Prada Fall/Winter 2015-2016 Womenswear Campaign
In a campaign shot by Steven Meisel, the FW Prada womenswear collection features an amalgam of new faces. Avery Blanchard, Estella Boersma, Inga Dezhina, Lineisy Montero, Ine Neefs, Greta Varlese and Maartje Verhoef make up the Prada pack. Embracing the beginning of the meta-modern age, Prada reframes notions of reality in an ode to what they have coined to be a meta-modern femininity. In this narrative, the virtual and the real seem almost indistinguishable – captured in Meisel’s statuesque and vignette-style photography series. Like the innate contrast of the real versus the virtual captured in the campaign, the materials and shapes of this collection play with opposition. Formal trousers are colored statement pink and metallic tops with opera-sleeves signal the emergence of a new ‘uniform - The Prada FW 2015 kind of uniform.
Kenzo Menswear Spring/Summer 2016 at Paris Fashion Week
Showcased in an underground, near alien setting, the Kenzo cave was populated by a congregation of outlandish models. The feel of futurism was undeniable. Reminiscent of a reality not too far off, fabrics were constructed geometrically in earthy shades of green, khaki, yellow and grey. Amidst quirky details, rounded glasses included, there were jackets with ruched sleeves and parachute-looking jumpsuits. The collection gave an impression of comfortable style, as functional as it is fashionable.
Maison Margiela Menswear Spring 2016 at Paris Fashion Week
Studded shoes, long black overcoats, leather, silver, ankle-length vests and the occasional abstract painting splashed across the chest. Maison Margiela’s collection captures the essence of an effortless yet fashion-minded man. Suits, coats and pants are fashioned in a nonchalant manner – the tailoring spot-on for an appropriately slouchy but crisp look.
The SS 16 Margiela man falls somewhere in-between an iconic Laurence Fishbourne in the Matrix and what you would imagine a modern day Dorian Gray to be. Badass but refined. Restrained but strong - timeless and memorable.
Valentino Menswear SS 16 at Paris Fashion Week
The sports infused wardrobe is here to stay. Earthy tones of browns, greens and ochre abound in this very wearable menswear collection. Denims and camouflage round off this fully-fledged men’s wardrobe. Valentino’s Pierpaolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri constructed with a true sense of quality a collection as multifaceted as it is flexible – the looks would certainly not seem out of place on most urban streets. Perhaps the only danger here is just how much the collections can be applied – wallets beware!
Ermenegildo Zegna Menswear Spring 2016 at Milan Fashion week
With effortless drapery, Stefano Pilati truly showcased a mastery of tailoring in the Ermenegildo Zegna Spring 2016 menswear show. Colored darkly, constructed perfectly, the Ermenegildo Zegna man is dressed in a reconceptualization of professional attire. In place of the tight-fitting suit we are presented with a flowing yet unmistakably masculine suit. Some garments are perhaps reminiscent of a sophisticated pajama getup, yet somehow Pilati’s art direction steers the collection away from cliché.
Gucci Menswear Spring 2016 at Milan Fashion Week
Alessandro Michele does not veer from the pristine vision of a John Lennonesque man brought to life in a reformulated sense. With tinted eyewear, flowered lace and shabby-chic hair, the Gucci man emerges as a well-stocked, well-researched vintage savant. Even with such direct references to the 70s silhouette, Alessandro seems to aim more at playing with the aspect of youth culture and the fashion choice of eccentricity, who often draw from old closets.
Axel Hoedt: Dusk
Taking you on a journey through the carnival culture of the southwest of Germany, Austria and Switzerland, Axel Hoedt’s project invites a critical and curious take on the representations of carnival. Dusk undermines the often clichéd traditional views of the carnival subculture, whose image is peppered with visions of somersaults and drunken debauchery.
Against the backdrops of simplicity and normality, Hoedt places the performers directly in the frame of an alternate existence – their lives outside of the revelry for which they are dressed. Photographed in earnest poses and against the backdrop of the harsh winter landscape, Hoedt evokes the true essence of the carnival: the final celebration before the dawning of hard times.
For more about Axel Hoedt’s project, go to:
Alexander McQueen Spring 2016 Menswear
Like the nautical reincarnation of the Victorian gentleman, Sarah Burton’s creative lead steered the McQueen collection towards graphic prints of mythical sea creatures on classic, vintage cuts. Tailored jacquard patterns were intertwined with up-scale pajama-inspired looks. To enhance the look of the nautical was the fresh-out-the-water locks.
AGL Fall/Winter 2015 Campaign starring Dakota Fanning
The Giusti sisters welcome back the ethereal Dakota Fanning back into the fold with her renewed position as face of AGL for a fourth season. The Fall/Winter 2015-16 collection is laced with androgyny, combining boyish styles with a feminine taste through its minimal shapes and bold details.
Vera, Marianna and Sara Giusti chose Dakota for her embodiment of the refined AGL spirit of femininity and playfulness, her energy captured in the monochrome images of photographer Rankin.
Diesel Black Gold SS 2016 Pre-Spring
Creative director Andreas Melbostad found his inspiration in Venice Beach for the upcoming Diesel Black Gold SS 2016 Pre-Spring collection. Known for its authentic Californian way of life, the beach, the bustling city and all manners of street inspired art constitute the iconic location.
With its metropolitan DNA, Diesel injects a decidedly sporty take on the edgier Californian, enhanced by a simplified palette of black and white, accentuated by electric blues and grays. Beach sports galvanized this collections’ structure, with chunky zippers, structured fabric choices and ergonomic tailoring details inspired by surfing and diving gear. The collection is diverse – from leather jackets to sports backpacks and jean styles. Minimalism is paired with an effortless and sporty-chic vibe.
HFN Reworked Vol.1 - Various Artists
In this first volume of the hfn’s music catalogue rework series, Neville Attree modifies and electrifies selected tracks from Reptile Youth, Darkness Falls and Human Woman. The Faded Ranger producer Attree twists and reworks in unexpected ways, creating a distinctively club-friendly sound. Using freestyle remixing and retrospective futurism, the producers’ compact instrumental form is delivered to you by way of melodic bass, attuned to both dancing pleasures and lounging leisure.
This reworked revelation includes three instrumental versions of reinvented classics hailing from the label’s formative years. A style reminiscent of “retrospective futurism”, Attree produces works fit for the bustling underground rave to the offbeat if not avant-garde soiree.
Various Artists – hfn reworked eins is available as of 25 May 2015 on hafendisko.
Villa Kubu Boutique Hotel & Spa
Located in the fantastical Seminyak region of Bali, Indonesia, the Villa Kubu offers an oasis of luxury leisure. Merely 1km away you will stumble onto the famous Seminyak beach, however with a range of romantic and private sanctuaries stocked with cozy furnishings and private-pool Villa’s, it just might be a little too hard to leave the premises.
To make things even more irresistible, full entertainment packages are set up in each Villa along with fully equipped kitchens. If you find yourself longing for a soul-nourishing escape, the chic Villa Kubu will cater to your holiday needs.
For offers, rates and more information, go to
Nordic Contemporary: “Too Much Of A Good Thing”
A temporary space at the Republique in Paris is set to house a formative group exhibition of artists from Denmark, Norway, Sweden and Finland. The Nordic gathering of ten Scandinavian artists, will exhibit paintings, sculptures, drawings and videos, presented through the artists’ unique interpretations. Beyond the mere geographical commonality of the artists, they are connected by their interest in the intersection of high and low culture, the polished and raw and the natural and clinical.
Founded, directed and curated by artist Andreas Emenius and cultural entrepreneur Jacob Valdemar, the series of changing exhibitions intend to showcase contemporary Scandinavian art in this satellite extension of the Copenhagen and Stockholm origins through diverse media. Mapping links between traditional and newer movements, the exhibition aims at delving into art that exists somewhere between self-reflection and self-expression.
Sebastian Helling, UNTITLED (AFFECTION), 2015
Jenni Hiltunen, Filmstill from "Grind", 2012
Rolf Nowotny, Bumbling Through the Night II, 2014
Erik Jeor, Icône VI, 2015
If you are a fan of Scandinavian art and contemporary culture then save the date for the Nordic Contemporary Paris Art Exhibition!
Nordic Contemporary opens Thursday May 28th till June 7th 2015 on rue du Château d’Eau 14 in Paris.
Replay Spring/Summer 2016 in Mykonos
Ringing in the summer season on the Greek island of Mykonos, Replay hosted about 700 guests for the launch of their 2016 SS collection. Treated to a sun-filled show with models such as Alessandra Ambrosio, Bar Rafaeli and Sara Sampaio, the Nammos Beach Club set the stage for Replay’s theme ‘Destroyed Denim’.
Inspired by the idyllic surroundings of the Mediterranean, the collection is wholly emblematic of the laid-back, relaxed lifestyle of island trendsetters. The theme effortlessly pairs the rugged styles of Replay’s classic denim wear with billowing, bright fabrics.
Inspired by the idyllic surroundings of the Mediterranean, the collection is wholly emblematic of the laid-back, relaxed lifestyle of island trendsetters. The theme effortlessly pairs the rugged styles of Replay’s classic denim wear with billowing, bright fabrics.
Milan Opening of Fondazione Prada Art Center
The industrial complex and former Società Italiana Spiriti distillery made for an imposing yet grand setting for the May 3rd opening of Fondazione Prada, the OMA-designed art center in Milan. With attendees such as Hans-Ulrich Obrist, curator of the Serpentine, artist Damien Hirst and filmmaker Steve McQueen, the creative world were out in full force. The new permanent venue is the result of a reinvigoration project developed by architectural giant OMA, with the aim of expanding upon the spatial typologies in which art can be exhibited. With Rem Koolhaas at the helm, the architectural configuration is a composite of seven existing buildings dating back to the 1910’s with three added structures, the Podium, Cinema and Torre.
Created in 1993, Fondazione Prada’s philosophy of analysing the present is made possible through various creative platforms including contemporary art exhibitions, architecture, cinema and philosophical projects. Curated by several departments and headed by Muccia Prada, Patrizio Bertelli and Gemano Celant, the space is constructed around the idea of creative knowledge exchange and enhanced learning.
Exhibits are put on in various forms, the upcoming ‘Serial Classic’, and ‘Portable Classic’ projects, birthed by Salvatore Settis, taking on the subject of classical Greek-Roman statuary reproduction, whilst their new Bar Luce, conceived by film director Wes Anderson, reconstructs the classical Milanese café through a cinematic lens. The Fondazione Prada is an all-encompassing experience of the creative life – a dynamism reflecting the combined expertise of its creators and contributors.
The Milan venue of Fondazione Prada will open to the public on Saturday 9 May 2015, with the exhibition Portable Classic (9 May – 13 September 2015).
CHANEL Seoul 2015/2016 Cruise Collection
Colored by Lagerfeld’s elegant crayon-inspired toolkit, the 2015/2016 Seoul cruise collection is inspired by the whimsically refined hanbok, the Korean peninsula’s traditional dress. The May 4th setting framed the angular patterns of the pieces. The Zaha Hadid designed room in the style of neoplasticism, was reminiscent of a sort of Mondrian playground. Nestled between the avant-gardist explosion of color and geometric silhouettes, CHANEL’s trademark appreciation of silks, linens, tulles and lace provided a subtle, yet firm nod towards Mademoiselle Chanel herself.
A contemporary reinterpretation of Asian sophistication, the show was as bold as it was effectual, producing images of a world injected by haute couture playfulness. Closely following the equally as fantastical Paris-Salzburg Métiers d’Art campaign, CHANEL certainly has not fallen short in inspiring reinventions of classics worldwide. The mastery with which Lagerfeld has consummately revitalized cultural classics in the past few years is resolutely underpinned by yet another formidable collection.
To see the show in its entirety, go to
CHANEL, Pharrell & Lederhosen
The Paris-Salzburg Métiers d’Art campaign stars CHANEL veteran Cara Delevingne, tour-de-force musician Pharrell Williams and the now seasoned runway walker Hudson Kroenig. Taken by Lagerfeld himself, the campaign features the collection’s trademark knits, knee-high lace-up boots and lederhosen.
Pharrell Williams, who will be awarded the CFDA Fashion Icon Award at this year’s ceremony, looked suitably at ease in the pieces inspired by the Hamburg-raised Lagerfeld’s roots. By combining the traditions of the region with a touch of Haute Couture, the collection evokes in the viewer connotations of a contemporary von Trapp family.
The collection will be available in boutiques and on chanel.com in June.
Slam Jam x Carhartt WIP
To celebrate the anniversary of Slam Jam, the Italian based clothing company rallied the creative force of Carhartt WIP and the British designer Andrew Bunney to develop their Boom Town Slickers jubilee project. Consisting of five looks under the themes “Putty Canvas”, “Denim”, “Reflective”, “Bandana” and “Chase Thermal”, the looks are all made of Carhartt WIP classics, and are an amalgamation of the reinterpretation of the old and the new.
Rooted in “street culture”, Slam Jam's aesthetic hails from the influences of music, sports and the visual arts. Over the past twenty-five years, the company has been bridging the world of streetwear and fashion.
The 3rd drop of its capsule collection “Boom Town Slickers” consists of special material and workwear items. The items from the 3rd drop entitled Reflective will be available from April 25th, followed by the 4th and 5th drop on May 25th and June 25th respectively. They will be available at Slam Jam and Carhartt WIP, both online and in store, as well as selected stores worldwide.
Prouvé RAW Office Edition launches during International Design Week
The collaborators G-Star RAW, Vitra and the Prouvé family are launching the second series of the Prouvé RAW furniture collaboration: the office edition.
Meeting the demands of the modern-day office, the ten-piece series refashions the designs through the use of heavy-duty fabric materials in industrial shades of green, reflecting the re-use of factory floors and workshops for creative agencies. The Office Furniture project was initiated through a variety of custom workstations, conference tables, office chairs and other pieces of furniture made to furnish G-Star’s Amsterdam offices.
Catherine Prouvé explains the collection’s contemporary renewal: “I like the fact that this edition honors my father’s original design, while complementing it with contemporary details. This follows his understanding of design, which he regarded as a dynamic process. To him design was a never-ending evolution, constantly striving to respond to changing needs.”
Valentino opens new flagship store in Rome
As of now, you can find the largest flagship store by Valentino in the heart of Rome. The creative masterminds behind the brand, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Picciolo, have collaborated with architect David Chipperfield to create an environment that captures Valentino exactly as it is. They combine traditional values with modern design, allowing the atmosphere of the store to be welcoming and artistic at the same time. Since the store is situated in Piazza di Spagna, the only thing you can do is to get lost in Italian tradition and craftsmanship while visiting.
Thompson Hotels can always be trusted to deliver you the finest quality during your stay. Wherever you go, you can count on a unique experience where you will still easily manage to feel at home. Right in the heart of London, the Belgraves combines a homey and warm atmosphere with beautiful design. Tara Bernerd designed 85 rooms, suites, a lounge bar, restaurant and lobby. Every piece has clearly been chosen carefully, to create an environment where you can sit back and just enjoy being there. It is a home away from home, where you can get inspired every day.
Miu Miu Opens New Store in Tokyo
For the newest Miu Miu store, the team behind the brand has collaborated with Swiss architects Herzog & de Meuron. They have created an architectural masterpiece that shows the core of Miu Miu as a brand. The store is artistic, quirky and everything is just a bit off. Exactly how Miu Miu is too. The store is located in the Aoyama District of Tokyo, a city Miu Miu has been focusing on for a while. Unlike many other luxury brands, Miu Miu gas chosen for an area that isn’t known for being very elegant. The architecture suits the Japanese city landscape and shows a new take on luxury; something Miuccia Prada has been doing from the start.
Calvin Klein Jeans #mycalvins Denim Series
Calvin Klein Jeans brings us a new denim collection inspired by urban streetwear. The collection exists out of logo-driven garments that are comfortable and iconic. For the advertising campaign, the brand has asked fashion photographer Alasdair McLellan to shoot Kendall Jenner and model Simon Nessman in a way that is fresh and typically Calvin Klein.
The line will be sold exclusively at Calvin Klein boutiques and on the brand’s website.
The Infrared Summer by Joseph Lally
The Visual Artist, Writer and Cosmic Thinker Joseph Lally has published his first novel. In this shocking story, he takes us into a world of glamour, sex, drugs, models and the powerful, all told from an insider’s perspective.
Now available on Amazon.com
Alexander McQueen at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Burton’s latest collection for Alexander McQueen told the story of life. The build-up of the show portrayed the beautiful beginning, the development and death of a rose as a perfect metaphor. The middle part of the collection was in full bloom, which was visible in silhouette and rich detail. Compared to other designers, Burton has chosen for different floral print for fall.
Key looks were short dresses that seemed to be literally made out of large flowers. The body was covered in ruffled chiffon, while the skirt looked like a popped flower.
Hermès as Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski presented her vision on Hermès for the first time with the Fall/Winter 2015 collection. Even though the entire show was essentially Hermès, Vanhee-Cybulski managed to show her own signature as well.
Since Hermès is well known for their leather, she has chosen to put some extra focus on this natural material for next season. The cuts of the garments are straight and give a minimalist vibe. All of this is enhancing the idea behind Hermès luxury; modest luxury with the highest quality, which is made for the wearer to enjoy.
Vivienne Westwood at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Vivienne Westwood’s Fall/Winter 2015 show was a ball, literally and figuratively speaking. Punk and hippie influences engaged together into a love affair, which made every look so completely and utterly Westwood.
The entire show felt like a reference to a fairytale, but this time it was one on acid. Tall hats gave the assumption that they belonged to snow whites dwarfs, while the red flowered cape seemed to be inspired by Little Red Riding hood. A man in a princess dress (including corset), with his face covered in black lines and his body with tattoos, paraded around as if there was nothing strange going on.
Every garment was interesting and breathtaking, but what Westwood managed to do with our imagination was far greater. She took us away.
Yohji Yamamoto at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Yamamoto’s Fall/winter 2015 show was as sober, sophisticated and uniform like we can always expect. Long dresses in draped velvet and wool gave the feeling of closed intimacy and anonymity.
Where other designers go back a few decades to find inspiration, it seems as if Yamamoto went back a few centuries. His looks felt more like they were beautiful costumes, only made to wear by people who could truly appreciate this art. The same goes for the less wearable spider-like constructions that he showed. Even though they are not made for wearing, they show Yamamoto’s genius as an artist rather then a fashion designer.
Balenciaga at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Alexander Wang has understood the essence of Balenciaga from the beginning on. Seeing his development with the brand is not only satisfying, but makes us want to get out of our chairs and give him a standing ovation.
The way the clothing is constructed refers to the work of Christóbal Balenciaga; showing a new way of looking at tailoring. Wang manages to embrace the shapes of the female body and work with that, rather than simply creating clothes and putting them on.
Tweed and wool dominated the show for next season, making sure that the collection is more of a classic one. Just like Christóbal himself, Wang is making garments that will last a lifetime. Or maybe even longer.
Dries Van Noten at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Dries Van Noten never fails to amaze. His Fall/Winter 2015 collection has clearly been inspired by his earlier work, which was simply inevitable by this point in time. We saw oriental colors and prints, combined with powerful but effortless shapes. Strong and rich materials met stiff and oversized fabrics that made every look slightly more modest.
The Dries-woman looks like she is somewhat of a modern emperor. Golden prints and embezzlements, together with the use of satin, scream femininity and refer to old China, where she seems to be taking over.
