag, and the result will have the fans purr in pure bliss.
Fred Perry x Raf Simons SS16
For all those that wondered what Raf Simons might turn to after his Dior departure, Fred Perry has just delivered an exquisite answer. After rekindling their cooperation in 2013, the brand and Belgian designer have since featured more capsule collections, the latest one dressing the season of Spring/Summer 2016. Shot in a blurry aesthetic, the new campaign pictures show a sporty, contemporary collection that focuses on the look of stripes and v-lines. Perry's and Simons' collaborative work is a modernist approach to Striped Pique Shirts, Zip Front Chevron Pique Shirts, Insert T-shirts and Sweaters. Combining classic colors with flashing inserts, the collection is a mix and match of a modern attitude and yet another spin on the past. The wearer is seen a man in motion and stand out styles like wider cut Chevron Insert T-shirt adjust to that effortlessly. Go for the red-inserted pieces on a bright day or take the more classic route with beige-blue combinations. Not only the wearer seems to be on the move, but so is the designer. Raf Simons leaves the world in excitement for his next projects - and we've got the feeling that this one was just the start.
RIMOWA Bossa Nova
Most people would probably like to pack Alessandra Ambrosio into a suitcase and take her home with them. For now, those of you need to be satisfied with her advertising one. Ambrosio was revealed as the new face for German suitcase manufacturer RIMOWA’s. In the latest campaign, the Brazilian model poses with the brand’s new piece “Bossa Nova”. The name and choice of testimonial are not just coincidentally an allusion to Brazil: the travel accessory is actually manufactured there. For those seeking a little bit of Rio in their luggage, the Bossa Nova comes in a dark green with leather applications in green or beige, making it a style statement at the baggage claim. If only we all could step off a plane looking like Mrs. Ambrosio.
Diesel Black Gold Women F/W 16
Back in January, Diesel Black Gold designer Andreas Melbostad started down the road to complete and utter urbanity. His menswear designs were an allusion to bike couriers, to the fast pace of the city and its mystery. Now, the womenswear line presents the perfect companion. The attitude is industrial, dark, nocturnal even. Melbostad creates a contrast between the raw and the decorative by juxtaposing various materials such as leather, denim, nylon and felt. Just like the menswear designs, this collection incorporates a dynamic feel to help the wearer blend perfectly into the urban space. Surely helpful in this was Melbostad’s utilitarian inspiration, among others visible in tall, lace-up biker and combat boots. The Black Gold collection is sharp, cool, but not minimalistic. Biker leather jackets and felt peacoats come with an unexpected inlay of quilted nylon blankets – a design that strikes in its surprising stylishness. The Diesel woman will be well equipped on her trip through the urban mystery, and we’re about to follow her. If we can keep up.
No. 21 Fall/Winter 2016
No. 21 stays down to earth. The brand's latest designs are not only actually ready to wear, but carry earthy and natural colors in the true sense of the word. At Milan Fashion Week, the show was opened with models sporting slippy dresses and slouchy sweaters in rusty tones or with delicate flower prints. Combined with ochre tones and subtle greys, the first half of the collection is a casual nod to everyday life –without getting boring, of course. However, for those seeking a little more wild life, the collection has a pattern in store that is quite the rare occurrence this season: leopard print. The wildlife reference was used in the fabrication of coats and jackets, whereas other pieces of this section come in full beach-print, with palm trees blowing in front of an overcolored sunset. Part 3 of the collection in a way is more classic, with just a little twist. Pattern-wise, multicolored checks are no rebellion, but it is their assembly and usage in the making of patched coats and a layered baby doll dress that makes them special. As with every good collection, there's one piece dancing out of line: a brown-and-white fur coat with an oversized silhouette makes for this season's surprise moment. As said before, down to earth does not mean boring. For reference, see No. 21.
Gucci F/W 2016
When in Milan, the curtain fell for Gucci’s Fall/Winter presentation, the crowd most likely let out a small gasp. The collective thought couldn’t have been but one: he’s done it again. Alessandro Michele once more let loose his eclectic fantasy and spread out a message of reinvented history, reassembled patterns and colorful combinations. Now, with any other designer, that might have circled in the realms of boredom, but not with signore Michele. One twist on these new designs is the collaboration with a ghost. Not a literal one, of course. Gucci cooperated with the GucciGhost, also known as artist Trevor Andrew. Among the entity, he is known for his work with the double-G Gucci logo, which he has incorporated in vintage clothing, decoration pieces, graffiti and wall art. In Fall 2016, his designs grace furry Gucci coats and handbags. Now, how does one summarize the rest of this collection? It stays Michele’s secret how he does it, but each time, the designer manages to keep his eclectic mix in line, forming a more than exciting wardrobe. This collection has everything: from floral print to fluffy ruffles, preppy looks to Paris style, Asian patterns to A-list ball gowns. Alessandro Michele has done it again, and there’s nothing left to do but applaud.
Photos: Yannis Vlamos
Paul Smith Women F/W 16
The Fall/Winter 2016 season sees Paul Smith once again turn towards the past. The British designer is the master of archive work and reinvention, and so it comes as no surprise that he applied it once again to his latest designs. The garments resemble a walk through an archive closet, with Paul Smith creatively picking his inspirations here and there. This time, they start in a very private closet: the one of his wife Pauline. Smith creates the image of a handsome woman with a nod to the sophisticated femininity he originally created from his men collections. Smith goes back to the 1970s and 80s, back when he was just starting out. From the latter decade, he takes the photo-print of an eaten apple and reworks it into prints, embroidery and appliqués in various scales. He also makes a halt at his own closet and takes on bicycle breeches. Those are met with raglan-sleeved coats and embroidered pleat dresses. Regarding accessories, the designer once again goes “way back”: all bags are equipped with new locks, taken from an old Paul Smith briefcase. Rework, revamp, refurbish – however Paul Smith does it, the journey to the past is always an exciting one.
Replay Replica 1972 Scatto Collection
With their new shoe collection “Replica 1972 Scatto”, Replay is quite literally kicking it back. The label rediscovered the 1972 soccer shoe “Scatto” and chose to bring it back to 2016. Thus, Replay’s design team started to fuse the spirit of a handmade 70s piece of footwear with contemporary sneaker designs. The result is a collection consisting of four themes, two of them for men only, with various approaches to a hand-made classic. Replay restyled the “Scatto” with an eclectic range of materials. Ranging from suede leather in the eponymous line to lycra geo patterns featured on the heel in “Lycra 3D”, they make the collection go from sporty to stylish. We're glad Replay took on that workshop.
Marc Jacobs Fall/Winter 2016
When in New York, the Marc Jacobs models took to the runway, all the unscrupulous fashion crowd was left with was surprise. Few hours later, fashion critics found themselves in frenetic ecstasy about the new Jacbos designs, and there are plenty reasons why. It is hard to put this collection into words, as it was eclectic and layered – in both literal and fashion sense. Jacobs created the big show, defined by the big silhouette. Strutting on knee-high, laced boots, the models sported coats, blazers and capes in voluptuous egg shapes to be paired with impressively embellished dresses and loose sweaters. The materials one can’t even begin to enlist, for there are so many to choose from. Leather, denim, fur, feathers – Marc Jacobs has it all. The selection of models, who all presented a 1920s hair style, in parts was another surprise. One look was showcased by no other than Lady Gaga, who blended into the runway line-up quite effortlessly. For the grand finale, Jacobs later presented another enormous checkered cape, only to then bow to the applause as if nothing had happened. If only all surprises could be this magnificent.
CHANEL Opens on Königsallee in Düsseldorf
Get out your address books (pardon, smartphones) and switch to contacts: CHANEL has a new address! The Parisian brand changed its Düsseldorf location on the notorious shopping mile Königsallee to number 40. After having been located on the backside of an inner courtyard for years, CHANEL is now full front accessible to shoppers from allover the world. The new store opened its doors on February 10th and hosts 350 square meters of divine luxury goods. Customers enter the boutique via a gallery, where they are met by Andrei Molodkin's oil sculpture CHIC. Further on, an accessory room displays all smaller goods from handbags to sunglasses, scarves and jewelry. The watch collections of Mademoiselle Privé, J12 and Première find dedication in an additional section. Naturally, the clothes themselves deserve their own honoring: two intimate and comfortable Prêt-à-porter salons invite the shopper to prop down on a tweed sofa, lounge in a Wendell Castle chair or have a glance into the book on the Ingrid Donat table. New York architect Peter Marino was entrusted with the design of this particular boutique and incorporated the two CHANEL core characteristics: timeless modernity and Parisian refinement. Inspiration to the new rooms was Mademoiselle Chanel's famous apartment at Rue Cambon 31, where intimacy and elegance were united in every room. Safe to say that after such a precise reinvention process, Königsallee No. 40 is its equal in every way.
Peaches’ Free Drink Ticket
Peaches is heartbroken and it’s for everyone to see. The uninhibited singer has released the music video to her latest single “Free Drink Ticket”. The clip sees the songstress with a white-painted face and dressed in a leather-net-dress that, as often, exposes every inch of her body. While surrounded by similarly spare-dressed dancers, Peaches performs a kind of ceremony with a pig-headed snake that one can easily interpret as the person addressed in the song itself. “Free Drink Ticket” is a break-up anthem and probably the most honest and forward one to date. In her usual spoken-lyrics-style, the Canadian singer voices phrases like “you were shitting on me, how could I not smell it?” or “spineless coward, I can’t fucking stand liars”, adorned by the occasional thrown-in “fuck you”. The track was taken from Peaches’ 2015 LP “Rub” and is already the sixth release from the album. “Your personality turned to white powder, your brain’s clammed up chowder”, she says, “another free drink ticket, will that make it okay? Drink it up, bitch.” Cheers to you, Peaches.
Saatchi Gallery/Deutsche Bank Art Prize for Schools
Untitled by Praise Jeong, 17 years, Victorian College of the Arts Secondary School, Australia
To be fair, the closest that art and finance might have come to this day would be random paintings hanging in a bank accountant’s office. London’s Saatchi Gallery and global finance giant Deutsche Bank are about to change that. Their collaborative “Art Prize for Schools” enables and rewards international students to pursue their artistic endeavors. With a prize money ranging from 10.000 pound for the overall winning school and 2.000 for the single pupil, surely not only the creative challenge will get students going. Through the reward, Saatchi and Deutsche Bank urge schools to purchase appropriate computer, print and design material to secure that pupils can create their artwork in the best way possible. For the Deutsche Bank, this plan is part of a bigger picture: reducing youth unemployment by diminishing the problems at their very base. With Saatchi Gallery, one of London’s most renowned and high profile galleries on the pad, they certainly stand a good chance to spread out a high-end artistic message. Maybe, in a few years time, the pictures hanging in the bank accountant’s office won’t be so random anymore. Today, its creator might just be headed for the next lesson.
A free exhibition at the Saatchi Gallery will feature artworks from 20 shortlisted students from March 3-9, 2016.
A Working Man by Alyssa Diaz, 16 years, Edinburgh High School
Glitch by Edward Lamer, 18 years, Norwich School
Tommy Hilfiger Men’s F/W 16 “Hilfiger Edition”
If you’re a very classic brand, the ability to reinvent yourself over and over is key. Luckily, reinvention is the sub line in pretty much everything that Tommy Hilfiger does. It thus comes as no surprise that for his latest F/W 16 Menswear collection, titled “Hilfiger Edition”, the designer again tackled both heritage and haute style. At New York Men’s Fashion Week, Hilfiger presented a collective of indispensable menswear classics that once more embody the brand DNA. Covetable coats and thickly cabled fishermen sweaters make for warming outerwear, whereas slouchy trousers and selvedge denim create a relaxed look that is supported by the easy silhouette. Another part of Hilfiger’s reinvention is also taking the promotion of this collection to the next level. Managed by instagram curator Jordan Watson, Hilfiger collaborated with fine artist Austyn Weiner. Using her explosive color palette, she reimagined three original works that feature the Hilfiger Edition collection. Tommy Hilfiger always makes an effort to reinvent – and the victory is his.
KENZO's Captivating Snowbird
A lady, hopping from door to door, offering cake, eating with the old and lonely. You may think of scouts or desperate housewives, but you couldn't be more wrong. The lady actually knocking on every door in reach is the protagonist of KENZO's new SS16 movie “Snowbird”. Written and shot by director Sean Baker, the movie follows a (then) young woman on her way through a desert only populated by free-minded individuals living in trailers. As she eats a piece of the cake she baked with each of them, the young woman's story seems to unfold, only to switch to an unexpected ending. (Sounds teasing? Watch above.) While watching the 12-minute video, one almost is oblivious to the fact that this is a fashion campaign and probably surprised that it was shot entirely on iPhone. Additionally, the protagonist is nt played by a model, but Australian actress Abbey Lee. In Slab City, the rural oasis the movie was filmed in, she is joined by real inhabitants and actors who have been known for their myriad indelible endeavors in the film industry. The clothes may even be in the second row in this artistic film piece, but we sure still ask us how to get that girl knock on our door.
Keta Gutmane S/S 16
Hello from the outside: for Keta Gutmane, their latest SS16 collection is all about observation. Observation for the label creates a dialogue and builds a bridge between those who belong and those who were once lost. At Keta Gutmane, the outsider is never forgotten. For the new garments, the designers took loose inspiration from one of the greatest observers of all time: filmmaker Wim Wenders. Adapted to fashion, this inspiration translates into a combination of traditional craftsmanship with contemporary tailoring. To break it down even more: long oversized coats float along with sharply tailored poplin shirting. Fitted slim pants are teamed up with confident woolen blazers, whereas graphic trenchs are paired with coated cupro skirting. To not confuse the aesthetic, the collection is maintained by deep black and white, only occasionally interrupted by an expressive dash of checkered tartan. In conclusion, the collection forms are casually tailored silhouette that leaves the perfect room for observation. May it be from the inside, or the outside is of no importance. As Keta Gutmane said, we're always in a dialogue.
Balmain Pre-Fall 2016
If in 2016, a queen would have to hire a dressmaker, she would probably call up Olivier Rousteing. And after the reveal of his latest Pre-Fall collection, there is no doubt that the French designer would definitely be up for it. After all, his inspiration came from a time when there actually were queens with tailors belonging to the establishment. With the new designs, Olivier Rousteing takes us to the court of Versailles in the 18th century and into the boudouir of the legendary Madame Pompadour. Her sensual and elegant styles were a major influence to Rousteing, for in this collection, her signature silhouette finds itself in various riffs on the corset. Versailles opulence finds reflection in the luxurious fabrics like a variety of cashmeres, Jacquards, silks and paisleys. Madame Pompadour was known as a lover of details, so the tailor delivers beaded fringes, hanging tassels, thick ruffles and bold gold accents. Still, it's not just a history lesson Rousteing teaches us. Balmain is made for the modern woman, the confident fighter who is inspired by the bravery of the likes of Madame Pompadour. If we'll meet her, we'll curtsy. It seems the only right thing to do.
CHANEL Couture Spring/Summer 2016
One could say that haute couture in its traditional realm is nothing to be worn while on a walk. As often, Karl Lagerfeld doesn’t think so. For CHANEL, he created a collection that illustrates a walk in the park, a stroll in style while the spring sun shines upon your head. It is with an atmosphere of calmness and serenity that the models take their steps down the catwalk, outside the coulisse of a large wooden house. They present elegant garments defined by natural colors. Several beige tones, according to Lagerfeld, refer to Gabrielle Chanel being the “Queen of beige” while natural dark colors like black and dark blue are sprinkled throughout the collection. Lagerfeld found the starting point for these designs in the silhouette, playing with inverted volumes by creating short tweed jackets with oval sleeves, paired with sleek pencil skirts. Of course, CHANEL’s stroll trough the park shouldn’t be too wild, as materials such as chiffon or rhinestone-embroidered fabrics could be too easily damaged. But then again, keeping the contenance is CHANEL’s specialty, isn’t it?