Loewe at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Jonathan Anderson has nothing left to prove, but he continues to amaze us with every collection he creates. The thing with Anderson seems simple; he does not produce or even design, he creates. With every collection for Loewe, he manages to bring us a step closer to himself.
For next fall, we see surprisingly more color then for the previous season. Once again, we see oversized, flared pants with large dresses and coats. The way Anderson drapes his garments combined with the choice of fabric, gives the looks an awkward flow that defines the silhouette. One that continues to intrigue.
Trussardi at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
During the latest Trussardi show, Gaia Trussardi portrayed a classic Femme Fatale. She chose an ultra feminine silhouette and combined this with highly luxurious materials. By using natural colors, she made sure that every look in the collection is very wearable, pointing at what is probably going to be a commercial success.
Giorgio Armani at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Metallics and brushstrokes dominated the latest show by Giorgio Armani. The collection consisted mostly out of jackets and pants, which made overall strong impression. Straight silhouettes and subtle layering made gave the collection a somewhat minimalist feel. Just like in the Emporio Armani show we saw last week, icy blues were everywhere to be found.
Emporio Armani at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Ice cold blues and deep, warm reds dominated the Emporio Armani Fall/Winter 2015 collection.
The overall mood was dark, vampy and there was a certain suspense. For some reason, it felt as if the models would smoothly fit into the set of David Lynch's Twin Peaks, which gave it something... idiosyncratic.
Armani managed to keep the Emporio woman utterly mysterious by adding goth-like elements to ensembles that were otherwise highly feminine and slightly more plain. The short, black hair, specific tailoring and use of black velvet turned the show into a Lynchian story, leaving us with goosebumps.
J.W. Anderson at London Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
J.W. Anderson is showing us something we have never seen him do before. He is introducing a new way of layering, with green, black and white corduroy pants under skirts and dresses. Anderson’s inspiration is visible in every part of the collection. Exaggerated shoulders, bright colors, draped velvet, shiny metallic and large plastic rings that accentuate the waist all reflect the early eighties.
Ankle length leather coats in light pink and dark brown and knee-high boots with draping on the top stood out the most during his show.
Gareth Pugh at London Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Not only is Gareth Pugh back in London for the first time in years, he has also chosen to take his homeland as an inspiration for the Fall/Winter 2015 collection. During this show, Pugh’s hooligans were ready to take over the city that once belonged to him. Painted faces linked to British football supporters, while headpieces with chains and tailored jackets clearly referred to the guards in front of Buckingham Palace.
The girl that Pugh introduced was somewhat of a royal dominator. She was extremely confident and powerful, which showed in the grand, static silhouette and use of strong materials such as stiff leather and metal. Pugh managed to take everything we expect from Britain, and turn it into something completely surprising.
Tokyo in Berlin
Nine years have passed since the opening of Zenkichi in Brooklyn. This year, owners Motoko Watanabe and Shaul Margulies have chosen to open a second branch in Berlin. They recently moved to Germany to open their café ‘House of Small Wonder’ in Mitte, and decided it was time to introduce authentic Japanese dining.
To mimic a true Japanese dining experience, Watanabe has chosen for a private and closed interior. The restaurant is divided into 35 private booths, where you can even pull down bamboo blinds if needed. Watanabe and Margulies stay away from Japanese clichés and get to the essence of the culture with their menu, interior and overall atmosphere.
Sjaron Minailo is a child of the nineties, and of postmodernism. Throughout the years, he has always found inspiration in the works of musician and artist Björk. He has now directed a new piece based on her album Medúlla, where several generations meet to celebrate the art of the opera.
The spectacular costumes and intriguing set have been designed by Henrik Vibskov, who has managed to create a visual style that fits Medúlla perfectly.
Diesel Black Gold at New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Andreas Melbostad is not the only designer who chose black as the main subject for his fall 2015 collection, but he sure is the one who managed to make black seem so colorful. High contrasts in masculinity and extreme femininity make each and every single garment in this collection effortlessly sexy, while being slightly intimidating at the same time. Short, flappy skirts are combined with oversized men’s jackets made out of wool. Lace details make the items seem softer and daintier, while belts and metal buckles hint at bondage.
THE STORE x Soho House Berlin
True to its rather succinct name, THE STORE offers a refined range from the very best cultural offerings, from fashion to furniture, art, beauty, books and food. Nestled in the lower ground and ground floors of Soho House in Berlin Mitte, the artfully architected space stretches over 2800 square-meters – a setting to inspire thought and creativity under an immersive installation.
Divided into two distinct zones, THE STORE centers around its Cultural Hub, boasting art installations, photographic and broadcasting studios, collaboration stations, Pizza East, Barber&Parlour and THE STORE Kitchen.
The retail element of THE STORE curates the most considered in fashion, art and design, a new home to brands such as Balenciaga, Jil Sander, J.W. Anderson, Proenza Schouler, Issey Miyake, Junya Watanabe, Christophe Lemaire and The Row.
THE STORE x Soho House opens February 2015.
Dior Homme at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
Dior Homme may well have fetishized the standard suit this season, but little about the collection was average. For a start, van Assche’s blending of black tie and baseball cap, each emblazoned by a flagrant floral badge corsage. Arid leather parkas were thrown on top of spotless suits, taking the starch out of pristine tailoring, while long coats were drawn-out to the ankles, teetering above vaulted virgin trainers.
Chambray denim jackets – so clean and efficient – slipped under the waistbands of rubbery leather sweatpants, slender in cut, yet long enough to buckle at the ankles. Navy chalk stripe suits bagged around slight bodies, single breasted and boxy – the apple of the eighties’ businessman’s eye – topped off by the tallying of a stubby round-edged briefcase. Palette maintained a monochrome uniform, save the electric blue flash of a thermo-finished zip cardigan, or the inverted watercolour prints playing out across felted wools in a woozy hit of lead grey and banana yellow. Tailored as it so seemed, van Assche’s excellence was all in the undoing – destructing all meaning, yet not a thread out of place.
Maison Margiela at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
It was a trippy hit of tinsely lurex, pimp coats and puddled psych prints this season at Maison Margiela – an exercise in ritzy decadence for lanky outsiders.
Waxy leathers took on redolent hues, cloaking shearling and trench coats in murky plums and teals, trimmed with delightfully dated salmon-pink teddy bear wool collars. When they weren’t garish and glossy, painted leathers were put to use as patchwork, their tattered patinas stitched to hessian toiles and engineered into blazers and flared pants.
Mauve marbled with olive green to craft slender cashmere crew-necks, tucked into swaying oxford bags and finished with a gentler interpretation of the Chelsea boot. Drainpipes took on the sheen of supple skins, paired with chunky Nordic knits for a mawkish insouciance. Meanwhile, cardigans and skin-tight sweaters were striped in frizzy lurex, unashamedly ostentatious with their sweet-wrapper sensibility.
Kaviar Gauche at Berlin Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Swollen swathes of snow white tulle and all-over applique lilies drive heads to the clouds under the distinctly dreamy vision of Kaviar Gauche this season.
A fine art to master, Kaviar Gauche here managed to strike the perfect balance between verbose elaboration and artful absence in negative space; porcelain-pure gowns were encrusted with a plush, pure white bed of blossom, flowering from the bodice and giving way to soft and unsullied sheaths of a silk chiffon skirt. Against long-sleeved tee-dresses, the bouquet sprawled to the hem, petering out in its climb to the neckline. The effect was that of a balancing act – give and take at its most resplendent.
When ornamentation ceased to bud from the cloth, it inverted, almost dissolving into a frosted layer of lace. Whispering over the body, nude tulles bore just a suggestion of Belgian lace, its intricacies only discernible if they happened to catch the light – a tailored mirage. An ivory illusion, dreamed up by Kaviar Gauche.
Raf Simons at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
The sentiment behind Simons’ collection was “youth on a pedestal”, which accounts much for its soul-baring, Dadaist print, raw-hemmed DIY aesthetic.
Graffiti-scrawled lab coats drew-out the length of the body, punctuated by a preppy poloneck peeping from a scholarly sweater. Knitted tank tops were mawkish in model but not in practice, as fluro freeform checks bedazzled in peachy pink and green.
Plum slim-fit pants were poised with pockets at the hips, slender to the knee before eeking out to a gentle flare, traipsing over shoes and under soles. Footwear flipped between sneakers and brogues, just the glimpse of toe cap to testify which was in post.
Cartoonish-collared coats were thatched in a russet gridded weave, paired with mustard scallop sweaters ripe from a seventies’ sofa – that is, of course, unless they were being lacquered in urgent licks of crimson and jet, rotund, waxy and warped to the knee. Simons may well have set out to put youth on a pedestal, yet they soon knocked themselves back down, self-deprecating as his teens did seem – but then again, angst is in the nature of the beast.
Augustin Teboul at Berlin Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Arcane as an all-black palette persists to be, the presentation of Augustin Teboul’s FW15 collection emerged aptly esoteric against the backdrop of the label’s photography exhibition, ‘Sounds of Black’.
Hugo Capablanca and Tanja Siren
Twenty-nine photos lined the walls of Berlin’s Kronprinzenpalais, depicting extraordinary people in rather ordinary situations. Shot by the master lens of Stefan Milev, subjects such as Iris Berben, Meret Becker, Donata Wenders and Peaches were immortalised in black and white, each wearing pieces from the collection in their own irrepressible image.
Like others before, this season demonstrated exceptional craftsmanship, perceptibly made by hand and to inspiring effect; wools were knotted and barbed, hooked over shoulders and undulating in its web. Silk chiffon blouses bulged at the sleeve, tucked into long lacquered gloves with commanding flair. Pop shapes were punched out in supple leather, stitched together as a progressive kind of patchwork. Mesh turtlenecks were erratically exaggerated, occasionally coated in an abstract crochet, other times fringed in compartmentalised bursts. Colour may comprise of just one voice, but under Augustin Teboul, it certainly makes a sound.
PHILIPP PLEIN at Milan Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
Harder. Better. Faster. Plein-er? Who’s to say that a designer can’t outdo themselves and add extra, extra oomph to an already over-charged aesthetic? Because, believe it or not, that’s exactly what German-born glitz and glamour designer Philipp Plein has accomplished for his latest menswear effort, showcased in the beautiful Milan.
For starters, to call it a show would be a gross understatement; the FW15 spectacle was nothing short of a, well, spectacle. #PLEINWARRIORS took over a cage-like rostrum, clad in lavish sportswear-esque garb. Bedazzled tiger heads found their way onto luxe jerseys. Coated onyx studs adorned smooth leather biker jackets - and pretty much everything else in sight. There was even a devil-horned motorcycle helmet. Is Plein the bad boy of fashion? Sure, but then again, it really does suit him.
The FW15 show oozed the kind of bravado and over-the-top-ness that only Plein is capable of pulling off sizzlingly. Speaking of which, the one and only Snoop Dogg delivered a two-part surprise performance, while party queen extraordinaire Paris Hilton cheered on from her front-row seat. With friends like that, you simply can’t lose.
Sibling at London Collections: Men Fall/Winter 2015
Overkill is a fallacy. There are times when the evidence is conclusively clear, such are the virtues of an all-pink palette. At least Sibling didn’t surrender to restraint this AW15 – and so much the better for it.
Firstly, the hue – a lurid top-shelf affair – so gleefully distasteful. Its use was indiscriminate, raking a gaudy fuchsia through black and white barcode stripes to bear a raucous rendition of a schoolboy blazer. The entire collection, as it happens, was a testimony to old English school days, and as such, cardigans and scarves dripped with delightfully garish lines, clashing with Argyle golf sweaters and hockey socks – underneath, the plain but still audacious flamingo pink shirt and tie, adding unctuous depth in pattern’s wake.
A one-colour binge is not without its idiosyncrasies, as was proved when the spice pink was snatched back to a tedious beige – a witty trompe-l’oeil of a fabric, feigning the guise of a crumpled paper bag to forge kraftpaper short-suits and biker jackets. But even those conscious of its disguise were almost tricked by its next prank, as a quick flash of the lining will testify; turn over the woefully-bland brown paper, and the highlighter-pink persists.
Coats were suitably and shamelessly synthetic, as full-blown swollen yeti pelts or as fuzzy fluro edging to a chunky leather suit. Knitwear, being the Sibling signature, quite rightly stole the show, offensively threadbare and monstrously oversized; on their best behaviour they bore Billy Bunter checkerboards, and on their worst, ripped to shreds – but slashes were more chivalrous than boorish or tatty, like neat round peep-holes to burrowed layers. Then there were the teddy bears, naïve knitted mascots great and small.
Discipline is overrated – it’s worth breaking the rules to be pretty in pink.
Burberry at London Collections: Men Fall/Winter 2015
FW15 and Burberry’s tour of the quintessential Englishman continues, this time via the Spice Route. Khaki kaftans and batik scarves coddled – colossal cloaks of fringed alpaca. Tapered pants arrived in sensible tones, almost utilitarian in earthen, practical wools. Paired with paisley shirts in shrill saffron pigments, the look called to mind the New Age pilgrim – 1969, fresh off the hippie trail – all Afghan coats and John Lennon glasses.
And this nomad wore his travels on his sleeve, quite literally – a heady mix of Mughal florals and mirrored Banjara sacks. Souvenir-styling gave the game away, printed shirts starched and buttoned up to the collar, stiff as a board beneath oxford blazers. But it was the tactility that told of a tourist’s eye, as though textures had been plucked straight from the traveller’s living room, eclectic as an opium den in fuzzy carpet fur and imitation leopard, cloistering chubby coats in sateen cinnamon and teal. Persian rug prints found their way under plush velvet smoking jackets, while that undying classic – the eternal trench – received a renovation, clad in a grid of teal tiles. Who knew Burberry was so bohemian?
BOSS Womenswear Pre-Fall 2015
They say opposites attract. Should you need any convincing, Jason Wu’s latest collection for BOSS Womenswear provides perfect proof.
Pre-Fall 2015 painted a picture of contrasts, inverting male and female sartorial codes with playful wit for an all the more considered take on androgyny.
Longstanding BOSS icons orientated the aesthetic, bolstered by a stalwart menswear motif in both outline and adornment. Windowpane and houndstooth checks are pregnant in scale, caricatured as pixelated macro prints or re-woven as tweeds, tailoring redefined by this new modern heritage. Digitized suiting fabrics arrived in the form of laser-cut chiffon, jacquard knit and fine herringbone beading, sombre in its monochrome baseline but revitalised by flashes of verdant green.
Evening dresses strike a covetable balance between tuxedo and sumptuous gown; the tuxedo softened by an extended shirt, and the gown rendered redolent by a hardy composition of geometric chiffon panels, engineered to the body.
And the role reversal extended to the accessories, with cufflinks replacing the hardware detail on handbags, belts and Chelsea boots, reconfigured under androgyny’s idiosyncratic eye. “A marriage of opposites”, as Wu so coined it. A match made in heaven, to all intents.
A Strong Sweet Smell of Incense at Pace London
During the '60s and the '80s, the Robert Fraser Gallery played an important role in the British art scene. Opened in 1962 by dealer and Swinging London fixture, Robert Fraser, the institution supported and helped launch the careers of some of the most influential artists of the 20th century.
Portrait of John Edwards Francis Bacon, 1988
Over the years, the London gallery became a social hub for iconic entertainers such as John Lennon, Yoko Ono, Mick Jagger, Keith Richards, William Burroughs, Marianne Faithful and Marlon Brando, many of whom were close friends of Fraser. Paul McCartney has even referred to the gallerist as “one of the most influential people of the London sixties scene”, while Richard Hamilton forever commemorated Fraser and Jagger’s drug-related arrest in his seminal work, ‘Swingeing London 67’.
Swingeing London 67R Hamilton
Delving in to the live and career of Robert Fraser, Pace London will reveal “a personal portrait” of the scintillating man. Curated by Brian Clarke, who was once represented by Fraser, ‘A Strong Sweet Smell of Incense” will capture the essence of the noted gallerist through a series of works by Francis Bacon, Jean-Michel Basquiat, Richard Hamilton, Jean Dubuffet, Dennis Hopper and many more. The exhibition will coincide with Clark’s solo presentation, ‘Spitfires and Primroses’, also at Pace London.
A Strong Sweet Smell of Incense: 6 February – 28 March, 2015 (6 Burlington Gardens) Spitfires and Primroses: 13 February – 21 March 2015 (6–10 Lexington Street)
Scugnizzi by Brett Lloyd
‘Scugnizzi’, the title of photographer Brett Lloyd’s new book, refers to the local kids in Naples who spend their summers hanging out on the city’s poorest beaches.
The Neapolitans are far from shy; they embrace themselves and their bodies, making for perfect photographic subjects. Over two summers, Lloyd captured these youths and their older peers, creating a catalogue of alluring, emotive and highly personal mementos.
‘Scugnizzi’, published by 'Dashwood Books NYC', will be launched on 10 December, 2014, at the ‘Donlon Books’ in London.
In Focus: Play at J. Paul Getty Museum
Summer, The Lower East Side, New York City, 1937. Weegee (Arthur Fellig). The J. Paul Getty Museum. © International Center of Photography
Photography was introduced in 1839. Around the same time, as a result of the Industrial Revolution, a number of people in Europe and the United States were starting to discover the perks of having a previously unimaginable amount of free time.
During the 1850s, the notion of leisure became a photographic subject; activities like visits to amusement parks and circuses and playing in the street were now recorded, highlighting the myriad ways in which people can spend their free time.
From 23 December, 2014, to 10 May, 2015, the Getty Museum in Los Angeles will present more than two dozen images from the institution's permanent collection. 'In Focus: Play' will trace the development of photography, all the while revealing the very nature of recreation.
The exhibition will feature photographic works by prominent and lesser-known artists such as Diane Arbus, Imogene Cunningham, Roger Fenton, Man Ray and Larry Sultan.
In Focus: Play 23 December, 2014 – 10 May, 2015
Rouge Absolute by Valentino X Cire Trudon
Just in time for the festive season, Valentino's Creative Directors Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli have introduced 'Rouge Absolute', a new scented candle created in collaboration with Cire Trudon, a legendary candle manufacturer established in 1643. The candle, available in select Valentino stores, is presented in a red glass jar, encapsulating the House of Valentino's sophisticated essence, and exudes a wonderful scent defined by geranium and jasmine, with accents of leather, patchouli, amber and balsam fir.
'Rouge Absolute' is made from biodegradable, vegetable origin wax and lasts from 55 to 65 hours.
Louis Vuitton Series 3 – Fall/Winter 2015-2016 Campaign
Starring new muse Alicia Vikander and returning beauty Jennifer Connelly, the campaign is shot by Juergen Teller and Bruce Weber and showcases the FW 2015-2016 collections worn by the quintessential Louis Vuitton woman. The refined elegance of the garments and the women is highlighted, juxtaposed against an industrial, stark background. Creative Director Nicolas Ghesquière has had an amazing season following the stunning resort collection and continues to take the brand to new heights.