Baldessarini F/W 16/17
Baldessarini caters to the confident man about town, providing him with classic and elegant wardrobe staples rather than trendy throwaways. Key to success are craftsmanship and high-end materials, combined with a sustainable production centered in Europe. By no means is Baldessarini’s FW 16/17 collection old-fashioned though: Yes, designs are predictably dapper. Why would you change a running system? Here and there, noticeably younger items turned the collection on it’s ear: rough leather pants, sheepskin jackets, sweats with smart jackets and ties all carried a youthful vibe onto that runway. Aside from sweaters, turtlenecks were big, worn under crisp button-downs or suits. For one-stop shoppers, the label offers a complete range including scarfs, gauntlets and hats. Stripes and checks livened up an otherwise muted color palette of black, grey, blue, green, oxblood and beige, adding some well-received youthfulness to Baldessarini’s Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin debut.
Vladimir Karaleev Fall/Winter 16/17
For his first show during MBFWB since July 2014, Vladimir Karaleev hit a high note with his intricate construction and easy breezy styling. His expertly crafted, sculptural designs were set in a presentation rather than a runway show – a no-brainer considering Karaleev’s pieces are more of an art installation than a nod to fast fashion. His FW 16/17 designs combine touches of cubism, mod-style and origami, resulting in exciting plays on volume, fabrics, and personal style. Each piece is in itself glorious and intriguing, yet full of possibilities in terms of combination. Grey, black, midnight blue and petrol, deep magenta, mauve and mustard could easily be overwhelming, yet Vladimir Karaleev has nuance and the masterful eye of an artist. Here’s to hoping he won’t hold out on us for another season or two.
McQ's Goes Clubbing With Nan Goldin
Strobe lights blur the sight; distant beats make the heart hammer. People are rushing through the crowd; the occasional flash of a camera interrupts the lights. The scene at McQ's new SS16 campaign sees legendary photographer Nan Goldin on the hunt. She follows models through the location at McQ's own McQ x WARP night, creating pictures that speak her unique language while also submitting a very realistic and “close” atmosphere. Shot in other parts on location in Spitalfields, London, the campaign does not only emphasize Goldin's style of work but also empowers the brand image of McQ as a rebellious, youthful, but highly contemporary brand. All of that -come to think of it - in “just” a few pictures. We feel like we’re coming along. With Nan Goldin tracking our every move. We’re in!
MP Massimo Piombo Fall/Winter 16/17
Blue is the great clarifier, blue makes all the other colors beautiful. MP Massimo Piombo has fallen in love. Blue is the “grande amore” in their latest Fall/Winter 16 collection. While the classic color is in favor, the label also experiments with, well, pretty much everything. For Piombo, there are no limits in their dynamic designs. The ideas are realized with fabrics from Nothern Europe (Scandinavia) and Old Europe (Austria, France, Belgium). The objective is to merge together allure and functionality, to create a concept of sensation and emotions free from restriction and prejudice. The result comes in form of a literal world of coats, jackets and knits that follow the brand’s values of refinement, vitality, variety, dignity and – eroticism. There are no limits to experiments, and for Massimo Piombo, we wouldn’t ever want there to be.
Kiton Menswear Fall 16/17
They say you can’t do everything at once, but Kiton sure can. With their latest F/W menswear collection, the label crossed off every possible category one could feature in a collection: sartorial, thermal, denim, sportswear and accessories. Each subline has it’s own revolutions – and together, they form a wholesome collection. The tailoring’s masterpiece is a three-piece suit with vest highlight. A jacket gets a new outline with exclusive blends of cashmere borrowed from knitwear. Special attention is drawn to pants, which the label offers in a rich selection of cotton corduroy. Thermal wears brings on the CUTLO project and presents three jackets, overcoats and sports jacket that ensure a perfect balance between detail and performance. Kiton dubs it “the first sartorial thermal outerwear”. Denim comes in organic cotton with up to eight processes of washing. Sportswear and accessories are equally as diverse, with a sportswear capsule collection devoted to skiing and accessories ranging from backpacks and duffels to crocodile leather shoes. They say you can’t satisfy everyone, but Kiton sure can.
Versace Opens Doors in Berlin
January 19th, 2016 saw a crowd of 400 sophisticated guests make their way to one Berlin address: the Kurfürstendamm, number 194. Here, Italian luxury brand Versace opened the doors of their new 350 square metre boutique with a special cocktail celebration. Among the crowd were several famous faces from the German culture scene, ranging from Iris Berben’s son Oliver to fashion darlings such as model Franziska Knuppe. The store itself beholds the label’s latest Ready-to-wear collections as well as accessories. Donatella Versace herself developed the store concept in collaboration with English architect Jamie Fobert. Customers will have the privilege to walk on mosaic floors, inspired by Byzantine churches of the Ninth Century, and surrounded by Perspex walls. As Donatella Versace puts it: “In fulfilling this project Jamie Fobert has created a space in which the new Versace spirit can take flight. For me the boutique suggests an uninterrupted dialogue between our past and our future, between me and Jamie Fobert and obviously between Versace and our clients”. We’re off to Berlin!
Raf Simons Reveals: Spring/Summer 16 Ad
When Raf Simons closed a door, another one finally swung wide open. It's an odd saying – but it's true. After having left Dior in what was an unintentional kick-off to several changes in the fashion industry, Simons turned his back on French fashion houses and focused on his own line. And it's not just one door that has opened for him, in fact, it seems like Simons is standing in a metaphorical corridor, with multiple doors open to his side. Almost parallel to the presentation of his F/W 16 looks at Paris Men's Fashion Week, the designer revealed his advertising campaign for the Spring/Summer season. The visuals, shot by Willy Vanderperre and styled by Olivier Rizzo, consist of 8 pictures, most of them black and white, and illustrate a daunting scene in an abandoned park setting. One of the models is obscured by a full facial mask but not afraid to express their affection towards the counterpart. The looks feature repeated prints, expanded silhouettes and sleeveless tops. The time to be wearing them might actually be quite a bit away - but who knows which door Raf Simons will have opened by then.
Y/Project’s Eclectic Darkness
Industrial techno and cold wave sounds bounce through the Le Gibus in Paris. Backstage, models get in line, rearrange their look and get ready for entering the void. It’s time for Y/Project’s F/W collection. The French label presented their latest designs at Paris Men’s Fashion Week in a rather gloomy but fascinating setting. Through the darkness, models walked dressed in an eclectic mix of industrial, medieval and classic French styles. For his 5th collection with Y/Project, head designer Glenn Martens found inspiration in films like the The Lost Boys or My Own Private Idaho. His creative process was a transformation of these inspirations into the key pieces that were presented on the Paris runway: washed and frayed denim pullovers and trousers, multi-zip bombers and shearling patchwork jackets. Harris tweed trench coats meet bustier dresses, snake-skin print hoodies and pants converge with oiled cotton bondage jackets. Such an eclectic mix provides wardrobe choices for an even broader audience. Just don’t get lost in the darkness.