Balmain Menswear Spring/Summer 2016 at Paris Fashion Week
Olivier Rousteing’s Balmain man is definitely memorable. A reimagination of the twentieth-century adventurer, Rousteing evokes the essence of a contemporary city explorer. Though perhaps not as practical as it is aesthetically pleasing, the throwback headpieces, khaki belted jackets and pocket-heavy pants are the results of a certain military pragmatism and an appreciation for the classic cuts of the 1900s, refashioned with the modern man in mind. Indeed, as Olivier Rousteing’s first menswear collection for Balmain, the collection is decidedly statement-worthy, and iconic in the way that it neatly reflects the iconic qualities of its inspirational figures – the traversing scientists and aristocrats of old.
Louis Vuitton Menswear Spring/Summer 2016 at Paris Fashion Week
Drawing from the animal-inspired imagery of Asian origin, Kim Jones presented a silky, aloof and quirky collection at Paris Fashion Week. As seemed to be the trend with the menswear collections recently, Jones drew inspiration from the intermingling of cultures and notions. Apparent in his garments were the sporty essences of the American variety: accessories resembled bowling bags, sweaters and letterman jackets were fashioned with a Louis Vuitton high-fashion tweak. Indeed following the spectacular womens’ resort collection, Jones does not disappoint. There is something in this collection for anyone, and it is with this strong sensibility for wearable eccentricity that the 2016 Menswear collection shines.
Raf Simons Menswear Spring 2016 at Paris Fashion Week
Bags were flung across shoulders attached to a literal chain – imitating a heaviness of memory and past. Indeed, Simons’ influences were perhaps more obvious than not, with headscarves cloaked around the models’ faces and that patterned beige coat that seemingly every single elderly woman ever depicted onscreen is in possession of. The chained bags might be symbolic of these vestiges of the past, clinging onto the next generation – here, most explicitly, through clothing. Raf Simons’ collection is perhaps steeped in somewhat heavy conceptualism, but it’s also totally cool.
Diesel Black Gold Menswear Spring/Summer 2016 at Milan Fashion Week
Creative director Andreas Melbostad presented the Diesel menswear collection in industrial surroundings during Milan Fashion week. With a reworked safari garments, the Diesel Black Gold man is irrevocably modernist and utilitarian. Textured and layered, the collection conjures and image of an urban survivalist. Safari pockets are teamed with survival jackets and cool color palettes, echoing a contemporary tailored collection.
Kenzo Resort 2016 Collection
The unifying pillar of the Kenzo Resort 2016 collection is its nod towards the modern-day woman on the go. With the universe at her feet and a yearning for functionality, Kenzo provides the sartorial relief for a woman in need of comfort paired with practicality and elegance. With subdued prints and flowing fabrics, the collection is made decidedly versatile with its soft, natural color scheme. Camouflage greens, stone greys, pale violets and beiges make sure the Kenzo Resort 2016 garments fits into any setting.
Gucci Fall Winter 2016 Campaign
“Those who are truly contemporary are those who neither perfectly coincide with their time nor adapt to its demands.”
Embracing the liminal quality of those who inhabit both past and present mentalities, the Gucci FW 2015-2016 campaign explores the disconnection of those not entirely at home in the present moment. The elegant mix of vintage elements and futuristic fabric combinations positions the collection within the elusive space between “no longer” and “not yet”.
Creative director Alessandro Michele explains that the collection is the summation of his envisioning of today’s urbanite attitude – blurring divisions of gender and time permeate every garment. In a campaign photographed by Glen Luchford, models Tessa Charlotte Bruinsma, Tobias Lundh, Lia Pavlova and Sven de Vries inhabit the bodies of the ‘Gucci contemporaries’. There is no doubt that Michele has delivered a stunning collection - be it past, present, or other.
J.W. Anderson Spring/Summer 2016
The Northern Irish gusto J.W. Anderson displayed for structural and practical garments came forth in full-force with raw denims, soft leathers and cottons at his London Collections show. The collection showcased Andersons’ true force within the menswear world – depicting the modern man in avant-garde cuts that were somehow made effortlessly classic.
Carrying forth this fashion-forward man was a striking throwback and definitive nod towards Louis XVI, Dorothy’s red ruby slippers and something altogether futuristic all at once. Indeed, this futuristic, mechanical and even astronautically constructed vision firmly plants Anderson in the position as one of menswears’ designated innovators.
Versace FW 2015 Campaign
Versace’s color-blocked playground stars models Karlie Kloss, Caroline Trentini and Lexi Boling as the fashion house’s campaign protagonists. Championing the strong sophistication of the Versace essence, primary colors dominate and provoke. Introducing the #GREEK motif, Donatella Versace’s artistic direction steers the iconic brand towards a remixed, modernized play on the mod-dress.
The striking campaign is the result of the photographers Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott, who enhanced Donatella’s vision of the woman unfazed and empowered by boldness through color and cut.
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SLOE presents their new collection ‘Avidness’
Founded by Antonia Siegmund and Matthias Last in the summer of 2012, the German label combines their belief in casual sensuality, urban grace and high-end materials in a sustainable form. With clean cuts and fine craftsmanship, SLOE launches their third collection ‘Avidness’.
SLOE’s collection typifies the fashion-labels’ understated elegance and stoic perseverance of the simplistic and durable aspects of contemporary style. As the capstone of ‘Avidness’, the fringed leather shoulder bag is created through careful selection of materials, designed to stand the test of time and style. Classic colors, tailored coats and sweaters underpin their timeless quality.
SLOE pieces can be purchased online and in selected stores.
Hotel Daniel Paris
Located in the middle of the Parisian heart, the Hotel Daniel is a decidedly quirky amalgamation of east and west. Furnished by the talented designer Tarfa Salam, the hotel inspires dreams of fantastical getaways. With elegance and charm in troves, the hotel's signature exotic style remains an alternative respite in the face of contemporary minimalism, where sumptuous décor ignite thoughts of far away lands in inner-city surroundings.
With a slight wander out the door, you will find yourself in a vibrant part of the city, the cultural veins of the city's heart sprouting in all directions in the form of art galleries, fashion houses, restaurants and nightclubs. Its own restauranteur, Chef Jérôme Bonnet, raised in Languedoc Roussillon, promises a sophisticated menu composed of traditional and self-made recipes. Barely aged past the year of seven, the Daniel is a connoisseur's choice.
Schwarzhogerzeil Opens On The Torstrasse
Owned by Nicole Hogerzeil, the Berlin located fashion retail store Schwarzhogerzeil has found a new home on the Torstrasse. Recreated in spacious surroundings, the space appropriately reflects the brands hand-picked by Hogerzeil – elegant, minimal and luxurious.
Conceived by the interior designer Sylvester Koziolek, the space has a decidedly Parisian charm ca 1940, yet refined with the features of the contemporary. Neon lighting and sturdy steel clothes racks come together in the creation of a certain ‘Schwarzhogerzeil atmosphere’ - an appreciation of quality and design. Labels to be found include Ball Pagès, Carven, Cedric Charlier, Isabel Marant, Marni, Dries van Note and Perret Schaad.
Opens the 20th of May.
VERSUS VERSACE – Fall/Winter 2015/2016
It is the first collection from Anthony Vaccarello after his permanent appointment as the creative director of Versace. Described by Vaccarello as radical and edgy yet paying homage to the traditional, the FW collection has a decidedly seamless air of timelessness to it.
Revealed during a live online happening, streamed from London, the Versus Versace collection seems the updated closet of a contemporary Scot. With structured coats, tailored suits and the ever so punkish tartan peppered amongst the dark forest greens and the jet-black, Vaccarello interweaves the feminine and masculine, converged under the cloak of the military aesthetic.
The themes are not wholly new to the more alternative-looking side to the Versace fashion house, with Versus Versace having been established in 1989 as the rebellious heart of the Versace oeuvre. Following its mission of instantaneous availability, the collection follows a show now, buy now, wear now mantra.
The collection is currently available at versusversace.com
Converse and COMME des GARÇONS announce new collaboration
The fruits of a collaborative effort between CONVERSE Inc. and COMME des GARÇONS, the brands unveil the fourth installment of their Play Special Edition Chick ’70 Sneakers.
Under the expert eye of the iconoclastic Japanese fashion house founded by designer Rei Kawakubo, the SS ’15 collection features black and milk canvas uppers, reinforced canvas heel strips and cushioned sock liners.
The red “Peeking” heart logo, created by New-York based graphic artist Filip Pagowski, embellishes the limited-edition collection. Featuring four exclusive pairs of premium All Star Chuck 70 sneakers, they come available in both high top and ox silhouettes.
The collection will be available for purchase exclusively at Dover Street Market stores in London and New York, as well as COMME des GARÇONS New York and online on May 14.
Giorgio Armani Celebrates 40th Anniversary with the Opening of ARMANI/SILOS
The opening of the Armani/Silos exhibition space on April 30th marks the 40th year of Giorgio Armani’s illustrious career. Open to the public, the space revels in futurism, revealing to the visitor a uniquely rich showcase of contemporary attitudes and lifestyles. Behind its sharp architectural exterior waits the 4,500 square meter, four level space.
Dubbed Silos due to its past life storing food, the designer explains its creation, “Because fashion, which seems to want to live in an eternal present, needs to reflect on itself and its own roots in order to face the future. Through this process of reflection, we see how fashion accompanies and often anticipates important social changes”. Behind the sharp architectural exterior lies the designer’s vision of simplicity, aiming to achieve a rational form, void of superfluous adornment.
The configuration of the space is of a dispersed creative life, the ground floor dedicated to his daywear, exoticism on the first floor, color schemes of the second floor and a theme of light on the fourth floor.
To read more, visit
Louis Vuitton 2016 Cruise Collection
On May 6th, the Cruise 2016 show made the landmark residence of Bob and Dolores Hope its grand stage. Created by revered Modernist architect John Lautner, the steel, concrete and glass windowed architecture seemed built for the show. Armor-like, metallic pieces were intertwined with ethereal, flowing prints, creating an aesthetic that could be described as futuristic boho-chic. Structured, practical boots were favoured over the heel, adding to the utilitarian feel.
The LV Cruise show caused quite the ruckus, not merely for its runway mastery, but its presence on social media. For the public and those not in attendance, the fashion house shared runway, backstage and after party moments with their Live Louis Vuitton Snapchat feature.
Nicholas Ghesquiere’s showcase was, however, so much more than a display of a stunning collection, it was a momentary glimpse of an alternate, Ghesquiere-curated life. The desolate yet beautiful surroundings of the Palm Springs location afforded to the showcase an outlandish, near alien atmosphere, and the clothing were equally as elevated.
To see the full show, go to
Prada Pre-Fall 2015 Campaign
Fashion house Prada kick off their Pre-Fall 2015 campaign with the photographic genius of Steven Meisel. Boldly showcasing the pristine and dramatic elegance that has become a trademark for the brand, shadows play off the subdued patterned fabrics and faces. Alluding to the stoicism of marble statues, the images play with the ambiguity of gender. The fashion house has long been an advocate of exploring the complexities of gender, spurring on the frequently emulated masculine shoe trend with their platform lace-ups.
Characteristics, similar and dissimilar, are explored in the collection, whose campaign highlights the often-synchronous style of male and female. Paired together in couples, models Maartje Verhoef, Niels Trispel, Willow Hand, Artur Chruszcz, Aya Jones, Tim Schuhmacher and others present the stark stoicism of the Prada Pre-Fall campaign.
Check out the Pre-Fall 2015 campaign at:
Tim Richmond's Last Best Hiding Place
The personal and contemporary odyssey through a landscape of filmic references – Tim Richmond’s Last Best Hiding Place reveals stories true or imagined, photographed over seven years throughout the American West.
A Montanan expression for “living under the radar”, the book’s title references the often haunting and melancholic atmosphere over a breadth of western states. Including images from the states of Wyoming, Montana, Utah and South Dakota, his subjects range from tattooed waitresses to the vast expanses of iconic railway.
Internationally acclaimed and widely published, the British Richmond’s prints have made their way into many a private collection. His departure towards a near ethnographic exploration of the American social and natural landscape encapsulates the cultural complexities and fascinations of stereotype.
The book will be available in a special edition of 100 copies, and a collector’s edition of 10, both signed and with a numbered certificate.
Book launch: Grimaldi Gavin, London, 23. June 2015
Available Europe: May / UK: June / USA: November 2015
The Artist is Absent: A Short Documentary on Martin Margiela
Directed by the award winning New York based writer and director Alison Chernick, the documentary reveals the impact of the Belgian creative genius Martin Margiela – the enigmatic mind behind several of the most consummately striking creations during the past two decades. Notoriously elusive, Margiela is known for his absence in the media, having never given an interview nor willingly posed for photographs.
As a reconstruction of his path to his dichotomous prominence, his presence becomes tangible through images and frames from his creative career, substantiated by personal interviews with some of fashion’s greatest names including Jean-Paul Gaultier, Raf Simons and Suzy Menkes, who have contributed to the mosaic of his extraordinary life. The documentary exemplifies the essence of Martin Margiela’s deconstructivist revolution, and has been acknowledged by the 2015 Tribeca Film Festival in the Best Documentary Short category.
Starting April 20, a short version of the twelve-minute documentary will be shown exclusively on yoox.com, thecorner.com and shoescribe.com. The full documentary will be showcased online from April 27, after the announcement of the 2015 Tribeca Film Festival winners.
Alessandro Michele’s First Gucci Campaign
Alessandro Michele does things differently. This was, of course, one of the main reasons he became the new creative director at Gucci last January. During his latest women’s wear show, he showed a new kind of sexiness that was surprising for a brand like Gucci. The glammed up fashion doll that we were used to disappeared, and it seems as if she is not coming back. Gucci’s new advertisement campaign shows Giannini’s last collection for the brand, but everything else shows Michele. Photographer Glen Luchford shot the series for the campaign, in which Michele’s fresh vision comes across perfectly.
New Work by Adam Pendleton at Pace Gallery London
Conceptualist Adam Pendleton is presenting new work at the Pace Gallery in London. From the 16th of April until the 23rd of May, the gallery is open for visitors. This multi-disciplinary artist has been known for using different media such as silkscreen printing, painting and video. To see what he has been up to, make sure not to miss this exhibition.
Fendi Launches a Digital Boutique
Fendi has just launched their digital boutique. You can now have the experience of visiting a Fendi store whenever you want. Whether it’s a holiday or the middle of the night, you’re always welcome to look around and see the latest capsule collections. The brand is offering you a 360° experience, where service is of high importance. The boutique is open in Europe for now, but the US and Japan will follow later this year.
#ATribute to Armani
The past forty years, Giorgio Armani has built one of the greatest fashion houses we know today. With many different brand extensions and a distinctive style, they have proven the importance of Italian fashion.
To celebrate the anniversary of Armani’s empire, the brand has created a website that brings a tribute to the brand. Using #ATribute, the website will unveil forty different themes, for every year the Armani house has existed.
Raf Simons x Fred Perry
The one thing they have always had in common is what makes them such a perfect match. Both have been important brands when it comes to music and referencing subcultures, which has led them to collaborate for the eleventh time. This year, Raf Simons chose for graphical prints and African-inspired shapes. He turns the perfect basic into a striking piece that shows boldness and exclusivity.
click to play video
Valentino at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Valentino’s collection for Fall/Winter 2015 was just as perfect as any of the previous ones. The cuts are brilliant, the details magnificent and fabrics are by far the best they can get their hands on.
Since their takeover, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli have lifted Valentino to new heights. Every show has been a spectacle in its own way, but none of them could compare to the closing looks we saw this time. Ben Stiller and Owen Wilson walked on stage in the roles of Derek Zoolander and Hansel, characters from the film Zoolander that came out in 2001. They were wearing Chiuri and Piccoili’s signature suits for Valentino, and had all eyes on them.
Commercially, Chiuri and Piccoili have been brilliant from the beginning on, but this stunt just proved their never ending creativity and their feel for what people want. Or maybe even need.
Stella McCartney at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
We can always count on Stella McCartney to bring us effortless elegance. She understands the city woman like no other, and knows exactly how to design comfort. Her latest collection for Fall/Winter 2015 was filled with chunky, knitted sweaters and pajama-like ensembles.
On the other hand, Stella proves that she is anything but lazy. All garments are well tailored, especially her dresses and high waisted pants.
Christian Dior at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Golden boy Raf Simons tags along with the others and jumps back to the sixties. Subtle but groovy prints, latex boots and garments made out of an innovative, mesh fabric gave the entire collection more sexiness then we have seen at Dior before. The looks are much more wearable then at previous collections, especially considering that these clothes will be worn in big cities.
Simons showed us that Dior can be something for everyone. For next fall, he created perfectly finished suits with cropped, wide pants. There were a few painted furs, and what we saw most were long, warm coats. If the classics weren’t good enough, you could enjoy thigh high latex boots and fluid mesh garments.
John Galliano at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
While John Galliano himself was focusing on a different house, his right hand, Bill Gaytten, took care of the latest collection. The result definitely did not scream Galliano’s drama as before, but it definitely showed the core of the brand. Extremely elegant femininity could be found in every look, together with craftsmanship and detail. The collection told a beautiful story of subtlety and beauty, something that Gaytten has done well.
Givenchy at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Whatever Riccardo Tisci does for Givenchy, there is always a good layer of melancholy. For Fall/Winter 2015, we see full looks in velvet with cut out patterns that hint to Victorian times. Next to century old details, Latin influences were clearly part of this collection again.
Naturally, we cannot ignore the jewelry that Tisci has brought back for next season. The focus was on the face once again, with nose rings and details under the eyes and on the chin.
Tisci’s Givenchy lady has a certain mystique around her. Her appearance tells a story of brokenness, while still being confident and slightly intimidating.
Vetements at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
In between all luxury and sophistication, Vetements is a breath of fresh air. Demna Gvasalia does things a bit differently. His latest collection was presented in Le Depot, a gay club in Paris. We saw police uniform-inspired looks, oversized coats and long floral dresses combined with what seemed to be cleaning gloves.
Gvasalia mismatches subcultures and creates a new reality for city kids. Even though the collection is diverse – it contains bomber jackets to full length knitted dresses – every single piece says the same thing: “I won’t bother you if you won’t bother me.”
Akris at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Albert Kriemler knows his clientele well. During his latest show for Akris, he presented a collection that consisted out of highly wearable garments, which were simple, elegant and well made. The overall collection was modest, where warm tones of white dominated most looks.
For next season, Kriemler experimented with textures on fabrics that managed to lift up the sober collection. For some of the looks, this meant that the fabrics seemed to be made out of reptile-like skin. The large use of grey and soft materials like jersey, gave the collection a feel of comfort, without being too lazy.
Missoni at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Angela Missoni has designed a collection that is a combination of eighties and late nineties vibes. Mismatched prints give us a fresh perspective on Missoni, and what it can be as a brand. Unlike all the black collections we’ve seen the past few weeks, Missoni gives us color for fall. It’s celebrating knitwear and the endless possibilities of it.
Fendi at Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week July 2015
After having collaborated for fifty years, Fendi and Karl Lagerfeld have announced their debut together at Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week. Next July, Fendi will combine its luxurious and distinctive design with their craftsmanship to create the Haute Fourrure collection. Like always, Fendi will be experimenting with fur, and taking it to a different level again.
Max Mara at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
The focus of Max Mara’s Fall/Winter 2015 collection wasn’t a highly unexpected choice. Coats were in the center of attention as models were protecting their bodies with the Max Mara classic: the one and only camel coat.
The rest of the collection contained smart business attire, made for the woman who juggles so many balls at once that we can’t even count them. She runs a company, has a loving family, keeps up with all her friends and continues to finish these side projects we don’t even remember she ever started. She’s a modern woman with a classic taste, one that Max Mara has figured out completely.