Bally's Private Party: FW 2016 Menswear
When was the last time you attended a really good party? Like, actually, a really good one? Mesmerizing guests, good music and just the right amount of elusive small talk. Been some time, hasn't it? Well, Bally is about to invite you to the best party in a long time. Titled “A Checkered Past- Scene 1”, the brand released the menswear Fall/Winter collection along with the story of an edgy-but-glamorous ballroom party. The crowd: artists, rock stars, aristocrats and geeks – eventually everyone you wished for. Photographers lounge next to artists and talk about California, while a rock'n' roll frontman reminisces about his last tour. All of these very inspirational people have found their place in Bally's new collection. If the allover print shirt with kiss-inviting lips paired with some green fur coat isn't yelling for a rock star, then what is? If it's not the velvet suits and slouchy fedora hats that walk into the artist's wardrobe, then what is? If it's not the shiny, double-breasted coat and glasses that make for a good geek, please let us know, then what is? 2016 is not that old, but Bally has already hosted the party of the year and somehow, just very quietly, has become every one of their guests. Cheers!
Diesel Black Gold F/W 2016
Diesel Black Gold has a special delivery for you! Inspired by urban bike messengers, the label presented its menswear Fall/Winter collection at Milan’s Men’s Fashion Week. Creative Director Andreas Melbostad and his team thought of couriers riding their bikes through urban capitals while designing the garments that create a rebellious attitude in an industrial setting. References to functionality are obvious, with cycling pants and “double trousers” (shorts stitched to narrow-cut styles) making it easy to move through the city, even if you’re not delivering a package. Set against that, capes, parkas and field jackets with voluminous silhouettes submit the “fashion” element in this collection. Regarding accessories, the bike messenger is present again: cross-body bags and leather pouches for the arm keep the hands free – for whatever the urban setting has to hold for you. Leather combat boots top off the primarily dark collection in style. Well, seems like tomorrow, we’ll be taking the bike to work. If it’s that stylish?
Calvin Klein Collection Fall 2016 Runway Show
Like pulling a fan from the purse, last weekend, Milan pulled out its best, notable designers and brands to feature their latest menswear F/W 16 collections. One piece of that multifaceted fan was Calvin Klein Collection. The label’s Creative Director Italo Zuccheli presented his collection, featuring 42 looks shown by seven male and four female models, at the company’s headquarter. The gender-crossing casting is set to underline the universal power of men’s tailoring, which was also highly visible in the new designs. Keeping it both classy and classic, the garments include core pieces fundamental to the brand’s identity and menswear essentials. The exquisite tailoring stands next to sumptuous textures and silhouettes. This collection’s eye catchers are a selection of dazzling outerwear pieces, displaying a range of gold, silver and rose gold. Other than that, Calvin Klein’s color palette stays rather neutral, with a selection of black, white, camel and ivy rounding up a collection that spins between eye catching and toned-down pieces. Of course, in the end, Calvin Klein finds a way to balance itself out. That’s the key to fashion, isn’t it? Felicitazione!
FENDI Women SS16 Ad Campaign
Flowers for a beautiful woman. Who wouldn’t wish for that? FENDI is here to help. But instead of placing a bunch of nice flowers on our doormat, the brand has spread them all over their latest designs, revealed in their Spring/Summer 2016 campaign. Whether it’s fur, plexi, studded leather or graphic details – flowers are key at FENDI this year. The new campaign transfers a good breeze of spring, applied also to the clothing through pure eclecticism, layered luxury and the playful alternation of lengths, cuts and volumes. Natural hair and makeup make clear that this campaign is not an advertisement for little girls – but for the strong woman on the look for a fresh, cool wardrobe. For these visuals, Karl Lagerfeld took to the camera again and shot models Edie Campbell and Vanessa Moody surrounded by larger-than-life-sized flowers. “Edie and Vanessa are the girls of the moment, each with a different style representing the typical model of fashion of today and the woman I thought of for this collection is the one who can identify herself with these girls.", the designer commented. Other than flowers and models, one can also make out FENDI bags such as “Peekabo”, “3Jours” or “Micro Baguette” as the stars of the new campaign. And of course, they blossom in their most beautiful way, too. We sure wouldn’t mind one of those on our doormat.
PAULE KA Spring/Summer Advertising Campaign 16
For a grown-up, elegant and sophisticated woman, is there ever such a thing as a crush on clothes? We believe there is, and it comes in form of PAULE KA’s SS 16 advertising campaign. For the latest visuals, the brand collaborated with photographer Miles Aldridge to catch the spirit of both Pop Art and 50s French Riviera. Aldridge and Alithia Spuri-Zampetti, new Creative Director of PAULE KA, were inspired by the bold colors and cubist forms featured in the paintings of Richard Lindner, as well as the poetic portraits of Henri Matisse. Together, they have moulded this inspiration into a contemporary vision of Parisian elegance. French-Canadian model Anais Pouliot poses in the ‘couture-chic’ the brand is known for, embodying femininity and sophistication. Not only with the design has the brand gone on a trip down memory lane, but also with this campaign’s execution. Aldridge, being one of the few non-digital photographers left in his realm, releases a special edition of collectible Polaroids along with the campaign. Paris, Polaroids and Pop Art? We’re certain that grown-up, elegant women around the world will be crushing about this.
Behind The Scenes with VETEMENTS: SS16
Fashion shows and collections are a nice thing, no doubts detected. Sometimes though, it’s even more interesting to peek behind the curtain, to have a behind-the-scenes view at the new collections. Blooming label VETEMENTS has decided to enhance their latest SS16 collection with a book that gives us exactly that: an unfiltered look at the designs, a behind-the-scenes, a personal close-up. Shot exclusively by Pierre-Ange Carlotti, the book features modern photography that depicts models as they check their phones, hug or take their position for the presentation. The artworks additionally feature a handful of detail shots, with the VETEMENTS shoe design being the center of attention more than once. The book will be published by London publishing house “Idea”, according to whom it is the largest photography book ever dedicated to a single fashion collection. 304 pages thick, it will be available at the Comme des Garçons Trading Museum in Paris from January, 23 onward. After that, stocks will go to Idea’s Dover Street Market locations in London, New York and Ginza, Tokyo. Ever wanted to be behind the scenes at a fashion show without having to leave your seat? Flip open the book and be ready to dive in.
Photos: Pierre-Ange Carlotti for Idea
Craig Green Fall/Winter 2016 Collection
On the inside, we're different. Everyone hides dreams, belief or fears that they can't share with the world. It is a form of protection. With his latest Fall/Winter menswear collection, Craig Green takes care of exactly that. His latest designs characterize a gathering of introspective dreamers. The collection is also defined by the contrasting themes of restriction and release, for which Green has shown a continuous interest. As often, this also includes a contrast of both elegant and uncompromising. Green further investigates his love for uniform and the utilitarian, which can be seen in moss green looks and or striped combinations with both army and jail elements. With this collection, the designer also turns to long-lasting materials. A gentler quality is offered through careful aging and tarnishing techniques, providing the feel of long-serving garments. Memories are made, with clothes as both a shelter and armour. On the inside, we might be different, but with Craig Green on the outside, we are protected.
SIBLING FW Men 2016
SIBLING succumbs to obsession. With their latest AW16 collection, the designers dedicated their work to the Pop culture of the 1970s and 1980s. More precisely, two icons that have subverted in the worlds of music and art like few others: Grace Jones and Jean Michel Basquiat. Eccentric in every way, Jones’ album covers inspire the collection’s color palette. Acid yellow and blood red shoot through traditional colors like royal blue and grey, making the viewer squint in a good way. Now, it doesn’t just take the color palette to make an honest dedication - which is why for the silhouettes, the label refers to Basquiat. Luxurious Dormeuil fabric jackets, baggy pleated trousers and cropped wide suit jackets emphasize the loose shapes Basquiat is known for. Of course, his artwork is not to be left out and finds dedication in the SIBLING Fair Isle sweater. Going back to Jones, the Boxing Shorts make an allusion to her combat image. Completed with a more feminine, glittering Boxing Gown, the man is not only ready to rumble but also to revel. Now, if all of this is the result of an obsession, we might just get infected, too.
Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2016
This year, acting and fashion seem to go together better than ever. While Prada has appointed three young actors as their new testimonials, sister brand Miu Miu also once again enlists upcoming actresses as their new campaign faces. For the Spring/Summer 2016 campaign, international screen newcomers Millie Brady, Julia Garner, Matilda Lutz and India Salvor Menuez pose as the new Miu Miu woman. The visuals have a straightforward, uncoded message and were shot by no other than the brand's long-time creative partner Steven Meisel. The collection itself features a diversity of colors and materials. Greys and taupes intercut with maroon, gold and blue while materials like tweed, satin and leather are also used simultaneously. It is with no difficulty that one can sketch an image of this new Miu Miu woman: the risk-taker, the iconoclast, creatively intelligent with a rebellious sense of fashion. Looking to define that in one word? We'd say impeccable.
Neutral Party: Richert Beil FW15
Gender neutrality is the design world’s (current) darling. Labels little and large are trying their hand at unisex apparel, but that doesn’t mean they’re any good at it. So often it’s an indiscriminate approach they take, meeting the needs of many but flattering no one. But men and women are approaching a mid-point from two very different starting points; the solution cannot be one-size-fits-all. No, it takes a skilled eye and strident instinct to tailor a collection to both sexes with success – that’s where Richert Beil comes in. The brainchild of Berlin-based designers Jale Richert and Michele Beil, the label lauds an erudite aesthetic irrespective of gender, sympathetic to the structural, social, and emotional subtleties that have so far mantled man and woman. Ankle-grazing slacks prove a universal staple – smart with a sexy sensibility. Knits take neutral but directional dimensions, sweaters understated in their elaboration, chunky tabards tossed over stitched skirts. Longline macs layer their enduring appeal over culottes, kilts, and tunics, while coltish calves are slicked by black stockings and bolstered with sturdy leather lace-ups. Now there’s a style to suit all.
JIL SANDER Spring/Summer 16 Advertising Campaign
Naturalness and simplicity have forever been trademarks of German brand JIL SANDER’s collections. Now, the new visuals for the Spring/Summer 2016 campaign were revealed – and they make clear that the fashion label once again sticks to its status quo. Shot by Willy Vanderperre in Paris, the campaign shows models Lexi Boling and Jonas Gloeer presenting a collection defined by purity. Womenswear designs allude to one of this year’s key colours, an almost pastel blue that is used in the design of wrap dresses, shirt blouses and handbags. Other than that, the collection stays rather un-summery, featuring dark colors like a deep blue in a classic menswear coat or even black. If now the thought of “boredom” creeps into your mind, JIL SANDER is ready to talk back: especially the new women’s designs surprise with shoulder cut-outs and restyled coat collars. They might stick to their status quo, but JIL SANDER does it just right. Never change a winning team, people say. We agree.
Este Arte – International Contemporary Art Fair
Kicking off on January 5th, Punta del Este in Uruguay will once again host the “Este Arte” Fair, an international event dedicated to both historical avant-gardes and contemporary artists. Following the success of the fair’s last edition, it will once again feature a varied palette of events and exhibitions. Art lovers will find nearly any form of art displayed, ranging from paintings and sculptures to photographs and videos. In addition, Este Arte will present a cultural agenda that enables a dialogue among artists, collectors, critics and curators. Set to run every year, the event was installed to be a cultural landmark in the South American art system and to empower both institutional and private collections. The fair opens it’s doors with a VIP preview on January 5th and will be open to the public from 6pm to 11pm on the remaining days. Well, why not start the new year with a trip to Uruguay?
Marc O'Polo Spring/Summer 2016
While now actually might be the time to think of festive dinners, gifts and winter walks, the fashion world is already one step ahead. Within these days, the new Spring/Summer campaigns are being revealed, and casual brand Marco O'Polo is the next to present their latest coup. The team has decided to continue their path of featuring well known testimonials in their cozy-and-cool garments. Follow-up to the likes of Uma Thurman and Jeff Bridges are Hollywood darlings Josh Hartnett and Dree Hemingway. The two actors pose for the womenswear line “Natural High” and menswear line “Natural Explorer” in the new SS16 campaign. The expression “natural” once again is key to the concept of Marc O'Polo. For these particular visuals, the brand has teamed up with photography icon Bruce Weber. To have naturalness even inspire the photo sessions, the campaign was shot in Weber's house in Montauk, New York. Being both a hideaway place and weekend escape, the house immediately drew in the campaign testimonials. The result are photos that capture the collection in its most pure way: casual, not complicated, sophisticated. After almost 50 years of brand history, Marc O'Polo once again lives up to its own concept: stay true to yourself, no matter what you do.
PHOENIX Restaurant Opens in Dusseldorf
Three architectural “slices” of post-war modernism have defined the skyline of Rhine capital Dusseldorf, Germany, for decades. The Dreischeibenhaus on the riverside is a classic. Now, it is set to also define the city’s culinary image. Dec 15th saw the opening of new restaurant “PHOENIX” in the building’s former telephone switchboard. The restaurant provides seating for 70 guests and another 30 in a private dining area. High-class cuisine is served in form of modern classics combined with seasonal dishes that ask to be tasted with a bottle from an international wine selection. Guests can enjoy the culinary extravaganza surrounded by a tasteful interior: materials, forms and colors from the historic building have been taken on and mount in a fresh design defined by the key color petrol blue. The combination of walnut wood and steel elements creates the perfect atmosphere for a relaxed lunch or dinner. Need a little more entertainment? The show kitchen area gives guests an insight into the making of their delicacies. Guten Appetit!
PHOENIX is open Tue-Sun nights and at lunchtime from January on.
Ermenegildo Zegna Presents SS16 Advertising Campaign
What does masculine identity stand for these days? It’s 2015 – well, 2016 almost – and the masculine identity has once again shifted in the past year. Is it more fragile than ever – or have we finally settled into a state of relaxation? Italian heritage brand Ermenegildo Zegna has the answer – their latest Spring/Summer 2016 advertising campaign. The key lies in blending. Zegna forms a new, global aesthetic with a fusion of “new” and “old”. While still revolving in an overall angle around their heritage and DNA, relaxation is an addition to the brand’s values. This is why the campaign, shot by Inez & Vinoodh, features a row of self-aware, relaxed men posing in front of a simple, white background. Ermenegildo Zegna presents the new man: stylish, masculine – but contemporary. Main act of this set-up is actor and filmmaker Benn Northover – known for his role in the last two parts of Harry Potter as well as for his huge commitment to the independent film scene. For the Couture collection, the brand also settles into a lighter, more transparent atmosphere. Shades of “non-whites” are framed by optical whites and all-black looks. Next to the world of classic tailoring, the brand even sprinkles in a bit of colorful, informal attitude disguised as a relaxed take on the daily act of dressing up. Ladies and gentleman, get ready for 2016 – and the new Zegna man.
Coach Pre-Fall 2016
To find the middle way in life is always a tough choice. Think about your place of residence. What’s more to like, the country retreat or the fancy penthouse downtown? Don’t dismay, American brand Coach helps us ease the way between prairie and Park Avenue with their Pre-Fall collection 2016. Inspired by the great American landscapes, the collection dips into earthy colors and strong materials without losing the modern East cost vision of femininity. To make the collection more complex, the playful prairie-goth attitude is interrupted by sporty references to varsity and basketball – American legacy at its best. Furry boots also are a must, combined with traditional fur-lined leather jackets or cowgirl-inspired dresses. Too cold for fall? Throw on the furry, patched stole and you’re ready to go. Destination: city or countryside? You decide.