A new surprise was seeing the bomber-like jackets and jumpers in quilted satin at the end of the show. Combined with long pencil skirts and fine wool this contemporary look became another timeless ensemble.
Burberry Prorsum at London Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Every season, Christopher Bailey manages to give the Burberry classic a completely new life. For Fall/Winter 2015, he –like many other designers- decided to jump back fifty years to create a collection that was both lavish and engaging.
Mirrors, fringes and the use of suede referred to Woodstock-esque times. Other bohemian elements such as crochet and folklore-inspired prints also dominated the ensembles. Even though the colors and prints were bold, each and every piece seemed to be timeless.
The trench coat was portrayed in various ways, showing its power as an adaptable classic. Combined with over-the-knee boots in patchwork suede, this look is one that will not disappoint.
No. 21 at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
For Fall/Winter 2015, No. 21 tells us a modern fairytale. It takes us into a world of paradise, where serenity and comfort are key. Soft pastels and leafy prints make us want to jump right into the rabbit hole. Details such as black lace gloves under pink chiffon dresses show how subtlety can make the difference.
Alessandro Dell’Acqua, the creative director behind No. 21, can be seen as a master of the art of layering. Different textures and the finest materials are combined to create perfectly balanced looks. Delicate chiffon, warm wool, marvelous fur and subtle lace show his feel for quality and perfect finish.
The collection seems to bring an ode to the soft side of womanhood, something we’ve seen less of for next fall. Kindness and purity are tangled together in the fantasy that Dell’Acqua portrays.
BOSS at New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
It is clear that Jason Wu is trying to steer BOSS into a different direction. Whereas we normally expect the garments to be more utilitarian and formal, Wu is introducing a new way of looking at tailoring. He combines straight lines with curves, accentuates these with bold colors and gives more attention to details.
BOSS is still offering us business attire, but now it is focused on the reinvention of the modern woman. Wu covers her body with innovative fabrics and follows the lines of her silhouette to create a professional but highly elegant look. Naturally, he did not leave out the suit from this collection and created a sixties smoking-inspired ensemble. BOSS is empowering women, while celebrating femininity at the same time. By doing this, Wu is proving us that we should not have to choose.
Alexander Wang at New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Alexander Wang’s warriors are walking a different path. Since his last collections have been inspired by sportswear, he has chosen to go into a rougher direction for next fall.
Wang’s overload of black, the combination with plaid, studded details and heavy shoes clearly link to the music scene of the nineties. In fashion, we always go back to punk, heavy metal and everything else that tries to stay as far away from fashion as possible. It seems as if we adore the things and people that dislike fashion the most. Wang embraces this idea with both arms, and creates a cult of which we all want to be a part of. His use of hardware does not only show the influence of Balenciaga on Wang as a designer, but turns the garments into something utterly sophisticated as well.
Ellen von Unwerth shoots G-Star RAW Spring/Summer 2015 Campaign
Ellen von Unwerth and G-Star make perfect bedfellows, each exalting a strength of soul in body and spirit. Affinity certainly strikes true of this pertinent pairing, coming together to produce this arresting SS15 campaign.
The erratic beauty of von Unwerth’s inimitable photographic style speaks plainly of the endlessly altering merits of denim, wonderfully wavering under G-Star’s empathetic eye for fit. Men’s and Women’s styles span a spectrum to suit all manner of tastes, from chalk-white to cobalt denim, crisp and clean to distressed, skinny to slack. The only invariable, it seems, is a flattering fit, exceptional shape arriving in the form of perfectly-placed pockets and supple, stippling seams, or an artfully adjudged waistband to sculpt the body. Each image bearing the hashtag slogan, “Wear it #tightorwide”, interaction is impossibly inspired, G-Star’s capricious campaign tailored to the individual, just like the jeans.
Diesel launches Spring/Summer 2015 Campaign with #DieselHigh
Since he took to the helm nearly two years ago, Nicola Formichetti has commanded quite a change in the tides for Diesel, leading with the radical #DieselReboot, and arriving now at #DieselHigh.
Launching with the SS15 campaign, #DieselHigh celebrates optimism, love and a soul set on living life to the full. Dependably breaking barriers, Formichetti’s gleeful vision is surprisingly subversive, as smiling faces were shot by the lens of a typically insouciant Nick Knight.
Spontaneous and spirited, models such as Winne Harlow and Charlotte Free vault out of frame, jumping and laughing in a dizzying patchwork of Diesel denim. Photographic evidence, if ever it was needed: Diesel is most certainly destined for higher things.
Hien Le at Berlin Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Hien Le knows how to make sportswear sartorial; for FW15, chubby jerseys doted to sweatpants and sweaters, clean and correct in a piercing Yves Klein blue – a lesson in covetable casual tailoring. Silhouettes were unsullied, but not deprived of charming quirks; arms of crew neck sweaters cropped at the wrists, banded by gently wrinkling cuffs and punctuated by the peep of an ice-white shirt sleeve.
Sweatpants bore tailored crease lines – a dashing detail deepened by the addition of leather laced loafer. As the archetypal marl grey emerged, a scant sight of print played through under plump laser-cut bombers, suitably restrained in its orderly paint strokes.
Camel boiler-suits were buttoned up to the neck, smartened by shirt collars and slipped under smart wool coats. Fisherman knits were fattened-up, dense like brittle honeycomb, but in buttery buff hues, turned over at the neck for a suave sense of charm. Rarely has sportswear been so charismatic.
Amsterdam Fashion Week Highlights Fall/Winter 2015
Amsterdam Fashion Week kicked off to a sterling start with the advent of the Avelon show – a masterstroke in balancing boyish bedraggled tailoring with light, unruffled romance. Felted wools curled the body in sensible tones of charcoal and claret, sculpting wrap jackets, tailored co-ords and simple flared pants. Crombie coats were decked in intrepid Aztec prints – a heavy punch of pattern to punctuate a predilection for purity.
Said Mahrouf followed suit with simplicity for an unusually fluid execution of color-blocking. Bleach white sheaths were cut on the bias, lithely traipsing from shoulder to hips – a bite of crimson or pine green breaking through, but never once breaking the flow. Asymmetric vests curtained over slim tapered pants, but excellence certainly lied in Mahrouf’s sweeping gowns, so whispy and graceful, yet holding a determined strength in their decided geometric cuts.
Liquid cuts also found their way to the center of Barbara Langendijk’s debut collection. Influenced by the flat fabric construction of traditional Japanese textiles, Langendijk draped clean, curtly-cut silk swathes over the shoulders, cloaking sheer chiffon layers in a strict spectrum of blanch and buff gold.
The wildcard arrived in the form of Azis – a plague of digitized monochrome motifs and jarring visual texture. Diamond grid-check scarves were piled high on top of jackets on top of sweaters – a suffocating coddling of wool, snatched away by a sleek plain pencil skirt. Wraparound pinstripe funnel shirts flirted with chunky strap backpacks and varsity jackets adding a touch of scholarly rebellion, while hockey socks and virgin-white sneakers spoke of a wayward sensibility. Parachute silks bust in an exhilarating electric blue to spool salient sportswear, while buttery leathers blocked broad schoolboy shorts in a studious sooty grey, before giving way to the obligatory all-over tartan.
Read about more of the shows at www.fashionweek.nl
lala Berlin at Berlin Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
lala Berlin formed a flawless fairytale this FW15, sleek sweeping gowns in a sapphire spectrum, this season brought something of a Cinderella story. Chiffon sleeved dresses in ice blue slinked down the body and floated to the floor, cut out at the midriff like an inverted bodice, reimagined in negative space. You could say this was Piedayesh’s contemporary twist on the archetypal princess cut – and regal it was.
Gentle pleats plucked in the waist, wispy silken swathes left to fall like water from under elegant embroidered shell tops. Signature kaftans arrived in a pure azure hit, guilelessly graceful with its deep plunging neckline and fanning batwing sleeves, tracing the wrists to evoke the image of a butterfly. Longline jumpsuits ended the tale with a “happily ever after”, emerging as the ball gown’s cooler cousin in an insouciant sable silk, Swarovski epaulettes and all.
The presentation of the collection was a suitably imperial affair, with a gala banquet hosted at Berlin’s covetable restaurant, Crackers, in the company of some very special guests, including Heike Makatsch and Nina Hoss, alongside woman of the hour, Leyla Piedayesh – a fairy Godmother of sorts, seeing Cinderella safely through to midnight.
Valentino at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
It’s easy to detect when there are two minds behind a design because their references are so cryptic – all hybrids and red-herrings. Valentino proves a case in point, as Perpaolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri tread different paths in extracting their inspiration, and yet always seem to end up at the same point. This time, the mood found itself split between the Golden Age of the Ballets Russes in Paris, and the San Fransico Beat generation; disciples of two very different movements, but kindred in bohemian spirit.
For all the starched white shirts and sweaters and cigarette-slim cuts, with FW15, Valentino spawned a whole new movement of their own. Like Piccioli said, “Geometry is a new form of decoration”; he and Chiuri are master mathematicians, it would seem, commissioning Melbourne artist, Esther Stewart, to clad her compartmentalised color blocks over coats, knits and clutch bags – even the carpet wasn’t safe from her burnt, reedy hues. Moss greens and dusky blues struck a discordant note when hit with the shrill bite of tangerine, emblazoned across itemised silhouettes.
Pants assume the guise of denim, taking on a chambray sheen in indigo drills – paired with sheepskin, suede and puddled khaki camo, texture brought palette into line, regimented in Air Force tones. The butterflies of Spring/Summer gave way to their nocturnal cousins, embroidered across bomber jackets in moonlit midnight blue. Meanwhile, maps of the galaxy found their way into felting and charted across arms and chest, before fading to a flagrant op-art affair – a glittering comet shower stippling the surface of a pea-green silk suit. Valentino’s equation was surely a cryptic one, but one that warrants only one solution; two minds are most certainly better than one.
Ermenegildo Zegna at Milan Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
A great collection requires an equally great theme, a point of departure that can be built upon, layer after layer, until the end product is as polished as it could possibly be. For FW15, Ermenegildo Zegna’s Stefano Pilati took inspiration from the most fundamental source of everything there ever has and will exist, mother earth, and delivered a perfect compilation of sophisticated old-money outerwear and sumptuous casuals.
Set in a darkened forest, Pilati’s exploration of the natural world started off with a master class in luxurious everyday fashion. Through his elaborate fabric choices (plush velvet and coated tweed), the head of design presented a swarm of freshly traditional separates: manly long-line coats with a silvery sheen, roomy trousers, pulled high on the waist, and tailored riding jackets, worn over cashmere turtle-neck sweaters or under a leather duster.
The show ended with more stripped-back looks consisting of crisp white shirts with zipper or pocket detailing and barely pressed trousers. In a sense, then, he really went back to basics.
Iceberg at Milan Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
Here’s a question: who would ever think that mixing a pair of baby pink roll-up pants with a patterned burgundy full-zip sweater is a good idea? Federico Curradi, the Creative Director of Iceberg’s menswear line, for one, certainly would - and rightly so. As awkward as the pairing sounds, the surprisingly effervescent look was just one of the highlights of the Italian brand’s Milano presentation.
There was something soothingly poetic about Iceberg’s latest offering. The aforementioned pants. The shrunken beanies. The Seinfeld-esque fit. By combining undersized pieces with their ballooned-up counterparts, Curradi delivered the utmost magical ensembles, albeit perhaps a little strange-looking to the untrained eye.
There’s no denying that under Curradi’s masterful direction in the men’s division, the one-time knitwear-only specialists have grown into a fashion force to be reckoned with. And with no more than 20 looks for FW15, the public is inevitably left craving for more. Quality over quantity? At Iceberg, any time.
J.W. Anderson at London Collections: Men Fall/Winter 2015
Designers are a divided bunch; there are those who are disciples of beauty, and those who are disciples of thought. And then there’s J W Anderson – an exceptional master of both.
A single glance affords inescapable parallels to fashions past; flared legs and fluted cuffs belted by square psych pilgrim buckles and paired with spread lapels. Some might think it a perverse indulgence in all that’s ugly – a severe case of cacophilia – making a fetish of all that causes the skin to crawl. Brown leather trenchcoats bedecked, effeminate bodies – bare save the bolster of a chunky knitted choker. Giant daisy buttons dotted the chests of beige duster coats like girlish gingerbread men, but hyper-bland. Taupe conquered again, this time stretching over languid limbs as a slinky elastane number, tediously dreary and yet ripe for the disco.
Shearling suede coats were reconfigured as mod bombers, tight to torso while 90s bootcuts flared. Leather received the lurid treatment, emerging as cherry-red trousers and violet-stained jackets, replete with the delightfully repulsive silver ring zipper. Knitwear was, likewise, unashamedy plain, monotonous in mushroom bar a tubular roll of crimson to pipe a cartoonish turtleneck. The effect was that of a marvellously lacklustre Jetsons – the color turned down to a brilliant beige. As for a patchwork of fashions past, how could such a futuristic reference be nostalgic?
'Elastic Heart' by Sia Starring Shia Labeouf
Few music videos bear the hallmarks of exceptional iconography these days – rarely do they execute it twice – but the rulebook goes out the window with Sia’s latest release, rendered all the more surreal for its casting of Shia LaBeouf.
An extension of the narrative behind her unforgettable Grammy-nominated promo for ‘Chandelier’ released in May last year, the video for ‘Elastic Heart’ proves an equally unforgettable sequel, again featuring platinum-haired protagonist Maddie Ziegler, this time dancing alongside LaBeouf. Under the confines of a giant iron cage set in a steely vacant warehouse, Ziegler and LaBeouf present a poignant performance, the same iconic nude leotards ravaged by dirt, carving the contour of second round of awe-inspiring choreography, crafted under the artful eye of film-maker Daniel Askill. To brand the film a mere music video would be an injustice; here we have the second of two extraordinary works of art.
BOTTEGA VENETA x Casa BRUTUS: Preserving Japan’s Modern Relics
Craftsmanship has long laced the lifeblood of Bottega Veneta. Such devotion to artistry drives the object of their latest venture; the preservation of Japan’s Modern Architecture.
In partnership with Japan’s leading architecture and interior design magazine, Casa BRUTUS, Bottega Veneta is embarking on an initiative to raise awareness of Japan’s iconic Modern buildings – artefacts of a national heritage and whose legacy, over recent years, has come increasingly under threat.
While much of Japan’s post-war landscape has been ravaged by earthquake resistance issues or economic forces, it is in the run-up to Tokyo’s 2020 Olympic Games that poses the biggest threat to the city’s Modern relics and cultural landmarks.
The initiative was launched last month with a symposium supported by Bottega Veneta, held at the Kanazawa 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art, which instigated a critical dialogue between leading architect and developers, as to Japan’s endangered architecture. The collaboration continues with the release of the Casa BRUTUS January 2015 issue and exclusive online content, which have been curated in conjunction with Bottega Veneta’s Creative Director, Tomas Maier, as a special contributor.
Balmain Unveils Spring/Summer 2015 Campaign by Mario Sorrenti
Strength is cemented in the Balmain woman, her control so staunchly ingrained, she could charge combat – and under Olivier Rousteing’s command, the battle has been declared.
Strength is cemented in the Balmain woman, her control so staunchly ingrained, she could charge combat – and under Olivier Rousteing’s command, the battle has been declared.
The campaign, shot under the illusive gaze of Mario Sorrenti, extracts an essence of 1970s French cinema, with its warped realism and bleak urban outlook. Outfitted in a suitably subversive uniform, Balmain’s matchless cuts are none short of revolutionary under the agenda of Rousteing’s very modern warfare – everyday environments reinterpreted as pop battleground, prising fast food and eyes wide, entranced by video games, or fighting under the stark strip-lights of the subway. A covetable crusade indeed.
Alles Maskerade at Museum Villa Rot
'Alles Maskerade', a collective exhibit presented by the Museum Villa Rot (Burgrieden, Germany), explores the concepts of masquerade and carnival within the framework of contemporary art. The act of dressing up can be interpreted in many different ways, and can have just as many meanings. But how do masquerades hold up to their cultural value in the postmodern media age? And what impact do they have on contemporary art?
The showcase is part of a larger exhibition project, created in collaboration with the MEWO Kunsthalle and curated by Stefanie Dathe (Museum Villa Rot) and Axel Lapp (MEWO Kunsthalle).
The exhibit will feature the works of the following artists: Axel Hoedt, Phyllis Galembo, Kristof Georgen, Fergus Greer, Imme van der Haak, Thomas Hörl, Klaus Pichler, Yinka Shonibare MBE, Jacqui Stockdale, Jean Tinguely, Urban Camouflage and Miguel Walch.
Alles Maskerade: 16 November, 2014 – 22 February, 2015. Burgrieden, Germany.
All images via Axel Hoedt's www.exhibitionviews.co.uk
CHANEL Pre-Fall 2015
'Reincarnation', the short film starring Cara Delevingne and Pharrell Williams, was a prelude to the Paris-Salzburg 'Métiers d'art' show. Capturing the Austrian city's musical past (Salzburg was the birthplace of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart and served as the backdrop for 'The Sound of Music'), as well as its Baroque heritage, the collection, presented in Salzburg on 2 November, was brimming with historical references.
Variations of the CHANEL jacket (single-breasted, buttonless, cape-like, bolero, embroidered – you name it) were, rather understandably, the collection's focal point. It was here, in Salzburg, where the idea for the quintessential jacket was born thanks to Gabrielle Chanel's encounter with an impressively dressed lift operator at the city's Mittersill Hotel.
Baroque references were especially evident in the rich detailing – shimmering appliqués, gilded hooks and buttons, extravagant neck pieces and ruffled collars and sleeves. Adhering to the Alpine theme, models kept warm in tube socks or wooly tights, cosy jumpers and earmuffs.
La Perla Re-Opens Historic Boutique in Paris
La Perla has re-opened its historic Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré boutique in Paris. Designed by renowned architect Roberto Baciocchi, the store's interior was inspired by the Castelvecchio Museum in Verona, Italy. Soft, dusty colours pervade the 230 square metre space. Rich gold detailing accentuates the boutique's luxurious atmosphere.
The La Perla pieces are entrapped in delicate glass cases or displayed on velvet-clad trays. On the first floor, customers are welcomed into the VIP zone, where 'Made-to-Measure' collections are available. The area also leads to the boutique's most beautiful spot – the winter garden – where an array of show stopping pieces are presented on pedestals.
To commemorate the re-opening of the store, a celebratory event took place on 27 November, 2014. The launch party was attended by French actress Mélanie Laurent, dancer and choreographer Benjamin Millepied, as well as Tony Thornburg and Richard Biedul, models from the La Perla men's catwalk.
Bottega Veneta Fall/Winter 2015-2016 Campaign: “The Art of Collaboration”
The latest sequel to the ongoing collaborative of Creative Director Tomas Maier and distinct artists, the FW 15/16 campaign is shot by photographer Juergen Teller. Taken in the Museum Casa Mollino in Turin, the campaign has the mark of an unfinished canvas – rough and raw around the edges. The former home of Carlo Mollino, one of the most influential Italian designers of the mid-20th century reflects the spirit of the Bottega Veneta season.
Dior Homme Spring/Summer 2016 at Paris Fashion Week
“In All Disorder A Secret Order”. Kris Van Assche, Creative Director of Dior Homme presented his contemporary take on the haute bourgeois man, a playful interaction between tradition and alternative masculinity. Influenced by the popular sportswear trend, traditional aesthetics are infused by an overwhelming sense of French chic – in true Dior style. Camouflage is paired with the tightly tailored suit, intense colors spread throughout the collection in the form of statement jackets, belts and sleeves enhance the sleekness and simplicity of the SS 16 vision.
Dries Van Noten Menswear Spring 2016 at Paris Fashion Week
Red scorpions, red palm trees, a red Marylin – the Dries Van Noten Menswear collection was a thoroughly enjoyable, somewhat ominous seduction by way of iconic imagery. Images of Marylin Monroe were emblazoned elegantly through monochrome patterns peppered throughout the collection. Checkered billowing pants, striped shirts and paisley shorts were paired with summery, silky pieces in dark, somber colors. The Van Noten theme evoked imaginings of a sumptuous Hollywood pool party, only darker and more eerie.
G-Star RAW x Ellen von Unwerth: The Sequel
The iconic denim brand G-Star RAW teamed up with photographer Ellen von Unwerth for their second unique collaboration, this time in monochromatic splendor. The raw visuals of von Unwerth’s imagery highlight the denim texture’s distinct attitude. Playing with military poses, the campaign draws forth the denim’s youthful and rebellious connotations. Formative of G-Star RAW’s evolution has been the Elwood – the first ever pants constructed using 3D methods, which drew on biker pants for inspiration. The campaign showcases the wide range of G-Star RAW jeans from the Fall/Winter 2015 collection.
The FW 2015 collection is currently available online and in stores from August onwards.
Filippa K Fall/Winter 2015
Inspired by the works of Henri Rousseau, the FW 2015 collection is steeped in the mystic ambiance of Rousseau’s naturalistic paintings. Ingrained with French 70’s references, the collection blends Filippa K’s effortless simplicity with rich structure and decorative detailing. The women’s collection is epitomized by the rich wool blazer of a distinctly masculine origin, paired with an A-line leather skirt and a mid calf leather bootee.
The menswear section of the FW 15 collection is marked by a decidedly urban approach to contemporary functionalism and modern tailoring. In this vein, the collection has taken on an air of the sport, street and military references of the revitalized Filippa K man. With voluminous outerwear and a classic color palette, the FW 15 collection is a step towards an urbanized Filippa K aesthetic.
Hôtel Eugène en Ville Paris
Lying just a short distance from the Opera and the exquisite Galeries Lafayette, the Hôtel Eugène en Ville is a haven for those seeking a home base near the heart of Parisian culture. The surrounding area also boasts several shopping opportunities, restaurants and architecture.
The hotel offers rooms with a distinctively contemporary feel, making the Eugène en Ville a sophisticated yet comfortable space dressed in the guise of an edgy and stylized interior. For a memorable and perhaps quirky yet classy stay, the Hôtel Eugène en Ville is a splendid option for an easy and comfortable exploration of Paris.
Moschino Menswear Collection SS 2016
Inspirational origins were decidedly unsubtle and in-your-face at the Moschino Menswear SS 2016 show. Models walked out to the backdrop of a classical French mansion wearing accessories fit for… well Louis XVI himself. Certainly fascinating and absolutely eccentric, creative mind Jeremy Scott channels motor sports, French luxury and the rebellious air of Jimi Hendrix and Prince all at once.
Scott’s take on menswear prescriptions are definitively not to be put into a pigeonhole. Indeed, the signal is that there is absolutely nothing keeping you from wearing what you want to wear but availability, and Moschino and Scott certainly delivers.
“This is not about more pocket squares, more deconstructed jackets, more athelisure, more meh. It’s Moschino, baby.”
Art Basel June 18 – 21
The premier international art show for Modern and Contemporary work, Art Basel brings together an impressive amalgam of leading galleries worldwide to the very heart of Europe. Every artistic medium is represented, from painting, sculpture, installations and videos to prints, photography and performance. Described as the ‘Olympics of the Art World’, around 300 galleries from across the globe will ascend upon the Swiss town to view more than 4000 artists. Galleries such as MOT International, Esther Schipper, Zeno X Gallery and Galerie Isabella Bortolozzi will be presenting wide arrays of artists including Wu Tsang, Anton Corbijn, Roman Ondák and Elisabeth Price.
Ulay, Retouching Bruises, 1975. Stand J10
Phillippe Parreno, Speech Bubbles. Hall 2.1. Booth S1.
Michaël Borremans, The Horse, 2015. Hall 2.1, Booth P4
Wu Tsang, DAMELO TODO // ODOT OLEMAD, 2010-2011/14.
Laure Prouvost, It Heat Hit, 2010. Stadtkino Basel, Klostergasse 5, June 16.
In addition to the display of great masters and emerging talents, the show offers a program packed with informative and inspiring events, from symposiums, to films and artist talks. Talks on offer include artist talks presented by Danish artist Danh Vö and Curator Manuela Ammer, to conversations surrounding the public and private spheres of art globally. Among many others on this impressive rooster is Curator of the Serpentine Gallery Hans Ulrich Obrist, Solveig Øvstebø, executive Director and Chief Curator of The Renaissance Society and the artist Wael Shawky.
As one of the many artists present, founding father of performance art Ulay will exhibit parts of his new and previous works. Following his recent collaboration with ZOO, issues of ZOO No. 47 will also be present at his stand.
Gucci Cruise 2016 Collection
New York City set the stage for the morning show of Gucci’s Cruise 2016 collection on June 4th. The collection, conceived by its prolific Creative Director Alessandro Michele, consists of an easy-going, youthful appreciation of urban city life. Staged in a warehouse in the city, models walked in through the venue straight off the streets, reflecting the collections’ fresh, ready-to-wear vibe and vintage affinities of the urban city crowd.
Following the collection, Michele hosted a private supper party in celebration of the collection in The Browery Bar and Grill, with a custom menu provided by Bushwick eatery Roberta’s. Special performances by Karen Elson featuring Jackson Smith and DJ Kim Ann Foxman reflected the laid-back, edgy take on vintage city-chic of the 2016 Cruise collection.
Converse Rubber Tracks – Who Wants To Play?
Unlocking the doors to iconic studios the world over, Converse Inc. announces their global program Converse Rubber Tracks. Legendary spaces such as Abbey Road, Sunset Sound, Converse’s own two Rubber Tracks studios make up just some of the 12 landmark studios that will provide aspiring musicians the chance to record original music at absolutely no cost whatsoever.
Since its flagship studio opened in Brooklyn in 2011, the Converse Rubber Tracks team has collaborated with over 900 emerging artists, providing access to top-level recording equipment and instruments at no cost – with the artist retaining all rights. Converse’s Global Music Marketing Director Jed Lewis outlined Converse’s long dedication to the music industry, “As a brand so deeply rooted in the next generation of creative spirits, we’re eager to make history while inspiring creativity and self-expression among music communities worldwide.”
Global registration remains open until Wednesday, June 24th and is open to all emerging artists, bands and musicians aged 18 and older, of all genres and across the globe to register for this one-in-a-lifetime opportunity!
For more information and a chance to chase your recording-studio dreams, go to
Barny Nakhle for Haider Ackermann
Shoemaker Barny Nakhle has been appointed the new creative head of Haider Ackermann’s accessories department – more specifically its diverse footwear collection. Following work for stockists worldwide, Nakhle will contribute his own distinct craftsmanship to the Belgian shoe house. The Nahkle-conceived collection will be launched in a few weeks for the SS16 season.
With a decidedly architectural approach, playfulness and the sharpness of form come together to create an assemblage of uniform classicism with a twist of innovation. The collection is currently available via appointment only at the Boon showroom in Paris between June 24th – July 3rd.
Christian Dior Opens New Boutique in Seoul
Part marbled orchid, part contemporary architectural statement, Dior’s new Seoul-located boutique is built for an allround shopping experience. Created by the French architect Christian de Portzamparc, the boutique includes a lounge, gallery, and Pierre Herme-operated café, as well as the first stand-alone Homme Boutique. Located in the heart of the Cheongdam-dong, Gangnam-du district of Seoul, the imposing six-story building houses the fashion house’s extensive range of accessories and ready-to-wear.
To celebrate the opening of the boutique, Dior has launched a limited edition collection to be sold exclusively in Korea. The collection includes handbags and accessories and will be engraved with the “Limited Edition” seal. These unique-to-Korea items include a Tiger keychain and the lambskin Lady Dior handbags, created in the image of the façade of the Portzamparc building.
The boutique is set to open on June 20th, 2015.
Dior Cruise 2016 in Le Palais Bulles
Sitting on the cliffs of Théoule-sur-Mer, the grand habitat for Dior’s own Pierre Cardin came to be the unique setting for the Cruise showcase. A spectacle of a building and an architectural curiosity, its surroundings mimic the exuberant and vibrant quality of the equally playful garments. The terra-cotta bauble backdrop of the Antti Lovag-designed abode is intertwined with the inherent vision of the clothing.
Raf Simons, the artistic director of Christian Dior, elicits the landscape and memory of a certain Cote D’Azur mode de vie in the Dior 2016 Cruise Collection. Drawing inspiration from the natural world, the collection and evokes the ethereal quality of the serene southern coast.
Indeed, in Simons’ utopian project, tradition and technique merge in the creation of a collection that pair youthful modernism with traditional craftsmanship. Simons explains his approach to the collection as arising from the perspective of playful freedom and individuality, peppered with a light and fresh aesthetic. Fabrics are knitted and layered in a tapestry-like construction, a play on the idea of ‘homespun’ crafts, yet bolstered by bias cut gowns and lurex textiles.
SYBILLE by Hester Scheurwater
Dutch artist Hester Scheurwater does not tiptoe around the topic of female sexuality. Her oeuvre is beset by her ardent investigation and critique of the role of women as a sex object. Using portraiture, her work often includes the use of reflections, more specifically, through the inclusion of a physical mirror that communicate inner thoughts and outward appearance.
Explaining the impact of her work in ZOO issue 31, Scheurwater states “It is ‘normal’ for male artists to look at the female body and turn it into the object of their art. It becomes an aberration when it is a woman who handles the chisel or stands behind the camera, especially if they portray themselves”. Her work is no stranger to censorship, featuring provoking and often unsettling perspectives of the female form.
Her latest collaboration SYBILLE follows in the same vein. A collection of images taken of the same subject, the SYBILLE study is available in 100 softcover zine editions, signed and numbered.
Orders can be sent to firstname.lastname@example.org
TERRANOVA 'Restless' out on KOMPAKT
Following their acclaimed 2012 album Hotel Amour, TERRANOVA presents their new magnum opus RESTLESS. Consisting of the electronic DJ/Producer duo Fetisch and &ME, the latest release is a groovy ten-track collection of cosmic melodies.
The duo’s sixth LP delivers solid sounds for house aficionados, featuring collaborators such as Brooklyn singer Mandel Turner, Denmark’s Lydmor, Bonhomme and longtime collaborator Cath Coffey. Having been produced in “liquid Terranova soundsystem” fashion the LP is inspired by interpersonal and interstellar travelling.
The ambient and sturdy bass-injected sounds take on a melancholic ruggedness with the help of solid vocals. The totality can be described as a ‘dirtier’, outlandish affair. With tracks appropriately named KEPLER 186F and UNDERVERSE, the amalgamation of funky tracks should be ready to rock your interstellar house.
The 12-inch vinyl will be available on Kompakt, along with CD and digital downloads on May 11th.
Paris Photo Los Angeles 2015
Held on May 1st – 3rd, the annual spring art fair was presented by Paramount Pictures studios in Los Angeles. The blank canvas to the many bodies of work on display, the space featured 79 leading galleries and art book dealers from 17 countries worldwide. The public program was built around international cultural events, artists, art world professionals, collectors and institutions.
Artists and curators such as Pierre Bismuth, Jonathan Griffin (editor, Frieze Magazine) and Pauline J. Yao (Curator, M+, Hong Kong) engaged audiences with dialogues both practical and philosophical about the image in contemporary society in the Sound & Vision series. Exhibitors highlighted artists taken by diverse subjects and techniques – from the cinematic close ups of Ori Gersht, presented by the gallery ART LEXÏNG to the multilayered artifice of reflection in landsapes by Zoé T. Vizcaíno by DOCUMENT ART.
Presented by J.P. Morgan, UNEDITED! – An unveiling of never-before-seen photographic material and INTRODUCING! – The Young California Photographer Award was given for the first time to the UCLA Arts MFA student CJ Heyliger. Paris Photo also displayed a selection of artworks from the JPMorgan Chase Art Collection. The pieces in SPOTLIGHT! explore themes of identity, landscape and abstraction and included contemporary artists such as Thierry Fontaine, Ori Gersht and Thomas Ruff.
Images top to bottom:
Zoé T. Vizcaíno Umbral
Arden Ellis Surdam
To read more, visit www.parisphoto.com/losangeles
America’s Cup x Louis Vuitton
With the announcement of its renewed commitment to the ‘holy grail’ of sailing, Louis Vuitton is confirming its support of the sport by becoming the title partner of the America’s Cup World Series. Over time, the collaborations between America’s Cup and Louis Vuitton have grown into a fully-fledged partnership. Since 1983, the fashion house has worked with this bastion of adventure and sportsmanship. As the presenting partner of the 35th America’s Cup Match, Louis Vuitton will contribute their sense of timeless luxury to the Cup Qualifiers and Challenger Playoffs in 2016 and 2017 respectively, as well as present for the Cup Match in Bermuda in 2017.
The fashion house will have a visible presence in the tournament – on land, in the water and through live and online broadcasts. Dating back to 1851, the America’s Cup trophy is the oldest in international sport and an undeniable symbol of excellence. The Cup’s trophy travels encased in trademark Louis Vuitton style – their custom monogrammed case. Who better to transport this iconic trophy than one of the most recognizable in designer travel ware than Louis Vuitton! The Louis Vuitton America’s Cup World Series 2015 consists of a total of three events, kicking off in July in Portsmouth (UK), before travelling to Gothenburg (Sweden) and finally Bermuda.
John Varvatos - Detroit Homecoming
Detroit always comes back.
Setting his sights on his Motor-City roots, the contemporary American menswear designer John Varvatos makes a return with the opening of a Detroit-based store with his Bedrock Real Estate firm, in partnership with Dan Gilbert.
Combining the vintage aesthetic with impeccable tailoring techniques, Varvatos designs from the perspective of retrospection: “my philosophy is about reaching back to move forward”, says John. It is perhaps fitting then, that the design house is making its mark on “Motor City”, triumphantly returning to the musical melting pot where the sounds of Motown, rock & roll, blues, jazz and punk reverberated throughout its industrial streets.
Finding inspiration in great music, both classic and eclectic in taste, his musical influences remains continually and visibly present in his collections. His ad campaigns have featured a plethora of rock & roll legends such as Iggy Pop, Alice Cooper, Velvet Revolver, Chris Cornell and Dave Matthews among others.
The opening of the Detroit store was celebrated with the specialist aid of Alice Cooper, hosted by Chrysler.
The John Vervatos Detroit store is located on the ground floor of the former 1891 dated Schwankovsky Temple of Music.
Miu Miu: De Djess
Miu Miu has been celebrating femininity with the short-film series called Miu Miu Women’s Tales. This time, Alice Rohrwacher was given the chance to write and direct a film about the power of women. The film follows the story of several dresses that arrive at the shore. The main dress, also the lead in this particular film, has a different story to tell.
For some reason, the film has a slight Wes Anderson feel to it. There is some kind of uniqueness in the way the actors move, in art direction and communication. Even though the language used in the film is made up, it communicates the message clearly. Rather than giving you all the right answers, Rohrwacher makes you want to ask more questions.
Hard Rock Hotel Ibiza
For the first time in Europe, a Hard Rock Hotel has opened its doors. The five-star hotel is located on the beachfront of Ibiza, and is the island’s largest in the 5-star hotel category. With amazing line-ups, four restaurants and seven bars, there is always something to do.
To give visitors the ultimate rock star experience, the designers of the hotel have thought about every detail. The overall look might seem a bit over the top, but every corner and every room is created to give you a memorable musically-infused experience. Staying close to the essence of Hard Rock, you can find memorabilia throughout the entire hotel. You’ll see instruments and other items that were once owned by well-known musicians.
To make you feel like one of those musicians, you get to be completely in control of the music around you. When you check in, you can choose your favorite tracks that will play once enter your room. Once you get there, you can mix those tracks on a professional mixer that is ready for you to use, just like several instruments for you to jam on.
With thirteen different room categories, the Hard Rock Hotel Ibiza is an extremely diverse one. All 493 rooms are filled with nicely designed furniture to give you the most comfortable and inspiring stay. The spacious suites include all luxuries, with the best linens, led-light chromotherapy and an Xbox in every suite.
Diesel reintroduces Jogg Jeans
Back in 2011, Diesel launched Jogg Jeans for the first time. By using a special fabric, they made it possible to create jeans that were just as soft as a pair of sweatpants, but durable as denim at the same time. This year, Diesel is reintroducing Jogg Jeans with a campaign shot by artist Doug Abraham. It captures exactly what Jogg Jeans are about, along with the identity of Diesel.
Antony Morato Celebrates Italian Tradition
As a typically Italian brand, Antony Morato has shown that it is all about culture, style and the passion for beauty. To celebrate Italian tradition and their heritage, the brand has decided to become a part of the restoration of The Garden of the Finzi-Continis, an Italian classic. This elegant masterpiece stands for what Antony Morato strands for, and continues to inspire us. The film was directed by Vittorio De Sica in 1970 and won an Academy Award in 1972.
Bottega Veneta opens their first Home Collection Boutique in Milan
It is just like every thing else Bottega Veneta is about: extremely sophisticated and elegant, made with the highest quality materials and crafted by hand. Bottega Veneta’s home collection includes furniture, lighting and home decoration. For the first time, the brand has opened a boutique that is completely dedicated to this collection, right in the heart of Milan.
You can visit the store at Via Borgospesso n.5 in Milan.
Savage Beauty at the Victoria & Albert
When we look at the past few decades of British fashion, we can conclude quite quickly that Alexander McQueen has been one of the most innovative and creative designers. The board of the Victoria & Albert Museum in London has therefore decided to celebrate McQueen’s genius with an exhibition called “Savage Beauty”. It takes you through his life, mind and work and shows you his passions for romanticism and curiosities.
Portrait of Alexander McQueen, 1997 photographed by Marc Hom. © Marc Hom/Trunk Archive
It’s Only a Game, Spring/Summer 2005. Image: firstVIEW
The exhibition can be visited every day, until the 2nd of August of this year.
Chanel at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Karl Lagerfeld admitted to his love for France during his latest Chanel show. Since he has been opening grocery stores and rebuilding stages for the past few years, it was time for Brasserie Gabrielle to get introduced to the rest of the world.
He is known to be the designer that keeps on evolving the oh so classical brand of Chanel, and he managed to do that once again. It is not only in the way he presents the collections, but it is hidden in details and materials too.
Lagerfeld is celebrating Chanel heritage; in the way he refers to French culture, and in every garment he creates.
Louis Vuitton at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Ever since Nicolas Ghesquière took over the steering wheel, Louis Vuitton has been traveling into a slightly different direction. For the Fall/Winter 2015 collection, he has found a way to add some of that Parisian rock ‘n roll into Vuitton’s classic luxury.