DKNY x New Museum Host Intimate Miami Beach Dinner
In celebration of a new partnership December 2, 2015, saw DKNY and New Museum host an exclusive dinner as part of the Miami Beach Art Basel. As guests were top names in fashion and art, they included the likes of Lisa Phillips, Shelley Fox Aarons, Dominique Levy and Karen Wong. With creative directors Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne, DKNY is collaborating with the art institution to further advocate women artists, as the New Museum has made one of its top priorities over the past 38 years. “The New Women’s Project” brings focus and support to the exhibitions and commissions of five women artists this coming year. Not only this, but DKNY will become the Lead Sponsor of the New Museum’s spring 2016 exhibitions, including solo exhibitions by Nicole Eisenman, Goshka Macuga, Cally Spooner and more, whilst overseen by Massimiliano Gioni, Artistic Director of the museum.
Berlin Art Film Festival
LA MORTE DI PASOLINI
Returning this year is the Berlin Art Film Festival, with 20 more films than last year. Without any official sponsor, “From poetry to porn to politics” incorporates the current crisis affecting Europe, whilst also commemorating those who have passed away this year and the on-going gentrification of Berlin today. Among those that will be shown are the likes of Telémachos Alexiou’s “La Morte di Pasolini” and Peter Kern’s “Sarah & Sarah”. Accompanying the film programmes will be parties, discussions, exhibitions and small installations to get involved with and as this festival runs on ticket sales alone, don’t hesitate to check it out!
The Berlin Art Film Festival occurs between December 10 to December 13, 2015.
SARAH & SARAH
THE RASPBERRY REICH
A LOW LIFE MYTHOLOGY
“Once and Forever”
Next week on December 1, Karl Lagerfeld will be revealing the CHANEL Métiers d’art collection in Rome’s legendary film studio complex, Cinecittà. As a prelude to the showing of the Paris-Rome 2015/16 collection, Lagerfeld will present his latest short film, “Once and forever”. With the aim to portray Gabrielle Chanel “through all stages of her life and the comeback in the 1950s”, current CHANEL muse, and face of the Paris-Rome 2015/16 Métiers d’art collection’s advertising campaign, Kristen Stewart will be embodying the label’s legendary founder alongside Geraldine Chaplin. The film itself takes place behind the scenes of costume tests and script meetings to tell the story of a lively film production with the aid of Jérémie Elkaïm, François Marthouret, Amanda Harlech, Jamie Bochert, Jake Davies, Baptiste Giabiconi and Laura Brown.
FENDI Reopens Rome’s Palazzo FENDI
This December FENDI are unveiling their completely refurbished Palazzo FENDI near Rome’s Spanish Steps. The five-storey building houses FENDI’s first boutique hotel alongside the Salon Privé, which is a luxurious apartment exclusively for VIP customers, and designed by the infamous Dimore Studio. Their largest flagship store accompanies the private residences after FENDI recently established their new headquarters in Palazzo della Civiltà in Rome’s EUR district.
Dries Van Noten Designs Costumes for Dance-Chamber Opera, Hagoromo
For his second design collaboration with contemporary dance since he teamed up with Teresa De Keersmaeker for her work “Rain”, Dries Van Noten is behind the authentic costumes of David Michalek’s reinterpretation of Hagoromo. A piece of traditional Japanese Noh theatre, this multidisciplinary show reunites Wendy Whelan and Jock Soto, both former principle dancers of New York City Ballet, to retell the tale of a fateful meeting between a poor fisherman and a fallen angel. The Belgian fashion designer draws inspiration from traditional Japanese costume design as well as typical kimono colour combinations to create a beautiful feather printed look for Whelan and a fish printed costume for Soto. Van Noten allocates minimalistic outfits to the other performers in the show, complimenting the simplistic set design of Michalek’s Hagoromo.
The world premier of Hagoromo is held at the Brooklyn Academy of Music Harvey Theatre between November 3 and November 8, 2015.
Good Gils Gone Bad
With Steven Meisel behind the camera, Prada unveil their Resort 2016 advertising campaign. Informal portraits of Lexi Boling, Meghan Collison, Ina Jensen, Lineisy Montero, Julia Nobis and Greta Varlese show the muses in front of a minimal, industrial backdrop, accentuating their “bad girl” edge with their intense gazes and cool body language.
The clothes themselves echo post-pop art with decorative oversized earrings, printed multi-coloured bags and layered leather shifts, clingy printed sweaters and striped sleeves. High impact pieces are based on the simple T-shirt with soft silhouettes in an exploration of post-modesty and luxury…the Prada woman should expect the unexpected if planning to fall down this rabbit hole.
Christian Dior Couture comes to London
Taking a piece of Paris to the doorstep of Londoners, Dior has opened a brand new pop-up store on Mayfair’s Mount Street. In an old Victorian building, just steps away from Hyde Park, lies Dior’s temporary address. Surrounded by its contemporary interior, customers can find Raf Simons’ FW15 collections for the label, including women’s ready-to-wear, accessories, footwear and leather goods.
The loft-like space is occupied with pieces by renowned interior designers, such as a Vladamir Kagan sofa, a Nuage table by Guy De Rougemont and Miroirs Gouttes by Hubert Le Gall. Christian Dior’s favourite color takes centre stage with a magnificent pink dressing room in the middle of the store.
Stone Island: Reflective Research ‘992-‘015
Debuting during the Tortona Design Week 2015 in Milan, Stone Island are bringing a retrospective exhibition of their innovative explorations into light refraction to New York. “Reflective Research ‘992-‘015” recounts the various textile manipulations that Carlo Rivetti’s label have experimented with since 1992, during an extensive study of safety workwear clothing. This involves an approach of using resins consisting of thousands of glass microspheres in coating textiles – meaning that when these fabrics hit the light in a dark setting, they completely light up.
The nostalgic exhibition includes a number of experimental processing techniques adopted by the brand on finished textiles and numerous items that never made it to production. The Stone Island Fall/Winter 2015/16 Collection will accompany it in a special presentation. Impressive.
“Stone Island: Reflective Research ‘992-'015’” is on exhibition at 41 Greene St, New York, until November 15, 2015.
An enchanting exhibition, “Mademoiselle Privé” depicts the charm and creativity of the captivating Gabrielle Chanel and Karl Lagerfeld. Hosted at London’s Saatchi Gallery, the exhibition begins outdoors, in a beautiful English garden, designed by Harry and David Rich. A tribute to Mademoiselle Chanel, the contemporary garden is split into three sections: “Liberty”, “Boy Capel” and “Leo”…these symbolizing her free spirit, the love of her life and a symbol of her strength and astrological star sign.
Visitors are then invited to explore the very heart of CHANEL in an exhibition commemorating the things and places most dear to Gabrielle Chanel, with an emphasis on her and Karl Lagerfeld’s most inspired haute couture creations. Eighty three years after it was rejected by Britain’s Custom regulations, the 1932 “Bjoux de Diamants” Collection exhibits alongside CHANEL N°5.
The final chapter to this remarkable journey realizes itself as an 18th century garden, “Jardin à la Française”, inspired by the stained glass windows of the orphanage in which Gabrielle Chanel grew up and learnt the seamtress trade…This being the original home to the iconic, interlocking Cs of CHANEL.
“Madmoiselle Privé” is held at London’s Saatchi Gallery until November 1, 2015.
Y/Project Spring/Summer 2016 Womens Collection
In the fourth season of Womenswear at the label, Glenn Martens creates an energetic, urban collection.
Graphic cuts sharply contrast lengths, from the super short to the floor grazing, whilst displaying a diverse range of shapes. Spliced garments and Martens’ continued exploration into drapery elongate silhouettes and are reflective of the architectural lines of a Gothic Church. Realized in a warm palette, fabrics are rich and accessorized with chunky metallic cuffs.
With Martens’ signature style of tailoring, he cleverly mixes masculinity with sensual femininity, ultimately creating a contemporary, innovative SS16 collection, quite unlike any other.