Biker pants and jackets were combined with short dresses in flower prints, finished up with pointy heels and low, black boots. The looks felt casual and laid-back, but none of them lacked flare.
WUNDERKIND at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
During the latest WUNDERKIND show, Wolfgang Joop gave us interesting combinations. Contrasting colors and clashing prints, bourgeoisie and bohemia. All of this was tangled up together into a collection of garments that still managed to be highly wearable and inspiring at the same time.
Westwood-esque silhouettes and luxurious tailoring emerged together into something that we can call a perfect balance. WUNDERKIND continues to embrace prints, and they do it well.
Kenzo at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
If we try to predict how the streets will look for next fall, we can simply start by showing you the latest collection by Kenzo. Once again, Carol Lim and Humberto Leon have created a collection that is going to be everywhere.
Perfect Kenzo prints, bright colors combined with deep, darker ones and layers of sweaters, skirts and pants. Flowing, light skirts and dressed with large, warm shearling jackets reach perfect balance. It as a highly commercial, beautiful collection, that we won’t mind seeing everywhere.
Balmain at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Fringes, extremely wide flared pants, stripes and large belts around the waist all referred to this specific luxury from the seventies. Oliver Rousteing showed his vision for Balmain in a way that was clear and spot on. It is that confident girl, which likes to be looked at. An intimidating woman, that doesn’t dress down.
The overall feel of the collection was very Parisian; something that Balmain has always had in its essence. Every look seems to be perfect for a night out in Paris, but only if you fit the previous description.
Lanvin at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Alber Elbaz is good with colors. He is also great with fabrics. He is brilliant with silhouette and always knows exactly when to stop adding. For his latest Lanvin collection, he found inspiration in the desert and in tribal wear. What he presented was proof of how a woman can change constantly. From a modern nomad to a new minimalist, from a powerful ruler to a slightly more innocent companion.
The combination of black velvet and subtle harnesses in leather, gave us some kind of medieval feel. Short ruffles almost felt Siberian and straight lines were minimalistic.
Tod’s at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Alessandra Facchinetti knows exactly what she is doing with Tod’s, which originally started as a footwear brand. For the past few seasons, she has been pushing the boundaries within Tod’s design. She showed us full looks in leather for Fall/Winter 2015, in soft pastels with a few popping brights. The collection is extremely feminine and dares to combine many different styles into one.
CoSTUME NATIONAL at Milan Fashion Fall/Winter 2015
Ennio Capasa manages to bring New York to Milan. His minimalistic, black looks in leather and other luxurious materials like silk, seem to be made for young people in creative capitals. Hoodie-like jackets and details on dresses give the collection a sporty, even more urban look. Combine that with fur and ruffles, and you’ve got yourself some New York in Milan.
Prada at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Miuccia Prada presented us a quirky female villain from a cartoon, ready to take over the planet. Even though Miuccia herself has already taken over, we would like to discuss some of the things this antihero was wearing. Covered in pastels, bows and soft fur patches on her shoulders, this lady does not seem harmful at first sight. Cropped pants and groovy prints add to her innocence, while long leather gloves suggest otherwise. This girl is ready to do some dirty work.
We saw brilliant tailoring, beautiful details and fascinating combinations of textures. Brooches and buttons were quite subtly added to every look, making sure that every ensemble was screaming Prada. Not that Miuccia needs a few brooches for that, because everything we saw during this show could not be created by anyone else.
PHILIPP PLEIN at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Ever since he started his brand, PHILIPP PLEIN has been focused on taking streetwear to different level. We never know quite what to expect, even though he does not necessarily give us something extremely modernistic to chew on. There is something about his personal style that is familiar yet intriguing.
Plein’s looks are anything but plain. Cut out leather and voluminous fur dominated his latest show. The combination with hardware and crystals makes every piece an eye-catching phenomenon, turning the collection into a celebration of luxury and boldness.
Next to the collection, Plein made sure he impressed us with the colossal rollercoaster he had installed. In his book, even the sky is not the limit.
Vivienne Westwood Red Label at London Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
There is always something particularly dramatic about Dame Vivienne Westwood. For the first look of her new collection, she started off with a quite quiet, grey oversized coat. Immediately after that, we saw her true nature come out with various asymmetric designs in bold color combinations. There was a lot of Westwood’s classic tailoring going on, combined with perfect draping that showed impeccable fluidity. By using velvet and silk, she made sure that this would only be complimented.
The show existed out of both quirky items and highly wearable, slightly discreet jackets and pants. Altogether, Westwood –once again- managed to meet our expectations.
Calvin Klein Collection at New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Francisco Costa is not the first designer to get inspired by the sixties for this season, but he is definitely the one who managed to mold it into the minimalistic Calvin Klein aesthetic we all adore. For next fall, we saw many of the sleek dresses that we are used to seeing, but the other classics were all in there as well. Tight, over-the-knee boots, patchwork leather, wide collars and A-line coats. Metal details and large buttons gave the collection a playful twist, and referred to 1960s pop culture.
Into the Mind of Ghesquière
Lately, there have been many different ways of presenting collections, but Nicolas Ghesquière is once again taking things to another level. He brings his spring 2015 women’s ready-to-wear collection for Louis Vuitton to Los Angeles, where they opened a multi-room exhibit. In the gallery, located in the heart of Hollywood, Louis Vuitton takes you on a journey through Ghesquière’s creative process and shows you his timeless inspirations. Series 2 makes you think differently about fashion, shows the essence of Louis Vuitton and allows you to travel through the mind of this master.
Porsche Design at New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Even though the latest show by Porsche Design is a mixture of forties and eighties styles, futuristic vibes, utilitarian silhouettes and slight rockabilly influences, it still remains a coherent collection. Wool coats, stiff jackets and somewhat casual suits hint towards a young but ambitious target audience. Large belts exaggerate the waistline to create a strong, yet feminine look, while fall colors such as black, grey, dark green and beige make the garments highly wearable.
Pierre Costin, the designer behind the brand, has chosen to present a powerful and modern couple. Traditional values meet a new aesthetic, which offers us a playful interpretation of how power can look.
Z Zegna Spring/Summer 2015 Campaign
Z Zegna vamps up the velocity with its latest campaign, an ambitious multimedia affair, “Be Your Own Style 24:7”.
Interpreted within a high-octane film, the sports tailoring of Z Zegna’s Spring/Summer collection hits dizzying heights, sported by professional parkourists as they chase their next urban adrenaline fix from Milan’s exquisite architecture. Scintillating, sharp and impossibly sleek, Z Zegna’s modern man may seek out a life on the edge, but not at his sartorial expense – that’s one thing that’s kept cautious, 24:7.
Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2015 Campaign
Vivienne Westwood and Juergen Teller have joined forces once again, this time together with American actress, Paz de la Huerta, star of Westwood’s artful SS15 campaign.
Against scrap-papered walls and paint-stippled floors, de la Huerta, Westwood and Andreas Kronthaler pose and play in the experimental environs of Nuremberg’s Academy of Fine Arts, where the designer teaches. Westwood and Andreas fell in love with the architecture of the school, sensing it an inspiring setting to shoot. Seemly in the surrounds, it was Teller’s suggestion to involve the students in the creation of the campaign – some even appearing in the pictures as subjects.
True to form, the images are unhinged, vivacious and unapologetically brazen, stark in the steely light of Teller’s flash, frames seditious and skewed. A chaotic curation from the Gold Label, Red Label, MAN and accessories collections, clothes proved suitably subversive – and rightly so. It is Westwood, after all…
COMME des GARÇONS at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
No matter how many times Rei Kawakubo gets her hands on tailoring, you can be sure that whatever she produces will be entirely distinct from anything gone before. This season proved no different, reliably idiosyncratic, yet impossibly singular.
Snug sleeved tops and leggings were scrawled in kaleidoscopic graffiti scripts, inky colors blushed and bleeding across the body. Biro-blue suits were sucked skin-tight, cinched in at the stomach by double-breasted buttons.
Traditional pinstripes sat fittingly far from convention, the way blazer buttons seemed to curl around the body, garments appearing almost reluctant – struggling to escape. Bulky blazers hung from shoulders and swung airily above shorn broad shorts, while mandarin collars carved jackets with a cunningly clean line. Culottes kicked out thanks to kilt pleats, paired with diamond-check golfing shirt and bow tie, before giving way to gummy leather suits, bandaging the body in strips of supple skins.
Dries van Noten at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
When it comes to sumptuous ornamentation, you can always trust Dries van Noten to come up trumps. FW15 may well have opened with the utilitarian, but that soon succumbed to the not-so-cheap thrill of paisley brocade and silk jacquard.
Sand combat pants puddled around the calf – their drainpipe cousins peeping beneath as a matching underlay. Navy pea coats in felted wool paraded their buttons just off-centre, necks syphoned by funnel collars and chests ruled with black grosgrain bands. Mandarin coats almost bypassed as duffels in their heavy yarns, finished off with industrial steel toggles and high-vis white stripes.
Eiderdown quilting doubled as jogging pants, cuffed curtly at the ankle and finished with an un-socked leather loafer. Kilts curtained cigarette pants – a folkish citation rendered esoteric with the addition of a button flap pocket, replete with ornate woven trim. Silk shirts bore floral prints in indigo and moss green, unbuttoned to the lower chest and left to slink off shoulders. Tees, though obeying to basic form, were beguilingly baroque, tiled in hypnotic oriental prints. Scarcely was a surface safe from a stout steeping in history – but then you could expect nothing less from a chronicler like Dries.
Louis Vuitton at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
Louis Vuitton paid a poignant tribute to Christopher Nemeth this FW15, as Kim Jones channelled the signature cuts of his design hero, stamping club kid prints onto Saville row silhouettes – the immortal hallmark of Nemeth.
Bonded cashmere sweaters and buff duffle coats were emblazoned in laser-etched Nemeth insignia, while sturdy leather trunk cases bore his emblems in flock. Chubby teddy-bear furs were too branded by Nemeth’s curling motif, inscribed deep into their pelt – a brooding detail that was all the more acute for its stealth. Drainpipe turn-ups skimmed slight ankles in rough wool and chambray, meeting the clunky casualness of a leather brogue-sneaker hybrid, at once nerdy and athletic in boot-polish black and tan.
Micro monogram bags crossed over bodies, their super-skinny straps harnessing pointed collar jackets in fuzzy wool and thermo-finished leather in rich tones of buttermilk and wine. Khaki quilting padded bombers and boiler suits, while grid checks and amplified polka dots paraded tailored suits and co-ords. While his references may well be interpreted as a touching tribute, they read all the more tenderly as an effort of Jones in his own right – a reference to the past, perhaps, but with both eyes fixed doggedly on the future.
Yohji Yamamoto at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
You can always trust Yamamoto’s edge to be dependably cutting – razor-sharp, in fact, as he severed silken hems and butchered buttoned-up blazers, rumpling scraggy shirts and waistcoats in his path. The emphasis on tailoring made a good effort to scrub-up smart, but it goes without saying that Yamamoto thrives in a state of dishevelment.
Unfailingly monochromatic, sable-black dominated the spectrum where tailoring was concerned, as tissue-thin silk sheaths were piled high to form blouson shirts and broad beaches – only in their eventual rough-cutting was their ply revealed. Knits were patched to weave dichotomous co-ords, charcoal grey ribbed wools stitched to bulky navy arans, unfinished, asymmetric and aptly bedraggled. Then there were those marbled velvets – plush and unctuous in their inky hues; strewn over untucked shirts and washout tees, the look was that of a drifter as opposed to debonair – and all the more alluring for it. After all, Yamamoto never could keep from wandering…
Emporio Armani at Milan Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
So mysterious, so dandy. Giorgio Armani, a fashion figure like no other, delivers one quality offering after another. While his secret to everlasting greatness remains unknown, one can’t be blamed for at least trying to decode Mr. Armani’s work, be it women’s or menswear. In fact, the Emporio Armani FW15 men’s collection was all about decoding, deception and espionage, minus the blood and fantastical action scenes.
An army of smouldering spies stepped out on the catwalk decked-out in playfully thought-through ensembles that would make even Bond proud. And there was so much goodness to choose from: perfect knits, elevated by asymmetrically-placed zippers, cropped cocoon coats, ribbed ultra-luxe sweats worn with mischievous bombers or pressed leather jackets, cosy fur snoods... With that in mind, it wasn’t the impeccable craftsmanship that left a lasting impression, but instead the sometimes under-appreciated versatility that permeates all of the beloved designer’s work. All in all, it’s mission accomplished.
Dsquared2 at Milan Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
For some people, two decades could seem like a lifetime. For Dean and Dan Caten, however, it’s just the beginning. In celebration of Dsquared2’s 20th anniversary, the Canadian fashion mavericks presented a roller-coaster of a show, a heart-warmingly concupiscent homage to their native land and Italian roots.
Complete with buffed-up boys-next-door and a red-hot Mary J. Blige, the jubilant FW15 presentation offered a lot more than just a mere revival of the “North American lumberjack” fantasy. Though distressed low-rise jeans, fur-trimmed parkas, shearling coats and oversized plaid shirts were at the core of the collection, the Caten twins had a few more Americana-infused tricks up their sleeves.
Galant, beautifully embroidered evening suits, for instance, were juxtaposed with fringed leather jackets and minuscule vests, tan cowboy belts and studded over-the-shoulder satchels. And if that’s not enough, add a neon pink zip-up coat to the mix. Here’s to the next 20.
Moschino at London Collections: Men Fall/Winter 2015
It’s FW15 at Moschino and what’s the vision for the season? A winter rave at the top of a snow-capped mountain. He may have been Creative Director for little less than a year, but when it comes to Jeremy Scott, you quickly learn to expect nothing short of fantastical.
His blizzard club culture coins sartorial snow wear, reconfiguring the jeans pockets of bleached 401s to live on as the unlikely insulation of the ski puffa. Thrown over bare chests, cropped shearling bombers and gold patchwork padded jackets bring cool down to sub-zero.
Faux fur is party to further fraudulence at the hands of bold animal skins, garish cow and zebra prints rendering fuzzy pelts brilliantly crass. Rough buffalo checks and Davey Crockett fox tails evoke an outdoorsy masculinity, while python print leather trousers, kilts and long johns revive the 80s club kid uniform – snow boots, goggles and full fur knapsacks, meanwhile, see them suited and booted for snow.
Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2015 Campaign by Steven Meisel
It’s hard to imagine a designer better suited to the big screen than Miuccia Prada, as Miu Miu’s latest campaign will surely testify. Under the dependable directorship of Steven Meisel, a tense and tortures story plays out, calling upon Mia Goth, Marine Vacth and Imogen Poots as valiant starlets of the campaign. Each frame affords a covert glimpse at the seductive and spirited central cast – freezeframes charged with tension and suggestion.
Wily and ashen, an impish Mia Goth reclines on an unmade and austere white bed, a doe-eyed gaze transfixed on the camera, baiting the viewer to assume the supporting role. Poots, meanwhile, exudes rebellion, the cascading sunlight splaying shadows across her sprawling silhouette as she slouches atop an antique dark wood table. The camera centers on Vacth as the narrative teeters on the edge of conclusion, dangling on the angst of her pained stare.
The fusty and threadbare scene which surrounds almost permeates through the soul of the collection – the clash and pull of antiquated icons, re-imagined as artefacts of a modern ideology. Dusky jacquard housecoats, pyjama suits and ruffled blouses slashed to the midriff, topped with a trim of fuzzy hazy-hued fur. Chunky platforms and girlish bowed peep-toe mules subvert the plot with sublime complexity, throwing a curveball to ladylike classicism with the assistance of supple leather handbags, thick leopard-print belts and glasses edged in glitter frames. A masterstroke by Miu Miu and Meisel– so brooding and cinematic is the narrative, the mere film stills warrant a full-length feature of their own.
PHILIPP PLEIN Pre-Fall 2015
PHILIPP PLEIN fashions Pre-Fall flawlessly – muted and hazy, not an inch excessively autumnal. This time around, Plein’s concoction proved a dreamy affair, a cloudy mix of smoked lavender, ice blue and leaden greys – and texture rendered the redolence all the more palpable.
Chubby fur jackets clip supple skin-tight leathers, taking the line of the body from slight and sleek to swollen and cocooned – the contrast impossibly elegant, if a little defiant. But the girlish palette pardoned all sins, peppering peekaboo dresses and flared miniskirts with a wilful blush of coquettish colour.
All that’s powdery and playful gave way to an elongated outline that was all the more urbane, draping the body in sweeping swathes of jersey, restrained monotones edited by deep plunging necklines met, almost, by the halting insolence of a thigh-high slit. Bags, meanwhile, carry the rock ‘n’ roll rhetoric, ladylike frame bags and satchels clad in crystal skulls and python skin, studded leather totes and backpacks bridging the gap between Lolita and lavish rebellion with impeccable flair.
Dior Pre-Fall 2015
A one-of-a-kind show requires a grand name and an even grander location. For Dior’s Pre-Fall 2015, Artistic Director Raf Simons successfully ticked both boxes, and then some.
Presented in Japan’s metropolis before 1,400 industry insiders and fashion darlings (Audrey Tautou and Hailee Steinfeld were amongst the attendees), the ‘Esprit Dior Tokyo 2015’ show wasn’t just great, it was dazzling.
Tokyo vibes were injected in the futuristic styling and trademark Dior silhouettes. Prior to the show, Simons revealed that the vibrant city has always inspired him. “Particularly in terms of the liberty people take for themselves in how they dress,” he said. “There is nowhere else like it… It’s a place that is both extreme and exhilarating.”
As for the looks, shimmering high-neck tops were worn under luxurious knits, oversized raincoats or A-line dresses. Knee-length boots accompanied zip-up fur vests. Youthful minis were juxtaposed with sophisticated figure-hugging gowns.
Launch of Saatchi Gallery / Deutsche Bank Art Prize for Schools 2015
'The Babysitter' by Rosie Rendles. 2014 shortlist.
This year's 'Saatchi Gallery / Deutsche Bank Art Prize for Schools' is now open for submissions. The globally-oriented competition aims to encourage and guide emerging artists by providing them with a platform to present their work. Primary, secondary and sixth form schools from all over the world are welcome to enter as many students as they wish, provided they are up to 18 years old. It should be noted that there are no restrictions on the medium used.
The winning school's art department will receive a £10,000 prize, and an additional £2,000 will be awarded to the winning student.
The deadline for entries is 13 January, 2015.
'Journeys' by Matt Rooney. 2014 shortlist.
'Feeling: A Frog in the Sewer' by Victoria Ji-Soo Han. 2014 shortlist.
Berlin Art Film Festival
'Nan Goldin - I Remember Your Face' (2014) Sabine Lidl, languages: English, German, subtitles: English
The first ever edition of the Berlin Art Film Festival will reveal a new side to the always-bustling metropolis. Privately funded and organised by the people behind the 'Stil in Berlin' blog, the four-day festival will show more than 30 films (“from poetry to porn”), all of which are either in English or with English subtitles. What's more, a number of filmmakers and actors will also be present for the screenings and the two panel discussions.
The highlights include 'An Interview With an Artist', a short film about an American artist (played by film professor and curator Marc Siegel), who would much rather talk about underwear than anything substantial, and 'Ich Will Mich Nicht Künstlich Aufregen / Asta Upset', which tells the story of a young and fairly secure art curator in Berlin, still trying to figure it out.