Bryan Adams: Exposed
Musician, photographer and founder of ZOO Magazine, Bryan Adams is nothing if not a multitasker. Self-taught, Adams’ photographic material has earned him several distinctions, including two of the German LeadAwards. Primarily focusing on fashion and portraits of celebrities, his work captures the energy and personality of each subject, who have included the likes of Amy Winehouse, Mick Jagger and even Queen Elizabeth II (which, for any collectors out there, actually made it’s way onto Canadian stamps).
His first book of photos entitled “Exposed” is now celebrated in exhibition form, welcoming visitors to see first hand his most remarkable images, in a comprehensive retrospect. The exhibition will run until November 28, 2015, at the Young Gallery, Brussels.
Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
Prada’s mischievous little sister has returned this season with a spring in her fabulously decorated step. Incredible zig zig patterned lace-up boots were executed in vivid hues whilst satin ballet pumps were a mish mash of hard and soft tones, adorned with harsh leather straps and delicate charms.
Solemn plaid checks and tweeds were layered under huge raccoon sashes and sheer shirts and frilled dresses. There were mismatched colors and patterns and jeweled feathered headbands carelessly slung around models necks…Miuccia Prada may have received a devastating loss in her personal life over the past few months, but the playful Miu Miu spirit was out in full force. Amazing.
Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
Everyone loves a bad girl and since Hedi Slimane’s take over at Saint Laurent, the label’s sales have gone up and up. His daring “fur coat no knickers” approach in this collection has taken the otherwise ordinary and transformed it into the ultimate 90s grunge festival attire.
Constant reworks of this season’s favorite throwback, the slip, appears in sheer lace, silk and sequins under statement jackets with bulky wellies, whilst strappy sandals, blazers and hot pant shorts make the collection seem very Kate Moss-esque.
For his Parisian finale, Slimane shows that his Saint Laurent Bad Girl can do elegance as well – when they want to and on their terms.
Kenzo Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
Carol Lim and Humberto Leon have transported us to the heart of the Meditteranean Summer with their latest line for Kenzo.
A decidedly young collection, it is packed with crop tops, bodysuits and mini skirts, not to mention their brilliantly reimagined 90s waist bags. Accessorizing with ornate jewelry and contemporary, gladiator-style thigh high boots, Lim and Leon elaborately mix occasions in each look whilst exploring bold tribal prints in vivid colours. The end effect is busy, but a cheerful one at that.
Rick Owens Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
There was a powerful message behind Rick Owen’s Paris show yesterday. What many would simply brandish as another bizarre fashion moment actually had a deep sentiment behind it, regarding the empathy and strength of women. Models twisted into unforgiving contortions were strapped to the torsos of other models, who walked the entire runway bearing such a weight in an Owens reinterpretation of a backpack.
The pieces themselves were beautiful and undertook new looks for the label. Beautifully tailored sleeveless duster jackets were worn over leather and canvas dresses, whilst crinkled raincoats and aviator-style jackets were mixed into the more typical range of Owen’s asymmetrical lines. His choice of footwear, being gladiator sandals or black leather boots, underlined the toughness of femininity and the inspiration behind the collection.
Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
It is all about the sheen at Dries Van Noten this season. Embroidered platform wedge mules set off a busy display of prints, netting and colors. The eclectic collection took inspiration from the vintage 30s and 40s, and blended in beautifully tailored pieces with incredible wide-leg jeans.
A wings motif spread out over models’ chests, who, donning victory rolls in their hair and carrying clutches, sparked connotations of the glamour of Hollywood in the old days. A continuation of the designer’s vision from last season, the collection was all the more dramatic in being shown in an abandoned warehouse setting.
Damien Hirst Opens the Newport Street Gallery with John Hoyland's "Power Stations"
After three years in production and around £25 million of his own money, Damien Hirst will finally open the Newport Street Gallery in Lambeth, London. Spreading itself over five buildings along one street, the gallery was designed by Caruso St. John and includes the renovation of three Victorian listed buldings, which before the second world war also served as galleries.
Newport Street Gallery will house over 3,000 works from Hirst’s personal collection and includes the likes of Francis Bacon and Tracy Emin. Alongside already established artists will be works from the new generation of emerging artists and from indigenous artists of the Pacific Northwest Coast.
The opening exhibition, displayed in all of the five buildings, will be a retrospective collection of works from the iconic abstract painter, John Hoyland (1934-2011), who has not featured in a major solo exhibition for nearly ten years.
The Newport Street Galleries will open to the public on October 8, 2015, in London. John Hoyland’s “Power Stations” will exhibit here until 3 April, 2016.
Blugirl Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
Blugirl has grown up this season, according to designer Anna Molinari. In a collection aimed to seduce, there are open shirt-dresses with ruffles, butterfly prints and asymmetric lines across the shoulder toying with femininity and sensuality. The palette is bold and bright with stripes breaking up block colours on beautifully soft fabrics such as crepe, taffeta and plumetis.
Charged with unpredictability are the diverse silhouettes and sharply contrasting lengths, in either baring the full leg and reaching the ankles. Overall, Molinari has achieved what she set out to with this current ready-to-wear in expressing a modern, playful femininity that will surely fly out of the shops.
Tod’s Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
The inspiration behind Alessandra Facchinetti’s latest collection for Tod’s is the formation of a new girl band. Members include the likes of Langley Fox Hemingway, Elizabeth Jagger and Chelsea Tyler; all either walking the show or sat in front row.
With a rockabilly start the collection is all Gommino loafers, neck scarves and quiffs. Monochrome prints and cropped trousers with leather a key fabric in the entire collection. Slouchy jumpers and unbuttoned shirts accessorized with printed bags exude an air of cool nonchalance – key to any successful band.
Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
Tomas Maier has taken us on a grand excursion to the outdoors with his latest collection for Bottega Veneta.
Starting off with his favourite hobbies, a sailcloth has become his biggest source of inspiration for the current line, which is easily reconised in his ruffled maxi dresses, tassle rope details and A-Line coats.
A mix of camo and animal prints amongst flashes of red and neutral tones and a range of contemporary jackets make for an exciting collection with a definitively urban edge.
Missoni Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
Taking a trip down memory lane, Angela Missoni has reintroduced sportswear as the basis of this season’s collection. Using the colourful artworks of Venezuelan Carlos Cruz Diez as inspiration, the show saw a runway packed with vivid prints and colors.
Zig zags and checks accompany stripes on the pieces, accessorized with chokers and sneakers or flat sandals. Looks were simplistic, usually including a maxi length dress or open cardigan or micro shorts or swimwear, keeping silhouettes sleek and long. An overall more relaxed feeling than last season at the label.
Peaches Releases New Album “Rub”
What else is in the teaches of Peaches? By the sounds of “Dick in the Air” and “Vaginoplasty”, it’s pretty much a sex-only subject. The notorious Canadian has announced her latest album, “Rub”, which features the likes of Kim Gordon, Simonne Jones and Feist. An electro mish mash of grimey, sexy synths and provocative lyrics, Peaches is back with her awesome new track “Light in Places”…Be warned however, with Empress Stah beaming a lazor out of her crotch throughout the video, it is not for the faint hearted… but then again who out of Peaches’ fanbase has ever been fainthearted.
Fay Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
It is a seventies paisley dream at Fay this season. With embroidered tunics, lace-up waistcoats and crochet galore, creative directors Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi have gone out all out boho.
Girlish ruffles and folk-style dresses are a mish mash of prints and layered with variations of military-inspired jackets, meaning there is a lot to look at. In comparison to the simple sophistication of their Fall/Winter 2016 line, this season at FAY has taken a less serious approach and added a touch of “elegant chaos”.
Replay Footwear Launch Online 24h Shoe Design Competition
In collaboration with Desall, a digital startup boasting an international platform of 60,000 creatives, Replay Footwear have announced a shoe design contest to extend their current shoe line and design their “24th shoe”.