'I Remember Your Face', the Sabine Lidl-directed documentary about controversial photographer Nan Goldin, will close the festival. The film will also see its German premiere.
Berlin Art Film Festival: 4 – 7 December, 2014
'An Interview With an Artist' (2011) Telémachos Alexiou, language: English, no subtitles
'Asta Upset' (2014) Max Linz, languages: German/ English, subtitles: English/German
House of Small Wonder Berlin
Four years ago, Motoko Watanabe and Shaul Margulies opened the House of Small Wonder in Williamsburg, New York. It didn't take long for the greenhouse-like café, specialising in delicious comfort foods with a Japanese twist, to become a cherished place for breakfast and brunch.
The newly-opened Johannisstrasse branch, designed by Prop House's Jonathan Margulies, shares the same energising atmosphere and mouth-watering cuisine. Here, specialist dishes like the Okinawan Taco Rice and the Tsukune Don (a Japanese chicken meatball with sweet soy sauce) are served alongside New York favourites (poached eggs with wasabi hollandaise sauce, fluffy ginger and sesame pancakes and bacon shiso infused waffles, to name a few) and freshly-baked homemade bread, croissants and gluten-free cookies, bound to be appreciated by Berliners.
Saint Laurent Menswear Spring/Summer 2016 at Paris Fashion Week
Another nod to the essences of rock stardom, Hedi Slimane’s Saint Laurent man is one of effortless androgyny. Black skinny jeans and a fringed leather jacket, cut out jeans, flannel and printed lettermans – the SS 2016 collection seems tailor-made for the festival crowd. Considering the attention of which the stereotypical festivalgoer’s outfit is subjected to these days, it is not surprising that a fashion house as big as Saint Laurent is manifesting their own take on the rugged urbanite. Like Woodstock’s iconic fashion imprinted itself firmly in the mainstream, so it seems, does the reformulated versions of it – this time in the form of Hedi Slimane’s vision of Californian music culture.
Paul Smith Spring/Summer 2016 at Paris Fashion Week
Sir Paul Smith’s SS 16 collection seemed tailor-made for the older rock star generation, retro yet perfectly cool. With hues ranging from subtle greys to eye-popping orange and yellows, the overall impression of the Paul Smith guy was of a man who knows which classics work best and when to inject that little something extra. And this is exactly what comprised the Paul Smith collection – classics, reworked in an exciting manner. From green metallic suits to turquoise and yellow unions – Smith certainly set the brief for the nonchalant rocker.
Philipp Plein Spring/Summer 2016 at Milan Fashion Week
Welcome to the ‘hip-rock’ generation. Dubbed and exemplified by Philipp Plein’s SS 16 menswear collection, the young fashion house presents a virtual summary of what’s what in urban contemporary street fashion. Graffiti, ripped shirts, hoodies, biker jackets and tons of leather characterize this development of hip hop fashion – a movement headed by the pop culture Rock stars of today such as Rihanna, Jay-Z and Kanye West. Philipp Plein’s collection is an ode to the focus and celebration of hip-hop tradition and its newborn fashion child appropriately named ‘hip-rock’.
Emporio Armani Menswear Spring 2016 at Milan Fashion Week
With a decidedly East-meets-West point of departure, the Emporio Armani 2016 show paired European silhouettes with contemporary cuts seen in the fashionable streets of the East. More of a resonance of the Eastern demand for European high fashion, Giorgio presents classic cuts, the ‘Armanified’ version of the coveted sneaker, sleek sunglasses and the occasional beret.
Prada Menswear Spring 2016 at Milan Fashion Week
Leather shorts, black boots, tailored jackets and casually bold prints dominated the somewhat feminine take on menswear by Miuccia Prada. The collection was imprinted with the playful feeling of boyhood – oversized tops, colorful prints of rocket ships and racing cars and shirts tucked hurriedly into shorts. Boot-cut pants and zipped sweaters beneath printed shirts reflected the vintage 70s vibe that reverberated throughout the Prada showcase.
OXYDO Capsule Collection by Felix Bauer
Berlin-based artist Felix Bauer joins the premium eyewear brand in the creation of a Collectors Capsule Collection aimed at reinterpreting the brand's all-time bestsellers while introducing new models.
Incorporating Bauers’ surreal and dream-like illustrations, the eyewear takes on a fantastical and inspiring air of unconventionality. Bold black and white graphics are intrinsic to the Felix Bauer Collectors’ edition glasses, whose monochromatic essence stylizes Bauers’ illustrations of nature.
The OXYDO Capsule Collection by Felix Bauer will be available in four styles, offered as numbered limited edition pieces. The glasses come with a Bauer-designed booklet, which explores the creative process of incorporating the art with the eyewear.
ZOO Magazine No. 47, Summer Issue – Out Now!
Gracing the covers of ZOO Magazine No. 47 is a decidedly musical cast - Sam Smith, currently touring with his Grammy-award winning album, Irish singer Róisín Murphy with upcoming dates in Europe, as well as Theo Hutchcraft of enigmatic duo the Hurts and experimental Austrian artist Soap & Skin. ZOO’s summer issue is packed with an eclectic blend of musicians, artists and shoots!
The issue also features a very special collaboration between ZOO and performance artist Ulay. In a recreation of his opus of the 70s, Anagrammatic Bodies features amongst others actresses Nina Hoss and Iris Berben, and cements Ulay’s comeback to the international art scene. Nobuyoshi Araki’s August of Araki and Paul Kooiker’s latest book Nude Animal Cigar will also feature alongside the best of Berlin’s Gallery Weekend.
This and much more will feature in ZOO Magazine’s issue #47, the summer edition – out now!
Nude Animal Cigar – Paul Kooiker
Commissioned by the Fotomuseum in The Hague, Dutch artist Paul Kooiker will present his distinctive photographs at Gallery Kromus + Zink in Berlin. Kooiker’s ouvre is certainly not avoidant of the one-object focus. In fact, his ability to highlight objects, animals and the female form often evoke a lingering, curious gaze. Nude Animal Cigar is no different. Using sepia filtered hues, lit cigars, contorted torsos and animals are exhibited side by side. Unsettling perhaps - yet simultaneously captivating.
The photographs can at times seem like an invasion of privacy, a snapshot taken of those unaware. Kooiker is no stranger to this use of ambiguity, often utilizing provoking compositions in order to deconstruct and depersonalize female bodies. Perhaps part art social critique and part post-war cultural satire; Kooiker undeniably achieves a raise of the eyebrow.
The exhibition Nude Animal Cigar will run from June 13 until July 25, 2015 at Gallery Kromus + Zink in Berlin (Linienstraße 23).
Read more about Nude Animal Cigar in ZOO Nr. 47 – out now.
HUGO BOSS Fall/Winter 2015 Campaign
Industrial cuts, classical in nature yet futuristic in look is the order of the day in the recently revealed HUGO BOSS FW 15 campaign. Laced with crimsons, the pervading grays are elevated from classic to edgy, safe to bold. Artistic Director Jason Wu brings to the campaign a cemented Berlin feeling in his refined layers of anthracite felt.
Featuring Clément Chabernaud and Edie Campbell, this ode to Wu’s structural vision is reflected in the photographic work of Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin, directed by Stephen Galloway. The collection tells a story through the play between structure form and a striking palette of black, red, camel and gray.
The New G-SHOCK MRG-G1000
For more than 30 years, G-SHOCK wares have ascended upon the time-telling industry with impact due to its Japanese-made (Made in Japan) engineering. G-shock was born from a desire to create timepieces of enduring quality. The robust double-coated Titanium housings envelop the newest in G-shock developed technology - creating a near indestructable timepiece.
The latest addition to the G-SHOCK MR-G flagship series is the MRG-G1000. Shock-resistant and stocked with a hybrid GPS and Radio controlled timekeeping system, the independent solared powerded MRG combines affinity for technological utility with a classically strong aesthetic. Made from Titanium with a diamond-like coating which protects the MRG-G1000, the watch is strengthened by a face of sapphire glass, making the piece both anti-reflective and scratch resistant.
The Hanging Gardens Ubud
Imagine a temple for the rejuvenation of the soul. Does a secluded yet connected location, exotic flora and fauna and an unbeatable view sound anything like it? The Hanging Gardens of Ubud, Bali has this and much more to offer the adventurous soul. With funiculars gliding through the canopies of the surrounding nature, the terraced levels of the Gardens could reminisce of a Peter Pan-like retreat.
Bali lies between the islands Java and Lombok, and is known for its distinctive culture, from its arts and crafts to its scenery and temples. The Hanging Gardens personifies this with its panoramic valley and jungle views, organic restaurant and spa. From Ubud, nature-loving wanderers can easily find themselves hiking up volcanoes and forested highlands to rafting, horseback riding and mountain biking in the local area. The Neka Art Museum and Monkey Forest Sanctuary is also close by, offering their share of impressive cultural experiences.
MOKE Returns With Their New Single ‘LET IT BURN’
Hailing from the canals of Amsterdam, Moke returns after a one and a half year hiatus. With the announcement of their upcoming fourth studio album, ‘LET IT BURN’ signals the return of a long-awaited return to the music scene.
With their distinctive guitar and newly incorporated influences brought from sources such as the keyboardist Eddy Steeneken and the Swedish producer Daniel Gibson. ‘LET IT BURN’ is the prelude to the upcoming album to be released this fall, as well as the first celebratory ring of their 10th anniversary.
Over ten years the band has enjoyed accolades such as achieving gold for their debut album ‘Shorland’, performances in prominent Dutch festivals (such as Pinkpop and Lowlands), to theatre and European tours, including a unique collaboration with the Metropole Orchestra.
Ease the wait of their album release with ‘LET IT BURN’, now on Spotify.
HUGO BOSS Asia Art Award 2015
Rockbound Art Museum (RAM) are partnering for the second edition of HUGO BOSS ASIA ART. Conceived and curated by the Rockbound Art Museum, the biannual award honors emerging contemporary Asian artists.
The award is handed to an emerging Asian artist, whose works, along with the participants, will be exhibited at RAM from 30 October 2015 until 3 January 2016. Won for the first time in 2013 by Kwan Sheung Chi, the artworks for the 2015 event will be new commissions made purposefully for the award event. Composed of chair Larys Frogier, Director of the Rockbund Art Museum in Shanghai, advisory committee members Alexandra Munroe, Senior curator of Asian Art at the Guggenheim and curator and critic Hou Hanru among others, the HUGO BOSS awards is a gathering of Asian Art connoisseurs. Branching beyond the Chinese artists, this year’s awards have extended its selection to Southeast Asia.
Chinese contemporary art is experiencing a great deal of interest, with increasingly emerging awareness of its international presence. Intended to showcase the artists’ vision, the exhibition had no overarching theme. Following exhibitions in Europe such as the recent Focus Beijing at the Boijmans van Beuningen in Rotterdam and the first major exhibition of Chinese contemporary art at the MET, Ink Art in 2014, Asian art is positioning itself strongly in the international art sphere.
The HUGO BOSS Arts program aims at encouraging an exchange between the fashion and arts fields. To discover more about the program, go to:
Amsterdam Tribal Art Fair 2015
The weekend of Saturday the 16th to Sunday the 17th marks the fourth installment of The Amsterdam Trail, a celebration and appreciation of the historic and contemporary influence and relevance of tribal art. Contemporary artists will be exhibiting in galleries specialized in ethnographic and Asiatic art scattered along the specified trail. Among majestic African masks, New Guinean shields and Tibetan daggers, contemporary photos, videos, jewelry and sculptures inspired by ethnographic and Asiatic aesthetics will be exhibited.
Ethnographic objects have inspired the art world since the beginning of the 20th century. Artists such as Picasso, Man Ray and Modigliani are but a few artists greatly inspired by such objects. Contemporary artists are continuously looking to the masters from Africa, Asia and South America for inspiration. Some are passionate collectors of ethnographica - others are simply inspired by the intensity and deep cultural affiliations of tribal art.
For this years’ trail, the artist Folkert de Jong has created new pieces, which will be exhibited amongst objects originating from Oceania in Gallery Lemaire. Amongst others, Vincent Vulsna examines the appropriation of other cultures by the west and this problematization in his work, which will be exhibited in the Amstelkerk and Tatjana J. van Vark will demonstrate her creations on Saturday, May 16th and will give a talk about her work in the Michel Thieme gallery.
For more information about the Trail, go to
Hotel Chateau de Varenne
Built as a private residence, the Chateau de Varenne castle hotel is newly renovated in keeping with local heritage. With a rich history steeped in romanticism, the XVIIIth century building looks onto the Rhone Valley and the village Sauveterre in the heart of Provence.
With a decidedly personal touch, the village farmer makes the fruit juices, the jams are hand-made, croissants freshly delivered by the local baker, and the honey is produced by a local Roquemaure beekeeper.
Member of the prestigious Cercle Prestige du Comité du Tourisme Languedoc Rousillon, the hotel is of true quality. With three hectares of garden, the Chateu is an oasis in itself, yet a mere minutes drive away from Avignon.
Miu Miu Fall 2015 Campaign
Unveiling another elevated lookbook, Miu Miu’s recent campaigns have reigned supreme in shaping high street trends. From the angular yet plush handbags to the heeled brogues – their 2015 fall campaign just might set off another rush towards vintage revival.
Jamie Hawkesworth’s images tell the story of Miu Miu’s ongoing affair with the power of opposites. Starring model Estella Boersma, the images reflect the items’ sophisticated and the innocent play with the sensual and confident, through a femininity that treads a multiplex path. This juxtaposition is reiterated in the incorporation of vintage upholstery-inspired fabrics in combination with contemporary masculinity in the form of tailored shorts suits.
Exploring the subtle and direct oppositions of form and silhouette, Miu Miu brings to the table a closet packed with desirables.
Filippa K: Sustainability Is The Guide To Growth
Filippa K’s newly launched online platform finally communicates their long-term efforts towards sustainability in fashion.
Founded in 1993 by Filippa Knutsson and Patrik Kihlborg, their vision “Fashion where sustainability is the guide to growth” is channeled through a wardrobe consisting of stripped-down, simplistic designs, essential pieces. Garments of clean design and high quality seem intrinsic to the Scandinavian philosophy, where the flexibility of designs easily transition from season to season and year to year. Durability and a timeless quality is key in this configuration, where style not necessarily opposes sustainability.
Inspired by ecosystems and planetary boundaries, the company is devoted to the reduction of the textile industry’s environmental and social footprints. Their choice of materials and production practices reflect an acute awareness of the long and exhaustive supply chain, in an attempt to produce less of what is needed and deliver long-lasting garments. Their recently launched products “front runners” are completely recyclable in the fabric tencel (wood), including the corozo nut as buttons.
We want to be part of the solution rather than add to the problem.
This philosophy is based on two main concepts: The Curated Wardrobe and Circular Design. A curated wardrobe is simple rather than excessive, and should be created to last over time – the ecosystems and its inherent processes of reuse in turn inspire the circular design concept.
To read more about Filippa K’s Sustainable philosophy, visit their website at:
Replay At The Fuorisalone 2015: An Art Installation by Fabio Novembre
In conjunction with Milan’s 54th Design Week, the newly opened Replay Flagship store The Stage will showcase a conceptual art installation by architecht Fabio Novembre in collaboration with Replay. A reinterpretation of the Piazza Gae Aulenti-situated store, Novembre incorporates pieces such as the iconic Driade armchair as a take on the conceptualization of ‘the stage’.
Created exclusively for Replay, the reformulated concept is centered on the ever dynamic and ever changing sound stages of the cinema and theater – changes arise as if in a dramatic plot. Utilising masks, Novembre challenges identity and the space between the proscenium and the backstage, “Hidden identities create parallel worlds and unpredictable scenarios. But the underlying risk is the inevitable identity crisis: who am I? Who are you?”
The art installation will be on display from April 14 to 18.
Objets Nomades by Louis Vuitton
Louis Vuitton presented the latest project at Salone del Mobile in Milan this year. It completely revolves around travel, something we can always expect with this particular fashion house. Keeping in touch with Vuitton’s core, travel and innovation, they have asked several artists and designers to create objects that embrace the brand’s philosophy.
The collection exists out of perfectly crafted items that are not only useful, but extremely beautiful too. Christian Liaigre created a portable travel desk that can be folded into a suitcase. By combining leather, wood and aluminium, the desk becomes a strong and well-designed item. Atelier Oï on the other hand, chose to design a luxurious hammock, made out of leather strips.
The Stage by Replay
To complete the Replay lifestyle, the brand has opened a restaurant at the multi-experience store in Porta Nuova, Milan. In the heart of this district, you’ll find a dining experience that combines fashion with cinema and sound. Award winning design firm Roman and Williams Buildings and Interiors has managed to create an environment that feels like a Hollywood film set. It is luxurious, yet familiar.
Armani’s Art of Living
For the first time, Armani Casa is showing work from the most important projects, together with scale models, samples, stylistic research and sketches. To see the process behind the interior collection of the Armani house, you can visit them during this year’s Salone del Mobile in Milan.
Since 2015 is an important year for Armani, the exhibition will represent important milestones for the brand. Many projects from all over the world will all be showcased.
Mykita at Dover Street Market
Mykita has been making perfect eyewear since 2003. By combining proper craftsmanship with modern technology, they manage to create a beautiful and high quality collection every time. Now, Mykita has collaborated with Dover Street Market New York for a pop-up installation. You can visit it until the 30th of April to discover Mykita.
BORIS BIDJAN SABERI X MAD et LEN
Designer Boris Bidjan Saberi and blacksmiths MAD et LEN have worked together to create a new line of candles that are both unique and utterly sublime. In style of both brands, the candles are hand poured and made into burned steel jars, which gives them a dark and mysterious design.
Bally Celebrates Modernist Design
Chinese artist Wang Yuyang was invited by Bally to create Equip, an original art piece inspired by a demountable house that was designed by Jean Prouvé in collaboration with Pierre Jeanneret. This innovative piece is being showcased at the Shanghai Exhibition Centre, which will be open from March 27th until March 30th, 2015. The exhibition celebrates modernity and innovation, which was always expected from Jean Prouvé and Pierre Jeanneret.
Saint Laurent at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Whenever Hedi Slimane shows a collection, we are sure of one thing: people will talk. The opinions are never as divided as they are at a Saint Laurent show, which makes it one of the most anticipated shows during Paris Fashion Week.
The great thing about Slimane is that he does not really care, and that is exactly what he showed us with his creations for next fall. His Saint Laurent girl is back. Or maybe she has never been gone to begin with. She continues to be the coolest girl in town. Careless and feisty, a little like Slimane himself. She hangs around at rock shows and ends up modeling by accident. She is the girl that most girls (secretly) want to be, and that is why Slimane proves to be a commercial success. Over and over again.
Miu Miu at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
In line with the latest Prada show, Miuccia Prada presented an intriguing character during the Miu Miu show for Fall/Winter 2015. This time, she seemed as if she was a housewife from the fifties, with an interesting, secret job on the side. Ruffles, over-the-knee skirts, eye-catching jewelry and strangely shaped bags all added to her character; making her more fascination then she already is.
Naturally, Miuccia is uses bright colors and unique textures, which all fit her Miu Miu girl perfectly. She is mismatching and overdressing, but staying utterly fashionable. We are sure of one thing: there is never a dull moment with Miuccia Prada.
Maison Margiela at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Even though it does not always seem like it, fashion is an industry that accepts and forgives. This was proven during the latest Maison Margiela show by John Galliano, when we all embraced him back into our hearts.
The collection itself contained a perfect balance between Galliano’s signature style, together with how we see Margiela. It had humor, uniqueness, craftsmanship and was it filled with small references. Everything we ever expect from a Margiela collection.
COMME des GARÇONS at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Rei Kawakubo’s collections tend to get smaller, but for some reason they tend to get more powerful too. Her latest show had a certain sadness, perhaps portraying the pain of an artist.
Every piece in the collection was grand, perfectly made and telling a different story. Or maybe the story was not different, but each and every look went trough a different phase. In a way, the show was about a lack of freedom. Covered arms and almost suffocating dresses showed a broken woman; a women who couldn’t seem to escape and completely accepted her condition.
Even though we might not know the specifics, Kawakubo told us her story. We may or may not understand it, but we surely like to keep on trying.
Made By You by Converse
Converse has been gathering personal editions of the Chuck Taylor All Star all over the world. They come together in the campaign “Made by you”, which celebrates the uniqueness of every customized pair. People have been expressing themselves on their Chuck Taylors for nearly 100 years, which means it is time to bring them together and share their stories. A fresh pair of Chucks has always been like a blank canvas, and now we can explore different creations from artist to skaters and musicians.
Zadig & Voltaire at Paris Fashion Week 2015
The two Swedes behind Zadig & Voltaire, Cecilia Bönström and Paulo Melim Andersson, have managed to make the brand more French then ever. The Fall/Winter 2015 collection radiates Parisian rock and roll, which has always been the core of Zadig & Voltaire.
Embellished pinstriped suits and studded leather showed the essence of their style, but the use of fur added something slightly new. Highly luxurious, long, patchwork fur coats were key pieces in the collection.
Marni at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
For next fall, Consuelo Castiglioni took a different look at femininity. The collection seemed to be inspired by the costumes of a Siberian tribe, with the long, wide skirts and dresses. Felt-like wool was embroidered with black florals and showed a modern look on ancient tradition.
Versace at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
For Fall/Winter 2015, Donatella Versace is giving us exactly what we have expected. Fur, over the knee boots, cut-out fabric and glitter. We saw full looks in primary colors, next to eye-catching graphical prints. Short dresses were bedazzled with rhinestones and covered with the Versace name. All of this gave us the feeling that Donatella was introducing us to a Bond girl from the sixties.
Fendi at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
The F in fur is for Fendi, so naturally the Fall/Winter collection for 2015 had lots of it. The focus within the show was on animal materials, with different kinds of fur, leather and shearling.
Lately, the brand has been in a specific late sixties mood with A-line dresses, large buttons, and graphically assembled patchwork. We saw architectural creations in perfectly matched colors. The silhouettes were fresh and intriguing, embracing Lagerfeld's look on luxury.
Details were – like always – of high importance. Cut off fur on the cuffs of blouses and on gloves were nicely and elegantly placed. Graphical prints turned looks into paintings and left us in awe.
Gucci at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Alessandro Michele’s debut for Gucci womenswear is everything we hoped for. Ultra feminine silhouettes and colors, perfect pleats and refined craftsmanship show how he was the right choice for Gucci all along.
Michele’s goddess is an unexpected one. She is the girl in your class you never paid attention to, the one who sat in the corner of the room reading. By introducing her, Michele is applying a new kind of sexiness to the Gucci style. Buttoned up shirts with bow ties, long and thick fur coats and medium length skirts and dresses are combined with see through lace tops. Her outfits are slightly mismatched, which gives her a certain charm that we haven’t seen at Gucci before. At least not like this.
Floral dresses, pleated metallic skirts and silk blouses point at a commercial collection. Almost every garment is easy to include into any existing wardrobe, but still manages to bring extra allure.
Thomas Tait at London Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Thomas Tait’s latest collection was the first after he received last year’s LVMH prize. This season, he showed a new kind of peacefulness with a hint of fetishism, which somehow worked out perfectly.
Oversized shirts with exaggerated collars, cuffs and pockets allowed Tait to create a distinctive silhouette that made us question femininity and the meaning of it. On the other hand, he effortlessly applied a glamorous, seventies sentiment, which made every look become sensual in a modest way. Futuristic details enhanced his slightly peculiar vision and showed that Tait is a man with a vision.
Design Museum London x Akris
click to play "Fashion Power Travel" video
Albert Kriemler, the creative director of Akris, has designed a capsule collection for the travelling woman. Inspired by modern businesswomen, he created eight items that are practical, comfortable and at the same time very stylish. Each garment is created in such a way that everything fits into a carry-on, and can be pulled out without ironing. It’s about travel and effortlessness, which is precisely what we need.
ZURICH revolves around Nina (Wende Snijders), who roams the freeways of Germany, in search for the ability to forget her past. Along the way, she meets German truck driver Matthias (Sacha Alexander Gersak), with whom she develops a relationship. Her brokenness gives the film an atmosphere, which lures you in.
Director Sacha Polak chose multitalented Wende Snijders to play the lead and wrote the role for her, which makes ZURICH Snijders’ film debut. Polak received the prestigious Berlinale Residency for her script, which was her second film. She got to work with film experts in Berlin, and premiered ZURICH at the Berlinale.
Telfar at New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Telfar Clemens is a man with an opinion. As a designer, he dares to question beauty, taste and gender. His latest collection does exactly that, and brings an effortless selection of garments that fit perfectly into an urban setting.
He combines tight, knitted tees with boxy, wide leg jeans, which make the models look like construction workers that just walked out of the fifties. By cutting out fabric around the knees and on the chest, Telfar shows a good amount of skin. Some knitted pieces are assembled in such a way, that they even seem to show as much skin as they cover. Whether you agree with Telfar’s view on fashion or not, we all can agree on the fact that he has managed to bring something new to New York.
Levi’s Customized and Tapered
Levi’s iconic 501 has been a wardrobe staple for generations. Altering its distinct high waist, button-down front, red tag or peg-top leg comes amiss regarding nostalgia. What Jakob Davis and Levi Strauss started some 150 years ago was the uniform of old Hollywood bad boys such as James Dean and Marlon Brando and turned 90s girls like Shannon Doherty of “90210” fame into sexy vixens. This spring, a fresh and hip take on the so-called mom jean, with different washes, shreds and funneled legs, elevates the 501 to the zeitgeist. Astonishingly, the CT embraces all the classical features of the 501, while banishing some of the pants’ less flattering downsides. Gone are the days of super tight jeans for statuesque skinny boys and girls. Pulling the pant up to the waist retains the sexy slim-leg silhouette while a classic regular fit can be achieved by pulling down the waistband a bit. Getting one a size larger achieves the über-comfy boyfriend fit. Each pair can be altered further, either with tried and tested sanding paper and scissors, or appliques, makers and all things imaginable to truly make this must-have your own.
Kenzo at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
Kenzo’s geek went intergalactic this season, all aliens and anoraks with a street sensibility.
Sonorous hues were muddied, thrust off-key to droning ochres and teals. Combat jackets were cuffed with ribbed thumbholes, while fingerless gloves slipped subversively under slim-fit boiler suits. Flight bomber jackets were pulled by plummy claret tones, topped by chubby fur collars, all the shades of a splendidly sickly rainbow.
Drawstring bags were rustled from rigid vinyl leathers, plasticky and grooved like a twist-tie sack. Marled knits were basted together with blue bootlace wools, an orderly striped patchwork, profound with a plush grain – the letters ‘UFO’ emblazoned in a ‘found’ appliqué alphabet. Devoré velvets carried sunburst hues, puddling over pilot jackets that snatched above striped woollen flares, while hairy fur coats emerged in a monstrous green. Acrid orange denims were marbled by an acidic wash, while ski suits and sweaters were scrawled in batik insignia. Dense leather skins bore a steely silver grain, capes cloaking bodies like tailored reflective blankets or trickling to the floor in the form of baggy pants. Now we’re more than ready to enter the space age.
KRISVANASSCHE at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
The difficulty with skinny slim line tailoring is that is struggles to ward off the inevitable comparisons to Mod, its own merits forever eclipsed by those of its doppelganger. Kris van Assche’s, on the other hand, delivered far more than mere pastiche.
The sheen of a silver-grey suit set a simple canvas, invigorated by a peppering of a forest-green polo neck, almost futuristic in cartoonish clean-cut jersey. Fluid geometrics played out across the surface of sweaters, rounded shapes puddling in inky off-hues. Shirts, too, obeyed a strict simplicity, an unsullied ice blue dotted with a plummy silk inset, while black wool coats were accosted by a splodges of grass green satin.
Pinstripes and parkas recalled the said Mod, but were vamped up with a slick sheen, their proportions inflated; fur-lined coats were cropped and bulbous, their characteristic combat greens traded in for a cheaper and flashier pea-green model – and all the fresher for it. Cigarette pants were swapped for flares, sweeping over sturdy leather sneakers for a modern mod uniform.
Haider Ackermann at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
Anyone who doubts that plainness can be plush has not yet seen Haider Ackermann’s offering for FW15. Silhouette was strictly stripped-back, any extras pared-down, leaving the remains of a very opulent sartorial skeleton.
Peachy velvets gleamed in redolent hues – teals and burnt oranges against full-bodied Beaujolais; none was safe from its sumptuous pile, skinny pant suits and longline blazers, crew neck sweaters and opulent bombers. Supple leather pants rumpled at the ankles, cinched at the waist by a rubbery black biker jacket and topped by a chunky fisherman knit. Fringed scarves, meanwhile, tied the look to debonair decadence, draped over a leopard skin coat or satin-lined smoking jacket. All the while tattered tank tops and beanies saved the collection from timeworn pastiche – a contrast that was as resolutely modern as it was irresistibly charming.
Malaikaraiss at Berlin Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Boy meets girl this season at Malaikaraiss, and under the cult credibility of Reality Bites, the collection’s core point of reference.
In-line with inspiration, the finished product was suitably cool, ruffled layers decked in passive buff tones, texture instrumental to the sense of brooding depth. Ribbed polo necks peeped from under sleeveless silk dresses, hues turned down to a mellow saturation, save for the unctuous burst of a mustard heel. Color was rationed, meaning when it emerged, it was all the more ripe and redolent for its restriction, in deep plummy wines, ochre and cerise. Mensy shirts and safari jackets were cloaked over broad-line culottes and partnered with bleach-white cowboy boots, their lack of elaboration almost sterile, yet effortlessly avant-garde. As the premise so specified, the collection was rife with contradictions; slim cuts appeared beguilingly baggy, high-necks seemed slack, all the while asymmetric hems tailed off from the formality normally dictated by silk – not least when paired with lightly-studded leggings. Double-denim brought a touch of the teen, but somewhat more erudite in its regulation wash, brilliantly bland in sparseness and symmetry. If reality bites, there’s a delightful diversion to be found in Malaikaraiss.
Sopopular at Berlin Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Sopopular had clearly been mixing with the wrong crowd this season, bearing all the markers of the tough tribe with the bullet-hole knits and bomber jackets in a plethora of panther-black leather.
Three-quarter length pants in felted wool crumpled up at the midriff, waistbands folding over like neat paper bags. Crew neck sweaters were glossed in a sable sharkskin sheen or decked in chunky rope, each an understated elaboration, yet resounding in their effect.
Winning friends through dominion? Sopopular will show you how.
Narrow collar shirts emerged in all-over ebony leather, while cropped tracksuit bottoms assumed similarly supple skins. Macintosh raincoats and capes were sapped of all pigment, their parchment-paper translucence layered over an ink-black uniform, making way for fuzzy plush dressing-gown coats, knotted nonchalantly at the middle.
Gucci at Milan Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
Paris. One of the most wonderful cities in the world. Perhaps unintentionally, it served as an inspiration of sorts to the post-Frida Giannini Gucci team that completely re-designed the FW15 collection, revealed during Milan’s Menswear Fashion Week, following the former Creative Director’s earlier-than-expected departure.
With only specks of information out in the open, one was left wondering, pre-show: would it be a success? Was it a success? In essence, it actually was, if only for once again reigniting everyone’s interest in the luxury fashion power house. The Parisian artiste vibe, explored through delicate, gender-bending pussy-bow blouses, slouchy trousers, charming berets and whimsical scarves, helped reveal a new, previously unseen side to the Gucci brand, once led by the king of oversexed fashion, Tom Ford. The Allen Ginsberg glasses and intelligent camel knits, wintry pom pom hats and beaded rose-pattern tops were both intriguing and exciting, an indication that what’s to come can only be better, even outstanding.
What does the future hold for Gucci? One can truly only guess. But whatever it might be, the world is holding its breath.
Maison Margiela at London Collections: Couture 2015
They let him in and they let him reign; John Galliano’s flamboyance was certainly rendered more cultured under Maison Margiela, but one thing was clear – little was going to wane that wilful grandiosity.
From the first look to the last, an artisanal feast before our eyes, tortuously elaborate – almost imperial in its sculpting of the silhouette, embroidered coats rotund at the hips like the curve of a Fabergé egg.
Evidence that all this was the product of Margiela’s surrealist atelier arrived with the threadbare tatters scuffing the knees of stockings and rough, buff, tailor-chalked toiles. But just as Margiela’s presence permeated, Galliano’s was equally palpable – gaudy faux tiger-skin tailoring and gowns emblazoned by inflated PVC portraits. Fantasy was never far from the imagination, and Galliano’s was certainly indulged. Denim hotpants at couture? Only Galliano would dare.
Alexander McQueen at London Collections: Men Fall/Winter 2015
If any one London label should honor the centenary this season, it ought to be McQueen. McQueen, so unfailingly allied with uniform – whose models emerge more like warriors than mere mannequins – paid a pertinent tribute to the poppy this FW15.
Mourning suits played out in pinstripe, bearing commands of comemmoration – “honour”, “valour” and “truth” – while macabre florals were mottled by murky camos. The all-black palette eventually subsided, giving way to olive drab and navy blue felts before the eventual poppy-red, rolling out in sumptuous velvets and silk jacquards. Pants ebbed from ankle-grazer drainpipes to broad ¾ cargos, while padded combat jackets were party to pattern, cloaked over quilted co-ord tees. Pocketed tunics went slimline, protracting the never-ending line of pencil-thin cigarette pants.
Then there were those Remembrance poppies, immortalised in silk motifs to edge tailoring, and emblazoned across the chests of chunky roll-necks. Velvet collars and crepe soles platformed a picture of the teddy-boy, but rendered romantic and sober in memoriam.
Ziggy and Stephan Marley Front John Varvatos Spring/Summer 2015 Campaign
Music trails John Varvatos like a shadow. So sweetly coupled are the two, twenty-one impossibly iconic seasons have seen Varvatos join forces with the likes of Iggy Pop, Willie Nelson, KISS and Ringo Starr, to name but a few – and the affinity extends to their latest collaboration, finding fitting figureheads in none other than Ziggy and Stephen Marley.
The Spring 2015 campaign was shot in Austin, Texas, by legendary rock photographer, Danny Clinch, and features the Marley brothers as the centerpiece of a striking and stoic family portrait.
Stripped down to its essence, the black and white portrait frames the siblings with a quiet yet charismatic purity, their pride and spirit speaking through against timeless sable-black tailoring; Ziggy Marley wears a black crocodile jacquard tuxedo and Richard dress shoe, while Stephen Marley is dressed in one button peak lapel Austin version, paired with a charcoal dress shirt and cap-toes.
An idea conceived under the eye of longtime Varvatos collaborator, YARD, the family portrait will be brought to life with the launch of an exclusive short documentary film directed by Clinch, in celebration of their father’s 70th birthday which falls on February 6th.
The film will debut on www.johnvarvatos.com on February 5th 2015.
Un Mondo Nuovo by Ennio Capasa
Swapping the stoic classicism of Milan for the pulsing pace of Tokyo in the early eighties must have confronted quite a culture shock to a young Ennio Capasa. After completing his studies in Southern Italy, Capasa, just twenty years old, uprooted to Tokyo to work under the ultimate avant-gardist, Yohji Yamamoto, for three years, before returning to Italy to establish his own inimitable label, CoSTUME NATIONAL.
The leap was a lucrative one, an experience every bit as surreal as the aesthetic he was augmenting. Fulfilling a promise he had made to Fumi Yamamoto, Yohji’s mother, Capasa has released a book, Japan: A New World (Un Mondo Nuovo), immortalising his time spent in Japan – a chapter of his life which cast the die for his instinctively polyhedral work.
As an exceptional extension to the book, from 11th December 2014, Un Mondo Nuovo will illustrate the tale with the launch of its dedicated internet platform and parallel Instagram and Tumblr channels. The global interactive diary serves as a sensory mood board, exposing an fresh facet of Capasa’s intellect and experience, brought to life by videos, sound and news unearthed from the unpublished archive of a master who has ceaselessly innovated for over 25 years.
Valentino New York Flagship Celebration
On 10 December, 2014, the House of Valentino will celebrate the recent opening of its new Fifth Avenue flagship store. The evening will see the presentation of an exclusive Haute Couture capsule collection, created especially for the event by Valentino’s Creative Directors Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli.
The magnificent 20,000 square foot store, conceptualised by the brand’s Creative Directors in collaboration with ‘David Chipperfield Architects’, houses women’s ready-to-wear and accessories as well as the complete men’s collection. A special area is dedicated to Denim Made to Measure.
Opened in August 2014, the Fifth Avenue location is the second Valentino boutique in the Unites States to carry the men’s offering.
Versace Spring/Summer 2015 Campaign
Madonna is the new face of Versace. Photographed in New York by Mert Alas & Marcus Piggott, the Queen of Pop smoulders in a series of black and white shots for the brand's Spring/Summer 2015 campaign. The timeless images are a testament to Madonna's everlasting power and undeniable cultural presence, which has only grown stronger over the years.
“Madonna is one of the true icons of Versace. I am thrilled to have my friend and the most powerful and directional artist as the face of Versace for Spring 2015,” said Donatella Versace.
British Fashion Awards 2014
Hosted by English comedian Jack Whitehall, the annual British Fashion Awards took place on 1 December, 2014, at the London Coliseum. The ceremony was attended by some of the fashion and entertainment industries' biggest names such as Anna Wintour, Victoria and David Beckham, Lana Del Rey, Kate Moss, Rihanna, Karlie Kloss, Mario Testino, Kendall Jenner and Tom Ford.
Voted for by more than 400 fashion world professionals, the winners included Cara Delevingne (Model of the Year), Anna Wintour (Outstanding Achievement), Erdem (Womenswear), J.W. Anderson (Menswear), Victoria Beckham (Brand), Emma Watson (British Style) and Nicolas Ghesquière (International Designer).
Prada Opens New Menswear Store in Frankfurt
Prada has opened a new store in Frankfurt, dedicated to the brand's men's collections. Spread over two floors, the 1000 square metre space, located on the central Goetheplatz, was designed by architect and frequent collaborator Roberto Baciocchi and houses menswear, accessories, footwear and leather goods; it also accommodates 'Made-to-Order' and 'Made-to-Measure' services.
The Frankfurt location is defined by Saint Laurent marble floorboards, blood orange walls and a marble staircase. Masculine furniture and strong design accents elevate the refined interior.