The urban, unisex shoe must reflect the Replay brand DNA and must be of an original, unique design, appropriate for 24/7 use, with a monetary prize at stake. Replay fans can follow the competition and vote online at Replays Facebook and Instagram pages. Prospective entrants must personally subscribe to the Desall platform to participate in the competition. The contest ends in November.
J.W. Anderson Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at LFW
“A Woman’s Odyssey” is what J.W. Anderson was apparently calling his show backstage. A jumble of periods there was oversized ruched shoulders from what could only be the Renaissance period, monochrome sixties squiggle prints, eighties bodycon dresses and some incredible nineties metallic square toe boots.
In adopting a fairly neutral palette, the creative collection was eye opening but not overly excessive – it worked. J.W. Anderson has successfully created yet another completely original line.
Proenza Schouler Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at NYFW
Open shirt-dresses peeling off model’s shoulders, undone fastenings and asymmetric hems overtly hint at the inspiration behind this season’s Proenza Schouler Collection.
Indeed, Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough claimed it was “a peeling banana” that influenced the label’s luxurious ready-to-wear line. Makes sense doesn’t it? Already a clever collection, its combination of interesting shapes, textures and colors make it a beautiful one too. Mix in some ruffles, pom poms and feathers, and you are left with an ultra-feminine, contemporary line with a hint of Spanish influence.
Jeremy Scott Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at NYFW
The inspiration behind Jeremy Scott’s latest collection is blatantly obvious: 60s screen meets sci-fi. The designer fills his catwalk with a classic T.V. screen “squiggle” print on metallic fabrics amongst psychedelic monochrome patterns, alien green trapeze dresses and even a show-stopping conical bra to finish.
Indeed the ever-playful Scott has moved away from last season’s twee style and gravitated towards a cheekier look of fishnet tights, dangerously high hems and retro cartoon character prints…All made easier to digest by the collection’s simple shapes and silhouettes.
Hood By Air Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at NYFW
Another season at Hood By Air equals another season of Shayne Oliver doing whatever he wants. With deconstructed shirts, trousers, skirts, and just about everything else, Oliver consistently takes the mundane and transforms it into something extraordinary.
This school-uniform inspired collection sees the designer jump on the trend of gender blurring and showcases an equal number of male and female models wearing his interpretation of skirts and dresses on the runway. The bad boy of New York Fashion Week, Oliver revels in his Hood By Air revolution.
Paul Smith Presents “A Suit To Travel In”
Paul Smith has been making suits since the 70s. As the label’s Fall/Winter 2015 ad campaign proves, they know what they’re doing. The short film shows the British Olympic medalist Max Whitlock demonstrating the sheer flexibility of “A Suit To Travel In”, which is available for men and women. Without causing a single crease, Whitlock performs a sequence of impressive, dynamic gymnastic moves... If that can’t convince you then I don’t know what can.
Canali Launch Elegant Fall/Winter 2015 Campaign
Photographed by Van Mossevelde + N, a dapper Richard Biedul casually poses on iconic 50s style furniture wearing the collection that oozes a casual sophistication. In front of neon lights the current Canali campaign continues with a Milanese theme from their previous collection, celebrating the city in its buzzing 1950s era when contemporary ideas merged with classic tradition.
The Fall/Winter 2015 line of menswear is packed with geometric prints and intricate patterns upon luxurious yet unique fabrics. With the made-in-Italy high quality textures that the label is internationally renowned for, sleek designs realized in a minimal palette are kept exciting with flashes of “Canali” yellow, petrol blue and ivory.
The campaign will be shown globally on outdoor advertising, print media and online.
Xavier Dolan Realizes His Fashion Dreams with Louis Vuitton
Once hailed Quebec Cinema’s Boy Wonder, Xavier Dolan now celebrates being the face of Louis Vuitton’s Fall/Winter 2015 campaign. Dolan shot to fame with his directorial debut, “J’ai tué ma mère” at the tender age of 20. His fifth feature film, “Mommy”, also gained him international recognition in winning last year’s Jury Prize at Cannes Film Festival.
Photographed by Alasdair McLellan, Louis Vuitton’s showcases Ombré, the fashion label’s latest collection of leather goods. Dolan models two iconic bags from the range, the Keepall and the Porte-Documents Voyage Bandoulière. The actor/director/Paris-front-row-sitter, who has claimed it to have always been a childhood dream of his to front a luxury fashion brand, can now safely tick one off his bucket list.
Louis Vuitton’s newest campaign featuring Xavier Dolan hits magazines this October.
Moncler Announce Opening of New Boutique in Costa Mesa, California
Moncler unveil latest store in the exclusive Orange County’s South Coast Plaza, Costa Mesa. This luxury shopping centre is regarded as one of California’s most significant. The one-story boutique welcomes you to lose yourself in the world of Moncler, stocking the label’s mens and womenswear collections beside a huge array of accessories.
With the marble floors, French wooden paneling and two large store windows, designed by the Gilles & Boissier architecture studio, this new boutique is worth the visit. If unfortunately you can’t make it all the way to California, the highly established Moncler can also be found all over the world in cities and ski resorts.
Mulberry Enlist Actor Freddie Fox to Help Unveil New Men’s Collection
Known for their iconic English image, it is perhaps then not surprising that Mulberry have sought the help of English actor Freddie Fox in unveiling their latest concept, their new season exclusive Multi-Tasker Holdalls in Dazzle Camouflage. Reworking the classic military camo-print into a novel geometric design, the contemporary pattern appears on the classic Mulberry clipper as well as two new Multi-tasker styles in grey and blue.
Based on versatility and functionality, the Multi-tasker range offers a holdall and backpack whose handles are cleverly designed to flatten against the bag when not in use. This innovative feature is perfect for the modern-day, urban man who cycles to work everyday. Proving this is Freddie Fox, who in Mulberry’s new campaign walks us through a day in his life in London whilst using his Multi-Tasker Holdall, which is in Dazzle Camouflage. Also available in the collection are a range of accessories, including wallets and scarves.
Boris Mikhailov is Awarded The Goslar Kaiserring 2015
The internationally renowned Boris Mikhailov is rewarded for his groundbreaking efforts in photography, in particular, documenting Soviet Society. Following the footsteps of other revolutionary modern artists, including Gerhard Richter and more recently Matthew Barney, the Ukrainian photographer will accept the prestigious Goslar Kaiserring later this year.
Without any prior training, Boris Mikhilov began to pursue photography whilst working in a factory as an engineer. Experimenting with various techniques, he played around with pictorial material. From primarily capturing his life and the ordinary people who surrounded him on film, he went on to use photography as a medium to make social comments about the regime governing Berlin and the area in which he lived.
These astounding images have gone on to win Boris Mikhailov global recognition. After exhibiting his work in the West from the late 80s, he has acquired numerous awards and his solo collections of works can be found in huge art institutions such as MOMA, New York, and the Centre Georges Pompidou, Paris.
Boris Mikhailov receives the Goslar Kaiserring 2015 on October 10.
We Want More: 21st Century Music Photography
Currently shown at the Photographer’s Gallery in London (17 July – 20 September), We Want More studies the changing dynamic between “image-making and music in the 21st century”.
Unlike previous times, both the photographer and musician are no longer constrained by briefs given by particular publications. Instead they are freer to realize their own creative visions in the resulting images.
Curator Diane Smythe displays a range of energetic images, from Ewen Spencer’s Ayia Napa ravers to Katy Perry impersonating royalty, as shot by Ryan Enn Hughes.
Pictured above is a still from Roger Ballens’ series of alternative South African group Die Antwoord, from their iconic “Fink U Freeky” music video, which also features in the exhibition. Notably, Die Antwoord actually sought out Ballen to direct this for them, as they believed that he specifically could understand the vision they wanted to create.www.thephotographersgallery.org.uk
Prada Journal. A Place For New Stories.
“Illuminations, shadows and mirages. Things are not always what they seem.” This